How I changed my 05's Front Wheel Bearing

[Elbereth42]

Another success!

Thanks to this thread, and the suggestions for pushing back the axle just a bit, and using an offset wrench for when a socket won't fit, and a wobbler for when it will, I was able to do this job in no time, with no frustration. One big thing in my favor was that since 95% of the vehicle's use was in Montana, no salt meant that everything came apart really easily - was able to pull the hub off by hand once the bolts were loosened. The damage to the bearings was astounding! Now I'm just waiting for my new hub to arrive from detroitaxle, and I'll be able to see if it will clear my ABS, AdvanceTrak, and 4x4 High flashing lights, like it has for so many others.

I can't say enough good things about this forum - this is the first time I've popped in to tell my story, but I've been able to solve dozens of problems thanks to the info I've gotten here.

 

[edwx]

Thanks!!

I just did my fronts on my X. It's a Gen IV and I posted about it over there. It's actually a 10/17/05 build, and because this forum/thread made it possible for me to do it, I just thought I'd like to post a few results and a big THANK YOU over here. Because of all the info on this thread I had the procedure down pat before I even started. Only had to buy a 32mm deep impact socket from HF for $4.99, and the 1/2" wobble from Sears for $6.99. Didn't want to use Chinese bearings so I did a ton of research and decided to go with SKF BR930456, made in USA, with Timken bearings. Got them off Ebay for $147 each. Drove the truck to my neighbors to use his air wrench on the axle nuts. I tried a breaker bar and my hydraulic jack, but no go. Tapping the threaded shaft in enough to gain access to the bolts was the key. Was able to get a full bite on them with a 1/2" ratchet, 3/8" adapter, 3/8" wobble, and 15mm socket. They were tough but all 6 came out. In my case a hub puller was usless. The hub was rusted in almost solid, here in the salt, rust capital of the world, Syracuse, NY. Really had to whack it with a hammer to break it free. Mine had the gray rtv crap on it, but compared to how rusted it was, the rtv wasn't a problem at all. Things went together well, and vehicles is much quieter now. Can't thank the posters enough for saving me at least $600. If I went to the parts counter at my local Ford dealer they would try and sell me Hub 29 at $360 each......I don't think so. My suggestion to anyone doing this on their Gen III is to purchase either the SKF BR930456, or the Motorcraft Hub 67 (4L2Z1104AA). Both come with the bolt kit and abs sensor.

Picture 1: Thought it was too blurry, but if you look close enough you can see TIMKEN stamped on the top of the bearing.
Picture 2: Axle tapped back to gain access to bolts.
Picture 3: Ratchet set-up for bolts.
Picture 4: Opening cleaned up and ready for new hub.

 

[rangermidtn]

I changed mine a couple weeks ago, no problems. Used a little torch to heat up the bolts, they broke loose quickly after that.

 

[Trueoo7]

Does anybody know a part number for just the hub bolts in case the hub I ordered doesn't have them?

 

[Jasone352]

Thanks for the great write up and all of the help. I changed my front bearing assemblies a couple of weeks ago and the job went smooth. I couldn't of done it without all of your expertise. Thanks again

 

[xlt03]

Ford bolts part number for the hub is 1L2Z-1107-AA . There are 3 bolts in the package. The label says one bolt kit.

 

[yarbles]

I just did this job on an '02. I came here looking for ideas after I got stuck on the three bolts from hell. The 15mm offset was a life saver. The top bolt still took me half an hour just because rust made it extremely hard turning and I could only go a 12th of a turn at a time because of the narrow access. The slide hammer also made taking out the hub a breeze. I tried a puller and it just wasn't budging.

I went cheap and got the Driveworks hub from Advance Auto. It was about $115 after online discounts. I can't say much about the quality of the bearing, but the kit is excellent in terms of installation. It slid right in, came with new bolts for the hub and caliper bracket, and the ABS line had the right collars in the right places, plus 2 new tied downs. Even before the bearing when I was planing on selling the car soon, but unless the new bearing is a real POS I expect it to outlast the rest of the car.

Also, I had some major steering shutter after this job was done: This thread explained why: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=209369

 

[ThnxSVT]

I'm in the middle of doing this job and could really use some help. I have the axle nut off, axle shaft broken three and the three spindle to hub nuts out. For the life of me I can't get the hub broken free from the spindle. I'm not sure if it's due to corrosion or that RTV-type stuff that Ford put on there.

I currently have a puller mounted to the hub along with a slide hammer. I've banged as hard as I can using the slide hammer but have not been able to break either side free, even the slightest little bit. It's like I have the elusive 4 bolt hubs or something.

Does anyone have any other ideas as to how I could break this loose? I have an air hammer and am tempted to give that a try, but can't see a good place for me to put the hammer.

I'd really like to go with less drastic measures if possible, and am wondering if I'm just doing something wrong since I see very little mention on this thread of people having trouble with this step.

 

[Fudman]

Ford bolts part number for the hub is 1L2Z-1107-AA . There are 3 bolts in the package. The label says one bolt kit.

If anyone needs replacement hub bolts, I have several sets available. I bought multiple sets and they came three to a bag!

 

[Fudman]

I'm in the middle of doing this job and could really use some help. I have the axle nut off, axle shaft broken three and the three spindle to hub nuts out. For the life of me I can't get the hub broken free from the spindle. I'm not sure if it's due to corrosion or that RTV-type stuff that Ford put on there.

I currently have a puller mounted to the hub along with a slide hammer. I've banged as hard as I can using the slide hammer but have not been able to break either side free, even the slightest little bit. It's like I have the elusive 4 bolt hubs or something.

Does anyone have any other ideas as to how I could break this loose? I have an air hammer and am tempted to give that a try, but can't see a good place for me to put the hammer.

I'd really like to go with less drastic measures if possible, and am wondering if I'm just doing something wrong since I see very little mention on this thread of people having trouble with this step.

See my post last year. I had the same issue. The slide hammer is the solution although it will take multiple hits. One hub took close to one hundred hits (I actually lost count). And I am talking full-on, as hard as I could slide it, hits. An impact hammer may help to loosen it as my hub was rusted in place. Good luck!

 

[rocco123]

Make sure all the bolts are out then its a simple matter of beating the heck out of it with a puller attached to keep the pressure on it. If ya live in the rust belt this is normal ops.

 

[xringer]

Same here.... several hundred possibly thousands of hits with a slide hammer per side. I thought I would have to buy Advance Auto a new one Ruined the lug nuts. It has been one of the toughest things I have done to my 2003 XLT yet. Good luck

 

[rocco123]

Use a three jaw puller and keep tension on it either with an impact or wrench. Hit the bolt of the puller a lot then retension again. Slide hammer does not give much throw to apply a good hard impact.

 

[angler3]

Mine was a beeootcch too, but i was able to angle a long ( and a short one)chisel behind the hub. I hit it with a big hammer on three different spots. On a angle off the spindle, not through it. Its a pain and it did take a couple of hard blows, ( more than i liked too admit )but it worked. It has to come out. Its all the corrosion and built up junk. Its like removing a stuck rotor. You hit it repeatedly on different spots and it will start to " wiggle out " . Hitting it with some pb blaster can be a big help. This forum is great and i'm sure you'll get more ideas from the crew on this thread. I look here for everything on my explorer. i do also remember a prior guy stated he left the screws in and banged it out by the screws once he loosened them. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE NEW ONES if you try this route.

 

[angler3]

btw, the puller is alot easier! I just didnt have access to one at the time. But i did use it the SECOND time around. Used a cheap brand the first time. Do yourself a favor and put a quality part in.

 

[ThnxSVT]

I got the hubs off. Thank you very much to everyone for the tips. I just wasn't expecting the hubs to be that hard to get off since I hadn't seen much discussion on that part of the process.

 

[edwx]

Yeah, I literally let mine soak in PB Blaster for almost 2 weeks beforehand. Respraying them every day, and they were still a *****. Can't believe I didn't break anything removing them.

 

[OXNAR]

One thing I do not see mentioned here is the use of Anti-Sieze on any bolts or mating surfaces. When you do this job again, and you will no doubt, everything comes apart much easier. Especialy those three bolts. Anti-Sieze anything and everything that comes apart.

 

[rocco123]

Antiseize is just standard maintenance practice. U spent all that effort getting it apart ya dont want to doit again.

 

[edwx]

I hope I have to do mine again.......that would mean I got another 100K out of my X.