BTF Fabrication Explorer Lift Coil Spacer discussions

[03 Limited 4.6]

I'm Interested In Getting Some Spacers Soon I Have An 2004 XLT, There Are A Few Questions I Have.

1. I Want To Run 265s On My Stock Rims Will They Rub.?
2. How Much Lift Will 2"(F) And 1.75"(R) Give Me.?
3. Will I Need To Trim or Cut or Remount Anything.?
4. Are There Any Additional Things I Will Need To Purchase.? (I Plan To Use My Ex. For Lights Off Road And Mud)
5. How Long Does It Take From The Time I Order Them Till They Will Be Delivered.?

Aluminum if you are looking at some spacers Brandon is making me some that i will end up not using and they are paid for they are 1.5 front & 1.0 rear he said should net a 2 inch lift and should not require the use of the btf control arms which is the reason i got the smaller lift after talking with brandon. Just looking to get what i paid $250 Thanks,Joe

 

[Mr Dubya]

Hi Folks,

I've been rummaging through the forums extensively for a few years, and finally think it's time to get involved. My 03 Limited was in an accident last May and I tinkered away with fixing it over the summer. Now that all the body work is back to where it should be and mechanically sound, I'm taking the opportunity to lift it first with 2.25/1.75 BTF coil spacers and soon enough with the 883 ranger lift. Right now I'm tackling the spacers and taking my time. I'm at the fronts, but running in to an issue that I'm unsure how to address.

I would like to invest in some BTF UCAs later on, but from what I see they aren't absolutely crucial if I only plan on doing light driving. I don't plan on taking it off the pavement any time soon or running it hard.

That being said, I know the top of the knuckle hits the coils when max droop is hit, and the limiting straps solve that issue (a later investment). But my knuckle doesn't separate at all from the coil when I put on the wheel and apply load. I'll attach two pictures of each side, loaded and unloaded.

I really want to get these spacers in and done with so I can focus on school and work when the cold weather hits.

I think I'm having this problem for a few theories:

1) My strut (aftermarket) is too stiff, and is not compressing enough when I apply load. Thus, the control arms don't raise and lift the knuckle away from the coil. (I had to go so far as use a come-along to compress it enough to get the upper ball-joint in to the knuckle)

2) My strut has too many turns in the coil (compare mine to your stock), and the knuckle is hitting my coil in a place where it wouldn't on a stock coil. (so the load isn't transferred through the coil, but rather gets diverted in to the knuckle)

3) I truly do need the BTF UCAs (although I've seen it done without?)

4) I've erred in my installation

Has anyone else run in to this problem? Or might have a theory of their own as to why this is happening? I've even removed the UCA shims and pulled them forward to give more reach, to no avail. My next step in the upcoming week is to put a friend's stock strut in and compare one side to the other.

Any thoughts from you guys are totally appreciated. I'm dying to get this thing back on the road and become active on the forums.


-Dubya

As a follow up to my original dilemma:

I found that the struts were in fact too stiff, which I believe to be related to the active coils involved:

Note the Ford OEM and Monroe Quick-Strut assemblies to have 7 active, and the Leacree to have 9. (Also, they are all the same length but the camera angle makes the Leacrees look much longer)

The Leacrees definitely were the issue, as I no longer have a clearance issue with the Monroe Quick-Struts - but I will be installing BTF UCAs when they come in as a supplement.

Hope that bringing it full circle helps future readers.


-Dubya

 

[Fuller]

So I ordered the BTF spacers for my wifes ex 32 days ago, sent the paypal as requested. Done deal right? Ehhhh. Called a few times, got nothing. Finally got through and he said he was out of the shop and would call me back. Never did. Any reason I should be worried other then the fact I am out $250 and have new ball joints and tires sitting in my garage for the last 4 weeks? I had similar issues like this with a company that was supposed to be reliable back in my Dodge Dakota days which makes me uneasy.

 

[Ronin8002]

So I ordered the BTF spacers for my wifes ex 32 days ago, sent the paypal as requested. Done deal right? Ehhhh. Called a few times, got nothing. Finally got through and he said he was out of the shop and would call me back. Never did. Any reason I should be worried other then the fact I am out $250 and have new ball joints and tires sitting in my garage for the last 4 weeks? I had similar issues like this with a company that was supposed to be reliable back in my Dodge Dakota days which makes me uneasy.

I think his turnaround time may have slowed down lately, either due to being backed up with other work or being shorthanded at his shop, or both. My upper control arms took a bit but he came through.

If you don't get a response from him you always have the recourse to get your funds back via paypal, but before you go that route I would at least leave a message or send a text that you are looking for a refund and give him a chance to make it right first.

 

[Kazer]

As a follow up to my original dilemma:

I found that the struts were in fact too stiff, which I believe to be related to the active coils involved:

Note the Ford OEM and Monroe Quick-Strut assemblies to have 7 active, and the Leacree to have 9. (Also, they are all the same length but the camera angle makes the Leacrees look much longer)

The Leacrees definitely were the issue, as I no longer have a clearance issue with the Monroe Quick-Struts - but I will be installing BTF UCAs when they come in as a supplement.

Hope that bringing it full circle helps future readers.


-Dubya

Do you still have the Leacree strut assemblies?

 

[Mr Dubya]

Do you still have the Leacree strut assemblies?

I do. Two fronts and then two rears that I never installed. Got 'em for a bargain, heard they were questionable, but wanted to see with my own eyes how they held up.

 

[Dirt Destroyer]

Does anybody have a rough estimate on how much they paid for their upper control arms from BTF. Just so I have a idea on how much the spacers and UCAs will cost all together. Thanks

 

[Mr Dubya]

Edit: Gave the wrong price. Disregard. I'll correct later.

 

[jcsaathoff]

I am in need of front upper control arms, my ball joints are stock. I kinda want to put the lift spacers in.. anyone know if BTF will do a package deal if ya order both are the same time??

 

[Dre]

you've gotta talk to Brandon about that - I would go and replace those upper arms anyway - just to be on a safe side - you don't want that wheel to fold on you when you're on the highway doing 80...

 

[Truck39Trash]

Alright noob moment. When I purchase the spacers Purchasing the UCAs from BTF allows me to bypass replacing the OEM upper ball joints because the UCAs has a uniball construction. Correct?

 

[Ronin8002]

Alright noob moment. When I purchase the spacers Purchasing the UCAs from BTF allows me to bypass replacing the OEM upper ball joints because the UCAs has a uniball construction. Correct?

Yes, the BTF upper control arms have uniball joints, so no more OEM ball joints needed.

 

[Truck39Trash]

Thank You. It was getting late and as I was running numbers and parts through my head I think some information leaked out.

 

[harleyman_1014]

the pic of the explorer on the bottom of the how to,is that with just the spacers or a body lift to?

 

[Ronin8002]

just spacers

 

[dmk1992]

coil spacers

hi my name is Dalton and I work for Goodyear and I have a 2003 Ford Explorer XLT 4 by 4 and I would like to buy some spacers for it who do I go through and could you email me cuz I would like to buy a set aSap (2.75 Front And 1.75 Rear).

Thanks
Email- Huntin_The_World@Yahoo.com

 

[broncojunkie]

In the original write-up, the tools listed shows a "pitman arm puller" required for this job. I read all through the thread, this thread as well and did a search on both threads just to make sure. I don't see any references to how a pitman arm puller is used.

Is it really necessary?

 

[KPPCExplorer]

You would use the pitman arm puller to help remove the upper control arm from the spindle. A pitman arm puller is not necesary but would be helpful if your ball joint is frozen in.

 

[Ronin8002]

I found what works better is to remove the nut from the upper ball joint, use your jack under the lower control arm to compress the suspension until the upper control arm is approximately level, then use a hammer to tap upward on the ball joint stem and it will pop out from the knuckle.

 

[BlkSquad]

These spacers aren't shown on the BTF website. Are they no longer being made? Also, a price on the extended UCA? I hope I'm not too late to get some lift on my new(to me) 03.