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Ford Explorer HID Conversion Kits (problem?)

Had issue on my Goldwing then changed the main power connection to match my oil pressure switch. No lights until Oil Pressure started to rise then HIDs fired.
 



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I also keep my headlight switch in auto. To get rid of the problem with my aftermarket HID kit, I use the remote start on the key fob to start the engine. I get into the car, foot on the brake and push the start button and the headlights always come on perfectly.

As cnsheets said, the voltage fluctuation causes this problem.

Hope this helps.
-Eric

If you plan to use "auto" mode, then you must use a wire harness with a timed delay relay. This will prevent flickering and the problem of the bulb not igniting. The delay relay waits to fire the HID's 5-10 seconds until the vehicle has started. When its sets to Auto without the delay relay, the vehicle is trying to fire the HID's at the same time the engine is cranking over.....the voltage fluctuation is what causes the misfire and/or flickering.....

Use a harness and make sure it has a timed delay relay......not just a regular relay....must be timed......
 






This one: http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=3956

The 3Five ballasts, 4300k (the most light output, I think the blue look is cheap), 9005 wire harness, and the heavy duty relay wire harness.

The improvement over stock is just amazing. The cutoff in the stock projectors looks perfect and doesn't throw light everywhere like non projector housings. Last night on the highway, I had to flash someone to move from the passing lane and the high beams lit up their entire interior. The person pretty much swerved over right away and I think it startled them a little.

Hey Tux,

How have the HID's been performing? I called The RetroFit Source and the Sales guy recommended the Canbus design vs the Wiring Harness (same price). Did you replace the Fogs as well? If so, did you use a wiring harness on them too? Do you use Auto-On with your headlight control? Any flickering or power on failures ever?
 






Hey Tux,

How have the HID's been performing? I called The RetroFit Source and the Sales guy recommended the Canbus design vs the Wiring Harness (same price). Did you replace the Fogs as well? If so, did you use a wiring harness on them too? Do you use Auto-On with your headlight control? Any flickering or power on failures ever?

They've been performing perfectly. I went with the wiring harness and I've never had any "bulb-out" errors. The fogs are stock and I'm not really looking to change them to HID. I used auto-on for the headlights and they fire up every time right when I turn the key... no flickering or power failures. They just light up and keep getting brighter for about 30 seconds. The light cut-off in the stock housings look as good as any car with OEM HIDs and the high beams are just insane. When someone is in the passing lane going slow on the highway, after a while I'll flick the high beams just once for a second and it seems to almost startle them because the entire interior of their car lights up. They move over pretty quickly after that. All in all, you should have zero issue with ordering from the retrofit source.
 


















I purchased these http://www.ebay.com/itm/PHILIPS-CanBus-Ballast-HID-Xenon-Kit-880-881-893-HB1-HB2-HB3-HB4-HB5-H1-H3-H7-H8/171021794004?ssPageName=WDVW&rd=1&ih=007&category=36476&cmd=ViewItem

I purchased the headlight kit and the fog light kit. I just finished installing the headlight kit. The only issue i had was it seems the plug that comes with the 9005 kit has the polarity reveresed compared to the Ford plug. I just had to turn the plug around around and all was good. I'll post here if i see any issues.
 






They've been performing perfectly. I went with the wiring harness and I've never had any "bulb-out" errors. The fogs are stock and I'm not really looking to change them to HID. I used auto-on for the headlights and they fire up every time right when I turn the key... no flickering or power failures. They just light up and keep getting brighter for about 30 seconds. The light cut-off in the stock housings look as good as any car with OEM HIDs and the high beams are just insane. When someone is in the passing lane going slow on the highway, after a while I'll flick the high beams just once for a second and it seems to almost startle them because the entire interior of their car lights up. They move over pretty quickly after that. All in all, you should have zero issue with ordering from the retrofit source.

Tux, did you install the bulbs with the ignitor on the top or the bottom? Do you have any install pics? I got my 9005 kit today and installed the ignitor on the bottom. Maybe it doesn't really matter.

Anyway, I couldn't not figure out the wiring. It appears I have one plug left over. I don't get it. I will call TheRetroFirSource tomorrow for connection assistance.
 






Tux, did you install the bulbs with the ignitor on the top or the bottom? Do you have any install pics? I got my 9005 kit today and installed the ignitor on the bottom. Maybe it doesn't really matter.

Anyway, I couldn't not figure out the wiring. It appears I have one plug left over. I don't get it. I will call TheRetroFirSource tomorrow for connection assistance.

The ignitor? The ballast (little blue aluminum boxes)? I'll try to get some pics but yes, there was one wire that doesn't connect to anything. I don't know why it's designed that way since the wire isn't necessary, but everything works just fine.
 






I have the same problem a year ago about two headlights not lighting at the same time or I need to turn off then on again till the 2 headlights will light up. Too many frustrations I install a wiring harness and change the fuse 5 amps higher on the default headlight fuses (left and right). Bought also the 10 sec. delay relay still no luck. Up until DDM tuning told me to change both my ballast and have each headlight a separate harness
(1 LT and 1 RT). Voila it solved the problem and now I'm always in auto lights mode and since then (1 year now) 2 headlights always turns ON without any problem.
 






I got a set from TRS, who I have purchased flawlessly performing retro-setups from in the past. This kit is not so...

The bulbs don't fit snug in the housing and are literally loose and flopping around in the projector's bulb socket, and one side has a weird halo thingy which is really distracting. I am no dummy and have retro'd several headlights with different projectors.


Otherwise, auto mode works perfectly and no flickering/hunting. Relay kit and standard HID setup with 4300k bulbs.
 






The bulbs don't fit snug in the housing and are literally loose and flopping around in the projector's bulb socket, and one side has a weird halo thingy which is really distracting. I am no dummy and have retro'd several headlights with different projectors.

That's weird. Are you sure they sent the correct bulbs? Mine installed very snug and "clicked" right in.
 






That's weird. Are you sure they sent the correct bulbs? Mine installed very snug and "clicked" right in.

Yes, they are the correct 9005 bulbs. They go in, but you can wiggle them around when they are rotated into position. The bases seem to be too thin.

I am waiting to hear back from TRS about it.
 






TuxBlack, could you post some pics of your setup? I'm interested in getting the same kit you purchased - curious to see how it looks under the hood. Everything is plug and play? No cuts or modifications needed to make anything fit? Thanks in advance.
 






The only thing I had to cut were the rubber dust boots on the headlights. I also covered the light sensor so I can have the lights on all the time. I just leave the switch on auto and I get headlights and fogs all the time.

The only issue is with the dash lights auto dimming. I can disable auto dim for Sync but not for the dash :(. Maybe I'm not looking in the right spot?
 












TuxBlack - did you have to cut this as well?

Any HID install is going to require you cut them to feed the wires through for the ballast. They are a 5$ part (for the pair) so if you're concerned about it, then buy a new set prior to altering the old ones.
 






Yes, they are the correct 9005 bulbs. They go in, but you can wiggle them around when they are rotated into position. The bases seem to be too thin.

I am waiting to hear back from TRS about it.

Did TRS respond back to you? I have the same issue. One bulb is snug and the other is loose.
 






Did TRS respond back to you? I have the same issue. One bulb is snug and the other is loose.

Yeah, they told me their 2013 fit fine and our projectors are to blame because there is a .5% chance their bulbs are defective. They suggested to make a paper spacer... Awesome.
 



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Here are a couple of pictures of my install. Not the neatest install in the world but I was anxious to get the lights in. I will probably go back one day and make it a little neater.

Pass Side
8703927128_affa42f4fd_z.jpg


Driver Side
8702807645_8107bd06e5_z.jpg


Dust Boot
8702807597_19e942841a_z.jpg


Light Sensor - There are 3 sensors - 1 light and 2 sun sensors. Just cover the light sensor up with electrical tape and put everything back together. Location of light sensor is middle of dash by windshield.

8703939174_529974e490_z.jpg
 






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