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1994 Ford Explorer randomly will not start

shorty423

Active Member
Joined
March 1, 2013
Messages
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City, State
Greeneville, TN
Year, Model & Trim Level
1993 Explorer Eddie Bauer
Hi, My mother in law has a 94 explorer that she has been having trouble with. It will start up and run flawlessly 90% of the time, But in the last few months it randomly will not start. She had the fuel pump replaced a while back and that seemed to fix it until recently and now it's back to how it was. Also when It does start, sometimes it will just kinda stumble for a minute then die, If you give it gas it will run a little longer but it's just a hard issue to diagnose. Any help is greatly appreciated!
 



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Is there a check engine light? If so, you can extract the codes yourself and post them here. You can also "rent" a fuel pressure tester from a local auto parts store (and get a full refund when you return it -making it free). Do the pressure test at the test port that looks like a tire valve on the fuel rail. You should have about 30 psi or more of fuel pressure. This may take you back to a fuel pump, but it could be a regulator problem as well. The test port is right next to the regulator. Search and read the forums here. You can test about everything for free before buying parts.
 






Sounds very familiar!

:usa::exp: When mine did this it was just a relay going bad. They will do this (intermittently fail), stranded me more than once. Try the cheap easy fix first, all labeled in power dist. box under hood. Worst case; spare relay, all the same ratings. Good luck!
 






Yes, Actually the check engine light is on but some mechanic told her that he knew what it was and that it wouldn't effect the starting but regardless I think I need to know. How do you pull the codes? I will definitely try testing the fuel pressure, Thanks for the input!
 






Nevermind on pulling the codes, I couldn't find anything before but I think I have now, I'll post them asap and keep everyone updated.
 






Good afternoon.man i am still trying to figure out this problem a non starting 1998 explorer.would not start friday but starts today.not sure if we are driving too work monday.can someone please help with this fix?
 






Okay, So I have pulled the codes. Here is the list.
335, (O) EGR feedback signal is/was out of range
115
621, (O) Solenoid/circuit failure - shift solenoid 1
721
435
533, (M) Data Communications Link to instrument cluster failure
754
355
515
721
433
633, (O) 4x4L switch should be in 4x2 or 4x4 high for the test
753
754
355
Only 4 of those can be found on a list of what these codes mean(They have a description next to them) If anyone can elaborate on what these codes mean that would be great. I think the one about the egr valve could be what is keeping it from starting? Thoughts?
 






Good afternoon.man i am still trying to figure out this problem a non starting 1998 explorer.would not start friday but starts today.not sure if we are driving too work monday.can someone please help with this fix?
 






Leighton, you may want to repost over in the 98 Explorer area. Yours is totally different than these 1st generation Explorers -

Shorty, those are some weird readings. Remember when you first initiate the test you may see some very fast indications (fast codes). Where some people use the CEL light, I use an analog volt meter whenever I do the test, and these show up as just a bump of the needle on the meter. These fast codes are designed to be read by Ford's STAR tester, and possibly other testers and should be disregarded. When the regular "on demand" codes are finally shown, they show as a full 12 volt needle sweep on my meter. Remember also that after the On Demand codes are shown, there is a single 12v sweep of the needle on the volt meter (or a single flash of the check engine light). This is the "separator code". Next up is the memory (or continuous) codes, if there are any. In both the On Demand, and Memory areas, the code sequences are shown twice. In other words, if you had a code 144 and 157, it will show that pair once, then repeat the two numbers.

Make sure you are not counting the fast codes or the separator code in your reading of the computer. That could be skewing your code numbers.

Something I found on Google:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.html
 






Alright, Well one of those codes were shown twice. Also I think some of them that were like 621 721 I think I have miscounted at some point because I did the test twice to make sure. Here is the one that it showed twice 335 335. I think I did it right. Here is how it went, I Hooked up the wire turn the key to accessory and wait. The check engine light kinda flashes really dim once and then it starts spitting out the codes.
 






Okay! So, Here's what's up. I went back to screw with this explorer again and well to keep this plain and simple and prevent me from ranting and making this a whole page long, I did the test again, Thought maybe alot of those codes were from previous problems that just had not been erased. So I tried to erase them, IT DIDN'T WORK! With the key turned on accessory I pulled the wire off Like I thought you were supposed to do to erase the codes, I did this twice. The only thing it did was make the explorer not freaking start. I finally got it started again. But here is what I have learned, Every time it won't start you cannot hear the fuel pump when you turn the key, However if you do hear the fuel pump it will start. Although sometimes it starts and then sputters and dies. I think maybe a ground wire is loose somewhere? Someone please chime in on this one I really need the help.
 






Okay, you might want to go a different direction. From your comments, it's my opinion that the EGR code is a red herring, and is leading you down the wrong path. I would visit fuel pressure as suggested above. "New" fuel pumps have been known to be bad.

Read all the way through the following link:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142801

MrShorty's comments in the thread are very good also. You can use the fuel test pin on the EEC-IV test port (there's a picture of it in the "Rangerstation" link above). With the key on, supply a ground to the test pin, and the pump should come on. If it doesn't there's a problem in the pump circuit. It may be as simple as a relay. You can swap it with the air conditioner relay (same part number) as a quick check.

That said, the EGR may be generating a fault still, but I don't think it's the cause of the no-start issue. If the EGR valve remains closed, it won't affect the engine during start and idle. If it's stuck open, it should start, but run badly. Chances are that if something in the EGR system has failed, the valve just won't open, and again, that shouldn't affect how the engine starts.
 






I bought my '99 for way cheap because of a random No Start. $16 for a new Fuel Pump relay and it has been great for many years now.
 






Well, That's actually what I was thinking. The EGR valve shouldn't stop it from starting, I have a had problems with EGR valves in the past and the vehicle always started. I looked at the rangerstation link as suggested, but I'm still confused as to what I can do to test the pump. I personally think that a wire is not quite tight somewhere, possibly a relay, But I think maybe electrical connections on the fuel pump?
 






If teh car wont start... have someone try to start it and punch teh bottom of teh gas tank.. Usually that will convince a dying pump to spin up
 






Well, That's actually what I was thinking. The EGR valve shouldn't stop it from starting, I have a had problems with EGR valves in the past and the vehicle always started. I looked at the rangerstation link as suggested, but I'm still confused as to what I can do to test the pump. I personally think that a wire is not quite tight somewhere, possibly a relay, But I think maybe electrical connections on the fuel pump?

You hook up the pressure gauge as shown. Run the engine, or even drive around (with the hood mostly closed and the gauge where you can see it as you drive - don't go too fast!). Watch the gauge. If the pressure drops below 25 to 28 psi, you have a fuel pressure problem. Start it several times. If it won't start, and your pressure is still good, then you can look elsewhere for the problem. It's a process of elimination.

Grounding the pin on the EEC test port will force the pump to turn on. It's just a different step in the troubleshooting. If you try it several times, and it turns on (and it's putting out good pressure) you can look elsewhere for the no-start.

I'd just go to fuel pressure first because it seems to be a common issue with the Explorer, and you can do it for free. It sure beats replacing a pump when you don't need to.
 






OKAY, As soon as I get a chance I am going to do this. The only thing that makes no sense is why can you hear the fuel pump sometimes but not others? I think that is the million dollar question.
 






Agreed. Maybe I'm getting in too deep.

You should hear the pump run briefly when the key goes "on". Swap fuel pump relay with the air conditioner relay to see if that fixes it. If not, the suggestion from Tony H is a good try too.
 






Lol Thanks for the tip, And actually the other day when It wouldn't start I beat the crap out of the fuel filter and it started(I had also removed the air duct at the throttle body) and immediately started giving it gas. Also since then it has decided not to work and I beat the crap out of the tank, then it started. Coincidence? Maybe, But I'm not sure...Anyways I will report back as soon as I can get over there and mess with it more!
 



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Have you tried the fuel pump relay yet?

:usa::exp: This has been suggested by 3 different people. Posts # 3,13,& 18.
 






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