Front Wheel Bearings - DIY or Paid Mechanic?

[headshrink]

1998 Explorer XLT 4.0L SOHC 4WD
180K miles

I have a very strong suspicion that I have at least one bad wheel bearing in my front end, and read through these well done DIYs: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1499806

and this one:
http://www.ebay.com/gds/Ford-Explor...nt-Wheel-Hub-Bearing/10000000002168689/g.html

RepairPal estimates repair costs of approximately $400-$500 per side ($275-350 is what they figured for parts).
Autozone has a Duralast/Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly for $108 per wheel.

Can I trust the RepairPal estimate to being anything close to reality? Since it's over 100 degrees outside, and I don't look forward to fighting with frozen hub bolts with my "average Joe's" tools, I would pay a little more to have the job done by someone else, but not THAT much.

I'm looking for some advise. What should I reasonably expect to pay at a local garage, is it worth it, or should I really do it myself (money's always tight around here)?

 

[jremington59]

You can order Timkins from Rock Auto for a buck twenty a piece. And it takes a novice, at the most a few hours a side. A good mechanic about an hour. That's way to much money.

 

[Dave 1955]

Do it yourself and save a bunch. Not really that hard.
You must have a buddy that will help for beer!
I did both of my fronts on my 95 a few years back with no probs and I'm just a average mech. Took like 2 hours and I did both side while I was at it because I figured the one good one would be bad after a another 6 months or so and why not just do both while the tools are out.

 

[lilredex97]

Just loosen the main big nut while the wheel is still on because its tight. Very simple. 4 bolts on the back and the sensor.

 

[headshrink]

Very good, thanks for the pep talk. Think I'll give it a go.

 

[SLAYERMIKE]

Yeah it's really easy, just make sure you have the right socket for the axle nut and soak the bolts with some penetrating oil a day or 2 before you try, maybe more depending on where you live. Good luck!

 

[1996BLKBauer]

Timkens are $99 from RockAuto, for the whole assembly, and new ABS sensor. It took me maybe 30 minutes to do mine. The hardest part is getting the bolts off that hold the bearing on. mine where pretty rusty, so I had to use a torch to get mine off, you may have better luck then me. It really isn't that bad. Just make sure you torque the big nut that hold the axle into place real tight, I think it need something like 180-220 ft lbs.

 

[bill06447]

I have yet to find a garage that can fix anything without me having to go back and clean up, retighten, realign, etc. That said, the only limit to what I will do myself is PATIENCE!

 

[JimMadsen]

I did my driver front on my chevy lumina the other week. Same principle. When I took the main bolt off, I stuck a screwdriver into the rotor up against the caliper as a "stop" when I stepped on the breaker bar.

I am in CT and rust is always a problem. But none of the 5 bolts gave me an issue. The only stuck bolts were the ones holding the caliper bracket in place.

Before you take it all apart, make sure your new axle nut fits. The one I got that RA swore up and down is for my car was nowhere close to fitting.

While you are in there, good time to inspect arms and ball joints (or go to a shop and get a free or cheap alignment check. See what they say about everything and then turn down the guaranteed needed alignment from them.

For tools, all you should need is a breaker bar, proper sockets, 3 inch extension, regular socket wrench, screwdriver, chisel and I used a mallet.

Spray some liquid wrench on the axle to help get the splines out and some lithium grease on the new one to get the splines to slide on. I used the chisel to pry the old one off from all the built up rust and dirt.

The mallet was to help me get the caliper back on. Don't know why, but all I have to do is line it up with the lower bolt in, and 2 whacks gets the top half on.

I know I did a sedan, and you are talking SUV, but my exp doing the lumina leaves me no concerns doing the wife mountaineer when it is needed.

 

[headshrink]

I have it up on jack stands to give it a final Dx test prior to buying parts. I tried rocking the tire from 12 and 6 o'clock. I can't get it to budge. When I rotate the wheel by hand I can't feel anything obvious. I'll list the symptoms below, and maybe it'll be obvious to others what is, or is not, likely the problem.



Sound: It makes a low, rhythmic whirring sound that matches the speed of the vehicle.

Feel: I feel resistance that matches the rhythm of the sound (my primary concern). In addition to this, there's a vibration under light acceleration that gets worse under heavy acceleration. This vibration problem worsened immediately after getting new tires on the front end. The before mentioned rhythmic whirring sound can happen regardless of vibration.

Frequency: We notice it almost every time we drive, but this frequency increased with time. Initially it was only occasional. The whirring is most obvious at lower speeds, 15-35mph. But it also happens when accelerating hard at faster speeds too (like a short freeway onramp). Acceleration is sure to add the vibrations.

Other info: Hopefully the following is unrelated, but it very well may be relevant.... Reading through the paperwork from the last service (2 yrs ago), I find the following notes:
"CK FOR HUM IN REAR, UNDER ACCEL AT 50MPH"
"CHECK NOISES FOUND FRONT DIFF BEARINGS NOISY NO NOISES HEARD IN REAR"

Since my wife picked up the car back then, she's the one who talked to the mechanic, and she doesn't know cars. She said they said the front diff has little life left.

All this being said.... am I on a wild goose chase with the wheel bearings? Since it's 4wd (not AWD), I didn't think the diff would affect normal driving. Am I wrong?

 

[leoJr]

I'll start a new thread it my question distracts from the great advice and information the original poster is getting!

I have a '99, V8, 2 wheel drive. Do I have this "all in one assembly" front bearings or the old school serviceable bearings and races?

This thread has been a great source of information....thanks for the responses and the links!

 

[JimMadsen]

headshrink, how is it when taking turns up onto the highway? Something like a curved ramp where you have to really move the wheel. If it gets worse with a turn to the right, driver bearing may be bad. Worse with turn to the left, pass bearing may be bad. This is not from much exp with me, but lots and lots of surfing trying to diagnose my wheel bearing. Best sound I heard was no hum after I was done! To me it sounded and felt like the older heavy duty barber clippers.

leojr, easiest way to find out is go to amazon.com, rockauto, autozone, napaonline and put in your car then search for parts that fit it. Of course if you wait a few min people will just answer the question........ myself I bet you have the all in one as you say, but honestly I am not 100% sure as I have not done one yet on mine.

 

[headshrink]

headshrink, how is it when taking turns up onto the highway? Something like a curved ramp where you have to really move the wheel. If it gets worse with a turn to the right, driver bearing may be bad. Worse with turn to the left, pass bearing may be bad. This is not from much exp with me, but lots and lots of surfing trying to diagnose my wheel bearing. Best sound I heard was no hum after I was done! To me it sounded and felt like the older heavy duty barber clippers.

Nothing different is obvious during turns.

 

[JimMadsen]

Someone else would have to speak to the differential bearing, but was thinking tires could be a cause. Did you have the noise before changing? Maybe try rotating them in case it is a bad wear pattern.

 

[headshrink]

Someone else would have to speak to the differential bearing, but was thinking tires could be a cause. Did you have the noise before changing? Maybe try rotating them in case it is a bad wear pattern.

Yeah, that's part of my concern.... it was there prior, but got worse with new tires. Initially I'd forgotten the info from the work receipt two years ago, but since they specifically mentioned the differential and I couldn't rock the wheel bearings, I figured that's more likely the culprit. I foresee myself spending lots of money I don't have this week.

 

[JimMadsen]

I foresee myself spending lots of money I don't have this week.

Sounds like a normal week to me!

Hopefully someone else will be by tonight to help more, gonna tap out myself. Clueless on diff's. A quick google got me this:
http://www.ringpinion.com/technical...To/GeneralInfo//Diagnosing_Noise_(Part_1).inc

Good luck

 

[drdoom]

Jim good call on the tires...that is ControlTrac system, and all four tires must match or the speed sensor input will be off causing the transfer case clutch to energize. Check the circumference on the tires.

 

[bobflood]

I'll start a new thread it my question distracts from the great advice and information the original poster is getting!

I have a '99, V8, 2 wheel drive. Do I have this "all in one assembly" front bearings or the old school serviceable bearings and races?

This thread has been a great source of information....thanks for the responses and the links!

2WD is a more traditional race and bearing setup; just have to remove caliper, caliper bracket, and axle nut on end of spindle. Rotors are integrated w hubs, so if you need new rotors the new hubs often have races pree-installed. Good luck.

 

[headshrink]

Almost forgot to update:

First mechanic said they really didn't feel anything. I had them do it again, specifying testing at freeway speeds. They determined it was vibration from the steering rack, estimating about $700-750 to fix.

I decided to wait, due to other issues, but may have to scrap it.