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2013 Explorer 4wd rear drive shaft noise when accelerating

jeffreycowart

Active Member
Joined
October 6, 2008
Messages
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City, State
Chattanooga, TN
Year, Model & Trim Level
2013 Explorer Limited 4WD
Hello all. Just picked up a 2013 Explorer Limited 4wd from Carmax with 4600 miles on it. Just got it home today and noticed a strange sound when accelerating from a stop. It sounds like a something is wrapped around the rear drive shaft, and comes up right under the front middle console. The first time I thought it was just my keys rattling in the cup holder. That was under easy acceleration. It gets more pronounced under harder acceleration. (All have been mild accelerations of less than 50% throttle, I have yet to give it a good full throttle start, because I know its not a race car...)

It only occurs when I take off from a stop and is very easy to reproduce.

I put it in Sand mode and accelerated and it was louder. I put it in sand mode because I know the power is split 50/50 front and rear in that mode.

I will take it to the dealer to look at, but I always like to be armed with info before I go.

I have been searching the forum, but nothing like this came up in my searches.

Any other user experiences or better keywords to search for would be greatly appreciated.

BTW this is my first post, but I have read this forum since 2006 when I got my 2007 Explorer I just traded in on this 2013. I just hope the new 2013 holds up as well as the 2007, which I had very few problems with.
 



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This is the first post in here of an issue like you describe. Since it is easily reproduced, you should have no issues getting it fixed.
 






Before posting my original post, I crawled under the vehicle to make sure nothing was wrapped around the drive shaft. After posting I was out updating the MFT to the newest version and decided to crawl under again and see if the PTU was leaking like described in a TSB.

Once under there I put vertical pressure upwards on the drive shaft, it moved about 2-3 inches!!! The driveshaft support bearing block was just about to fall off... It is located directly under the front middle console where the noise was originating from. There are two 13mm bolts, one on each side. I tightened them each in about 3".

So each time I took off the centrifugal force would cause the drive shaft to straighten and lift the block to the correct position. During this drive shaft wind up is when the noise appeared. If I came to a slow speed or complete stop, the drive shaft would fall back down to gravity and repeat.

So much for Carmax's 125 pt certified inspection. I guess giving a good old wiggle to the drive shaft is not on their list.

Just glad Ford used some long bolts that prevented it from falling all the way out. I fear that could have caused a serious accident.

I will take to Ford and have them re-torque and I assume apply thread locker to that component.

This car only has 4,700 miles on it, so it must have been loose from the factory...

Hope this will help or prevent other people from a serious issue.

Regards,
Jeff
 






Before posting my original post, I crawled under the vehicle to make sure nothing was wrapped around the drive shaft. After posting I was out updating the MFT to the newest version and decided to crawl under again and see if the PTU was leaking like described in a TSB.

Once under there I put vertical pressure upwards on the drive shaft, it moved about 2-3 inches!!! The driveshaft support bearing block was just about to fall off... It is located directly under the front middle console where the noise was originating from. There are two 13mm bolts, one on each side. I tightened them each in about 3".

So each time I took off the centrifugal force would cause the drive shaft to straighten and lift the block to the correct position. During this drive shaft wind up is when the noise appeared. If I came to a slow speed or complete stop, the drive shaft would fall back down to gravity and repeat.

So much for Carmax's 125 pt certified inspection. I guess giving a good old wiggle to the drive shaft is not on their list.

Just glad Ford used some long bolts that prevented it from falling all the way out. I fear that could have caused a serious accident.

I will take to Ford and have them re-torque and I assume apply thread locker to that component.

This car only has 4,700 miles on it, so it must have been loose from the factory...

Hope this will help or prevent other people from a serious issue.

Regards,
Jeff

One would think being that loose or with that much noise SOMEONE would have noticed it before now...? If you crawled under there and noticed it anyone else could have as well... Doesn't seem like a factory issue--seems like something else is going on...
 






...I will take to Ford and have them re-torque and I assume apply thread locker to that component...

Touch base with me after your appointment, jeffreycowart; I want to hear about how things go. If you need me to step in and help, send me a PM with your name, phone number, VIN, and preferred servicing dealership.

Crystal
 






Finally had time to take my Ex to the dealer. After I tightened the rear drive shaft support I decided to drive it for a few weeks to see if there were any other issues before taking it to the dealer, since I just bought the car .

Here was my list for the dealer:
The fuel level gauge would not go below 50%, check engine light came on, re-torque the drive shaft support, the turn signal is very tough, I smell something (doesn't really smell like burnt oil) after stronger accelerations, and another strange flapping/creaking/twisting sound when turning right driving up hills (its not the bumper creaking TSB).

Fixed: Turns out the previous owner had the fuel pump recall performed and the dealer (somewhere around the DC area) really botched the job. When they replaced the part they re-installed the fuel pump assembly wrong causing the float to not go lower than 50%. To get to the tank they have to drop the drive shaft, so the dealer forgot to torque the support back up. The check engine light came on because the onboard computer knew something was wrong when the level was not dropping past 50%.

My dealer said the drive shaft support bolts were bent, so they replaced them. Hope more damage wasn't done to the drivetrain if there was enough force/wobble to bend those big bolts... My dealer said they checked everything and it looked good.

Not fixed: They told me the tough turn signal was "normal" for this model. How can it be normal when people drive your car and are afraid they are going to break the lever trying to use the flicker, or they constantly flash brights. I will take the switch apart following another members solution for the "notchy" turn signal.

They said they could not reproduce the smell on acceleration and they could not reproduce the noise. I figured they would not put much effort into these problems. They only put 3 miles on my car. I will wait for a better solution/TSB before pushing the smell issue. It does not seem to be as bad as others, but I definitely do smell something. I am more concerned if CO is entering the cabin as I have a 8 week old and 2.5 year old child in the car with me. Has anyone had luck with the cheaper $50 CO meters on ebay?

Thanks for everyones help here, really is a wealth of information.
 






Well I can tell ya that the rough (or hard) turn signal is not normal. Mine was so hard to put down that I literally had to grab it with my hand as using finger tips were painful due to arthritis. Mine was replaced under warranty and it is now buttery smooth! You may try a different dealer.
 






Had the loose driveshaft carrier bearing issue myself. Started a couple days after the fuel pump recall. Not cool.
 






Finally had time to take my Ex to the dealer. After I tightened the rear drive shaft support I decided to drive it for a few weeks to see if there were any other issues before taking it to the dealer, since I just bought the car .

Here was my list for the dealer:
The fuel level gauge would not go below 50%, check engine light came on, re-torque the drive shaft support, the turn signal is very tough, I smell something (doesn't really smell like burnt oil) after stronger accelerations, and another strange flapping/creaking/twisting sound when turning right driving up hills (its not the bumper creaking TSB).

Fixed: Turns out the previous owner had the fuel pump recall performed and the dealer (somewhere around the DC area) really botched the job. When they replaced the part they re-installed the fuel pump assembly wrong causing the float to not go lower than 50%. To get to the tank they have to drop the drive shaft, so the dealer forgot to torque the support back up. The check engine light came on because the onboard computer knew something was wrong when the level was not dropping past 50%.

My dealer said the drive shaft support bolts were bent, so they replaced them. Hope more damage wasn't done to the drivetrain if there was enough force/wobble to bend those big bolts... My dealer said they checked everything and it looked good.

Not fixed: They told me the tough turn signal was "normal" for this model. How can it be normal when people drive your car and are afraid they are going to break the lever trying to use the flicker, or they constantly flash brights. I will take the switch apart following another members solution for the "notchy" turn signal.

They said they could not reproduce the smell on acceleration and they could not reproduce the noise. I figured they would not put much effort into these problems. They only put 3 miles on my car. I will wait for a better solution/TSB before pushing the smell issue. It does not seem to be as bad as others, but I definitely do smell something. I am more concerned if CO is entering the cabin as I have a 8 week old and 2.5 year old child in the car with me. Has anyone had luck with the cheaper $50 CO meters on ebay?

Thanks for everyones help here, really is a wealth of information.
For some reason this turn signal issue is only on the 2013 models. As Dr Plastic mentioned, he and some members have had it successfully fixed under warranty. I would recommend that you send a PM (private message) to Crystal (FordService) regarding this issue to see if she can help in getting it resolved. You can use this link; http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/private.php?do=newpm&u=157968
Include your name, daytime phone number, VIN, mileage, and dealership info in your message.

If you don't have any luck, here is a thread on a 'DIY' fix;

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=388119&highlight=turn+signal

Good luck.

Peter
 






I am am big DIYer, so I was planning on doing the turn signal fix myself. I will report back how it goes. I like the satisfaction I get from DIY!

So far I have changed out most lights to LED, hardwired radar detector, installed DVD headrests, and installed a 5 drawer tool chest. Not bad considering I have had the car for 3 weeks... Most of this was accomplished much faster from the tips and guides I found on here.
 






The notchy turn signal fix posted by Pete165 worked like a charm.:thumbsup:
Took me about an hour to complete. Works great now, very smooth in both directions.
 






I am am big DIYer, so I was planning on doing the turn signal fix myself. I will report back how it goes. I like the satisfaction I get from DIY!

So far I have changed out most lights to LED, hardwired radar detector, installed DVD headrests, and installed a 5 drawer tool chest. Not bad considering I have had the car for 3 weeks... Most of this was accomplished much faster from the tips and guides I found on here.


Curious what your tool chest install looks like.....pics?
 






Husky Tool Chest

Curious what your tool chest install looks like.....pics?

rbreding, I picked up a Husky 4 drawer tool chest from Home Depot. I am always needing various tools and the 4 drawers helps keep everything organized. Of course with approx 80-100lbs of tools my big concern is keeping it in place in the event of an accident. Especially since I have two small kids riding with me most of the time.

I used the cargo hooks as tie/bolt down points. Using two eye bolts, with large washers, and a large wing-nut for quick install and removal.

The factory cargo anchors/hooks do not seem to be the strongest, but I think they would hold up in the event of an accident. If the roof rack can hold 100lbs, these metal anchors should hold this chest.

Here is the end result:
 

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