Need help in disconnect the trans cooler line, can't take the nut off! | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Need help in disconnect the trans cooler line, can't take the nut off!

dcdyd

Well-Known Member
Joined
January 7, 2011
Messages
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City, State
Eden Prairie, MN
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 Explorer
I am in the process in replacing the trans cooler lines between the transmission and radiator/trans cooler. Both lines are rusted and are leaking. I have brought the lines from rockauto.

Today when I tried to disconnect the trans cooler line from the transmission side, I found that I am in trouble. The space I can use to work from under the truck is so tight so that I couldn't even put my hands in. The nuts is 5/8 in size and I can only put a wrench there but can't add any force to turn it at all.

See below picture. It is a 98 V8 AWD. The nut I am talking about is in the middle of the picture.

10812067734_c08eac4e22_b.jpg


Below is the picture when I put a 5/8 wrench on the nut.

10811934726_c1a602bfdc_b.jpg


Any suggestion on tools or methods is well appreciated.
 



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what about using a crow's foot? is that the dipstick tube you're hitting? if it is. you should be able to unbolt it and remove it. i think it's just pushed in with an o-ring seal.
 






I tried crow's foot and the head is too big. IN addition, I tried several extension from the crow's foot to a ratchet which is flexible and I still can;t move it at all.

This is not the dip stick tube. This is the cooler line from the transmission to the radiator/cooler. The connector is close to the trans pan and between the trans pan and the exhaust pipe. It is so tight there.
 






I tried crow's foot and the head is too big. IN addition, I tried several extension from the crow's foot to a ratchet which is flexible and I still can;t move it at all.

This is not the dip stick tube. This is the cooler line from the transmission to the radiator/cooler. The connector is close to the trans pan and between the trans pan and the exhaust pipe. It is so tight there.

i was referring to the black tube the head of the wrench is resting against.
 






I tried crow's foot and the head is too big. IN addition, I tried several extension from the crow's foot to a ratchet which is flexible and I still can;t move it at all.

This is not the dip stick tube. This is the cooler line from the transmission to the radiator/cooler. The connector is close to the trans pan and between the trans pan and the exhaust pipe. It is so tight there.

I think he means that it looks like the trans pan dipstick tube is preventing you from turning your wrench, so you might try removing the tube, allowing you enough travel to work your wrench.
 






Go to AutoZone and rent a line wrench, they have different angles and it's a FREE rental (once you've returned the tool)
 






Ditto on the line wrench, Looks like patience will be a plus also.
 






Thanks for the tips. I will try the line wrench. The problem is that there is not much clearance to align the wrench and the nut. And there is not much clearance to turn the wrench. Look at the second picture above, the wrench and the nut is at 45 degree angle and the black tube (dipstick tube) is on the way to turn the wrench.
 






As koda2000 suggested, move the dipstick tube for clearance and swing room. Wouldn't that be quicker and easier? :scratch:
 






Can the dipstick tube to be removed, from where it is connected to the trans pan?
 






I am at work now and I don;t have access to the truck.
 






Can the dipstick tube to be removed, from where it is connected to the trans pan?

as i told you. the tube is bolted to the engine, or trans bell housing, but once the bolt is removed the dipstick just pulls out of the trans. there's just an o-ring which keeps it from leaking. be ready, you may loose a little fluid depending on the angle of the truck. if level you may not loose much/any.
 






Thanks a lot for the information. I will try to check that out tonight.
 






What I usually do (brake lines mostly but it will work for this as well) cut the line you're replacing with aviation snips or whatever and use a 6 point swivel socket on the end.

Bill
 






Like koda said, remove the dipstick tube,makes it a lot easier!
 






The lines on my 2001 were bad.
I just cut them as high as I could next to the tranny then I just used neoprene hose to run them up front.
No probs now.
 






If I knew that it would this difficult I would have cut it and used neoprene hose. However I have ordered the steel pipes from Rockauto.
 






If I knew that it would this difficult I would have cut it and used neoprene hose. However I have ordered the steel pipes from Rockauto.
They are returnable, probably cost you $7 in return freight though. What price aggravation?

Bill
 






All three pipes are rusted and two are leaking badly. $114 for all three including shipping after the forum discount. The box is huge because the irregular shape of the pipe.
 



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You need to get a line wrench. Then you may have to heat and bend it to get where you can turn it. I have made many wrenches that way.
 






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