Electrical Connector Part Number

[Divemaster191307]

Does anyone know the part # for the connector (with or without pigtail) that plugs into the front Turn Signal / Parking Light socket? For reference, I am looking for the connector that matches the socket below. I have an intermitent connection for the turn signal on the passenger side and the parking light on the driver side, and it is driving me nuts!

 

[Flag Gibby]

I believe the ford part number you want is #13411 with an A or B extension. That seems to be the straight connector part number that they use now for the parking/turn signal. I would pull the part number off the back of one of the connectors to be sure you are getting the right one since they all have 13411 in them but differ by the prefix and extension.
This looks about right: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-F...iter_Display:4.6L&hash=item416220f6e8&vxp=mtr
It is listed as #4F9Z-13411-A

 

[Divemaster191307]

4F9Z-13411-A is the socket, you're right. What I am looking for is a pigtail to replace the one on the harness. The little locking tabs are broken on mine and keep working themselves lose (at least that's what I think is happening). I looks what I need is a 6U2Z14S411AB (WPT1025), like below, but different sites have different pictures for that part #. I don't really want to waste $40 for the wrong part.

 

[Ornery]

Jeebus, would you pay $40.00 for the "right part"? Call me a butcher, hack or cheapskate, but I'm pretty certain I could sock those up tight with about three small cable ties each. Broke six out of eight of the fuel injector connectors on one of my cars. Instead of paying $15-$20 each for replacements, I used a few cable ties. Cost near nothing and worked fine. Ghetto? Maybe, but it worked and it's done!

Edit That particular connector wouldn't lend itself to attaching a cable tie. Instead, my other ghetto solution would be a dab of silicone in the latching area. It acts like a glue, but you can still pull it apart if needed.

 

[Divemaster191307]

I'm with you, I wouldn't pay $40 each, no way, but $40 for a pair, I'm considering it... I tried some hotglue, but that didn't really hold up either. I think the connection is a little too finicky. Nothing against "ghetto fix", it's only ghetto if you can see it
Another reason for a "real" connector is that I am working on a 3rd HID retrofit, so I don't want anything too permanent since I will be taking the current assemblies off and on a few times.

 

[Ornery]

Forgot the most important fix for this issue! Here's $20.00 well spent: Caig DeoxIT® D-Series

Brush that on the connector's male and female parts. Then, use a tiny brush to clean out the female connector. You can find these in the drug store dental isle:

Then, silicone or glue the connector in place. That should be the end of that problem!

 

[Divemaster191307]

Oh yeah, I always forget about that stuff when I put thing back together! Thanks for the reminder.