SOHC V6 Supercharger

The purpose of this thread is to discuss the design and possible development and installation of a supercharger for my 2000 Sport SOHC V6 engine. I have no first hand experience with forced induction systems and want to learn from forum members that have them on their vehicles. While I don't plan to implement a turbocharger system, there are many problems common to all types of forced induction systems.

The easiest and least expensive solution would be to modify a Ranger SOHC V6 Banshee kit and purchase a used Thunderbird supercoupe positive displacement blower. However, the kit makes no provisions for an aftercooler which I think is beneficial even with only 5 psi of boost.

The Explorer Express supercharger kit includes a quality looking manifold but one is very difficult to obtain.

Once again, there are no provisions for an aftercooler.

I suspect the best solution for me would be a centrifugal supercharger with a water aftercooler. With my oil coolers and remote filters I have very little room in front of the radiator for an intercooler. I am interested in a boost in the range of 5 to 8 psi - enough for a significant performance increase but not so much to adversely impact reliability and require beefing up of engine internals or the transmission/torque converter.

Procharger sells a kit for the 2005 - 2010 Mustang V6.

But the Mustang configuration is opposit to the Explorer - intake on left and battery on right. Also, there is a lot more room between the engine front and the radiator rear on the Mustang than on the Explorer.


Vortech also makes a kit for the Mustang but there are the same problems.

The logical location for a centrifugal supercharger is the same side as the air filter box and intake manifold inlet port. Unfortunately, that is where the alternator is located. I'm investigating the possibility of replacing the belt driven power steering pump with an electric motor driven pump and then relocating the alternator to the old power steering pump location.

 

[Carguy3J]

I have to get started on my custom air filter enclosure top so I can use a stock type dropin filter.
.

Why? After all that work, to improve performance, with the blower, the expensive exhaust mods,etc..... Why would you choke the intake, right at the very beginning with a stock-type flat panel filter? Even a K&N type stock replacement is still not going to flow as much as a "cone" style filter.

It looks like there would be enough room, with another angled coupler or two, to fit a cone filter in that right front corner. I think either a 45deg or 90deg elbow, with the cone pointing down, or down and towards the RF corner of the engine bay, could work. You should even be able to put an "isolation" box around it, to prevent it from sucking hot under-hood air.

 

[2000StreetRod]

High flow air filters

In April, after Amsoil searched all of their warehouses and distribution centers in the country at my request, I purchased the last two available discontinued Amsoil EAA122 high efficiency, high air flow, high capacity and cleanable drop in air filters for my Explorer. Each filter is guaranteed for four years or 100K miles if cleaned every year or 25K miles. The air flow performance test results by Amsoil was comparable to the air flow of the Akimoto Racing cone filters I used before I installed the Lightning 90mm MAF sensor. The filtration test results were superior to anything else on the market. Now that I reinstalled the "silencer" I have three 1 3/4" dia. inlets to the stock air filter enclosure base.

The two side ports are cold air inlets.

The total cross sectional area of the three inlet ports (7.2 sq. in.) is less than that of the Lightning MAF sensor (12 sq. in.) but exceeds the area of the 75 mm throttle body and the 3" dia. plenum inlet port and interconnecting 3" dia. tubes and hoses. The flat area of the filter is more than 50 sq. in. I doubt it will contribute much restriction.

Blocking engine compartment air is a good idea. I may fab a shroud around the "silencer".

 

[2000StreetRod]

engine wiring harness ready to install

The reworked engine wiring harness is finally ready to install.

It is complete except for the IAC valve and EVR connections. I have to build an IACV and EVR mounting bracket that attaches to the M90 before I can determine wire lengths to their associated connectors. I'll install the harness and wire the two connectors (4 wires) later with the harness in place.

I ended up removing all of the stock looms except for the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor. The loose wire with attached cable tie near the PCM connector is the trigger wire for cylinder #1 . That's the wire needed for the dynamometer ignition sensor pickup. I installed all new fuel injector electrical connectors with the spring release.

I really like them compared to the stock injector connectors.

Electrically, there are no differences (hopefully) in the reworked harness. However, I probably moved, shortened or lengthened at least half of the wires. I staggered the splices in the main bundle between the PCM connector and the main harness connector (C115) to keep the bundle small enough to fit in 1" dia. convoluted split loom. I've probably spent 100 hours planning the routing, studying the wiring diagrams, reworking the harness and testing continuity paths. I could do it again (but wouldn't) in less than 50 hours.

I won't be getting much done on the supercharger installation from now until 10 Dec. We're leaving tomorrow for a family Thanksgiving celebration at the beach and a couple days after we return we leave for a Christmas season tour bus trip to Washington DC, New York City, Boston and Philadelphia. No airport delays or security checks and I don't have to do any driving or planning.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Front fuel hose rework

The Banshee kit planned configuration for the front fuel hoses placed outward stress on the fuel rails/injectors with my long high flow injectors. I swapped the supplied hoses and fittings around to eliminate the outward stress.

There is also better access to the ECT sensor and sender.

There is zero clearance with the M90 installed but that should be OK.

 

[2000StreetRod]

TPS & ATF dipstick, throttle plate cables

The TPS electrical connector is directly above the ATF dipstick.

Since I don't want to remove the main intake in order to check the ATF level or add fluid I will have to modify the holding tube mounting bracket and possibly bend the tube to move the dipstick aft about 2 inches.

The stock accelerator cable to the throttle plate is about 3 inches short and the cruise control cable is too long to make the bend unless I loop over itself. I've purchased and received a cut to length accelerator cable. I have to investigate shortening the cruise cable.

 

[2000StreetRod]

initial fuel system test

I decided to perform a test of the fuel system before permanently installing the manifold/intercooler since it would be difficult to detect leaks then and hard to fix them. After tightening the fuel fittings I removed the fuel pump relay and inserted a small flat blade screwdriver into the relay pump contact. I connected the positive terminal of my battery charger to the screwdriver and the negative terminal to chassis ground. When I plugged the battery charger plug into an extension cord outlet I heard the pump run and noted the current draw was only about 6 amps. Just as the system started to pressurize and I started to look for leaks the driver side fuel rail popped off the injectors and fuel went everywhere. I need to strap or wire the fuel rails in place before conducting another test. Normally, the fuel rails are held down by metal pieces that attach to the top of the intake manifold.

 

[Dono]

Excellent thinking.
Saved yourself a ton of extra work.
Can you fabricate some straps to the lower manifold? Oh man, I cant believe the fabricating you are going thru.

Wiring harness looks fantastic, btw.

 

[2000StreetRod]

will use head bolts

. . . Can you fabricate some straps to the lower manifold?. . .

There's only the M90 intake manifold which blocks visibility and access to the injectors and fuel hoses/rails.

I have the normal fuel rail hold down bolts that screw into the heads.

I can attach metal strapping under the heads of the bolts and then screw the bolts in to tighten the straps.

I think I have some in the garage somewhere.

 

[Dono]

That's just the strapping I was thinking of.

 

[Carguy3J]

I'm just curious / want to clarify: I was planning on doing this to my '99 Explorer one day ( Putting in an M90). I even have a blower already, just waiting for the right time. However, my understanding was that the RP Caster kit was supposed to be pretty much a bolt-in deal. Is this amount of customization/fabrication,etc.. ,that you are detailing here, actually required to make this work, or are you just going overboard just to do things you're own way?

 

[2000StreetRod]

Ranger kit

The Banshee kit is designed to be installed on a Ranger, not an Explorer. The Ranger stock configuration is similar to the 3rd generation Explorer. It has a split wiring harness instead of the 2nd generation down the middle between the head intake ports wiring. The valve covers are different with the oil filler tube on the passenger side. The Banshee kit turns the throttle body on its side with inadequate clearance between the hood and the cruise control pivot. I was not willing to permanently lose cruise control. Using a Ranger wiring harness and following the planned Banshee installation configuration would probably greatly simplify the installation. RP Caster and I worked together on finding the heater core for my intercooler. He has been extremely helpful in the planning of my installation. A hood scoop is not needed on a Ranger with the standard blower pulley installed. I have a smaller blower pulley (2.7") but inadequate clearance between it and the hood. I will investigate the possibility of installing a Ranger hood instead of a hood scoop. Either the hood on the Ranger is different from my Sport or the engine is at a different height or angle relative to the hood.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Stubborn fuel leak

I realized it would not take much to keep the fuel rails from popping off the injectors so I just tied some boards down with strong cord to the stock fuel rail bolts.

There were two leaks when I pressurized the system using a battery charger jumpered to the fuel pump relay. One was at the rear where the fuel hose attaches to the fuel pressure sensor tee. It was easily fixed by just tightening the fitting. The other was at the quick disconnect to AN adapter assembly.

It appears to be the quick disconnect adapter fitting. First I tightened the fitting but it still leaked. There didn't appear to be any thread sealant used during the kit assembly so I disconnected the fitting, applied thread sealer and reconnected everything. It still leaks even when I tighten as much as I dare. Tomorrow I'll try RTV and let it cure for six days while my wife and I are on our Christmas season guided tour in the northeast.

I noted that once the fuel system is pressurized the fuel pump draws 9.3 amps.

 

[asafley]

Thank you

Thank you, 2000StreetRod, for the inspiration to supercharge my own truck. I am just wrapping up my Supercharger install on my '97. Just got the exhaust done today and installed a 2.8" pulley. Still need to fine tune the Methanol injection, get James to tune it for me, and clean up everything else. In the end, I am looking forward to really driving this beast - heck, I had a hard time getting out of the exhaust shop because everyone thought it was the craziest thing to see a supercharger in an Explorer and wanted to take pictures.

 

[2000StreetRod]

wiring harness?

Congratulations on your Banshee M90 installation! Did you use your stock engine wiring harness like 4pointslow or use a Ranger or 3rd generation engine wiring harness? I assume that the 3 inch body lift gave you room for the blower pulley without modifying the hood. Did you install an intercooler?

 

[asafley]

Thank you! I used the stock engine harness but separated the wires to each side. I didn't go as far as you did, but that doesn't mean it is out of the question and it is something that I want to do. With that said, major props to you for taking the time to do that. In regards to the body lift, it is the best thing I did, but I did have to extend more wires because of it to separate the wires to each side and avoid any excessive stress to the harness. Otherwise, I have plenty of room to work on the sides of the engine - spark plugs and headers are no problem. I had the exhaust shop move the driver side cat to the passenger frame rail and that should make working on the transmission pretty easy. I do have the 5R55E transmissions, but I updated valve body, retention plate, installed both the Superior and Transgo kit, dual transcooler, external filter, Borg Warner EPC solenoid, Sonnax Boost Valve, and running Amsoil's trans oil in it. An intercooler would be nice to have and it isn't out of the question. I wish I could do a setup like you, 2000StreetRod, but Ron said that would be a no go. I also bought the supercharger charger kit cheap because the seller never installed it and, I believe, didn't have an explorer anymore. Therefore, there was probably no way to modify the existing manifold. In the futureI might devise an alternate setup for the intercooler. For now, I have the methanol injection.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Successful fuel pressure test

After a week of curing the RTV held during a fuel pressure test this afternoon. The pressure registered on the gauge installed in the fuel block was 72 psi. That's 5 psi more than the pressure I measured on the Schrader valve with stock fuel rails after installing the Aeromotive pump. The difference may be due to the different gauges used. I was pleased that as the fuel system pressurized the fuel pump maximum current was only 9.8 amps as mearsured on the battery charger. That means I can safely power the fuel pump and intercooler pump on the same 20 amp circuit and don't have to add a relay.

I received the mating connector with pigtails for the fuel pressure/temperature sensor. The sensor fits extremely well in the current location on the passenger side but I noticed today that I would have to remove the rear fuel line assembly in order to tighten or loosen the valve cover.

That's probably why the Banshee kit has the fuel pressure damper on the driver side. Tomorrow I'll move it there and see if I can still install the engine wiring harness. If that doesn't give me enough clearance I may purchase a 45 degree NPT to AN fitting and install it and the sensor on the passenger side.

Last week before taking a motorcoach tour (Washington DC, NYC, Boston, Philadelphia) I mentioned to James Henson that I might be ready for an engine start next week. By the time I returned home he had sent me an initial tune for my new boosted configuration. I still have lots to do before I'm ready to crank the engine.

 

[2000StreetRod]

have to bend ATF dipstick tube

I've started permanently installing the engine wiring harness. I still have to connect the DPFE sensor, voltage regulator, IAT sensor, TPS, MAF sensor and the to be determined IACV and EVR wiring. I've routed and connected all of the spark plug wires but will enclose the #1 ,#2 & #3 wires near the firewall in flexible conduit since I no longer have the upper intake manifold with holders to keep the wires in place. After numerous attempts I gave up trying to attach the C113 and C118 connectors to the clips on the rear of the heads.

There just wasn't enough room to force them on the clips either reaching down from above or up from the sides. I was afraid they would rattle against the block and trigger the knock sensor so I pushed split pipe insulation up and around them. If I ever pull the engine or the heads I've fix it proper.

I disconnected the ATF dipstick tube mounting bolt and learned that the tube will only move about 1 inch aft. I guess I'll have to remove the tube and bend it since I need about 2 inches aft from stock to avoid the TPS connector.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Ranger Edge Hood?

I've been looking for alternatives to adding a hood scoop. The hood on a 2002 Ranger Edge seems to be taller than my 2000 Sport.
My Sport:

2002 Ranger Edge:

I wonder if the Edge hood will fit on my Sport. I would probably have to replace the front grille & surround and headlights.

Edit: I've decided I like the hood scoop better but without the bug screen.

 

[snoranger]

I tried a powerdome hood on my '95... You would need to swap hood hinges side to side to bolt it on. You will need to chop the top and front of the explorer fenders off and weld the top of the 98+ ranger fenders on... Then modify the radiator support to accept the ranger front end.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Staying with hood scoop

Thanks for the information Kevin! That's more work than I'm capable or want to do so I'll stick with cutting a hole in the hood for the pulley (if necessary) and cover the hole with a non-functional hood scoop. Maybe I can reinforce the underside of the molded urethane scoop and epoxy the edges to the hood to make it stronger. The hood kit comes with an attachable plastic black grille insert with molding. I'll probably cover the rear of the grille insert to make the entire assembly waterproof.