Another 4th Gen Projector Retrofit and halos

[Ronin8002]

Installed the relay harness and everything works fine now....except for the bulb out message which I was expecting since I don't have any resistors on hand. Not sure why these can-bus harnesses didn't work, but oh well.

 

[ashcheema2000]

I had used a small pry bar just the size of a screwdriver and felt that it was easier compared to using screwdriver and it didn't nick the edges of lens either.

I also tried using nose pliers as I read that in mustang p51's post but didn't work so went ahead and tqisted the shield until it snapped off and then took a grinder to it and smoothed it out. Then I drilled two holes on both sides of screw big enough for high beam solenoid wires.

I also had a hard time making the projector fit right but after a lot of grinding around the hole and trying to make a smooth surface it actually worked out quite well. There was tiny bit movement but when u use the silicone grommet it sits perfect cuz it adopts the shape when u tighten and fills the gaps.

All right so I've made some headway on this thing finally. Baked and opened up the headlights today, 260 for 12 minutes seemed about right. I used a table knife to pry them open, seemed like it gave more prying surface than a screwdriver and didn't nick the edges of the lens.

The screw that holds the halogen bulb shield was giving me some trouble, couldn't turn it with needlenose pliers so I just ended up taking a drill and a small bit and drilling through the side of the screw...essentially cutting it with the drill so I could remove the shield.

Fitment is the challenge right now...I cut off the bulk of the plastic tab on the shiny reflector side but it still seems like the bowl on the back of the projector won't go quite deep enough on the other side for me to install the positioning ring, the nut, AND the bulb retainer. Probably need to trim some more so decided to call it a night for now. I think I need it to be completely smooth where the tab was....may also grind out a few of the teeth that are in the opening so I can get the projector back further.

 

[ashcheema2000]

Would you be willing to make them and sell them?

I'd be more than happy to do so. glad that someone asked

 

[ashcheema2000]

Hmm. Should have thought to check these things with the truck running. With the engine off they work fine..engine on...they flicker and go out.

Going to try using my relay harness instead of these can bus things...I really hope that fixes it.

I'm having the same issue too. I was so annoyed. Thought it was because of the drl on mine but you don't even have drl and having same issue. You saved me a trip to ford dealership because i was about to have them programme my drl to be off but i guess i'll have to figure something out myself now

 

[ashcheema2000]

Installed the relay harness and everything works fine now....except for the bulb out message which I was expecting since I don't have any resistors on hand. Not sure why these can-bus harnesses didn'twork, but oh well.

These can bus things are a piece of crap. I dont even have a regular relay harness right now i only have fog lights to light up the road.
I feel we both should call up TRS and as for refund for atleast the can bus harness atleastor they better send some other harness to fix the issue. The guy there kept saying that I won't even need any can bus cuz he said I wont even get any flicker or error message at all but i still ordered one to be on safe side and i am disappointed.
when I called them with my issue they suggested it was because or drl and adviced me to get another relay which was mopar standalone relay as dodges have this as conmon issue

 

[ashcheema2000]

Sorry for the delay but my job is crazy too lol
but here are the final pictures as I've finished up the project and just need to fix the flickering and bulb out message which the canbus harness didnt solve.

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More pictures on the way. Just need to take some decent shots

 

[Ronin8002]

Awesome

 

[ashcheema2000]

Thanks James
here's some more pics with the lights on truck. They actually turned out much better than I expected.

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[Ronin8002]

ordered a set of 4 load resistors and a 9008/h13 connector off of ebay for $20...should get here later in the week and I can get rid of these error messages.

 

[ashcheema2000]

probably might have to do the same thing then. Is it the 50w 6ohm load resistors you need? I only got canbus harness because I didn't want hot resistors under the hood and wanted to just do plugnplay but I guess that's not happening anymore lol.
I dunno if you read my replies to ththose relays have builtvious posts but I'm having same flickering and bulb warning issues as you did. So, I feel that we should call TRS and maybe they can send a replacement mopar standalone harness for free. Because the guy I was talking to at the TRS told me that those relays have built in resistors and capacitors.
here's the link
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/harnesses/morimoto-mopar-xenon-relay-wire-harness.html#.Ut8HTYMTHFo

 

[Ronin8002]

Yeah it's the 50W 6 Ohm resistors. if you search Ebay for "load resistors" you'll see a vender that sells them with wires and taps in a pack of 4. For the relay harness it only uses one of your stock bulb plugs for triggering So the other one needs to have the low and high wires hooked to 1 resistor each and grounded out to the chassis. And tap into the hi/low wires on the other headlight plug and hook the resistors into each one, grounding in the same way.

I got the impression the morimoto can bus harnesses would work based on this thread:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=329090&highlight=canbus+harness

So I don't know what the problem is, unless there is some sort of pulse width modulation that the headlights get with the engine running and that is what causes the flickering. I'll see if I can return the can bus harnesses, or maybe sell them.

probably might have to do the same thing then. Is it the 50w 6ohm load resistors you need? I only got canbus harness because I didn't want hot resistors under the hood and wanted to just do plugnplay but I guess that's not happening anymore lol.
I dunno if you read my replies to ththose relays have builtvious posts but I'm having same flickering and bulb warning issues as you did. So, I feel that we should call TRS and maybe they can send a replacement mopar standalone harness for free. Because the guy I was talking to at the TRS told me that those relays have built in resistors and capacitors.
here's the link
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/harnesses/morimoto-mopar-xenon-relay-wire-harness.html#.Ut8HTYMTHFo

 

[ashcheema2000]

I also came across that post and that's what made me order canbus harness. I'm going to try putting capacitors before the canbus and see if that fixes something since the capacitors will fix the voltage and canbus harness already has resistors in it.
What's weird is that I tried using the low beam as trigger and provide +12volts directly from the battery using a relay but they still flickered and that didnt make any sense to me at all

 

[ashcheema2000]

Okay so this question might sound dumb but do I need to have a relay or could I just use capacitors and resistors directly before the ballasts?

 

[Ronin8002]

Okay so this question might sound dumb but do I need to have a relay or could I just use capacitors and resistors directly before the ballasts?

For the capacitor, not sure if you would have to wire it it parallel (i.e., bridge) the low beam wire and the ground wire on each headlight plug so it would act as a filter. Maybe it would just be in series on the low beam wire...not sure. I think you can leave out the high beam wire since I believe it isn't used to power the ballasts, just low and ground. You would still need power from the high beam and ground to trigger the solenoid for the shields in the projectors.

As for the resistors, I think you want those in parallel (i.e. one each tapping from the high and low beam wires individually) and ground the other side of each to the chassis.

That's assuming the stock wiring is enough to trigger and power the ballasts. If not, then you need a relay to switch power directly from the battery.

I may try and see what happens if I hook up the can bus harness between the relay harness and the ballasts. If it cancels the bulb out error then no need for resistors.

 

[Ronin8002]

I was reading that the morimoto standalone canbus harnesses are basically a capacitor, not a resistor. So....if that's true then you just need resistors then....probably tap into the headlamp wiring before the OEM harness.

I get a buzzing sound from the relay on the harness when I go to high beams, so I guess that some PWM power is getting in there from the high beam on the OEM side. One of the canbus harnesses should fix that.

I'll experiment a bit tomorrow and post up what I figure out.

 

[ashcheema2000]

From what i remember the guy at TRS told me that we cant use canbus and regular relay harness together. I guess probably because they wont just plug into each other without splicing or adapters. Otherwise i dont see a problem in doing that.
I also have afew tricks in mind that i am going to try and play around with the canbus and see if i can come with something. There must be a way to get these canbua things to work as they are meant to.

Now i am just being stubborn and want to make these canbus things to work no matter what. Haha we'll see how that goes lol

 

[ashcheema2000]

I just took a look at the description of standalone canbus on TRS website and it says the following
"Each harness has a built-in resistor pack to mimic the characteristics of a standard halogen bulb being plugged in to your stock harness, tricking the car into thinking nothing has changed.

The Moto Standalones also feature Japanese-made Rubycon 6800uF capacitors to help jump-start the ballasts and keep them running smoothly - using the power directly from the vehicles factory headlight circuit."

Since its meant to fix both flickering and error message so i guess that it would have both resistors and capacitors.

What i can thunk of is like you said about the pulse width modulation. So trying another capacitor to stabilize the voltage would be first step

 

[Ronin8002]

oh right, makes sense that you can't use them together because the output of the can bus harnesses is meant to plug directly into the ballasts. it would have to be a different output harness to work with the relay harness.

Interesting that they say that the can bus harnesses have both capacitors and resistors, because neither of us got the benefit of either one of those when we tried just using them. So my idea of using them together may not work anyway regardless of the physical connections.

 

[ashcheema2000]

What I'm thinking is that the capacitors inside canbus harness are not enough to smooth out the PWM and that causes harness to open close frequently. So putting in more capacitors before the canbus harness might help stabilize the voltage. Because when I tried using low beam to trigger an external relay for feeding direct 12 volt from battery then it still flickered.

The capacitors will need to be put in parallel just like resistors. I was watching this video on youtube where the relay was buzzing but lights did not flicker and it was fixed after putting a capacitor. So you might wanna give that a try for buzzing relay on ur high beams.

I'm gonna pick up some capacitors hopefully today and try those before I get resistors. Just take it step by step. I'll keep you posted

 

[Ronin8002]

What are the specs on the capacitors you picked up?

What I'm thinking is that the capacitors inside canbus harness are not enough to smooth out the PWM and that causes harness to open close frequently. So putting in more capacitors before the canbus harness might help stabilize the voltage. Because when I tried using low beam to trigger an external relay for feeding direct 12 volt from battery then it still flickered.

The capacitors will need to be put in parallel just like resistors. I was watching this video on youtube where the relay was buzzing but lights did not flicker and it was fixed after putting a capacitor. So you might wanna give that a try for buzzing relay on ur high beams.

I'm gonna pick up some capacitors hopefully today and try those before I get resistors. Just take it step by step. I'll keep you posted