Don't click, lame sauce inside...

[GeekyTechyCool]

Yes I did find, bookmark, and subscribe to that thread

I'll be performing a flush and "deep clean" with the radiator cleaner I purchased which requires about 6 ours of drive time over a 3 day period or so. Then I'll be draining the system flushing it again and finally filling it with the proper antifreeze/water mixture.

 

[Bruces expo]

Yes I did find, bookmark, and subscribe to that thread

I'll be performing a flush and "deep clean" with the radiator cleaner I purchased which requires about 6 ours of drive time over a 3 day period or so. Then I'll be draining the system flushing it again and finally filling it with the proper antifreeze/water mixture.

sounds like a good plan , after It warms up some here I will be doing it to mine , I know mine is pretty dirty , but its cooling well , So I will leave it for the time being

 

[GeekyTechyCool]

I'm with ya there, I would have left it alone if I hadn't developed issues so quickly.

 

[Bruces expo]

same with mine , If mine were acting up I would go ahead and do the work , but its working , just dirtier than I prefer . but I have put around 45-50K miles on it without much repairs , so it works okay lol

 

[GeekyTechyCool]

Well I'll know as the week goes on but from my short drive today, and all the time it sat idling...I'm pretty confident that my cooling issue is fixed. Also seems to cool better as well (which is a bonus)

 

[Bruces expo]

Nice , Glad to hear its going well !

 

[GeekyTechyCool]

Nice , Glad to hear its going well !

Yeah I couldn't be happier with the outcome. I'll be sure to keep ya updated. The funny thing is it wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be in terms of "gunk" that came out of the system. Didn't even have to do the "deep clean"

 

[Bruces expo]

Yeah I couldn't be happier with the outcome. I'll be sure to keep ya updated. The funny thing is it wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be in terms of "gunk" that came out of the system. Didn't even have to do the "deep clean"

Thats always good , I will be doing mine just to make sure its cleaner than it is now , because it has that muddy water look to it . Must be a GA Red Clay thing lol .

 

[GeekyTechyCool]

Well so far so good, cooling better and no bubbling/overflowing to report.

I installed a M5OD bushing repair kit. And it has made a huge difference, but I feel like it's now TOOOO tight...I can't let go of the shift lever in neutral and have it bring itself to the middle of the shift pattern. It just stays where I leave it. Shifting is wonderful but a bit of resistance is apparent. I tightened the dust cap to the torque specs I could find online. Other than that I don't really know what to think, could it need to "wear" down the bushings to "seat" properly?

Any help or opinions are welcome.

 

[GeekyTechyCool]

Anyone?

 

[GeekyTechyCool]

Found answers to the shifter questions.

Went out for a trail run at Tahuya Park with the NW Explorer group. The little expo in stock form did really well.

Snapped a couple pics...

 

[littlebro294]

Does your 92' have locking hubs? if so what front end are you running and is it stock? i've been trying to find details on the 1st gen sports and what will fit under them, i have a pretty much bone stock 94' ford explorer sport with the 4.0 in it, just been asking around what everyone has and what has and hasnt worked for them, thanks.

 

[GeekyTechyCool]

Does your 92' have locking hubs? if so what front end are you running and is it stock? i've been trying to find details on the 1st gen sports and what will fit under them, i have a pretty much bone stock 94' ford explorer sport with the 4.0 in it, just been asking around what everyone has and what has and hasnt worked for them, thanks.

I do have manual hubs (in sig), and unless changed by someone else your explorer has a dana 35 TTb front end. There's tons of information out on the internets as well as this site.

 

[littlebro294]

ok, thanks, sadly mine is 2wd but i do have ttb, i kept hearing they were i beam, idk why lol, i just started getting into suspension of a vehicle so im still kinda learning all of the different types of axles and what not. I'd prefer to strait axle the front end rather than have an ifs type front end, thanks for telling me

 

[GeekyTechyCool]

If you've got a 2wd and you're looking to make it a 4wd, I'd just leave it alone and guy a 4wd truck (cheaper and easier in every way). The TTB in stock form will out perform the driving skill of most folks new to offroad. And if any time is spent on it (modifying it accordingly) it will out perform most SAS set ups for the same cost.

If you want to do something with your 2wd and still have fun there is always the pre-runner style rigs and with those your TTB is a MUCH better solution than a solid axle.

 

[jprentice94]

Hows the truck runnin know that you have had it a while

 

[GeekyTechyCool]

It's reliable, still having some stumbling when cold. Found the upper radiator hose leaking a little at the connection to the thermostat due to a loose hose clamp which I swore was damn tight when I finished the flush and such, it was a slow leak under pressure (heat cycles?). Other than that it's been great, finding some loose feeling up front somewhere. Gonna need to evaluate that once I put the lift on.

Honestly it's been a great little truck so far, but I'm searching for something a bit better on gas so we can park the Expo unless it's need as my office made a move north that doubled my commute each way. So needless to say it's been penny pinching around here while we figure something out. Did I mention my wife is four months pregnant with our first...lol and due to the "graphic nature" of her job she needed to leave. Well guess that puts all the burden on my income :-/

Luckily she applied for a temp position today that is perfect for what she needs and landed it! So we should be back on track in a few weeks (phew!)

 

[GeekyTechyCool]

Even with all the vehicles I've owned, and all the work I've done to them...I've never done a brake job on drum brakes. Well that is until today, the Explorer can now stop on it's own without squirting out brake fluid.

We had a "catastrophic" failure of the driver side rear wheel cylinder. Basically Ana came home from driving the thing and the brake pedal went to the floor. The cylinder was so bad it squirted fluid a good foot when I was testing for my problem.

It also looks like someone had done some recent work to one side but not both sides...so I fixed that with drum brake rebuilds on both sides. The Expo now has new brakes all the way around (since I did the fronts not to long ago). Would have loved not to drop the coin but it needed to be done :-/

 

[GeekyTechyCool]

Fix it once, it'll just keep breakin

Well onto my next problem...

Ever since I've owned the Expo it's had the lifter tap. It also has had a weird miss that comes around on initial starts in the morning or at cold idle. The motor will go through a little cycle it seems when it's cold. *start motor* valve noise *rpms settle from start* tick tick tick-thunk thunk thunk-quiet quiet quiet-tick tick tick-thunk thunk thunk-quiet quiet quiet. Now if you try and drive it right after startup it would hesitate and try to stall, but if you gave it 5 min or so (not even enough time to really get up to temp) it would run just fine with good power and no stalling or dieing.

Recently I got in the truck one morning and this problem was the same as always but I didn't have the time to let it sit for a few min. This has been the case before and usually 10 min or so into my drive it clears up and all is good. The morning in question it just kept running like crap the entire hour drive to work and the 1+ hour drive home that day. Since then I parked it until I could get some time to figure out what's wrong.

That time was today, I initially did the jumper across the test harness and a KOEO test with 111 *break* 118-15-7 as my results. Also performed a KOER test with 111 as my result.

I reset the computer, replaced the ECT with a new one, then start the truck and go for a drive. Same symptoms as before. Come back and do another code read this time during the fault dump I get 52-2 *break* 111

This leads me to take a look at my TPS, so I probe the TPS and monitor voltage. It's resting voltage is in spec .98 and it's WOT voltage is 4.5-4.6

At this point I've cleaned the MAF completely, I've cleaned the throttle body, I've checked all plugs and wires, given it a fresh oil change, when I did the tune up a couple months ago I tested the coil back (within spec), and I've changed the Temp Sensor (ECU sensor and Gauge sensor since my gauge was acting up a while back)

I'm a little worse for wear mentally after all this and could really use some help, I can post a video tomorrow of the running condition if that would help but I'm thinking this is a pretty common sound/condition.

 

[FR-425]

So, you've got a high voltage fault - engine temp. A low voltage fault - MAF.

And a "trans not in park or neutral during test" fault.

I'm thinking bad ground, or the PCM is toast (reference voltage is to low or is wandering around)

I'd have a look at the connection at the PCM first. Give it a good look and cleaning.

Really soggy up there in the great north west, may be corroded.

Random, unrelated codes often mean - Bad PCM