99 - Fuse #11 blown, no running lights, fogs, or dash lights | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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99 - Fuse #11 blown, no running lights, fogs, or dash lights

The diagram doesn't show the dimmer module for the instruments or the dimmer relay. The headlamp circuit looks accurate. The dimmer switch shown is for high/low beams not instrument light dimming.

Well now I'm really confused. I'm probably making a trip to the junkyard to see if I can't find an instrument dimmer and a headlight switch for cheap, hopefully I can and hopefully that will be enough to fix this.
 



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If you have no daytime running lights, Im pretty sure you are supposed to. Could mean your DRL module is already doinked but now is actually causing a problem. I could be barking up the wrong tree but I've owned 3 explorers and the DRL module has messed up on all 3 ... Canadian trucks. But if fuse 11 has nothing to do with the headlights or daytimes than I guess that my DRL advice is invalid.
 






If you have no daytime running lights, Im pretty sure you are supposed to. Could mean your DRL module is already doinked but now is actually causing a problem. I could be barking up the wrong tree but I've owned 3 explorers and the DRL module has messed up on all 3 ... Canadian trucks. But if fuse 11 has nothing to do with the headlights or daytimes than I guess that my DRL advice is invalid.

I've had this truck for 7 years and have never had DRLs but I'll give that area a look anyway. Probably going to the junkyard tomorrow to see if I can take a $25 gamble on a headlight switch and instrument dimmer switch, assuming I can find them.
 






Make sure to let us know when you get er fixed up what the problem was :)
 












I might have just had a small breakthrough:

With the instrument dimmer removed and the headlight switch installed, fuse #11 still blows.

Any opinions? It's $30 brand new so I think it's worth a gamble, and it would save me a 15 degree trip to the junkyard.
 






My '97 2WD EB did not have that plug and socket; the replacement panel I got from the JY did have it. I had to break it out to use that replacement panel in my vehicle, as there was part of the metal bracket in the way.
 












You still haven't eliminated the GEM as the source for the short. Disconnect the GEM and see if the fuse still blows before spending $30 on a new light switch.

Where and what is the GEM?

edit: is this accurate? http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66557

edit 2: here is a video, this is the best angle I could get with where my truck is parked. Might take a few minutes for youtube to process the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0P4N27MJCak&feature=youtu.be

You can see the lights "fizzle" out and you can hear the fuse pop.
 






I'm assuming this is the GEM, picture is sideways
http://imgur.com/Fjjmcb8
OOAnbsfl.jpg


Do I just unplug everything?
 






Ok. I unplugged the 3 plugs on the side of the GEM but could not unplug the one on the bottom. The fuse still blew. Does the one on the bottom come out like the rest or is there some trick? Does it even matter now?

For anyone wondering I am running back and forth between my driveway and my computer so this information is nearly real-time, if all these updates seem to be coming quick.
 












Is C280 the one at the top? I can't get in there to really see if it has a label or anything. Looks like 4 unused spots. It's the one that appears to be touching the barcode that I am thinking is c280.
98ttmtUl.jpg


edit: after closer inspection zooming in on the picture, it looks like the empty spots are the ones you indicated.
 






No drawings to refer to

I don't have any drawings of the GEM to refer to. I only have the wiring diagrams.
C281 is a 16 pin connector with only 7 pins used
C282 is a 22 pin connector with 5 pins not used
C283 is a 18 pin connector with 4 pins not used
C280 is a 26 pin connector with 4 pins not used. 4 pins are offset from most of the pins at one end. 6 pins are offset from most of the pins at the other end. Pin 1 at one end is DB/OG. Pin 14 at same end is BK/WH. Pin 13 at the other end is LB/OG. Pin 26 at that same other end is BK/WH.

Edit: I was able to match enough colors shown in your photo to confirm that the connector that is still connected is C280.
 






here is a link to the full size picture. it does look like this one is c280. I counted 13 slots on one side and it appears that the bottom 4 are offset. It is not currently plugged in, maybe it just looks like it is.
http://i.imgur.com/igMUKTQ.jpg
 












ohmmeter?

Do you have an ohmmeter? If so, you can test the light switch with the connector disconnected.

For all switch positions (Off, Park, Head) the resistance should be open (infinite) between pins 6 & 5, between pins 6 & 8, between pins 5 & 8, between pins 2 & 3, between pins 2 & 4, between pins 2 & 9, between pins 2 & 7, between pins 3 & 4, between pins 3 & 9, and between pins 3 & 7.

For switch position Off: open between pins 6 & 2, open between pins 5 & 3, short between pins 8 & 4.

For switch position Park: open between pins 6 & 2, short between pins 5 & 3, short between pins 8 & 9.

For switch position Head: short between pins 6 & 2, short between pins 5 & 3, short between pins 8 & 9.

I doubt that your problem is the light switch but I could be wrong.
 






I do have an ohmmeter (multimeter? got it free at harbor freight a long time ago) but I'm not sure how to use it. Would I be poking inside the plug itself (that the wires are attached to) or poking at the headlight switch prongs? If something doesn't match the open/short that you just listed, what would be the problem then? A relay?

On a different note, I went to two Autozones and they both had switches that did not fit my plug. The "catch" that the harness plug snaps underneath was bigger than the stock unit and I could not get either new switch to fully plug in. The latch wouldn't engage, if that makes sense. Any idea what's up with that?


I doubt that your problem is the light switch but I could be wrong.

What makes you doubt that it is the headlight switch? Seems like that's the only thing left, unless a relay is failing, but you said that blowing fuses after a few seconds is not the normal way they go.
 






testing the light switch

You test the light switch with the connector disconnected. The contacts on the switch should be numbered. You press the meter probes to the contacts according to my previous post. The polarity (red or black) of the probes doesn't matter.

The reason I doubt the switch is the problem is because it has no access to ground except for thru the internal illumination. Also, for the three poles in the switch only one pole is connected to fuse 11 - the path to the park lamp relay for the dimmer module control of the instrument lights. I guess the relay could be bad. I would probably try to switch the park lamp relay with the battery saver relay or the dimmer relay.
 



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I was digging around some more today and found what looks to be a relay just "hanging around." So, any idea what this is for? Is the integrated silver bracket a ground? It looks like it's definitely supposed to bolt somewhere but I have no idea where. This is on the underside of the dash, basically straight under the headlight switch and it looks like it might share some of the switch's wiring.
OVh3XCfl.jpg


I don't really have the expertise to be testing switches (no idea how to use the multimeter), so I'm going to get some help hopefully by the weekend if I don't fix it some other way first.
 






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