Best place to get OEM spark plug wire set for my 03 4.6L? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Best place to get OEM spark plug wire set for my 03 4.6L?

JarvisB

Well-Known Member
Joined
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City, State
Washington, DC
Year, Model & Trim Level
2014 Explorer Sport
Good evening explorerforum,

I searched everywhere and I had hard time finding an OEM set of spark plug wire for my 2003 Explorer with 4.6L V8 engine. Any idea why am I experiencing difficulties in locating a set?

I am looking for an replacement OEM set, Motorcraft brand. I am doing a tune up on my 03, which rolled over 100k miles recently. I am looking to replace my spark plugs, wires, and the fuel filter. The explorer is running strong other than occasional stumble at idle when it drops to 600 RPM.

Also, I have minor valve cover leaks on both sides - I will be replacing the gasket with a fel pro gasket. Found one off eBay for $24 shipped. Anyone recommend against Fel Pro gaskets?

Thanks in advance!
 



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You do not need spark plug wires because there are none. There are coils over plugs (COP). Your vehicle has individual coils over each plugs. However, when removing the coils you may tear a few of the boots. Boots can be purchased at Autozone and are sold individually.

Clean your IAC and check the elbow hose at the base of the throttle body for holes for your idle issue. SyberTiger did a writeup awhile back on the hose.
 






There's a rubber elbow on the pcv hose? I believe, drivers side. It cracks, forget which year they went away from it. 04 doesn't have it.
Remove the air intake hose from the Throttle Body. Take a rag and after opening the valve, wipe away the crud. Easiest first step in the idle issue.
Coil over plugs have a boot from the coil to the plug. If you swap plugs, I'd put on new boots.
Remember, OE is simply the lowest bidder that got the job to produce the parts.
Go after market and don't buy the value line.
 






Thanks guys for the advice. I will give it a look tomorrow afternoon. I have been too busy with work/overtime.

I would definitely like to swap the coil over plugs while I swap the spark plugs. I never saw the need to go aftermarket other than OEM because those stuff works well together, but I am open to suggestions. Since I am having difficult time finding motorcraft, I am considering the Bosch ones from Advance Auto, but there seems to be a few options. Not clear on which one I should get for my application. 4.6L V8. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/PartSearchCmd?storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&pageId=partTypeList&suggestion=&actionSrc=Form&langId=-1&searchTerm=spark+plug+wire+set&vehicleIdSearch=172460&searchedFrom=header

Thanks again guys!
 






The spark plugs you need are motorcraft AGSF-32P-M. You can find starting around $3 each online
 






Thanks guys for the advice. I will give it a look tomorrow afternoon. I have been too busy with work/overtime.

I would definitely like to swap the coil over plugs while I swap the spark plugs. I never saw the need to go aftermarket other than OEM because those stuff works well together, but I am open to suggestions. Since I am having difficult time finding motorcraft, I am considering the Bosch ones from Advance Auto, but there seems to be a few options. Not clear on which one I should get for my application. 4.6L V8. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/PartSearchCmd?storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&pageId=partTypeList&suggestion=&actionSrc=Form&langId=-1&searchTerm=spark+plug+wire+set&vehicleIdSearch=172460&searchedFrom=header

Thanks again guys!

Unless I'm mistaken, Advance carries the COP and the plug.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...il-motorcraft_5970028-p?searchTerm=motorcraft
 






rockauto.com
Spark Plug - MOTORCRAFT Part # SP493 (AGSF32PM) $2.48 each
Ignition Coil - MOTORCRAFT Part # DG508 $41.99 each
Spark Plug (Coil-On-Plug) Boot - MOTORCRAFT Part # WR6128 $5.92 each (Coil Wire Not Included)

Fuel Filter - MOTORCRAFT Part # FG1036 $15.44 OR WIX Part # 33243 $10.12

Valve Cover Gaskets FEL-PRO Part # VS50564R $26.79
...Fel-Pro gaskets are great.

IMO. No reason to change a COP's unless they have failed and stick with Motorcraft spark plugs.

Good advice to clean the I.A.C. (Idle Air Control valve) , Throttle Body, and check for vacuum leaks to help with your idle.

Here is a discount code good for 5% off on checkout 1997483617682788 good through April 6th 2014

...again, your vehicle does not have a "spark plug wire set";)
 






^^ You guys rock!

I was not looking to buy the coils itself. I just wanted to replace the wires/boots, but my brother and most of you advised against replacing the boots so I have decided that I will leave them alone unless I see something during the process.

I just purchased the gasket, spark plugs, and the fuel filter. Looks like I am set for the basic tune up.

For the elbow, IAC, and throttle body cleaning. I will have to tackle them this weekend considering I am being slammed with overtime at work. I hope they will alleviate my idle problem although it is not that serious. I have not noticed this as much sofar as it did get warmer around here ( not anymore now).

Now here is a slight bad news, I noticed starting last weekend that my explorer shakes pretty good at 70-80 MPH. I drove it to work today and I can verify that the problem definitely is there. I started to notice it last weekend and when I had to transport a few long poles last weekend that had to rest on my dash; I immediately noticed that when I am going 70-80 MPH, the pole is shaking because the dash is.

This is baffling considering I replaced all shocks, springs, cambers, and ball joints last summer. I also got it aligned after I performed the work. Couple of weeks ago I got brand new Goodyear Fortera Tires on them and got them all balanced. I should state that the Explorer drives straight, but shakes at 70-80. It is pretty much nonexistent at lower speeds like 40-50 or below.

As soon as I got home, I pulled the jack out of garage and lifted the expo up on both sides. I checked out the play in wheel bearings and I can tell you they all seem solid to me. I tried pushing/pulling upwards/downwards on all of them they dont have any play. I end up moving the vehicle when trying harder lol.

My brother suggested U joint bearing or driveshaft bearing? Any other suggestions? Hope this is the last thing I will have to worry about for a while :D
 






I have cleaned the TB and IAC. There is no apparent vaccumm leak either. Idle seems to be ok now. Will report back if I catch it fluctating again. I have replaced the spark plugs as well and the truck seems to be running slightly better.

For the shake, I am happy to report that it was just the tire balancing issue. It went away after I went back to my tire shop for rebalancing.

I will tackle the valve cover gaskets when time is good. (waiting for warmer weather :))
 






Having just gone thru this with my '03 V8, I'm pretty sure you have a bad coil. It may or may not throw a CEL code. The hard part is figuring out which one is causing it to misfire on one cylinder. The symptoms are just as you describe: rough idle and hesitation when cruising or slightly accelerating at fwy speeds. Heavy acceleration and street driving will feel normal. One way to find it is to buy one new coil (DG-508) and swap them one at a time till the problem is resolved. Also, have mechanic check the computer... there might be a trouble code even if light is not currently on. One coil runs about $50-60 ea. retail or $15 for aftermarket on Amazon. Can also get Accel for about $25- or Motorcraft for $43- each. I have not gotten definitive info on OEM v. aftermarket (as they are mostly made in China anyway). Should be DIY or minimal charge by mechanic. I fixed my problem but I'm considering changing them all since I've got 150k miles on mine. Full set would run $60- for aftermarket, $160 for Accel, $250 for Motorcraft.

Hope that helps.
 






Having just gone thru this with my '03 V8, I'm pretty sure you have a bad coil. It may or may not throw a CEL code. The hard part is figuring out which one is causing it to misfire on one cylinder. The symptoms are just as you describe: rough idle and hesitation when cruising or slightly accelerating at fwy speeds. Heavy acceleration and street driving will feel normal. One way to find it is to buy one new coil (DG-508) and swap them one at a time till the problem is resolved. Also, have mechanic check the computer... there might be a trouble code even if light is not currently on. One coil runs about $50-60 ea. retail or $15 for aftermarket on Amazon. Can also get Accel for about $25- or Motorcraft for $43- each. I have not gotten definitive info on OEM v. aftermarket (as they are mostly made in China anyway). Should be DIY or minimal charge by mechanic. I fixed my problem but I'm considering changing them all since I've got 150k miles on mine. Full set would run $60- for aftermarket, $160 for Accel, $250 for Motorcraft.

Hope that helps.

Thank you for chiming in.

I sure am leaving the option of replacing the coils open. I should clarify, the small hesitation occurs at idle/park only. It performs beautifully once i am on the gas. No hesitation on highways.

if the rough idle comes back then i will try the coils but sofar it is good although I dont drive it whole lot.

Thanks!
 






^^ You guys rock!

Now here is a slight bad news, I noticed starting last weekend that my explorer shakes pretty good at 70-80 MPH. I drove it to work today and I can verify that the problem definitely is there. I started to notice it last weekend and when I had to transport a few long poles last weekend that had to rest on my dash; I immediately noticed that when I am going 70-80 MPH, the pole is shaking because the dash is.

This is baffling considering I replaced all shocks, springs, cambers, and ball joints last summer. I also got it aligned after I performed the work. Couple of weeks ago I got brand new Goodyear Fortera Tires on them and got them all balanced. I should state that the Explorer drives straight, but shakes at 70-80. It is pretty much nonexistent at lower speeds like 40-50 or below.

Hope this is the last thing I will have to worry about for a while :D
Does your dealer offer road force balance? I had similar issues. I had been fighting vibration issues that I thought were drive line related. Bearings were good. Removed front and rear drive shafts, u-joints ok. General consensus was tire related even though has been balanced & rotated several times. I took back to tire place and told them tires were defective. They road force balanced the tires which they didn't do originally. 2 tires were in spec and 2 were way out of spec . One of the 2 was easy to fix. 2nd tire thought might have been defective. They were able to finally get it to pass. Driving experience is night and day different. Definitely need to take a look at road force balance.
 






Does your dealer offer road force balance? I had similar issues. I had been fighting vibration issues that I thought were drive line related. Bearings were good. Removed front and rear drive shafts, u-joints ok. General consensus was tire related even though has been balanced & rotated several times. I took back to tire place and told them tires were defective. They road force balanced the tires which they didn't do originally. 2 tires were in spec and 2 were way out of spec . One of the 2 was easy to fix. 2nd tire thought might have been defective. They were able to finally get it to pass. Driving experience is night and day different. Definitely need to take a look at road force balance.

Interesting. I should ask about Road Force balance - The issue was alleviated after I took it back there. They said one of the tires was off.

It is a local shop, not a dealership though.
 






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