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1997 Explorer with Dealer-Installed Alarm

dta74

Elite Explorer
Joined
September 12, 2009
Messages
17
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0
City, State
Durham, NC
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 XLT, 97 XL
I know this has been discussed to death, but I have yet to see pictures, so here goes with another of my long-winded posts. Links to pictures at end of post. While I realize that this is technically a guide on how to steal an alarm-enabled vehicle, the key would need to be present to disable the alarm.

I finally lost the last of the 2 remote key fobs that came with the Explorer (about 3 weeks after realizing I should find a replacement, just in case). Of course, about an hour after getting to work (not to mention 30 minutes after it got dark and started a downpour), someone comes in to tell me my alarm is going off, at which point I realize the remote is NOT in my pocket and is nowhere to be found - the key-ring loop had long since broken off. Fast forward to the next day, I was able to find the "disable" button under the dash: insert key, turn to "on," reach under dash, press and hold button for a second until gauge cluster lights blink and alarm chirps. Car will start and LED indicator on dash stops blinking. Alarm still normally engages LED indicator and enables starter interrupt a few minutes after shutting off the ignition - I just can't turn on the alarm (doors, hood, shock sensor).

Later that day, I decide to tear out the lower section of the dash, if only to relocate the "disable" button - the dealer chose to install it on a metal bracket under the knee panel, just above the gas pedal.

First, remove the plastic lower dash cover - unscrew 2 hex-head bolts along the lower edge.

Second, remove the inner metal cover - unscrew 6 hex-head bolts. 2 bolts in the middle of the lower edge of the metal cover also hold up the hood release. Of course, each cover uses bolts with different size hex heads.

You should see 2 black boxes zip-tied somewhere behind the metal panel - mine were both to the right of the steering column. The main box (black, about the size of an extra-thick deck of cards - blue label reads "Ford Vehicle Security System) was located up inside the dash, zip-tied to around the mounting points for the steering column. The smaller shock-sensor box with the white sensitivity knob was mounted to a support bracket between the gas pedal and the ashtray.

The small shock-sensor box has a small connector with a 4-wire bundle that runs to the main box. This I left alone. Curiously, the rear hatch window was NOT wired to the alarm - I can open the window (but not the entire liftgate) and crawl inside w/o setting off the alarm. Slamming the glass closed will set off the shock sensor.

The main box with the blue label (which I eventually removed, disassembled, photographed and replaced) has a row of connectors along one edge. With the label upright and facing you, from left to right: shock sensor connector, LED indicator connector, main connector, starter interrupt connector. There is a solo white wire with a black stripe, about 6 inches long, just hanging from the main box - this is the antenna for the remote control receiver inside the box.

Unplugging and replugging the main connector (22 conductors) will set off the alarm with a siren/chirping alert, which is similar to what an ambulance or police car (around here, at least) will use when going thru an intersection. This can be silenced by using the ignition key/disable button sequence listed above).

Take note of the starter interrupt connector - the white connector on the right side with 2 wires: red/blue stripe and solid red. This is essentially an extension of the starter wire from inside the steering column to the engine compartment. I pulled this connector from the main box, jumpered it with a piece of buss wire and that was it.

The system still engages the starter disable function after a few minutes and the LED indicator still blinks and it can still be disabled using the key and the disable button. However, since the starter wires have been essentially disconnected from the alarm controller and hardwired, they aren't affected by the alarm. Also, the blinking LED indicator should deter any wanna-be thieves from trying to steal/break into the car - not like there's anything worth stealing...

Here's the entire set of photos, sorry no pics of the metal or plastic lower dash covers:
https://plus.google.com/photos/1128...s/5770709484441092401?authkey=CPrk5YfL0rDWmwE

Here's an overall view of the mess under the dash. The black cable hanging down with the metal bracket at the end is the hood release. Note the black box with the blue label to the right of the steering column. The main connector has been disconnected in this picture. The shock sensor box is not visible from this angle, but is located behind the main lower cross member, where it meets the ashtray trim:
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/...1/5770709482331479650?authkey=CPrk5YfL0rDWmwE

Here's a closeup view of the main alarm box. Note the row of connectors and one of the zip ties holding it in place:
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/...1/5770709524480849410?authkey=CPrk5YfL0rDWmwE

The main box, removed:
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/...1/5770709543927485474?authkey=CPrk5YfL0rDWmwE

The underside of the main box, label explaining connectors:
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/...1/5770709580795565746?authkey=CPrk5YfL0rDWmwE

The guts, as viewed from the label side. The 6 black rectangles are relays for various function. The smaller daughter card is the remote receiver:
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/...1/5770709645827132962?authkey=CPrk5YfL0rDWmwE

The guts, remote receiver daughter card removed:
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/...1/5770709685233782562?authkey=CPrk5YfL0rDWmwE

The remote receiver daughter card, note white/black stripe antenna wire:
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/...1/5770709729200613154?authkey=CPrk5YfL0rDWmwE

The starter interrupt connector unplugged and jumpered - I just left it hanging under the dash:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/newthread.php?do=newthread&f=100
 



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Text on the label, as related to the large white connector (sorry, the text for #17 is damaged, can't read last word):

1 org/blk - parking light polarity
2 org - parking light output
3 red/blk - dome light polarity
4 blk - dome light output
5 blk/white - trunk polarity
6 brown - disarm button
7 ylw - neg door trigger
8 ylw - neg door trigger
9 dk grn - factory disarm
10 pink - door lock polarity
11 wht - ground
12 pur - trunk output
13 ylw - door lock motor
14 pnk/ylw - door lock switch
15 lt grn - door unlock motor
16 pnk/grn door unlock switch
17 tan - ignition switched ???
18 lt grn - LED output
19 blue - pos ? door trigger (+/4)
20 bkl/red - siren output
21 pnk - aux/double unlock
22 blk/white (+12v con)
 












Thank you very much for the pictures--this is the same alarm I'm trying to disable on my 94 Explorer--the plugs are moved around but the print is exactly the same--I'm going out to try the jumper now
 






Jumped the wires at the plug going into the box and pulled one of 2 fuses wired into wiring harness and truck started and siren stopped--I thin k my problems are solved THANK YOU
 






Does anyone know if I can remove all the plugs in the main box now that I have connected the red to the red/blue and pulled the siren fuse--would like to throw the piece of junk into the trash
 






Does anyone know if I can remove all the plugs in the main box now that I have connected the red to the red/blue and pulled the siren fuse--would like to throw the piece of junk into the trash

You could try it, the worst that could happen is that the truck won't start, it's possible it could disable the PATS System, which is what your keyless entry fob communicates to. If it does, just plug it back in, I've unplugged mine before with no issues, other than it not starting, but I didn't have anything jumped on the plugs like you do. I was able to plug it back in and start the truck.
 






I just soldered the starter wiring back together--I didn't even know about the alarm until I took off the steering wheel--the person I bought it from didn't mention the alarm and gave me nothing but keys--it had a blinking light and a button I had to push each time to start it but the siren only went off when I re-connected the battery with the steering wheel off
 






I'm hoping that this could be answered here. On my 92 explorer, if I leave the doors unlocked, the alarm will arm itself after a few seconds. I have to hit the "unlock" button on my fob to deactivate the alarm and be able to start the engine. If I perform the jump method as described above, will I be able to start the engine without the problem I am having?
 






I am in a real pickle now. I followed the jump method as described above for the starter wires. that worked like gold. the minute i started the engine, the alarm went off. I found two blue fuses going to the alarm box. one seemed to kill power to the door locks (i can't use my key fob to unlock and lock the doors), and the other disabled the whole system (alarm and doors). How can I get my doors working again while still having the alarm disabled?
 






Take out the fuse for the alarm horn to kill sound but unless someone knows which wire fixes the locks most of the alarm wires seem to be involved in the door lock system--I just use the key since I was not given the key-chain fob anyway
Mine had a fuse next to the alarm horn under the hood
 






I looked under the hood. Looks like I don't have a fuse going to the alarm horn. could i maybe cut the two wires on the accessory harness that are labled "siren"?
 






I'm facing an issue with the alarm that you didn't address. I still have one functioning factory key fob, and bought two new generic ones from Amazon. Following the instructions in the Sport Trac owners manual I've successfully programmed the two new key fobs to operate the power locks, but they do NOT arm/disarm the alarm system.

How do I program the new key fobs to work with the alarm system? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 






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