What is this?? Shroud near shock. PIC included

[JHG120]

Hey All,
Tried to search, but don't know what it is that I'm searching for. I've noticed that on speed bumps I hear some squeaking. Looked around tire and noticed both front pieces of this are falling apart. Sprayed some WD-40 which took away the squeak for a week, but back again.

So, what am I looking at. Pics included.

Thanks.

 

[swshawaii]

Replacing Upper Ball Joints on a 3rd Gen 4x4 [Pictures]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=249135

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1430688,parttype,10070

 

[Number4]

Welcome to the plague of Explorers.

Replace the whole control arm. Don't do just the balljoints. There is very little steel holding the pressed joint and it wasn't designed to be removed and repressed like other knuckles/control arms are.

 

[pet575]

Disagree on this. Pressed mine out/in 75K ago and have had no issues.

 

[Number4]

Disagree on this. Pressed mine out/in 75K ago and have had no issues.

Didn't say it wouldn't work, just that it's not a good idea. You can use oversized as well. Either way, the metal lip you are relying on is small and not ment to be resized.

I prefer peace of mind. If the ball joint ends up slipping out, then you've got to do the arm anyway. At least with the whole arm, it's all under warranty.

 

[pet575]

I didn't resize anything. The replacement joint was the same size as the stock one. It was press in, press out and nothing changed on the arm. I guess if you have the extra money the new arm is nice and all.

 

[Number4]

The small metal lip that holds the ball joint is smaller in diameter than the ball joint. When ford had the original one pressed in, the metal was forced to expand to accommodate the balljoint. The resistance in this expansion is what holds the ball joint in place. When you remove the ball joint, the metal doesn't reduce to its original size. So when you put a new one in, you don't have the original hold strength, which means it could work its way out. Now, wether or not the new one states oversized or not, it may be anyway. If it is, then it again is resizing the small metal lip. This would make for a weaker lip as it wasn't intended to be twice resized, as well, the metal is now older and less pliable.

Again, comes down to peace of mind. Depending on how one drives, or how straight the replacement joint went in, it may work or may become a problem.

"Fix Or Repair Daily" though, that's our motto.

 

[JHG120]

Thanks for the input guys. I'm not sure I could do this myself, so just called local dealership who quoted $600 for parts and labor. Does that sound about right?

 

[esclamada]

you can buy both left and right control arms with ball joints for less than $200.

find a shop that would install it for you (mevotech is $160 for both online plus an hour of labor which may total right close in the $300). dealership charges are outrageous for a simple job or part.

some shops might consider just replacing the ball joints but I think the cost difference is minimal, a moog ball joint cost $50-60$ while a complete control arm is $80-$90 (mevotech). Labor will be the same since this can be done in an hour.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...07655339.20344.110528882348605&type=3&theater


-----------------------------------------------------------
MY MOUNTY
http://www.facebook.com/diyfordexplorer/photos_albums

 

[Number4]

Not sure on dealer parts, but assume $150 - $180 ea (aftermarket $80 - $90) on complete arms.
1.8 hours for doing both sides at once (shop rate $90? What's the dealers shop rate?) is $162. Plus an alignment at around $70.
Would be $592.

So a non dealer repair shop would be around $432.
The OE parts failed originally and early on some of the Ex's.
I'd be inclined to go aftermarket myself.

 

[JHG120]

Hmmm, thanks again for the input. It's time to look around before the dealership route. If I buy the parts myself, can you suggest which one to buy? I have $200 credit at rock auto so will buy entire arm, but there are alot of choices. Some $80 all the way to $200.

 

[Donystoy]

When I replaced my upper ball joints last year the replacements came with a large spring "C clip" that you installed in a groove in the bottom of the joint. This was to eliminate the chance of it coming out. I replaced mine just because the rubber boots were shot and I was doing other front end work.

 

[Number4]

Honestly, there's probably at best two manufacturers. They're all from China. From RA, I'd go with the Moog or Dorman. But again, they may all come from the same manufacturer.

Acdelco and motorcraft are billing an extra penny or so for the name.

 

[pet575]

JHG if you can change brake pads you can do the full arm replacement. It really is pretty simple.

 

[JHG120]

I just looked through the "how to," and honestly didn't seem too simple. I also noticed some of the images didn't show up. I'd like to save money and try, but the "press tool" sounds iffy.

 

[JoshMcMadMac]

I just looked through the "how to," and honestly didn't seem too simple. I also noticed some of the images didn't show up. I'd like to save money and try, but the "press tool" sounds iffy.

I think the "how-to" makes it more difficult than it needs to be. ~$60 gets you two new Moog ball joints, then rent the press from your local parts store. There is no need to remove the control arm to press them out, I got them out just fine with it still installed. Plus, removing it will require an alignment, which is going to be another $60-100 depending on where you go.

 

[Number4]

The backs are a different setup, but to JMMM's point, I pressed the back uppers out and back in while on the car. Saves time and alignment.

You can do it! Or don't, what ever you are comfortable with. If you've not done brake jobs and such, you may hold off. I'm usually not confident when taking on new projects, but if someone else can do it, so can you. Just take your time and give yourself time. I also have three cars, so I have back ups, especially for chasing parts I needed.

 

[2Trux]

I just looked through the "how to," and honestly didn't seem too simple. I also noticed some of the images didn't show up. I'd like to save money and try, but the "press tool" sounds iffy.

If you buy the complete arm you will not need the press tool. It's reduced to removing the nut on the ball joint, popping it loose, removing the 2 nuts on the arm, remove the arm, install new arm. A pretty simple operation. Don't forget to get the alignment done.

 

[pet575]

THIS^^^^ is what I was referring to. If you but the arm with the new ball joint in it, no pressing of anything is required.

 

[JHG120]

Ok, I think I can do this. After I'm done, I assume it's ok to drive the car to get the alignment done?? I figure as much.

I will tackle this over the weekend. Wish me luck.