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5R55W Fluid Fill

Ok. So all other parts of plan look good?
Hand tighten pan also ok?
Any Mercon V fluid ok?

Thanks for quick response!!!

Edit: Do I need to lift entire truck level, or just front or back?
 



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Thanks for the info. Wasn't sure if it had to be running or not. This was not one of fords better ideas, but understand other auto makers are doing it also.
 






Thank you so much. I would have never figured it out on my own. The information was very informative. Got the job done in no time.
 






bringing up this old thread if you dont mind. Wondering if a gear lube pump from my old Johnson 9.9HP is sufficient enough to use to fill ATF into the transmission with a brass 1/8th NPT with 1/4 hose. it fits nicely on quart bottles of course and has a 1.4 inch hose. surely it has the pressure of some of the valvoline hand pumps ive seen.

any problem with grabbing the 1/8 NPT from hardware or plumbing store?

Sorry, its my first time with the 3rd Gen V6 and 5R55S

2004 Merc V6 132K

thanks
 






Using a low cost hand siphoning pump is about the next best way to remove some ATF, versus dropping the pan. But remember that there is a bunch of fluid in the system, a good 12 quarts or more. Siphoning will only remove a small amount, maybe 4-5 quarts, depending on how patient you are to wait a long time and siphon a little more.

The pan area of a trans will only let out a few quarts, the torque converter will hold about four and not let it go without a drain plug in it, or half if you drop the valve body.

Dropping the VB will allow several more quarts out of the case and TC, fluid which will not come out without dropping the VB.

So if the fluid looks perfect you can be okay with just removing a few quarts every so often. But if the fluid seems poor or you want it all out, the pan has to come off and you hope to also find a drain plug in the torque converter.
 






Using a low cost hand siphoning pump is about the next best way to remove some ATF, versus dropping the pan. But remember that there is a bunch of fluid in the system, a good 12 quarts or more. Siphoning will only remove a small amount, maybe 4-5 quarts, depending on how patient you are to wait a long time and siphon a little more.

The pan area of a trans will only let out a few quarts, the torque converter will hold about four and not let it go without a drain plug in it, or half if you drop the valve body.

Dropping the VB will allow several more quarts out of the case and TC, fluid which will not come out without dropping the VB.

So if the fluid looks perfect you can be okay with just removing a few quarts every so often. But if the fluid seems poor or you want it all out, the pan has to come off and you hope to also find a drain plug in the torque converter.

thanks for this answer but i am wondering if the pump is enough to get ATF INTO the system, which i believe after reviewing valvolines pumpers as well as other products, i will be pumping about 1 to 1.5 oz a pump, so at 32 oz a quart i may just splurge for a bigger one.

fluid is clean. front seal and/or pump may be leaking unless it just puked through the bell housing. ran a scan. fluid temp at 158F standing still and 162F at 30MPH. everything electrical looks good. hmmpf.. front seal and TC troubles I am feeling.
 






That pump you mentioned should work fine for that usage, for a little amount like 1-3 quarts. It would get very tiring to do a lot more.

Once you get comfortable with being able to check and set the fluid level, you might consider changing more of the fluid or doing the filter, or more serious dropping the VB to replace the solenoids and/or EPC. I gather that model requires doing all solenoids as one unit(more expensive), but at higher mileage it's good maintenance.

Consider too, an additive like Lubegard. You want to be able to just deal with fluids and filters, but even the solenoids/EPC, instead of being forced to spend big money on rebuilding. Regards,
 






That pump you mentioned should work fine for that usage, for a little amount like 1-3 quarts. It would get very tiring to do a lot more.

Once you get comfortable with being able to check and set the fluid level, you might consider changing more of the fluid or doing the filter, or more serious dropping the VB to replace the solenoids and/or EPC. I gather that model requires doing all solenoids as one unit(more expensive), but at higher mileage it's good maintenance.

Consider too, an additive like Lubegard. You want to be able to just deal with fluids and filters, but even the solenoids/EPC, instead of being forced to spend big money on rebuilding. Regards,


just saw this and funny, after a few hours of research last night I came to the same conclusion and couldve just taken your advice. lol

I am going to check the level, throw some Mercon V and some Lubegard red or platinum and drive it for a while before taking it on a 2 hour ride to my friends shop and having him throw her around and find out whats going on while pulling both pans and VC's to check out the cassettes on the chains and a VB job, but..

I think my rattle was part lashes, part TC rattle? Rislone took away the lash noise in 60 miles, and the rattle seems to be come from the TC.. I am guessing the seal or someone put a junkyard TC in there, or its just time. I do see signs of someone being up in there, but is very minimal. just the bolts for the tranny and oil drain pan. thats why it has me thinking.

if this was not transmission puke from the vent through the bellhousing (i am trying to get up there but even just with my hand I cant tell whats going on.), could it be possible its from the TC dripping through? or inertia seeping it out ?

anyway this Mounty somehow infected my 99 Mounty V8 and now I have a rear main seal leakage issue... i think... i hope...lol.. this old girl has been great to me. I will show her more love if she can hang on!
 






Watch for 2-3 shift flares, if that's happening it's the 3rd gear band servo, not the solenoids. The servo goes in through the side of the case, i believe the trans has to come out to drill and sleeve the servo bore and replace the servo
 






Watch for 2-3 shift flares, if that's happening it's the 3rd gear band servo, not the solenoids. The servo goes in through the side of the case, i believe the trans has to come out to drill and sleeve the servo bore and replace the servo

would this cause fluid to find its way out of the bellhousing somewhere? I do think there was some flare, but i also think they overfilled it too. the wife says it drives nice i think it does too but i do think the RPM's are a bit high and idle a little rough but there are still Motorcraft plugs and wires on it. previous owner had it for only 3000K miles and changed the oil once. is motorcraft plugs OEM on these?

I am letting the wife put some city driving stress on the car right now to ascertain if there is residual ATF or new leakage. Right now I cannot tell but have been keeping my eye on it.

thing is, the car doesnt get a bunch of driving on it daily so i need it for the day. I will grab it cold at 630AM tomorrow morning and check out the levels and add lubegard. I am also scared whoever had this before the guy i bought it from used cheap ATF, hence my real reason for the lubegard, any other benefit I will take until the real problem rears its head more. thanks
 






Yeah oem plugs only please. Check your coil boots over the plugs too, a Lil dielectric grease on the boots at the plug helps a lot. I have a couple sets of coils if you need some. I would take the positive battery terminal off, jump the positive cable to ground to reset the pcm and take it for a nice steady drive. See this for pcm reset https://youtu.be/hZAsoqmqhdM
 






Yeah oem plugs only please. Check your coil boots over the plugs too, a Lil dielectric grease on the boots at the plug helps a lot. I have a couple sets of coils if you need some. I would take the positive battery terminal off, jump the positive cable to ground to reset the pcm and take it for a nice steady drive. See this for pcm reset https://youtu.be/hZAsoqmqhdM


I have an ELM327 that can reset codes, now I want to get rid of the P1000-FF to see what kind of codes will get thrown. strange, but none. none before i reset it, and none now or after.

when i got the car the ABS light was on and it threw a code for it until i went to the junk and got a 10$ sensor as the drivers side was sliced from a bad brake job i would imagine.

no codes for anything.. whats a good why to check the overflow vent at the top of the tranny?
 






Yes I clean my vents with brakekleen, I would completely reset the pcm, see the video link I posted. The P1000 is a drive cycle readiness monitor being set situation, not a big deal. Once all readiness monitors are set, that will go away. Try a pcm reset, clearing codes won't force the pcm to relearn
 






i already hard reset the pcm (before i had reader) for the abs before realizing the slice in the abs sensor which is why it is the 1000 is there so i dont want to reset the clock. it should go away.

more interested in the 3rd gear servo et al.. gonna so poke around. thanks
 






This thread was very helpful to get me up to speed on these sealed transmissions. I am going to do a change soon on my 03. I am big on using torque specs and wanted to add them for others who also like using the torque wrench. I picked two up from reading the thread. Let me know if anyone has the others to add or even the service manual page to add for these. Thanks

Drain Plug - 19 ft. lbs.
Drain Plug Torx Bolt - 89 in. lbs.
Trans Pan Bolts - ??
Trans Filter Bolts - ??
 






bumping this old thread. anyone know how to get ATF in these things with a stripped plug? on the 55R5S is there a drain plug on the side like the W's? - can i disconnect the cooler it through there? if so, how?
 












You could repair the threaded bore with a tap.

Thank you @BrooklynBay I know thats the real fix, but i dont want to get into it again with this thing. just replaced the trans, should have topped it off when i had her out or paid more attention to the drain plug. but i didnt. it needs about 1.5 qts. is there a plug with an allen-key by the tag on the the S's or just the W's?
 



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