Installing cruise control

[masospaghetti]

I'm in the process of installing a stock cruise control system in my 2000 Sport. It appears to be pre-wired for it.

I was under the impression that I had to replace the clockspring, but the original clockspring looks like it has all of the wiring for the cruise control already.

Does anyone know if I have to replace the clockspring or not?

 

[rolleye]

I installed stock cruise control in my 2002 Sport - using a Ford kit - and I did have to replace the clockspring. It actually came in the kit.

The '01 -'03 Sports are very similar to the other 2nd gen explorers but I don't know - they have body differences but most other things are the same.

Not a conclusive answer but hopefully some help.

 

[masospaghetti]

Thanks for the reply.

I just called the local Ford dealer, and per the Ford dealer, 2000 models only had two different clocksprings - one with audio controls, and one without.

So now I'm really confused!

 

[rolleye]

Lol, I know what you mean.

In my case - '02 Sport - I definitely did not have the wiring to plug in the cruise buttons but the new clockspring did so it was obvious.

If it was me I would just go for it if you think the wiring is there. I was very careful with the air bag removal - plenty of posts on steering wheel air bag removal - then I installed my new clockspring and went from there.

Without hijacking your thread ...

I understand the audio controls comment - I picked up a clockspring from the JY along with an extra set of 2000 EB buttons - I think it was an EB - that supports audio controls as I am planning to move from my cruise only wheel to a full cruise/audio/climate control steering wheel as I have alos picked up and bench tested all the EATC bits and pieces. Unfortunately, it takes me forever and a day to actually do my planned mods ... years actually.

I don't know if my plan will work but I do have the parts/wiring - including the EB connectors on the body for the extra wiring

One thing I ran into was that the upper steering wheel shroud needed to be replaced with the one in the kit and i don't really understand why. My Sport is a 5 speed manual trans so that might have something to do with it - dunno.

My gut feel is that it will work just fine but again my truck is different than yours.

 

[masospaghetti]

Again thanks for the reply. I put it all together and it doesn't work.

The servo was from either a 96 or 97 Explorer with the OHV engine, cable fits just fine, connector plugs right in. Based on the wiring diagrams the servos seem electrically the same. I tried two different set of cruise switches too.

 

[rolleye]

I know that there is a diagnostic procedure ... posted somewhere on the forum. You might want to try that first. There are some other small things that will keep the cruise system from operating.

I just remembered the wacky cruise safety interlock with the master cylinder. My master cylinder was not plumbed for the safety switch - probably a good thing - so I jumpered the connection on the harness. I probably should have use a fuse but it is working fine after 3 years without one.

I would definitely try the diagnostic procedure before ripping everything apart.

EDIT: This might be worth trying. I found it on a Ranger forum but it sounds like the diagnostic procedure that I used.

Do not start engine during this test. Transmission in Park or Neutral with parking brake applied.

Put the key in the ignition and hold the OFF button on the speed control then turn the key to the on position and then release the OFF button. This puts the speed control in diagnostic mode.

Within 5 seconds of releasing the OFF button, start pressing the buttons in the sequence shown below:

ON
RESUME
COAST
SET/ACCEL

(For each button pressed, the speed control light should flash ONCE, indicating that the pressed button is working.)

If, after pressing the last button (SET/ACCEL), the speed control light flashes:

2 flashes - defective brake pedal position sensor and/or a bad clutch pedal position sensor or the circuit is defective.
3 flashes - Brake deactivation switch is open or circuit is defective.
4 flashes - Vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective.

Immediately after the last flash code is complete, the speed control servo will pull the throttle open and then release it. This should be watched to check that the throttle and cable are not binding or inoperative for any other reason.

Although it is rare, it is also possible that this code could flash early during the diagnostic procedure.

5 flashes – Speed Control Actuator defective.

Turn ignition switch to the off position after test.

 

[masospaghetti]

I found the diagnostic procedure, will try it this afternoon. Thanks for the tip.

This is reposted, hat tip to forum member Kriegen for the original post found here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showpost.php?p=2466540&postcount=3

EDIT: rolleye beat me to it. Thanks!

I think the procedure is the same but the verbage is slightly different, so I will keep this post here anyway.

Self-Test Diagnostics

WARNING:
This test is a key on engine off (KOEO) test only that is conducted in park only with emergency brake fully engaged.

l Enter Self-Test Diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator lamp on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that the speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. Five additional flashes at this point indicate a defective speed control servo. Release the OFF switch.

l Note:
If the ON switch is not pressed within five seconds after entering diagnostic mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over.

Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RSM (resume), CST (coast) and SET/ACCEL.

l The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is pressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the light goes out for the previous switch.

l After all five speed control switches complete the sequence, the indicator lamp will flash to indicate a pass or fail:

— 1 flash - Test passed (with dynamic throttle pull).

— 2 flashes - BPP switch is defective, circuit is defective or brake pedal is applied; CPP switch is defective, circuit is defective or clutch pedal is applied.

— 3 flashes - Brake deactivation switch is open or circuit is defective.

— 4 flashes - Vehicle speed sensor is out of range or not connected.

l Immediately after the static test has passed, the speed control servo will then perform a dynamic test automatically by actuating the throttle lever from 1 mm to 10 mm of travel from the idle position. During the dynamic throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the actuator cable, verify the correct connection of the actuator cable to the throttle lever, and make sure the throttle returns back to the idle position. If improper connection and/or binding or sticking of actuator is observed, go to Symptom Chart.

l Return the ignition switch to the OFF position and proceed to Symptom Chart.

 

[masospaghetti]

So I didn't get any response from the system in diagnostic mode (I couldn't even get a single blink that indicates it went into diagnostic mode).

I did check the circuits and verified that the clockspring works (it should support cruise control), that the wiring in my steering wheel is OK, and that the servo is getting power and that my brake pressure switch / brake position switch / clutch switch are all working. I am going to get another servo from the yard and try that.

Here is the wiring diagram for a 2000 model, I checked and a 1996 model is essentially the same.

 

[rolleye]

Hmmm, doesn't sound good....

Just in case, did you check for blown fuses ?

From the diagram you posted, it looks like fuses 9, 10 and 13 in the fuse junction panel - the one inside the truck methinks and fuse 10 in the battery junction box all play some rule in this.

I guess it could also be there is no bulb - or its burnt out - for the indicator light in the cluster...

I am also curious about your brake master cylinder. My Sport - without factory cruise - did not have the switch installed on the master cylinder but the switch harness was clipped to the inside fender right below the master cylinder. I just jumpered that harness.

 

[masospaghetti]

Well, the culprit was either a dirty connector at the servo, a bad servo, or both.

I got a replacement servo from the junkyard and it also didn't work when I first installed it. After cleaning the contacts, it worked perfect, and the diagnostic procedure works just as shown.

I actually took my instrument cluster out to check and make sure a bulb was there.

My brake master cylinder had a pressure switch already installed. I'm not sure if its used by anything besides the cruise?

Thanks for the help though. Can't wait to try it out.

 

[rolleye]

Great stuff !!!

I am sure that the master cylinder switch is only used for cruise as I don't have a master cylinder switch and have seen no issues with anything else.

One thing you might want to check - very well documented on the forums - there is a very real and serious danger with that switch... seems it leaks over time and has caused numerous fires . There is actually a recall and you will probably want to do the research to be sure that you have the correct master cylinder switch.