Broke the lug studs right off

[1992fordgreen]

Hi
Still trying to sell this thing, something else breaks...it's such a pain I'll tell ya...

anmyways, driving along about 45 MPH all the sudden thump-thump-thump...

it was quite slight so I thought nothing of it...came home to find I almost lost my hubcap...drove it again, afterwards I came home...took the hubcap off and with it took 2 studs...

Is this best to DIY ior should I have a shop do it? It's a 4x4.

Thanks

 

[bobflood]

This usually happens when lug nuts are torqued on too tight. If you had tires off for any reason, whoever did the work should fix this. While I haven't done this on the Explorer, I have replaced studs on other vehicles. Use a BFH to knock the old studs out the back. There is usually one spot in the wheel rotation where there is clearance to get the new lug bolt in from the back; then use a stack of washers and a nut to pull the new bolt into the hub. An air impact makes this much easier!! Good luck.

 

[DjDom]

Is it a front wheel? If so, it's probably easier to just change the hub.

 

[1992fordgreen]

It's the rear drivers side. The previous owner screwed on lugs that didn't even fit, in fact they were just nuts and it stripped the threads. Thnx for the input.

 

[pcam13]

pull the axle and replace it. not too big of a job if you have the normal sockets and some patience.

 

[Bruces expo]

If an impact is used a torque stick should be as well , A 80 Ft Lb would be best .

 

[1992fordgreen]

pull the axle and replace it. not too big of a job if you have the normal sockets and some patience.

Might wanna mention, this truck has lived in NY for 11 years. (rusty)

I might chicken out if it's like 30 bucks at discount tire...thanks for the input all!

 

[Bruces expo]

Might wanna mention, this truck has lived in NY for 11 years. (rusty)

I might chicken out if it's like 30 bucks at discount tire...thanks for the input all!

Discount tire would not even remove/install new tires on my old 98 Z71 that had 1 broken stud , I had to get the stud fixed before they would install the new tires . This was back in 2008 .

 

[shadowless127]

Discount tire would not even remove/install new tires on my old 98 Z71 that had 1 broken stud , I had to get the stud fixed before they would install the new tires . This was back in 2008 .

They just didn't wanna work on a Chevy lol

 

[bobflood]

If an impact is used a torque stick should be as well , A 80 Ft Lb would be best .

Just to clarify - I was suggesting to use the impact to pull in and seat the new lug bolt into the hub. You can use an impact on a low setting to spin the lug nuts down when installing the wheel, but you should ALWAYS finish tightening with a torque wrench or torque stick (I use 100 ft-lbs on mine).

pull the axle and replace it. not too big of a job if you have the normal sockets and some patience.

Pulling the axles is a last resort for this problem. You have to pull the back of the differential housing off (which will drain all of the fluid out) to release the clip on the end of the axle and allow it to come out. If you are going to do this, a few additional thoughts:
- Make SURE that you can remove the differential fill bolt BEFORE you start this process. You do not want to be in the position of having the oil all come out with no way to refill it.
- Go ahead and replace the parking brake shoes while you have the axle out. This job is much harder with the axle in place. Don't ask me how I know!!
- If you have any doubts about the axle seals, replace them now also.

Good luck.

 

[1992fordgreen]

Just to clarify - I was suggesting to use the impact to pull in and seat the new lug bolt into the hub. You can use an impact on a low setting to spin the lug nuts down when installing the wheel, but you should ALWAYS finish tightening with a torque wrench or torque stick (I use 100 ft-lbs on mine).



Pulling the axles is a last resort for this problem. You have to pull the back of the differential housing off (which will drain all of the fluid out) to release the clip on the end of the axle and allow it to come out. If you are going to do this, a few additional thoughts:
- Make SURE that you can remove the differential fill bolt BEFORE you start this process. You do not want to be in the position of having the oil all come out with no way to refill it.
- Go ahead and replace the parking brake shoes while you have the axle out. This job is much harder with the axle in place. Don't ask me how I know!!
- If you have any doubts about the axle seals, replace them now also.

Good luck.

Thanks for the information! I just called discount, they said they wont do anything with a broken stud so he is right ^^. Otyher quotes I'm getting is $60 - $100. I am a DIY'er, how easy is this to knockout?

Thank you

 

[Turdle]

I'm curious as to how you will press in new studs with the axle in place. Since you need to remove the axle anyway ( or at least pull it out a few inches) I vote for change the rear diff fluid ( it needs it) while changing the rear axle. You should be able to find a junk yard axle for 50.00

 

[bobflood]

Thanks for the information! I just called discount, they said they wont do anything with a broken stud so he is right ^^. Otyher quotes I'm getting is $60 - $100. I am a DIY'er, how easy is this to knockout?

Thank you

Like I said - I have not done this on the Explorer - this is the process I have used on many other vehicles. If Turdle says that there is no way to get the lug bolt in the back without pulling out the axle some, I bow to his vastly greater experience on Explorers!! If you have to remove the axles - then do the other stuff I said while they are out.

It's usually pretty easy to knock the old stud out, especially if it is not snapped off flush with the hub. The studs are just pressed into the hub; they look like a bolt with a flat head 2-3MM thick. Get a BFH and swing hard; they will pop right out the back of the hub. If broken off flush it's a little harder; you need a punch/chisel and someone brave/foolish enought to hold it in place while you hit it. (I strongly advise AGAINST using the wife for this; teenage sons are OK, however.)

The harder part is getting the new lug in from the back of the hub. There is usually just one place in the hub rotation where there is enough room behind the hub face to work the new lug bolt into the hole. Once you do that, you will need a stack of washers the same hole diameter as the bolt, and a lug nut that you don't mind tearing up a bit. Put the washers over the bolt, then thread the nut onto the bolt. You need enough washers to ensure that the bolt is absolutely perpendicular to the hub face. Then, using an impact or breaker bar, you tighten down the nut - this will pull the raised shoulder of the lug bolt into the hole in the hub. Good luck.

 

[1992fordgreen]

Like I said - I have not done this on the Explorer - this is the process I have used on many other vehicles. If Turdle says that there is no way to get the lug bolt in the back without pulling out the axle some, I bow to his vastly greater experience on Explorers!! If you have to remove the axles - then do the other stuff I said while they are out.

It's usually pretty easy to knock the old stud out, especially if it is not snapped off flush with the hub. The studs are just pressed into the hub; they look like a bolt with a flat head 2-3MM thick. Get a BFH and swing hard; they will pop right out the back of the hub. If broken off flush it's a little harder; you need a punch/chisel and someone brave/foolish enought to hold it in place while you hit it. (I strongly advise AGAINST using the wife for this; teenage sons are OK, however.)

The harder part is getting the new lug in from the back of the hub. There is usually just one place in the hub rotation where there is enough room behind the hub face to work the new lug bolt into the hole. Once you do that, you will need a stack of washers the same hole diameter as the bolt, and a lug nut that you don't mind tearing up a bit. Put the washers over the bolt, then thread the nut onto the bolt. You need enough washers to ensure that the bolt is absolutely perpendicular to the hub face. Then, using an impact or breaker bar, you tighten down the nut - this will pull the raised shoulder of the lug bolt into the hole in the hub. Good luck.

excellent. Im gonna try this myself and knock it out. Appreciate the help!

 

[Turdle]

Beating the stud out will bend the axle-maybe even crack it. To use a bolt and washers to suck in the stud puts us back into the over torque problem.

The studs need to be pressed out and in. On a shop press. This is my advice.

You should be able to get a salvage axle for the price of studs. You "should" also replace the bearing and seal for that axle.

 

[1992fordgreen]

Beating the stud out will bend the axle-maybe even crack it. To use a bolt and washers to suck in the stud puts us back into the over torque problem.

The studs need to be pressed out and in. On a shop press. This is my advice.

You should be able to get a salvage axle for the price of studs. You "should" also replace the bearing and seal for that axle.

Thanks. Remember though, I am $1900 into this thing, it's worth about 1800, putting more and more and more money into it isn't an option for me at this point. I'm just trying to break even. New axle, new this and new that, just wont work for me or this explorer, of course, I aint selling this explorer with broken lug studs, so I do have to repair this. I got a quote of $100 to do this at a shop...worth the money/trouble?

Thanks so much for your input!

 

[TomCat_Ford]

It might not be the recommended way, but you can install new studs without removing the axle; I did just that a few years ago. I used a large stack of grade 8 washers, an old lug nut, a 1/2" breaker bar, and a VERY LONG cheater bar to seat the studs (I replaced several of them). If you look around, you can probably find a few threads/posts that go into more detail than I have here; I was able to find them a few years ago, and they helped me get through the process.

As always, though, your mileage may vary. It's not a fun job, so I'd strongly consider spending the money to have it done. Of course, I had to do it outside in the sun and 90+ degree temperatures; that might be influencing how much I hated installing those new lugs. As you can imagine, I am very thankful to have a garage now.

 

[SoNic67]

excellent. Im gonna try this myself and knock it out. Appreciate the help!

You need to keep the tire on and beat in the stud with a punch-out tool. This way, the weight of the vehicle resting on the tire, will keep the axle from being forced back by your blows.
But based on the fact that probably is rusted solidly, I would change the hub. And seals. And parking pads.

 

[1992fordgreen]

You need to keep the tire on and beat in the stud with a punch-out tool. This way, the weight of the vehicle resting on the tire, will keep the axle from being forced back by your blows.
But based on the fact that probably is rusted solidly, I would change the hub. And seals. And parking pads.

And the list could go on... I cant really put more money into it...

I just removed the tire (what a job that was, the owner before just put on nuts) the lug studs are all cross threaded. I will atempt to drive it to a shop, but IDK if the tire will stay on long enough with just 3 lugs. The two studs broke directly beside eaxchother...this vehicle belonged in a junk yard...man oh man...

 

[SoNic67]

So either you change the hub or toss the truck?

BTW, driving with three bolts is VERY dangerous.