Wireless Rear View Camera on '08 Adrenalin + RV Trailer | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Wireless Rear View Camera on '08 Adrenalin + RV Trailer

My first relatively major Explorer-oriented project in years. It felt great to wrench in and around one. :D

My folks got back into the towable RV world after a +/- 15 year hiatus. My old man wanted a rear view camera on the trailer for traveling and backing up. After some research I chose Tadi Brothers equipment. Most of it appears to be re-badged items available on Amazon for less, but the Tadi Brothers warranty was attractive.

Starting with the trailer, there's a rear-facing 120 degree camera. It's stuck on the bumper then secured with U brackets. I couldn't bolt it to the bumper because the black water hose goes inside. The wires coming off are power and a 25 foot video cable. I ensured the cables would not disconnect by placing shrink tube over them and melting them tight. This also will prevent moisture from entering.

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The cables run from the back to the front through 1" plastic split loom. (Does anyone need 65' of it? I bought a 100' spool and used about 35' of it.)

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The wiring ties into the 12 volt system under the trailer, where the wires come in from the tow vehicle. The connections were made in the power junction box attached to the frame. Power runs through a waterproof rocker switch so there is no drain on the battery when not towing. The system is wireless, so without the switch, the wireless transmitter always would be on. Before my old man pulls out, he'll need to throw the switch. It glows red when it's on.

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The wireless transmitter.

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The wireless receiver sits on the back window of the Adrenalin.

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​I had the interior panels and part of the rubber flooring off. I also had the rear seats 3/4 removed. I wanted to hide all wires. The power wires run down the back, under the floor, and tap into the wires for the rear 12 volt power point. It was the easiest tap point, and my old man never plugs into it. The power to the receiver and front mirror, like the trailer, runs through a switch. It's an identical switch to the trailer, except not waterproof. Like the trailer, my old man will need to switch it on when he tows. But, it will prevent any drain on the truck's battery.

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The video transmission wires run behind the interior panels to the front above the driver's side, where there is a small connector. The connector connects the LCD mirror to the rest of the system, so my old man can remove the mirror when he is not towing.

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The mirror clips onto the existing mirror. The center contains a 7" LCD screen and, because the trailer camera reverses the feed, shows an image as if there was no trailer at all. The only issue I found was that the LCD mirror also is reflective (so you can use it when the display is turned off). The glare during the day was overly excessive, so I fixed it (below). The image you see is the rear lattice in the pole barn where the RV is stored. The image also displays distance lines, which are helpful for backing up, passing, etc.

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The mirror with less glare.

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And my solution to the glare. I removed the glass portion of the mirror and using 1/16" black plastic (similar to head unit space filler plastic) created a filler plate. Now the LCD screen is unobstructed and there is no reflection. The function buttons are not accessible now, but before I put the mirror back together I set the brightness, contrast, etc. Also, if you push on the lower right side of the plastic, the power button still functions to turn the LCD on and off.

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Every power line is isolated with an inline fuse, either 2 or 3 amp, depending on the load on the opposite end. All connections are soldered and shrink-tubed.

Total install time was about 20 hours over three weekends. Most of the time was spent identifying an issue, then trying to determine the best approach, then waiting for electrical components to arrive after I ordered them. For example, I thought the RV's power line from the truck was one-way. However, it's two-way to the battery. So, that led to needing a switch, then trying to find a waterproof one, to buying washers from McMaster to make the frame hole smaller, to riveting it in place, to ordering switches and other electrical components from Super Bright LEDs, etc. In the end, however, the install was a blast.
 



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Brilliant! We just picked up a 27 footer! How is the view from the camera? Would having it at the top of the RV be more beneficial?
 






The view is as if you're riding in a car. It's a little low, but the camera lens compensates for the height. If I was braver, I would have mounted it underneath the center top running light set. However, I was too afraid of punching a hole for the wires, ensuring an adequate seal with a grommet and sealant, etc. The RV is brand new, and the last thing I wanted to happen was to get a call from my father telling me there is a leak. I also wasn't too sure how to route the wires inside so that they didn't show. With more time and more know-how, I would have liked to try your plan. :)

Assuming you have a wide view, semi-fisheye lens on the camera, a top mount would be great. Aim the camera so the red line is on your rear bumper, or a couple inches off, and the height and viewing angle would enable you to see everything else.

The next major project is replacing the Adrenalin's 6CD head unit with Kenwood navigation unit. I want to amass the parts for a truck rear camera install first, using parts from the F-150. I like how their cameras are recessed in the rear bed handle or Ford logo, as opposed to a license plate surround or similar. This one will be hardwired and only display when the truck is put in reverse.
 






I like how their cameras are recessed in the rear bed handle or Ford logo, as opposed to a license plate surround or similar. This one will be hardwires and only display when the truck is put in reverse.

I want this too! I have the license plate frame camera on the Super Dooty now. Which works great most the time. But I imagine having it slightly higher would help greatly when backing up to a trailer and knowing when you're under the coupler. Ahhh these 1st World problems.


Which hitch is your ol' man using on the Adrenaline? I went with the Andersen hitch which seems to be pretty awesome.

WD%20Hitch%204-in%20w%20frame,%20bgd.jpg


http://www.andersenhitches.com/Catalog/andersen-nosway-weight-distribution-hitch.aspx
 






Hah! I remember watching the YouTube videos of a driver swerving with one of those! I looked at those for him -- I really liked them -- but I was concerned with the reviews that claimed premature wear of the bushings. The design is awesome, and the simplicity is much more than a traditional weight distribution bars/friction anti-sway setup. If it was my trailer, I would have gone with the same one. But, because I didn't want a call from the hitch, either (I mean, I would take the call, but I tried to keep the possibility of issues as low as possible), I steered him toward a Reese Pro Series with friction anti-sway. Apart from the setup weighing a metric ton, it's very similar to what he used before, and because the trailer is 25', it does a good job.

I'm repeating myself, but I really like Andersen's stuff. One of my gifts to him was an Alumistinger 2" drop with with a 2" Rapid Hitch Greaseless Hardball to replace his rusty old Draw-Tite drop setup (can't have an ugly hitch on an Adrenalin).
 












This is awesome. I have been wanting a backup camera on the back of my boat trailer for bringing it into the garage. Is the unit waterproof!!!

Awesome idea too. What about wiring it up for a quick release for multiple trailers?!
 






Awesome idea too. What about wiring it up for a quick release for multiple trailers?!

Ideally a go-pro on a magnet or nylon strap with point-of-view capability vie bluetooth to a phone or the screen in the truck is what I'm thinking.
 






Well, they claim it's waterproof. However, I marked on the split loom where the video and power cables connect the camera to extension cables on the assumption I would need to replace it at some point. My guess is that it's waterproof for rain, but not for submerging.

You both hit on the biggest complaint for all cameras -- their resolution sucks. It's like 1990s analog TV: you can see what you want to see, but comparatively it's not great. I'd love a system that uses a true HD camera and screen.

Since the transmitters and receivers operate on set frequencies, I think you can get more than one transmitter of the same frequency and use the same receiver for different trailers. I suppose that's another issue here: will it work well until he pulls up next to another person with a transmitter on the same frequency? I think that's what will cause the universe to implode.
 






I wonder if there is a way to use the 7-pin bargman as the connection point between vehicles, and hardwire everything. Most people are only using 6 of the 7 connections:
-ground
-12V aux/charge
-electric brakes
-left turn (brake)
-right turn (brake)
-tail lights

The 7th pin can be used for optional/add-on backup lights. But would it be possible to send a video signal thru there?
-Wire camera directly to 7th pin on the trailer male umbilical cord.
-Wire monitor directly to the 7th pin on the truck's female socket.
-Power each unit at each end.
 






The more I think about it, why not just run RCA cable all the way, and make it's own connection next to the 7-pin connector (rather than thru it)?
My point: Why bother with the wireless system?
 






It's another way of doing it. :)

System-Trailer-Spiral-Cable-For-4pin-Reversing-Kit.jpg
 






Nice install! Thanks for sharing. I almost went with a wireless one, but decided to hardwire mine.

I installed a rear view and license plate camera in the truck and 24' snowmobile trailer. My LCD(Pyle PLCM7200 7” Mirror Monitor) is a clip on the mirror like yours. Works great!
My final install was was a composite video connection on the back of the truck. Just like thebrakeman suggested. That was the best, and clearest signal. My first try, I used a 4 pole connector and wired in the video connection, but wasn't the clearest signal. I also ran ACC power in the 4 pole connector since my trailer +12 was always hot(camera turns off now).

Here's my install
Tow Truck
The LCD monitor contains 2 video inputs and can be wired to automatically switch to the hitch camera, when the vehicle is shifted to reverse. I decided not to use this feature because I preferred to keep the trailer cam active when backing up the enclosed trailer.
The wiring is all in one jacket, and easily ran down the ceiling trim. Then down the driver’s side panel by front window. I installed a relay for ACC power to the monitor and the cameras. I ran the 2 RCA cables down the floor trim and all the way down to the back of the vehicle. I had them exit the vehicle.

The hitch camera is easily mounted. Just take the top 2 screws off the license plate, install, and done. Wire in the ACC power, and grd(chassis bolt), and connect 1 of the Video cables. I then ran the wires into the cab to be run up to the LCD.

The other video cable is connected to panel mount connector. I just plug my trailer video cable to that when I hook up. Sorry no pics on that.
I had fabricated a custom mount on the back of the truck for the 4-pole connector(Pollak Heavy-Duty, 4-Pole, Panel Mount)

Trailer

The trailer camera was mounted above the door. This height makes viewing angle excellent. I used silicone to seal off the gaps.
I ran the Video cable all the way under the trailer and up to the front.


I think it turned out very well. You can easily backup the truck to the trailer hitch and get it right the first time. You can also see behind the trailer very well while towing. Great for backing up the trailer also!

Pics
Camera on Rear of Trailer

Custom Plate w/ 4 Pin Connector - Only used for ACC power(camera) now- (still need pic of panel mount video connector)

Rearview camera in action
 






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