Not another V8 swap thread (N2Ford)

[CDW6212R]

Well done SVT, I am sure that David will love to have the truck back and enjoy it big time.

Congrats David.

 

[just1me]

I kinda thought it might be the clockspring, but good thing you caught the bpp sensor, Id be more worried about that thing. Looking forward to seeing what more he is gonna do with his 5.0 Sport Trac now, and to your Intech swap, are you going with the hydroboost setup?

 

[RangerSVT]

So, you would think the problems would have ended when it was loaded on the trailer. Nope. Got about 15 miles from the house and the trailer caught a flat. No one in my town or the neighboring town, including mobile home dealers, had a tire they could sell me (mobile home axles). So I had to backtrack about a mile to the gas station on the rim, which now looks like a pentagon, park my truck, offload the red trac and drive it to meet up with David. Finally got my truck & trailer home about an hour ago, and I left meeting with David at about 1pm...

SVT

 

[RangerSVT]

As far as hydroboost, I'm not sure, but if the donor has it, I'll probably snag it too...

SVT

 

[N2FORD]

Just got home, made a few stops on the way. Truck did fine, feels stronger. Rick filled it up with gas and reset the trip set so I can see what the mileage is with the stock size tires. I will put my 33's back on soon. Got a few things to do to it including a good bath. One of the first will be to get the drive shafts balanced. Trying to figure how I want the exhaust, any ideas? I am thinking of one two in two out muffler and side exit or dumps at the axle. And the other small issues mentioned in previous posts. I am glad to have it back and thanks again to Rick and all the folks on here.

 

[just1me]

Yeah a single dual in/dual out muffler would be nice, jones exhaust makes a great maxflow muffler similar to magnaflow but flows a bit more cfm, it's also stainless steel, part number MF2468, it's 2.5" dual in/dual out and cost less also. Of course there is dynomax ultraflow, flowmaster, and other brands available.

Lighting style side swept exhaust would be a nice touch, I myself like an aggressive muffler but without the drone aka chambered mufflers.

 

[CDW6212R]

Just got home, made a few stops on the way. Truck did fine, feels stronger. Rick filled it up with gas and reset the trip set so I can see what the mileage is with the stock size tires. I will put my 33's back on soon. Got a few things to do to it including a good bath. One of the first will be to get the drive shafts balanced. Trying to figure how I want the exhaust, any ideas? I am thinking of one two in two out muffler and side exit or dumps at the axle. And the other small issues mentioned in previous posts. I am glad to have it back and thanks again to Rick and all the folks on here.

I vote for adding two mufflers, thin enough to fit without hanging down. The larger volume total should make a deeper sound but not louder. The exhaust runs through each at half the speed of going through one, which may also be quieter. I have yet to install the Vortex pair I have(about 4" thick each).

 

[N2FORD]

Size is an issue as I want to keep it small enough it won't get hung off roading. I was under it this morning and side exit is not going to work with the steps being on it. The rest of my family are in the lower 5 foot range and need the steps to get in and out. At this time thinking of dual 2.5 in and single 3 out and going just over the axle and dumping there. Do not want the drone but want a good sound like my Mustang 5.0.

 

[CDW6212R]

Size is an issue as I want to keep it small enough it won't get hung off roading. I was under it this morning and side exit is not going to work with the steps being on it. The rest of my family are in the lower 5 foot range and need the steps to get in and out. At this time thinking of dual 2.5 in and single 3 out and going just over the axle and dumping there. Do not want the drone but want a good sound like my Mustang 5.0.

That's exactly what the Vortex pair I have are, two 2.5" in and 3.0" out. I know what you mean though on simple etc.

 

[ttbit]

Congrats!

I don't have any drone with my flowmasters on the ST. I never did with my Ranger with the flowmasters and long tube headers either. In my Mustangs, I did. Some of it has to do with the h-pipe and length. With the stock Explorer exhaust having different lengths, that probably cancels a lot of drone. I hate drone and went through quite a few changes on my supercharged Mustang to get it right.

Now...exhaust leaks? Yeah...I have 2. One where the manifold meets the passenger pipe, and then one by the transmission area. Took it to the exhaust shop a few times and they can't seem to get it right.

That reminds me.....I need to fire mine up and change the oil. Been sitting in the garage for about 2 months now. I have been driving the summer vehicle.

 

[N2FORD]

I got the drive shafts out but didn't make it to the shop to have them balanced. While I was under the truck I noticed the transfer case is hitting the floor on the bottom side. When I put the 4406 in my Mounty I had to beat the floor up a little and cut a tab off the case. I am thinking I need to do that also on the ST. I also considered dropping the rear cross member about 3/8 of an inch for a little extra clearance. I think some of the vibes we felt driving the ST is from that. Still thinking about the exhaust.

 

[N2FORD]

I got the cross member dropped a little and that seems to have gotten the transfer case a little more room. I also cut one of the tabs off the side of the tc where the skid plate comes down around it. The one picture shows the tab gone, the other shows the nuts I used to space the cross member down and hole I had to slot to let the horizontal bolt still go though.

 

[ttbit]

Good deal. That must have helped some of the vibration!

 

[N2FORD]

Rear driveshaft is in, its a combo of the F150 yoke out of the transfer case a shaft out of the junkyard and a 9.75 Ford rear end rear flange that bolts up to the 8.8. Neapco made a combo joint part number 2-1435 that combines spicer 1350 and 1410. I think the shaft is from a GM truck but it was the correct length. It drives much smoother now. Had similar problems when I did the F150 transfer case in my Mounty. Working on the front now, its going to be from a Jeep that I found at the junkyard. Its also the correct length and will require a custom joint.

 

[N2FORD]

Went with a Magnaflow for the muffler dual 2 1/2 inch inlet and 3 inch outlet. Got it from AutoZone, pretty good price there. I hope to get it installed next week at Mighty Muffler in west Knoxville.

 

[ttbit]

Let me know how they do. I would still like to get a couple of leaks fixed!

 

[CDW6212R]

Went with a Magnaflow for the muffler dual 2 1/2 inch inlet and 3 inch outlet. Got it from AutoZone, pretty good price there. I hope to get it installed next week at Mighty Muffler in west Knoxville.

That looks kind of like mine, how flat and thick is that? If it's not more than about 4.5" thick, two could be stacked together and fit well.

 

[N2FORD]

The body of the muffler is 4 inches by 9 inches and 14 inches long. Its part number 13288 by Magnaflow. I wanted one muffler tucked up so hopefully no interference when off roading.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yeah, the space there is around 9" or so from the frame bottom up to the body.

 

[RangerSVT]

Hey guys, I haven't gone MIA, just been real busy, David said I should show what I'm working on, so I'll hijack his thread for a couple of minutes. I'm doing an M90 supercharged 5.0 swap into my father in laws jeep tj, and am building a custom harness for it. After I get it running, I'll be tuning it using SCT... (copied from another forum)....

Rained off and on all day, moved the harnesses into the shop to work on them. Didn't get as much time in as planned, my sisters truck went down and I had to bring her bf to and from college. I stopped working on this at about 915 tonight. I've got about 6 hours or so on this, maybe 8. I'm about a quarter of the way through the wiring, at least on the engine harness. Still got to tie into the vehicle wiring for power, diagnostic port, speedo, tach, etc. Lets see what 8 hours worth of wiring takes...

Here is what I started with today...

The 42 pin plug was missing some pins as not all 42 locations are used, so I had to source some male and female pins so I can use all 42 circuits through the connector. The 12 pin connector that the abs circuits go through use the same size pins, so all the small pins were extracted and used...

Here is the 42 pin connector all filled up. 2 of the pin retainers have not been reinstalled at the time of this pic...

Here is where it gets more fun. The crank sensor circuit is shielded. Since I'm both extending and relocating the harness, I need to build a shield similar to the one used here. 1" wide aluminum tape is used with a bare ground wire running the length of the circuit, where it's grounded near the ecu along with the ecu case ground. This is a separate ground from the power ground, but its still a ground. I plan to use aluminum foil cut in 1" strips along with a bare wire. Electrical tape is wrapped over the shielded circuit, so aluminum tape is not 100% needed...

Here is the circuit with part of it shielded. As you can see, I got a ways to go...

My make shift work station. One of these days I'll build me a soldering station, which will consist of a 4x16 table so I can lay an entire harness out and have room to work...

Here is the engine bay harness that is making wire donations. Now you see why the need for a big soldering station...

And here is what it looks like at 915, doesn't look like much work was done, does it? Take into consideration that some circuits were deleted, some circuits from the ecu get cut, extended and rewired through the 42 pin connector, some circuits get cut, extended, and routed to a different area near the 42 pin connector, and most circuits on the 42 pin get cut and rewired. Basically, its more than 3 times the soldering that was done on David's and my sport trac...

All the wires you see between the ecu plug and the 42 pin plug (the short bundle of wires in the middle) all need to be cut, extended and soldered. It probably would have been easier to cut a hole in the firewall and install the ecu like ford did, but its too late now. Tomorrow's another day. I got other stuff going on around the house, should resume this either monday or tuesday...

Here is what the engine looks like today....

For the complete build, here is the link...
http://www.rangerfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21993

SVT