timing chain replacement on 4.0 liter sohc | Page 4 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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timing chain replacement on 4.0 liter sohc

masospaghetti,

Thanks for the reply. I bought my 2001 ford explorer sport from a dealership, and don't know too much about the back history of the vehicle. It seems to run great, though.

As for the yellow and white sticker that appears on the valve cover, I assume that means the motor could possibly be a remanufactured unit from ford. On the sticker it has a bar code on there that appears to be scannable and has the number 1G-986-AA on it. I did a google search for that number and pulled up a few hits from ford dealership that sell the V6 sohc motor. It also states in small lettering that it was manufactured in Cologne, Germany on 08/2000
 



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Was the replacement front tensioner you purchased an OEM part or an aftermarket part? Some members have purchased aftermarket tensioners that seized upon engine start in the extended position causing the cassette guide assembly to break because the chain could not flex. If you purchased an aftermarket part what was the brand?

I had 2 OEM Ford Tensioners seize in the fully extended position and it eventually cause the guide to fall apart!
 






Yes the hydraulic/spring tensioner ? should i get otc 6480 and 6481 to hold cam while installing new parts or will they hold when i remove the tension on LH ... I had marks on the crank sprocket to jackshaft sprocket , then from lh cam to cam sprocket ... TDC # 1 piston dead top on compression . I'll try to up load pics

IMG-20120107-00002.jpg

IMG-20120107-00003.jpg

I put marks with an awl
IMG-20120107-00007.jpg

these pics were taken with a blackberry sorry
retime camshafts



A step by step timing procedure is listed in the following thread but uses the OTC-6488 timing tool kit: Cam timing procedure using OTC-6488

For your particular situation:

1. Complete the replacement of the left cassette components but don't tighten the left camshaft sprocket retaining bolt

2. Time the right camshaft by tightening the front jackshaft sprocket retaining bolt after positioning the crankshaft and the camshaft properly.

3. Time the left camshaft by tightening the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt after positioning the crankshaft and the camshaft properly.

The proper crankshaft position for timing is #1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke.

The proper camshaft position for timing is the timing slot at the end of the camshaft is below the axis of the camshaft and parallel to the head surface that the valve cover mates with. See below photo.
View attachment 67047

The camshaft position sensor nub on the left camshaft should be as in the photo below that shows the timing tool attached.
View attachment 67049

It will be necessary to prevent the right camshaft and crankshaft from rotating when tightening the jackshaft front sprocket retaining bolt. It will be necessary to prevent the left camshaft and crankshaft from rotating when tightening the left camshaft sprocket retaining bolt. In both cases the jackshaft to camshaft timing chain should be taught on the traction side when torquing the retaining bolt. Since you don't have the OTC-6488 timing tool kit you will have to improvise.

You may want to refer to the SOHC V6 camshaft timing threads in my helpful threads linked in my signature.
 












I like the video, but you should add the part about supplying tension to the cassettes before tightening the cam nuts. If you don't you will still be out a degree or 2 due to chain slack.
 






To get access to the back of the engine did you have to separate the block from the motor mounts or the mounts from the chassis? Have to take off the flywheel? for clean98x
 






I'm in same place today. Drivers side front plastic cassette is missing when I opened valve cover. Motor in.
I want to only replace the plastic guides. So now I have to remove the cover, remove upper part of main chain and set aside? And then mark and remove the small chain assy, and reuse that chain, only replace plastics. Is that ok?? Do I neeed to vice grip down that cam shaft before I remove those sprockets?
I don't think I will replace the chain, only the plastics there going to the cam shaft.....
Any thoughts?
 












Thats a great thread...i'm all over it. Question though, I will lock sprockets down when tightening/loosening, i'll mark chains position on sprockets. I'll put vice grips on the left cam shaft to keep it from rotating when i remove it's sprocket. Question is, i dont need to do anything to the passenger side, so no need to lock it down right? I've just kept the valve cover on it this whole time.
 






If you don't loosen the jackshaft sprocket retaining bolt the right camshaft timing relative to the crankshaft will be maintained. On later than your model the holes in the jackshaft sprocket are too small to get the cassette guide lower mounting bolt thru.
 






Ahhhh. So I can leave the jack sprocket and chain where they are, and mark and remove camshaft sprocket to get plastic guides out. Remove lower cassette bolt thru the jack sprocket. I'm only replacing guides and not that chain. But i will keep cam shaft locked with vice grips when removing that sprocket. And just reassemble everything as exact as I found it. Got it.
 






well its my friends truck she was driving down the road and it quit on her and thats where i came in,i suspected it had jumped time or chain had broken, had no idea that ford could design something so silly...anyway she does'nt have the money to fix it the right way so i was gonna just replace the giudes and tensioners and leave the chains alone but engine has 197k so not really sure thats smart not to mention the parts are 360.00 with my nephews ford discount...any thoughts??
You can do all three without removing the engine. Done it transmission has to be remove to access a bolt behind the tranny bell housing but it can be
 






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