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stalling when turning right

npereza

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January 22, 2012
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Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 Explorer
Hey Guys just got myself a new explorer 02 explorer v6 with 73k miles. I thought I had the deal of the month until I turned my first corner getting on the freeway and the car just stalled. All electrical was still on and when I turned the key it started right up and drove like nothing happened. It happens only when turning right. If you dont turn fast it will just almost die and if you turn fast it will completely die but again it start up with no problem other than that. I read some posts on similar issues and checked my inertia switch and connector and neither had issues. I have a scanner with good live graphing but don't know exactly what to start looking at. There is no check engine light and the car scans for no codes at all other than some of the body control units problems.
 



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Hey Guys just got myself a new explorer 02 explorer v6 with 73k miles. I thought I had the deal of the month until I turned my first corner getting on the freeway and the car just stalled. All electrical was still on and when I turned the key it started right up and drove like nothing happened. It happens only when turning right. If you dont turn fast it will just almost die and if you turn fast it will completely die but again it start up with no problem other than that. I read some posts on similar issues and checked my inertia switch and connector and neither had issues. I have a scanner with good live graphing but don't know exactly what to start looking at. There is no check engine light and the car scans for no codes at all other than some of the body control units problems.

Either the power steering pump is putting more resistance on the belt (thus crankshaft pulley) and the engine cannot overcome the resistance at low RPMs, or the IAC valve is not supplying enough oxygen to the throttle body as the demand increases from the pump. This means a failing pump, a failing IAC, or a bad IAC connection.

I had the same happen to a friends Grand am recently. I recommend checking the pump, and flushing the system with fresh fluid (Mercon V) if the pump checks out. That's a reasonable start. A new Motorcraft IAC is 180 at the dealer and 90 on rock auto.

-Dubya
 






Either the power steering pump is putting more resistance on the belt (thus crankshaft pulley) and the engine cannot overcome the resistance at low RPMs, or the IAC valve is not supplying enough oxygen to the throttle body as the demand increases from the pump. This means a failing pump, a failing IAC, or a bad IAC connection.

I had the same happen to a friends Grand am recently. I recommend checking the pump, and flushing the system with fresh fluid (Mercon V) if the pump checks out. That's a reasonable start. A new Motorcraft IAC is 180 at the dealer and 90 on rock auto.

-Dubya



Im on it. Ill pull the iac and check overall condition of the valve and harness and inspect the p/s pump. Thanks for the reply. Ill post back shortly. Will the issue with the p/s pump creating resistance apply to only one turn direction or would it also have to be on left turns as well. I tested the car a lot earlier. I realized making right hand turns at slow speeds under 10mph will not make the car stall at all and seems less likely to stall if the gas is not hit during the turn.
 






The IAC is sometimes not something that has any visible signs of wear or failure. The IAC in my explorer (unrelated issue to this steering) went recently, and looked like nothing was wrong with the eye and a good cleaning, but still needed replacing.

Stalling without stepping on the gas makes sense - by not opening the throttle up more to overcome the resistance of the pump is causing the current air supply to be too weak (again, either because the pump is too strenuous or the IAC is not supplying enough air).

As for only stalling in one direction, my gut tells me that it is either an illusion that you're not noticing, or something about the geometry of the steering components is just coincidentally putting more strain on the pump that would normally not be an issue (however a good visual/feel steering system check is always helpful).

There are electronic and wiring tests you can perform to rule out IAC or harness issues. You seem to be fairly comfortable with the vehicle and what's required, so I would push you to take the opportunity to teach yourself some of those (sometimes boring) Ohm tests, etc. Google will steer you in the right direction. (No pun intended).


-Dubya
 






I am having this same issue. It didn't do this until I replaced the fuel pump and it only happens when I'm getting low on fuel.. I have no idea what's causing it..
 






Well I hadnt had time to look into it to much further as I needed to drive the car until a few days ago I got some time off to work at it.

I pulled the trottle body and fully clcean the plate and IAC, I cleaned the MAF sensor connector and I sprayed the MAF with cleaner. I also went down to check the wiring harness connector for the fuel pump near the side of the the frame on the pasenger side. After doing so I tested the car and the problem was gone. Now its back. Should I just retrace one by one?
 






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