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Opinion 2015 Sport

Yes the color combo is great. The service manager comes out every time I stop by and looks at it!

The body shop: had two different comments
1. I would not touch it and leave it go because they can't match it
2. It is up to what you want since it is a factory defect. He then advised for me to talk with my sales rep and then get back with him on what I want done.
He also took pictures and said let us know what you want.

So I will talk with my sale rep tomorrow. He has been with the dealership since 1987 so he has been around the block on stuff. It is just upsetting but the car still looks great!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I still can not believe how nice it drives.

I did have another problem today, I could not turn off the radio. I could not find and on/ off icon to press. So finally I realized I can verbally tell the car to shut it off and it did. :eek::eek::eek::eek:

So I will let you know and also try and get some good photo's.
 



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sgtdon, your caption doesn't seem to go with your picture in the margin. ;)

Peter
 






THANK YOU PETER, DID NOT NOTICE THAT UNTIL YOU MENTIONED IT.

Well off to the dealer this morning.
 






As you can see I added the mud guards, vent shades over the doors, roof rails, and a bug shield which I thinks looks good on the front. Really nice looking and I have gotten a lot of compliments on it from people. I also tinted the front side windows which I hope I do not get in trouble for. I only went with the same shade as the read side windows so you can see in them. Ohio is only 50% and I think they are about 35%.
 

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I talked to my sales rep who advised me he would not mess with it if it was his car. His reason was that they probably could not match it up completely because nothing is as good as the factory paint job. He also added it was so small that no one will notice it unless you point it out.

I would say it is close to the size of the head of a pin, yes it is small. I do not know yet on what I should do? Any ideas???:feedback:

Even Ford can comment, Chrystal is it hard for them to match the factory paint?

This is the picture of the defect. Hopefully you can get an idea and you can see part of the wheel well. I am going to wait for comments before I talk with my dealer again.
 

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Looks good except for that front license plate holder. Those things spoil the front of good looking vehicles. Wish states would drop the front licence plate requirement. I don't run one on my Corvette, but will probably get cited one of these days.
 






I think I would tend to agree with your sales rep and leave it as is unless this is something that is going to keep bothering you every time you walk by.
If you don't need the front plate bracket and want to remove it, there is a thread on that;
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=308815

Looking good sgtdon, even with that minor blemish.

Peter
 












Spot in Paint

I talked to my sales rep who advised me he would not mess with it if it was his car. His reason was that they probably could not match it up completely because nothing is as good as the factory paint job. He also added it was so small that no one will notice it unless you point it out.

I would say it is close to the size of the head of a pin, yes it is small. I do not know yet on what I should do? Any ideas???:feedback:

Sgtdon, my guess is that the spot will bother you. Professionally applied touch-up probably wouldn't be as noticeable. YMMV.
 






Peter I was hoping you would comment. First, YES I do need the front license plate holder. They will and do write tickets for not having one around here. I can put my plates on after I get my title (another week from now).

COEXSPORT you did not comment on the defect?

I don't think that the defect will keep me up at night but it bothers me that it made it past their quality control and was not fixed. If you are walking by it and glance down it appears to be a very small white speak of dust. But of course now that I know it is there it is huge to me!!:eek:

I do NOT want to make it worse and I am sure they will tell me what you just said that it is possible, they could make it worse or make it stand out more.

I heard people talk and a few commercials about a colored wax that covers up things??? Does this stuff work and would it cover up my problem? Or is this stuff just for clear coat damage?:scratch:
 






Try a red Sharpie....it may cover it may cover it well enough that no one may ever see it. Just re-apply if it eventually comes off....can't hurt to try!
 






The SHARPIE idea is a good one. It is so simple it just may work?

Thank you, I will give it a try.
 






The SHARPIE idea is a good one. It is so simple it just may work?

Thank you, I will give it a try.

Sounds like a great idea to me also. Let us know how it works.
 






I tried the red sharpie but it did not work.:(
It showed up worse because it was a different color red. It sounded good, thanks for the idea.

Will go to body shop tomorrow for options.
 






I tried the red sharpie but it did not work.:(
It showed up worse because it was a different color red. It soundedicated good.

Will go to body shop tomorrow for options.

Sorry it didn't work. Good luck at the body shop.
 






A week after I picked up my 2015 sport, I gave it the complete detail...wash, clay (skipped the polish) wax all griots stuff. I found 3 seperate paint defects. Two were along the doors almost like someone opened a door into the side, the odd thing it was covered with touch up paint. There is the smallest of "dents" and the touch up isnt very good. On there hood there is a pin head size of white paint missing and it is covered with clear.

I was in your boat, I didnt want to leave it (especially with the upcharge for the tri coat white) but what was I going to have done. repaint the door? In the end I left it but I left the sales guy (who I consider a friend) know that it was there and I wasnt happy about it...neither was he.
 






I have the all black '15 Sport and love it... I really like your interior though!

I also had a defect on the driver side passenger door above the wheel well... Buffer took it out at the body shop. Free of charge after they changed my Ford emblems to the black ones.
 






Congrats! Looks great!

Just bought my wife a 2015 Ford Explorer Sport white platinum with pretty much all options but adaptive cruise. We ordered exactly the way we wanted and patiently awaited delivery. Ours has a paint defect from factory as well. There are light yellow spots across all of rear bumper under clear coat. Does anyone know if the bumpers are painted at a sub contractor facility and then installed at factory? This was very disappointing after waiting for delivery on a $50k explorer. I'm stuck in the same situation of maybe not being able to match color versus just leaving as is.

Does anyone else have a driver's door that seems a little tough to close? I drive a Raptor with large doors that seem to close with a lot less effort. I haven't had much time to look into it, but maybe a simple mechanical setting?

Obviously, I've already noticed the soot on tail pipes and even on rear white surfaces. From what I've read that is common and ok?

I look fwd to reading more on this forum and doing a few minor mods like new lighting (HID heads and LEDs pretty much every else) and front window tint to match rear. Other than that, I like it just the way it is, except of course for the poor QA at factory on the paint defect. Very disappointing.
 






Congrats! Looks great!

Just bought my wife a 2015 Ford Explorer Sport white platinum with pretty much all options but adaptive cruise. We ordered exactly the way we wanted and patiently awaited delivery. Ours has a paint defect from factory as well. There are light yellow spots across all of rear bumper under clear coat. Does anyone know if the bumpers are painted at a sub contractor facility and then installed at factory? This was very disappointing after waiting for delivery on a $50k explorer. I'm stuck in the same situation of maybe not being able to match color versus just leaving as is.

Does anyone else have a driver's door that seems a little tough to close? I drive a Raptor with large doors that seem to close with a lot less effort. I haven't had much time to look into it, but maybe a simple mechanical setting?

Obviously, I've already noticed the soot on tail pipes and even on rear white surfaces. From what I've read that is common and ok?

I look fwd to reading more on this forum and doing a few minor mods like new lighting (HID heads and LEDs pretty much every else) and front window tint to match rear. Other than that, I like it just the way it is, except of course for the poor QA at factory on the paint defect. Very disappointing.


Clay bar will likely remove orange spots, there are a few links about it.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=382701

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=382300

Orange paint contamination fully explained by Ford.
TSB 04-9-6 discusses properly neutralizing the surface of specified Ford models.
This procedure is still in use today and is part of the labeling on Motorcraft Detail Wash.

The orange spots are "normal" but should be cleaned off in such a way as to neutralize the surface of the paint.

(this text came from a PDF via Adobe software, which may have left some letters out here and there, or some words will appear incomplete.)

BODY-PAlNT-IRON PARTICLE REMOVALINDUSTRIAL
FALLOUT-ACID RAIN
NEUTRALIZATION
Article No.
04·9·6

FORD: 2004-2005 CROWN VICTORIA, ESCORT ZX2, FOCUS, MUSTANG, TAURUS,
THUNDERBIRD
2005 FIVE HUNDRED, FORD GT
2004-2005 ECONOLlNE, ESCAPE, EXCURSION, EXPEDITION,
EXPLORER SPORT TRAC, EXPLORER, F SUPER DUTY, FREESTAR,
.RANGER, F SERIES, F-650, F-750 .

LINCOLN: 2004-2005 LS, TOWN CAR, AVIATOR, NAVIGATOR
MERCURY: 2004-2005 GRAND MARQUIS, SABLE
2005 MONTEGO

2004-2005 MONTEREY, MOUNTAINEER
2005 MARINER

This article supersedes TSB 99-12-10 to update the
vehicle lines, model years and service procedure.

ISSUE
Ford Motor Company has released a private labeled
material to be used for iron particle/acid rain service
r"> repairs.

ACTION
To remove these particles/contaminates, use ONLY
the following Motorcraft products and procedure. No
poiishing, compounding, color sanding, or repainting
should be done before this procedure is performed.
This procedure uses products that are acidic,
alkaline, and neutral and must be property mixed
and used in their specific order. Refer to the
following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
NOTE
ANY CHANGES TO THIS PROCEDURE WILL
CAUSE AN INCOMPLETE OR UNSATISFACTORY
REPAIR. THE USE OF ANY OTHER PRODUCT
OR PROCEDURE MAY CAUSE DAMAGE TO
ALUMINUM OR PAINTED SURFACES.
~
THE PRODUCTS USED TO REMOVE SURFACE
CONTAMINATION FROM PAINT ARE DESIGNED
FOR VEHICLES, WHICH HAVE EXPERIENCED
EXPOSURE FOR LESS THAN 120 DAYS.
VEHICLES THAT EXCEED 120 DAYS OF
EXPOSURE MAY REQUIRE THE PROCEDURE
BE REPEATED TO RESOLVE THE CONCERN.
ONCE THIS PROCEDURE IS COMPLETED, IT
MAY BE NECESSARY TO PERFORM POLISHING
OR REFINISHING PROCEDURES AFTER
VEHICLE INSPECTION.

IDENTIFICATION
Ferrous metal particles (hot iron dust) are generated
by manufacturing facilities, rail shipments, etc.
Moisture and heat combine with particles to create
a chemical reaction. This reaction creates an acid,
causing the iron to corrode and etch into the paint
surface. Additionally, industrial fallout and acid rain
generate corrosive compounds that fall on the
vehicle's painted surfaces. When subjected to
moisture and temperature, chemical compounds are
created that etch the paint surface. To assist in
identifying surface contamination, use a
(Tandy-Radio Shack #63-851 ) 30x iighted magnifier.
NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins Is intended for use by trained, ~rofessional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to dothe job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by "do-n-youreeltere".

Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a Ford, Lincoln, or Mercury dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to yourvehide. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan documentation determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage unless stated otherwise in the TSB article.The information in this Technical Service BUlletin
(TSB) was current at the time of printing.

Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supercede this infonnation with updates.The most recent lnfonnation is
available through Ford Motor Company's on-line technical resources.
Copyright © 2004 Ford Motor Company
064798

PAGE 25
IArticle No. 04-9-6 Cont'd.
CONCERN DESCRIPTION
Ferrous Metal
Light Colored Vehicles: Small orange stains the
size of "mechanical pencil lead." The surface is
rough to the touch.

Dark Colored Vehicles: Small white or silver
appearing dots with a rainbow ring around the
dot. The surface is rough to the touch.
Industrial Fallout
• Water spots containing ferrous metal are present
and the surface is rough to the touch.
Acid Rain/Etching
Surface will exhibit irregular discolored spotting.
Dark colored vehicles may exhibit cloudy or
graying spots where the acid has begun to etch
the paint.
Extreme cases of etching may be felt.

DECONTAMINATION PROCEDURE
Use Motorcraft Acid Neutralizer, Alkaline Neutralizer,
and Detail Wash to decontaminate and neutralize
the paint surface. Perform the procedure only on
vehicle when the paint surface temperature is cool.
Follow the step-by-step procedure listed below to
perform this service operation.

1. Rinse off dust, dirt, and debris with cold water.
Flush liberally.
2. Prepare Motorcraft Acid Neutralizer by mixing
eight (8) parts of water to one (1) part Acid
Neutralizer in a bucket. .
3. Wear gloves and use a clean wash mitt to
apply mixture of Motorcraft Acid Neutralizer to
the entire vehicle starting at the top of the
vehicle working toward the side. Work fast and
keep the vehicle wet with solution, lightly
agitating and moving quickly around the vehicle
repeatedly for five to seven (5-7) minutes. For
vehicles with severe conditions, work the
product for up to eight (8) minutes.
NOTE
USE A SEPARATE MITT FOR EACH PRODUCT.
DO NOT INTERMIX MITTS.
4. Rinse the vehicle thoroughly with cold water to
remove Motorcraft Acid Neutralizer.
5. Dry only the horizontal surfaces of the vehicle
at this time. Do not dry glass.
PAGE 26
NOTE
MOTORCRAFT ALKALINE NIEUTRALIZERIS
READY TO USE. DO NOT MIX WITH WATER. DO
NOT SPRAY MOTORCRAFT ALKALINE
NEUTRALIZER ON THE PAINTED SURFACE.
6. Pour the Alkaline Neutralizer into a dispenser
(squirt bottle). Squirt the neutralizer directly onto
a clean wash mitt. Apply the product to the
vehicle, keeping the areas wet and lightly
agitated for five to seven (5-7) minutes. For
vehicles with severe conditions, work the
product for up to eight (8) minutes.
7. Rinse the vehicle thoroughly with cold water.
8. Prepare Motorcraft Detail Wash by mixing 29.5
mL (1 ounce) of Detail Wash to 3.7 L (1 gallon)
of water.
9. Shampoo the vehicle with Motorcraft Detail
Wash using a clean wash mitt. Rinse the
vehicle with cold water and dry the vehicle
completely.
SURFACE CORRECTION FOLLOWING
DECONTAMINATlON/NEUTRALIZATION
1. Visually inspect paint surface for evidence of
removal of ferrous metal particles and water
spots.
NOTE
ACiiJ'RAIN DISCOLORING OR ETCHING WILL
REQUIRE ADDITIONAL PROCEDURES
DEPENDENT ON DEPTH OF DAMAGE;
POLISHING, BUFFING, COLOR SANDING, OR IN
EXTREME CASES, REFINISHING.
2. DO NOT intermix buffing products. Use only
one manufacturer's products.
3. Always follow the manufacturer's product usage
sequence. Use the appropriate recommended
pad at recommended buffing speeds as
specified by the product manufacturer.
NOTE
WHEN ATTEMPTING TO AFFECT A REPAIR BY
BUFFING, POLISHING, OR COLOR SANDING, DO
NOT REMOVE AN EXCESS OF 0.3 MIL OF
PAINT FILM OR REFINISHING WILL BE
REQUIRED. USE OF AN ELIECTRONIC MIL
GAUGE (ROTUNDA 164-R4025) IS HIGHLY
RECOMMENDED TO INSURIE CONTROL OF .:»
PAINT FILM REMOVAL.
-
-
4. Use a dual action sander with a Velcro backing
plate and foam pad to fine polish and remove
any swirls created by a rotary buffer or pad.
5. Use an alcohol and water mixture (1 to 1 ratio)
to clean the buffed areas and to verify removal
of scratches and swirls before application of the
final polish.
PART NUMBER PART NAME
ZC-1-A Motorcraft Acid Neutralizer
ZC-2-A Motorcraft Alkaline Neutralizer
ZC-3-A Motorcraft Detail Wash
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Provisions Of
New Vehicle Limited
Warranty Coverage
Article No. 04·9·6 Cont'd. I
PAGE 27
 



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The problem is that the OP stated these spots are under the clearcoat and therefore are a factory defect.

Peter
 






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