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Sub Woofer and Amp

As for the total system power, the 390 watts is divided between all locations. Now remember, this is not real power. A system rated at 390 watts could equate to an actual 150 watts

The system is actually rated at 390 watts RMS, which means that the continuous actual power should be at or better than 390. This would put the peak power on the system at about 500 watts (give or take depending on the efficiency of the amp/speakers).
 



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The system is actually rated at 390 watts RMS, which means that the continuous actual power should be at or better than 390. This would put the peak power on the system at about 500 watts (give or take depending on the efficiency of the amp/speakers).

ehhhh, I don't know about that. The picture you supplied and the Ford web site state "390 watts of power". It does not state those ratings are for continuous power or RMS! Sony is notorious for over stating delivered power amounts with both home and car electronics. And having seen the amp in the Explorer and I would say 390 watts is a peak rating. The 9 channel amp is very small in size which means it most likely uses integrated chips in the output stage. Those chips rarely can provide adequate current for high output. Unless it can be found from a respected source that the 390 watts is continuous power/RMS, don't believe the hype!!!!

The only thing the amp has going for it is that is seems to be able to drive extremely low loads (below 2-ohm), which means it can deliver current quickly in hopes of reproducing music with some accuracy. But that really has very little to do with how much power it provides.

And even if the amp is 390 watts of continuous power into 9 channels, at best you are talking less than 40 watts of power to drive a subwoofer unless the amp has seperate chips (see statement earlier about chips) for that channel. 40w + 40w is not going to give the JL subwoofer the kind of power it needs to perform. In fact, some drivers can be damaged more by being under powered than over powered. So you run that risk as well.
 






I believe that document is from the Taurus... which does have two 6x9 subwoofers in the back deck.

The Explorer most definitely has 1 subwoofer
The document is definitely not from the Taurus. It was released for the 2011 Explorer and explains all the new functions, but I agree that there is only one actual subwoofer.
I like the sound as it is and now I get to listen to Sirius for another year. Just renewed for a total of $67.71 (CDN).

Peter
 






I can only speak to my system Sony system which should be the same as all other Sony setups... there is NOT two subwoofers. There is a single 8-inch sub in the rear quarter panel on the passenger side. The speaker in the dash is not a sub as previously suggested.

Peterk9, the document you were provided is either wrong, or worded very poorly. As VinceL stated (again why am I always posting AFTER him :)) the subwoofer is a dual voicecoil so both right and left channels are played through one driver.

As for the total system power, the 390 watts is divided between all locations. The sub driver it rated at 60 watts per channel so it could be sucking about half of the total systems power. Now remember, this is not real power. A system rated at 390 watts could equate to an actual 150 watts, then take that and divide it between 9 channels and you get about 16 watts or so. Which is about what normal car systems push out. Low-end car systems push about 5-10 watts. Companies take big leaps when the state power. Ever wonder how those tiny computer speaker systems have 1500 watts of power? The speaker wire they supply you with would burst into flames if that much power was sent through it. Not to mention the power supply limits that one home electrical outlet can supply… ok back on track.

majicmic the stock amp will power the JL box, but not very well. You would need to get a dedicated amp. And for the amount of money that setup would cost, there are better options, IMO.

What other options are out there or what do you suggest?
 






What other options are out there or what do you suggest?

Someone already provided a link to a thread I started, and I believe I listed some options over there.

It my opinion that a driver upgrade will help tighten up the bass and extend the bottom end a bit with no other upgrades. If you are looking for some serious, hard hitting bass, I would suggest a cabinet loaded with a 10 or 12 inch driver. However, I would suggest a cabinet that can be secured to the carog are when in use, but easily removed should the extra cargo space be needed.

JL makes some great driver, but I think they are $$$. If you want some amazing performance at an amzing value check these drivers out.
TC Sounds Epic 10"
Hi-Vi 10"
Elemental Design


As for cabinets, you can get as plain or as wild as you want.
Plain Jane
Something unique and cheap to build if you at all handy


...then just add an amp.
 






Peterk9, the document you were provided is either wrong, or worded very poorly. As VinceL stated (again why am I always posting AFTER him :)) the subwoofer is a dual voicecoil so both right and left channels are played through one driver.

LOL deewan. I am but your humble student. You will notice that pretty much all I do is refer to you, your thread, or something that you said on your thread, haha :)
 






ehhhh, I don't know about that. The picture you supplied and the Ford web site state "390 watts of power".

Ford's media release on My Ford Touch (including the details of the sony 12 speaker system) http://media.ford.com/images/10031/MyFord_English_LR.pdf ..
390rms.png


And even if the amp is 390 watts of continuous power into 9 channels, at best you are talking less than 40 watts of power to drive a subwoofer unless the amp has separate chips

While it is pushing 9 channels I would assume that the split is somewhere around 140 to the sub, and 250 to the other 8 speakers... 140 rms is decent, but is still under the lowest recommended power supply by JLAudio, so it isn't enough to push that sub. You are also correct on Sony overstating, so the 140 is more like a 100-120 which is by far under the minimum 150 (and FAR BELOW the maximum 500 recommended by JLAudio)
 






That's the first I've seen the RMS stated. I wonder why Ford don't state it in the book or on their web site when looking under the features of the Explorer.

The sub driver is only rated at 60 wpc. If we are to take Sony's word that the system puts out 390 total watts, and they are pumping as much power into the sub channels as possible within their own guidelines, the sub is only getting 120 of the 390 watts (60 wpc).
 






the sub is only getting 120 of the 390 watts (60 wpc).

wow my 140 guess was pretty close having no knowledge of the subs specs :) So yeah, by far not enough power to get to the 150 minimum required by the JL sub
 






So I just read through this thread, found out a lot of good info. My wife is complaining that her Sony system doesn't put out any bass unless it's cranked, she's hoping for a little bit more bass, nothing crazy. Can I just upgrade the factory sub and be done, or do I need to go more into it? I looked into the JL Stealth but at $600 for just a sub and box, forget it. Hoping you guys/gals can point me in the right direction.
 






A new sub driver will help, but ultimately it comes down to power and a quality driver. Just to be certain, you have adjusted the bass settings in the stereo?
 






I have tried adjusting the settings, and even with the bass all the way up it still doesn't seem to do much. I read the sub is an 8"? I'll look into a little better driver and see if that works
 






Which stereo package do you have? With the Sony Limited setup, the sub isn't that great for quality, but I have the bass nowhere near being maxed out and at some points it's a bit much.

I'm curious if your bass requirements may be a little more than normal. If that is the case, you will need more power and a better (or bigger) driver. Likely in an external box and not in the stock cabinet.
 






I have the Sony system. Everyone has their own opinions on what is enough or not, hoping to squeeze a little bit more out of only updating the driver.
 






I understand everyone has their own taste. But you made the comment that with the bass turned all the way up it doesn't seem to do much. If that is how you feel about the current Sony system, simply replacing the driver will only tighten or clean up the bass. It won't add more boom. There is no replacement for displacement and the OEM amp will only power a driver so far.
 






Custom Subwoofer Enclosure for Explorer

A friend of mine had the JL 10" sealed Stealthbox and a JL amp installed in a 2014 Sport and after listening to it, I was not wowed and figured I could do better on my own for less money.

For those of you who have to have the peace of mind of a spare tire, this is not an option for you. I have tow coverage with my insurance and road side service so going without a spare in the rare occasion of a flat is worth it to have a lot better sound. Also, with cell phones, I can have someone bring me a spare if I couldn't find my insurance folks.

So my system will include the Audio Control LC2i to provide RCA jacks and remote amp turn on to a Rockford Fosgate T500-1bdcp 500 watt mono amp to a JL 12W3v3-2 to my custom ported enclosure. Took me about a day and a half to construct. 44 pieces of trapezoid shaped pieces to form the circle.

Finishing the install over Thanksgiving.

Subwooferbox_zps8f01a80e.jpg
 






A friend of mine had the JL 10" sealed Stealthbox and a JL amp installed in a 2014 Sport and after listening to it, I was not wowed and figured I could do better on my own for less money.

For those of you who have to have the peace of mind of a spare tire, this is not an option for you. I have tow coverage with my insurance and road side service so going without a spare in the rare occasion of a flat is worth it to have a lot better sound. Also, with cell phones, I can have someone bring me a spare if I couldn't find my insurance folks.

So my system will include the Audio Control LC2i to provide RCA jacks and remote amp turn on to a Rockford Fosgate T500-1bdcp 500 watt mono amp to a JL 12W3v3-2 to my custom ported enclosure. Took me about a day and a half to construct. 44 pieces of trapezoid shaped pieces to form the circle.

Finishing the install over Thanksgiving.

Good option for those that don't need the spare. I assume you have your third row seats up or in the stow position all the time? Having them lay flat for a larger storage space would muffle that sub and give it no room to breath.
 






...wondering if the stock amp is strong enough of if I need an aftermarket one.

No. The Stealthbox will require a lot more power than the stock amp is capable of providing.

Tony
 






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