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Aftermarket wheels

Ben Sport's wheels and tires

OMG, those wheels and tires are sick! Please post some more pics of your truck with that set up please. I have been checking this forum practically every day waiting for you to post pics of your rims and tires. Finally!!!
PM me with the details. I would like to know where you purchased them and what brand of tires you are rolling on.
How is the ride? Any problems?
Looks amazing brother keep up the good work. I want that exact set up if your pleased with it.
 



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Did you read them? They all come to the same conclusion. Outside diameter. If you achieve the same diameter then the rest is just theory until proven otherwise. Show me one example of someone damaging their transmission caused by a staggered setup within tolerance.

You are not going to damage the transmission. There are only two things you could have issues with. The differential on an AWD vehicle, and the traction control system on all newer vehicles. In general, if you can keep the rolling diameter within 1-2%, it should be OK (I don't recommend it, but if you do it, stick to this range). The generally accepted spec is typically 3%, but that is too much on modern cars with advanced traction control systems and differentials.

Most traction control systems perform some function at around 5% of detected wheel slip, and starting with over half that at 3% is too much. As far as the differential, same thing, but more of a mechanical concept. The differential(s) are looking for wheel slip. More detected slip (i.e. different rolling diameters) will cause more wear on the differential as it is constantly trying to compensate for that difference in rolling diameter (seen as wheel slip). Obviously the closer in size the F/R wheels/tires are, the less wear you will see. Again, keeping the tires in that 1-2% is not going to cause immediate problems, but possibly long-term ones if that is a concern for you.

There are two other dynamics that are not covered by the above. There are several high performance AWD vehicles that do come with staggered wheels/tires, and in those cases, the traction control is tuned for those specific differences, as is the locking action/power distribution of the differential. That is obviously not the case for a vehicle that comes from the factory with non-staggered wheels/tires. The other part is handling dynamics. This is maybe not all that important on a non-performance vehicle like the Explorer, but wider rear wheels generally induce more understeer. From a performance standpoint, most people would consider this undesirable. Also, stating the obvious here, you lose the ability to rotate your tires....

The moral of the story is that you can do it if you follow a few key rules in terms of rolling diameter, but there are some possible adverse effects whether one wants to acknowledge them or not. It's definitely not going to ruin your car in 6 months if done right, but like most things you do to your car, you should be aware of all the factors related to such changes.

Edit: The 265/40/22 and 285/40/22 setup on 22x9"/10.5" is just over 2%, and probably close to the acceptable range (again, I would normally recommend under 2%, but it's close). The difference on that setup is 2.1% on the tires alone, and maybe a little lower with the extra few mm's of stretch on the rear tires (20mm's of tire stretched over an extra 38mm's of wheel)....
 






OMG, those wheels and tires are sick! Please post some more pics of your truck with that set up please. I have been checking this forum practically every day waiting for you to post pics of your rims and tires. Finally!!!
PM me with the details. I would like to know where you purchased them and what brand of tires you are rolling on.
How is the ride? Any problems?
Looks amazing brother keep up the good work. I want that exact set up if your pleased with it.

Thanks Billy.

It took a bit longer as Toyo was back ordered on the rear tires and the wheels are made to order according to the specs submitted. I was not aggressive on the offset because if I had rubbing issues I would be stuck with them - So I went conservative and ended up using spacers to achieve what I wanted in the end. The rear wheels is slightly making contact over major potholes with the inside area of the inner fender trim, but I should be able to trim that area to alleviate this. If I were to do it all over again, I would have been more aggressive with the offset now that I know that the contact in the fender is minimal and can be addressed.

If you run the same setup without any spacers there is absolutely zero rubbing or any issues at all.

That being said, here is the route I went with:

Forgestar F-14's - Forged because I am against "upgrading" to heavy wheels.
22x10.5 +45 offset Deep Concave (Could have went +35 or more)
22x9.0 +45 offset Semi Concave (+35 probably would have been perfect)
Gloss Gunmetal

Toyo Proxes II
285/40/22
265/40/22

Less tire, more wheel and lowered means more road noise. Keep that in mind.

9X1HPD.jpg


Mbv6E9.jpg
 






Thanks Billy.

It took a bit longer as Toyo was back ordered on the rear tires and the wheels are made to order according to the specs submitted. I was not aggressive on the offset because if I had rubbing issues I would be stuck with them - So I went conservative and ended up using spacers to achieve what I wanted in the end. The rear wheels is slightly making contact over major potholes with the inside area of the inner fender trim, but I should be able to trim that area to alleviate this. If I were to do it all over again, I would have been more aggressive with the offset now that I know that the contact in the fender is minimal and can be addressed.

If you run the same setup without any spacers there is absolutely zero rubbing or any issues at all.

That being said, here is the route I went with:

Forgestar F-14's - Forged because I am against "upgrading" to heavy wheels.
22x10.5 +45 offset Deep Concave (Could have went +35 or more)
22x9.0 +45 offset Semi Concave (+35 probably would have been perfect)
Gloss Gunmetal

Toyo Proxes II
285/40/22
265/40/22

Less tire, more wheel and lowered means more road noise. Keep that in mind.

What size spacers are you running in the pics?
 






Thanks Billy.

It took a bit longer as Toyo was back ordered on the rear tires and the wheels are made to order according to the specs submitted. I was not aggressive on the offset because if I had rubbing issues I would be stuck with them - So I went conservative and ended up using spacers to achieve what I wanted in the end. The rear wheels is slightly making contact over major potholes with the inside area of the inner fender trim, but I should be able to trim that area to alleviate this. If I were to do it all over again, I would have been more aggressive with the offset now that I know that the contact in the fender is minimal and can be addressed.

If you run the same setup without any spacers there is absolutely zero rubbing or any issues at all.

That being said, here is the route I went with:

Forgestar F-14's - Forged because I am against "upgrading" to heavy wheels.
22x10.5 +45 offset Deep Concave (Could have went +35 or more)
22x9.0 +45 offset Semi Concave (+35 probably would have been perfect)
Gloss Gunmetal

Toyo Proxes II
285/40/22
265/40/22

Less tire, more wheel and lowered means more road noise. Keep that in

Lose the roof rack and you'll have perfection!
 






What size spacers are you running in the pics?

25mm rear
20mm front

I think 20mm for rear would be ok. I liked that little bit of push with the 25mm though. Looks like I just need to replace the bolts that hold on the fender trim with button head bolts to get away from the minor rub. If I went with 20mm, probably would not have needed to do this, but replacing those bolts is pretty simple.

Front 10-15mm would have been ok. Again, I liked the little bit of poke - no issues on the front at all.
 






Lose the roof rack and you'll have perfection!

I am still on the fence on that modification. I've seen some photos of this mod done, and in some of the images it just didn't seem to look right.

I've got running boards just sitting in a box too. Still not sure if I want to run them or not. Did not want to go through the hassle of installing them unless I am somewhat certain I will like the way they look on there.
 






I am still on the fence on that modification. I've seen some photos of this mod done, and in some of the images it just didn't seem to look right.

I've got running boards just sitting in a box too. Still not sure if I want to run them or not. Did not want to go through the hassle of installing them unless I am somewhat certain I will like the way they look on there.

If the 6th gen removal is anything like the 3rd gen, you can have it off in 15 min. Personally, I think you'd love it especially with your stance and wheels as it will look more like a "Sport."
 






If the 6th gen removal is anything like the 3rd gen, you can have it off in 15 min. Personally, I think you'd love it especially with your stance and wheels as it will look more like a "Sport."

Thanks. I will probably try it out after I order the Interceptor parts so I can do it the right way.
 






You are not going to damage the transmission. There are only two things you could have issues with. The differential on an AWD vehicle, and the traction control system on all newer vehicles. In general, if you can keep the rolling diameter within 1-2%, it should be OK (I don't recommend it, but if you do it, stick to this range). The generally accepted spec is typically 3%, but that is too much on modern cars with advanced traction control systems and differentials.

Most traction control systems perform some function at around 5% of detected wheel slip, and starting with over half that at 3% is too much. As far as the differential, same thing, but more of a mechanical concept. The differential(s) are looking for wheel slip. More detected slip (i.e. different rolling diameters) will cause more wear on the differential as it is constantly trying to compensate for that difference in rolling diameter (seen as wheel slip). Obviously the closer in size the F/R wheels/tires are, the less wear you will see. Again, keeping the tires in that 1-2% is not going to cause immediate problems, but possibly long-term ones if that is a concern for you.

There are two other dynamics that are not covered by the above. There are several high performance AWD vehicles that do come with staggered wheels/tires, and in those cases, the traction control is tuned for those specific differences, as is the locking action/power distribution of the differential. That is obviously not the case for a vehicle that comes from the factory with non-staggered wheels/tires. The other part is handling dynamics. This is maybe not all that important on a non-performance vehicle like the Explorer, but wider rear wheels generally induce more understeer. From a performance standpoint, most people would consider this undesirable. Also, stating the obvious here, you lose the ability to rotate your tires....

The moral of the story is that you can do it if you follow a few key rules in terms of rolling diameter, but there are some possible adverse effects whether one wants to acknowledge them or not. It's definitely not going to ruin your car in 6 months if done right, but like most things you do to your car, you should be aware of all the factors related to such changes.

Edit: The 265/40/22 and 285/40/22 setup on 22x9"/10.5" is just over 2%, and probably close to the acceptable range (again, I would normally recommend under 2%, but it's close). The difference on that setup is 2.1% on the tires alone, and maybe a little lower with the extra few mm's of stretch on the rear tires (20mm's of tire stretched over an extra 38mm's of wheel)....

Sounds legit! Thanks for the info. Biggest thing for me is loosing ability to do easy rotates... I'll likely keep tires same size around all 4 corners for that reason alone.
 






25mm rear
20mm front

I think 20mm for rear would be ok. I liked that little bit of push with the 25mm though. Looks like I just need to replace the bolts that hold on the fender trim with button head bolts to get away from the minor rub. If I went with 20mm, probably would not have needed to do this, but replacing those bolts is pretty simple.

Front 10-15mm would have been ok. Again, I liked the little bit of poke - no issues on the front at all.

Thanks for the info. Good to know. The Explorer looks great with the F14's (don't love Forgestar as a company, but I can't deny the wheels look fantastic).
 






Thanks for the info. Good to know. The Explorer looks great with the F14's (don't love Forgestar as a company, but I can't deny the wheels look fantastic).

Yeah, I feel you on that. I won't go into details here. I've been in the Automotive Industry for about 20 years.. so I think I know what you are talking about.

I went with them because of the price I can get through my channels. I had other options, but just too expensive.
 













I like those a lot. And the white painted molding running along the bottom. With the white molding most Ex's appear to be lowered a bit, even if they are not.
 






Nice looking wheels , I agree that the white molding gives a nice look. But this HRE explorer is lowered btw.
 






That doesn't scream minivan to anyone else? The current gen is already pretty soft-road looking as it is.
 






Are those 22's? They look a tad too small. Almost like 20's
 












That doesn't scream minivan to anyone else? The current gen is already pretty soft-road looking as it is.

If it were, I would finally look into buying a minivan. :)
 



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Undecided on the white-out. Leaning OEM look.

The wheels are nice, but with the 22's the calipers and discs look tiny and I can't help but focus on how small the brake set-up is by comparison.

I'd have to do a brake job with those 22's.
 






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