remove timing cover

[94 green explore]

I have 94 exp and I need to remove the timing cover. Do I HAVE to remove the oil pan to remove the timing cover?

I broke a water pump bolt. The one almost behind the crank pulley/harmonic balancer. I drilled the broken bolt and was using the screw extractor and it broke also. I have tried a few different methods and screwed up the hole and flange for the bolt hole. The local JY wants 35 for the timing cover but I have to remove it which I do not mind but just do not want to remover the oil pan at the jy.

I have searched yesterday and today but could not find that answer.

Thank you for your help.

 

[natenkiki2004]

You don't have to remove the oil pan at the junkyard if you're just grabbing the timing cover. It's advised to remove the oil pan so you don't knock crud in there and so you can replace the oil pan gasket at the same time. Take a look at this and you'll see:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2881779&postcount=33

 

[94 green explore]

natenkiki -- Thank you for the fast response. I liked your post with pictures. Did you use Permatex ultra copper to seal between the timing cover and the oil pan? I guessing that is what the orange stuff is.

What about the timing tensioner and pieces? Can I change just those and leave the chain and gears alone? I have not removed the time cover yet.

 

[natenkiki2004]

I can't take credit for those pictures, I didn't do that job. But, ask me again after this weekend and I'll know I'm yanking the oil pan, timing cover and replacing the timing components and a whole bunch of gaskets & seals. From what I read, the author did use the Permatex Ultra Copper but it looks like it's on the outside. There's a molded oil pan gasket that you have to use. It looks silly to me and I'd rather just goop it up with The Right Stuff from Permatex but the engineers designed this so I'll take their word.

As far as the tensioner, I think that goes on first, then the gears then the chain. I could be wrong though. Read through that thread that the post I linked came from, it's very helpful.

 

[94 green explore]

I just read thru "fast_dave" complete post and you correct, it is very informative and helpful. I am wondering, why not JUST use the ultra copper for the timing cover and/or water pump?

 

[natenkiki2004]

For the timing cover and water pump, you're right, it's just flat metal. I'd be tempted to do that as well. But I think the gasket works better. You can coat it on both sides though. My thought is that maybe the gasket holds together better and provides structure while the goop provides the sealant. I'm going to be tempted on mine to apply a thin coat over the top of the outside of both surfaces. I'll be super pissed if my leaks continue after I put all this work into it. Again, there's something to be said for how the engineers designed it.

 

[steelynirvana]

Has anyone found a way to pull the oil pan without having to pull the engine yet?

 

[natenkiki2004]

Has anyone found a way to pull the oil pan without having to pull the engine yet?

Ford already describes a way in the factory service manual. I scanned the relevant page for you:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/464376/vehicles/1991 Explorer/FSM/Oil Pan Removal.jpg

Problem is, you pretty much have to do everything BUT actually lift the engine out. If you reach the last step in those instructions, you may as well lift the engine out of the vehicle and perform the work easily on a stand.

Having gone through this myself, looking back, I'm glad I pulled the engine. I left the trans and exhaust in-place. This allowed me to replace the motor mounts (one was damaged by ATF from the power steering leaking) and I got to do other work easily at the same time. I had to fight the engine and trans while on my back on the ground but doing the tedious work on the engine was made enjoyable by having it on a stand.

Here's the page on engine removal:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/464376/vehicles/1991 Explorer/FSM/Engine Removal.jpg