wannadrag
Member
- Joined
- November 9, 2013
- Messages
- 16
- Reaction score
- 1
- City, State
- simi valley ca
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2014 xlt
Hello, my name is bryan and a new member to this forum.
I'm sorry my first post has to be a negative one, as I do love the new explorer.
I purchased an 2011 explorer certified pre owned with 29000 miles december30th 2012, I also purchased extended warranty through ford.
1 month of driving I noticed a knocking sound on the bottom end of the motor, most noticeable when pulling from a dead stop. I found it knocks between 700 and 1100 rpm.
I took it to the dealer where I purchased it from at 31392 miles.
I wanted them to address the low end knock, driver side window chattering , sync upgrade ,wind noise on drivers door at highway speed. and intermittent brake squeal while in reverse.
I got the car back 29 days later, they replaced the short block due to a knocking #5 cyl wrist pin, replaced driver side window motor, upgraded sync, resealed A pillar molding trim, and said they could not replicate brake squeal.
The low end knock was now gone, and now has valve train tic/tapping noise, window still shudders, still has wind noise at highway speeds, and still intermittently squeals while in reverse.
I was told ticking sound is normal, although it didn't do it prior to short block replacement. Nor did this car make any noise before I bought it or I would not have purchased it.
Upon leaving dealer I had to fuel up, I noticed the spoiler on both sides was loose so I clipped them in, I also found the oil filter on loose so I tightened it 3/4 of a turn. I contacted service advisor and he thanked me for letting him know.
My wife was pregnant at this time so the car didn't get to much use, mostly around town. she informed me that while pulling an extended grade the car would lose power A/C would cut out and the check engine light would flash, also the transmission would hang up in gear then shift real hard.
It happened to me while driving and verified the same thing. I scanned for DTC's using my laptop and AE with the ford bundle, I came up with a micro thermal module on the HVAC circuit.
At 34791 miles I took it to the same dealer I informed them of the loss of power, hard shifting, ticking/tapping coming from the valve train, a broken positive battery cover that had been broken on the last visit, and a missing bumper on the rear hatch. They had my car 15 days.
They replace the transmission valve body separator plate, unable to duplicate the tapping/ticking sound from valve train, fixed broken battery cover and replaced the missing bumper on the rear hatch.
The car now shifts better tan any time I've owned it, ticking/tapping still happening, and the car is still intermittently flashing check eng light on grades.
We took the car to San Francisco, and it ran great up there and while we were there, I thought the problem had cured itself. On the way down central valley I look in my side view mirror to see my keyless entey panel flapping in the wind, I pullover and was able to reattach it but it had gotten scraped while flapping in the wind. very disappointed at how a panel on a 50000 car is attached with double sided stickey tape.
while coming up the grape vine which is a very steep and long grade, I lose power, I move over to the slow lane, barely, and the car regains power, the transmission then hangs up in 3rd, after reaching the summit I had to put in neutral, then to manual upshift then the transmission regained it's normal function.
Upon arriving home I hooked up my lap top and pulled code p0300,p0301,p0305, all associated with engine misfire specifically cyl 1,and 5.
Dropped off car at same dealer at 37310 miles I informed them of loss of power and the codes that I had pulled, that the valve train tick/tap was still present, the key less entry panel delamination, that the my temp light on the A/C had burnt out or was no longer illuminating, and that the drivers door seemed misaligned to the front fender.
They had the car 10 days.
Dealer claims that they cannot find the DTC's that I had pulled, they replaced keyless entry panel (it was on a recall) they compared the my temp light to two other like cars in their lot and claimed lack of that light operation normal(I found out later on this forum that the light goes away when the sync is upgraded), found the outer fender skirt warped causing the appearance of a misaligned door(replaced fender skirt and retainers)
Service advisor claims that a tech took my car up the grade 4 times driven quote " like it was stolen" and could not replicate the loss of power that I have complained about
when I picked up my car I brought my lap top and pulled up all the PID'S associated with engine misfire, I showed the service advisor that there were 10 start stop cycles since last misfire event to show him that I was not hallucinating I brought the service advisor out to hear the ticking/tapping that they can never seem to duplicate in the shop. It seems most noticeable when parked next to a wall or large vehicle, it seems to resonate off of other objects. I operate and work on diesels so I guess my hearing is fined tuned to hearing noises on top of other noise.
As I pulled out of the dealership, laptop hooked up I didn't even get to the freeway and had 18 misfire events. I proceeded to the grade, by the bottom of the grade I had 59 misfire events, as I pulled the grade a mile into it the car lost power A/c cuts out, check engine light flashes. I call dealer to tell them that I am bringing it back. As I pulled in I m greeted by the tech, it was too late for him to go on a ride along with me so that I could show him what's happening, butt he actually blames my soft ware for causing these problems, I inform him that these issues arose before this car had even seen my software. His response "oh". I even hooked up a normal $100 scanner from autozone to show him the codes that HIS software could not find.
I then tell him I'm upset that I was lied to. I put on 26 mile going up the grade and back. My vehicle had only 9 miles from when it was dropped off to when I picked It up. I was told it went up the grade 4 times. I was very specific when I told the service advisor that the problem only happens on an extended grade.
So I'm guessing a tech took my car for a joyride on the local farm road flogging it to try to duplicate my issues, the tech even admitted to me that he hadn't taken the car on the grade. Needless to say I was furious.
Rather than cause a scene at the dealership I chose to go home and cool off.
I then decide to contact the service manager via online, no response, I called his direct line, no response.
The service advisor called me within minutes, he told me that now they have retrieved the DTC codes, I inform him that since they are going to have my car for another extended period that I want the ticking/tapping taken care of(I give him 4 TSB's related to the valve train ticking), I also want the window chatter on both drivers and passengers door taken care of.
They have the car another 8 days.
They reflashed the PCM and did a 133 mile road test,runs ok at this time.
They changed both window motors and regulators, but left tape residue on my windows related to the removal and replacement of regulators and motors, and a glue substance and tape on my leather seats and they scratched the drivers window on installing motor and regulator.
They did nothing for the ticking sound coming from valve train.
At this point I'm just happy the car no longer losses power, my wife's now had our child and she's started work at children's hospital L.A, so I haven't pressed the issue of fixing the valve tick I simply don't have time to take it to the dealer for them to not repair the issue.
I would rather have the problem resolved sooner than later, I figure at 60 70000 miles they'll come up with a reason that its somehow my fault for the noise, due to me not pouring in the oil correctly, etc.
Now nov 8th I did change the oil, guess what? my lower end engine knock is back. also found the exhaust hanger behind the catalytic converter completely detached, and the clamp from catalytic converter to exhaust pipe completely loose.
Did they lie to me in saying they replaced the bottom end? It seems suspect after an oil change my problem is back(5-20 ford synthetic blend, ford filter)
Maybe they put in an oil additive, or thicker viscosity oil to tame the noise.
They billed ford for a new short block, and would not let me see my old short block claiming they had shipped it back to ford for inspection, because they hadn't seen this particular problem on the 3.5's
I refuse to go to the same dealer.
dose anyone know if this car would qualify under lemon law?
would ford be willing to help me get this thing fixed once and for all by referring me to a dealer competent to handle the repairs that I am asking for?
Or could ford give me a credit or rebate for the purchase of a new explorer?
I do love the explorer, but this one has been in the shop for 25% of the time I've owned it (61 days)
I know ford has a great customer care presence on this website, please help me. Thank you Bryan
I'm sorry my first post has to be a negative one, as I do love the new explorer.
I purchased an 2011 explorer certified pre owned with 29000 miles december30th 2012, I also purchased extended warranty through ford.
1 month of driving I noticed a knocking sound on the bottom end of the motor, most noticeable when pulling from a dead stop. I found it knocks between 700 and 1100 rpm.
I took it to the dealer where I purchased it from at 31392 miles.
I wanted them to address the low end knock, driver side window chattering , sync upgrade ,wind noise on drivers door at highway speed. and intermittent brake squeal while in reverse.
I got the car back 29 days later, they replaced the short block due to a knocking #5 cyl wrist pin, replaced driver side window motor, upgraded sync, resealed A pillar molding trim, and said they could not replicate brake squeal.
The low end knock was now gone, and now has valve train tic/tapping noise, window still shudders, still has wind noise at highway speeds, and still intermittently squeals while in reverse.
I was told ticking sound is normal, although it didn't do it prior to short block replacement. Nor did this car make any noise before I bought it or I would not have purchased it.
Upon leaving dealer I had to fuel up, I noticed the spoiler on both sides was loose so I clipped them in, I also found the oil filter on loose so I tightened it 3/4 of a turn. I contacted service advisor and he thanked me for letting him know.
My wife was pregnant at this time so the car didn't get to much use, mostly around town. she informed me that while pulling an extended grade the car would lose power A/C would cut out and the check engine light would flash, also the transmission would hang up in gear then shift real hard.
It happened to me while driving and verified the same thing. I scanned for DTC's using my laptop and AE with the ford bundle, I came up with a micro thermal module on the HVAC circuit.
At 34791 miles I took it to the same dealer I informed them of the loss of power, hard shifting, ticking/tapping coming from the valve train, a broken positive battery cover that had been broken on the last visit, and a missing bumper on the rear hatch. They had my car 15 days.
They replace the transmission valve body separator plate, unable to duplicate the tapping/ticking sound from valve train, fixed broken battery cover and replaced the missing bumper on the rear hatch.
The car now shifts better tan any time I've owned it, ticking/tapping still happening, and the car is still intermittently flashing check eng light on grades.
We took the car to San Francisco, and it ran great up there and while we were there, I thought the problem had cured itself. On the way down central valley I look in my side view mirror to see my keyless entey panel flapping in the wind, I pullover and was able to reattach it but it had gotten scraped while flapping in the wind. very disappointed at how a panel on a 50000 car is attached with double sided stickey tape.
while coming up the grape vine which is a very steep and long grade, I lose power, I move over to the slow lane, barely, and the car regains power, the transmission then hangs up in 3rd, after reaching the summit I had to put in neutral, then to manual upshift then the transmission regained it's normal function.
Upon arriving home I hooked up my lap top and pulled code p0300,p0301,p0305, all associated with engine misfire specifically cyl 1,and 5.
Dropped off car at same dealer at 37310 miles I informed them of loss of power and the codes that I had pulled, that the valve train tick/tap was still present, the key less entry panel delamination, that the my temp light on the A/C had burnt out or was no longer illuminating, and that the drivers door seemed misaligned to the front fender.
They had the car 10 days.
Dealer claims that they cannot find the DTC's that I had pulled, they replaced keyless entry panel (it was on a recall) they compared the my temp light to two other like cars in their lot and claimed lack of that light operation normal(I found out later on this forum that the light goes away when the sync is upgraded), found the outer fender skirt warped causing the appearance of a misaligned door(replaced fender skirt and retainers)
Service advisor claims that a tech took my car up the grade 4 times driven quote " like it was stolen" and could not replicate the loss of power that I have complained about
when I picked up my car I brought my lap top and pulled up all the PID'S associated with engine misfire, I showed the service advisor that there were 10 start stop cycles since last misfire event to show him that I was not hallucinating I brought the service advisor out to hear the ticking/tapping that they can never seem to duplicate in the shop. It seems most noticeable when parked next to a wall or large vehicle, it seems to resonate off of other objects. I operate and work on diesels so I guess my hearing is fined tuned to hearing noises on top of other noise.
As I pulled out of the dealership, laptop hooked up I didn't even get to the freeway and had 18 misfire events. I proceeded to the grade, by the bottom of the grade I had 59 misfire events, as I pulled the grade a mile into it the car lost power A/c cuts out, check engine light flashes. I call dealer to tell them that I am bringing it back. As I pulled in I m greeted by the tech, it was too late for him to go on a ride along with me so that I could show him what's happening, butt he actually blames my soft ware for causing these problems, I inform him that these issues arose before this car had even seen my software. His response "oh". I even hooked up a normal $100 scanner from autozone to show him the codes that HIS software could not find.
I then tell him I'm upset that I was lied to. I put on 26 mile going up the grade and back. My vehicle had only 9 miles from when it was dropped off to when I picked It up. I was told it went up the grade 4 times. I was very specific when I told the service advisor that the problem only happens on an extended grade.
So I'm guessing a tech took my car for a joyride on the local farm road flogging it to try to duplicate my issues, the tech even admitted to me that he hadn't taken the car on the grade. Needless to say I was furious.
Rather than cause a scene at the dealership I chose to go home and cool off.
I then decide to contact the service manager via online, no response, I called his direct line, no response.
The service advisor called me within minutes, he told me that now they have retrieved the DTC codes, I inform him that since they are going to have my car for another extended period that I want the ticking/tapping taken care of(I give him 4 TSB's related to the valve train ticking), I also want the window chatter on both drivers and passengers door taken care of.
They have the car another 8 days.
They reflashed the PCM and did a 133 mile road test,runs ok at this time.
They changed both window motors and regulators, but left tape residue on my windows related to the removal and replacement of regulators and motors, and a glue substance and tape on my leather seats and they scratched the drivers window on installing motor and regulator.
They did nothing for the ticking sound coming from valve train.
At this point I'm just happy the car no longer losses power, my wife's now had our child and she's started work at children's hospital L.A, so I haven't pressed the issue of fixing the valve tick I simply don't have time to take it to the dealer for them to not repair the issue.
I would rather have the problem resolved sooner than later, I figure at 60 70000 miles they'll come up with a reason that its somehow my fault for the noise, due to me not pouring in the oil correctly, etc.
Now nov 8th I did change the oil, guess what? my lower end engine knock is back. also found the exhaust hanger behind the catalytic converter completely detached, and the clamp from catalytic converter to exhaust pipe completely loose.
Did they lie to me in saying they replaced the bottom end? It seems suspect after an oil change my problem is back(5-20 ford synthetic blend, ford filter)
Maybe they put in an oil additive, or thicker viscosity oil to tame the noise.
They billed ford for a new short block, and would not let me see my old short block claiming they had shipped it back to ford for inspection, because they hadn't seen this particular problem on the 3.5's
I refuse to go to the same dealer.
dose anyone know if this car would qualify under lemon law?
would ford be willing to help me get this thing fixed once and for all by referring me to a dealer competent to handle the repairs that I am asking for?
Or could ford give me a credit or rebate for the purchase of a new explorer?
I do love the explorer, but this one has been in the shop for 25% of the time I've owned it (61 days)
I know ford has a great customer care presence on this website, please help me. Thank you Bryan
