Just found out I've got a "one wheeled wonder"

[snoranger]

I'll have to see if I can get under the truck with the afore-mentioned vice grips, and engage it that way. Do I need to physically remove the T-case before I try the grips, or can I leave everything where it is and just do it that way?

You have a 4405 T-case... Pulling the shift motor and turning the shaft with vicegrips will NOT put it in 4wd. The shift motor is ONLY used to shift between high and low ranges.

 

[Dono]

check fuse 26 right by the drivers door (By your left leg).

 

[ghost30]

You have a 4405 T-case... Pulling the shift motor and turning the shaft with vicegrips will NOT put it in 4wd. The shift motor is ONLY used to shift between high and low ranges.

Okay I guess I understand that... what purpose then would turning the shaft with vicegrips serve? Am I checking the state of the solenoid, or what? (I ask about the solenoid because I just started randomly wondering if that might be a part of the problem)

Again guys, I'm really sorry if this stuff is painfully obvious to you, but I've only started getting interested in learning about 4x4 in the last year or so, and I've never spent much time in the garage. My time is more spent behind a computer desk so yeah.

 

[snoranger]

Okay I guess I understand that... what purpose then would turning the shaft with vicegrips serve?

None... Unless you want to put the truck in 2low.

 

[ghost30]

Alright, so I don't want to actually turn the shaft with vice grips... good to know.

I did locate a website www.4x4abc.com/4WD101/ that looks like it has some tips I could use; it sounds like the only real option I have at this time is 1 of 2 things. Option number 1 is to keep driving this thing as normal, but to pretend like I don't have true 4x4 since when it was on the lift originally only one or two tires (on the back end of course) were turning, and nothing was happening on the front end. Option 2 is to hope this thing keeps going until tax time rolls around, when I can go buy aftermarket lockers and do an axle swap to either Bronco or F150 models?

I asked a guy at Autozone about this same thing and he mentioned (because I was asking about lockers) that I would end up doing a lot more than just installing lockers.

Pretty much, my whole thing at this point is that where I live we get a lot of snow and ice, and I live on a hill where they don't know what plowing actually means. I can have my fun in this, so I'm not worried there. I'm wondering if my 4x4 even works, and if not, what can I do to fix this situation? Obviously at the current time it isn't working (or if it is, maybe I'm misunderstanding what exactly stock 4x4 can do).

For all I know, I may end up selling this thing at tax time instead of trying to upgrade parts that I can't do (I lack the knowledge to do so, and my landlord is staunchly anti-mechanical work- it supposedly drags down the property value, and I can't afford to move anywhere else). Thoughts are still appreciated, and options will be considered.

Thanks for continuing to help a "rube."

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Putting a locker into the truck only ties the left and right sides of an axle together so both tires have power. It does nothing to engage the front drive shaft (ie turn on the 4x4 function). If you take a little time to read through the first few posts on the brown wire mod (BWM), it shows how the 4wd system works.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=149388

So lets start at the beginning and work through the steps the truck normally takes to engage 4x4 and look for the problem. First and foremost check all your fuses. Since we are dealing with an electronic system, a blown fuse could be stopping the entire process. Once that checks out and still no 4x4, then move on to next step.

The switch itself appeared to work. The mechanic did tell you there was something happening under the truck, but the system did not engage.

To get 4x4 there needs to be 2 things: 1. the center axle disconnect (CAD - the vacuum powered solenoids) has to engage the half-axles with the spider gears in the front differential 2. the electronic clutch has to be powered by the GEM.

Probably the quickest and easiest way to test the 4x4 would be to power the electronic clutch using the brown wire mod instructions. That will force the clutch to engage, which will lock the front and rear drive shafts together. If both shafts do not turn with power applied, then the clutch or the wiring to it is faulty and needs repair. If both shafts turn, then check the front axle.

With the selector switch in either 4x4 mode, the CAD solenoids should be engaged. Since we have power to both drive shafts, the front axles will turn if the CAD is on. If drive shaft turns but the wheels do not, then need to check for power at the plugs, then inspect for vacuum leaks or faulty solenoids. Vacuum line and the solenoids themselves are reasonably priced. Replacement is fairly straight forward.

Once you get the CAD working and the electronic clutch engaged, the truck will be in 4x4. You can add a switch and run as BWM manually controlled 4x4. Problem basically solved.

Or, if you want to continue forward to get back to original operation then it's time to disconnect the secondary power source from the brown wire. We know the electronic clutch and associated wiring are good, as are the CAD components. Let the truck attempt to engage the 4x4 by itself from the switch. If 4x4 does not work at this point, then will have to delve into possible issue with the GEM, torque module, or the speed sensors.

 

[ghost30]

[MENTION=156936]RomeovilleIL[/MENTION] first off, wow. Thank you much; never quite realized all the stuff associated with 4 wheel drive, I guess I just kinda took it for granted when I had a diesel 4x that I threw the lever into position, and away I went. Good to know.

As far as the fuses go, is there only the one fuse to check, or are there fuses in multiple locations? I really have no idea what I'm looking for at this point, since all previous work on this thing has been on the preventive side of things; ya know, new tires, plugs, wires, oil, etc. Nothing that could be considered truly performance-enhancing by any stretch. The only reason I even added my extra lighting was because where I live people often drive with their heads firmly planted in their exhaust pipes, and I want to be able to force people to see me coming around a bend.

You're correct, the switch does appear to work. When I engage the switch properly, I can hear a mechanical sounding click as the light turns on.

To check power to the drive shafts, I need to lift the truck, correct? For a lot of this I do believe I'm going to require a friend's help, since I have 2 1/4 ton jack stands, but only two of them. That, plus since I don't have regular access to a shop, I need to make sure there's someone nearby in case something goes wrong.

The rest seems (at the moment anyway) relatively straightforward. But just to clarify further, when I'm checking for power at the plugs, it sounds like it's a group of two or more wires plugged in somewhere between the T case and the wheels, right? Vacuum lines, I should be able to test that at any parts shop, or so I would think.

If this all boils down to the electronics failing, I may yet end up doing the BWM... just one of those things I'd read about previously but didn't want to mess with due to not having a backup vehicle. But, if that's where it sits, then that's where it sits. I'll try to get at least some of this stuff checked in the next few days. Thank you very much for your help [MENTION=156936]RomeovilleIL[/MENTION].

EDIT: Okay, I had a chance to run out and check the fuses in the cab. Whether good news or not, all the fuses checked out, nothing was burned or anything. So, unless there's more fuses to check somewhere else (I'm assuming there could be something under the hood for fuses as well), it looks like it's time to hit the next part.

One more quick inquiry for now: someone told me that I would have to let the truck roll a few feet one way or the other to get 4x to engage, so a) is that true and b) if it is, how would I be able to check the drive shafts, is it possible to roll the tires back or forward by hand to fool the computer? Otherwise, if the answer to A is no, can I safely just lift the truck, stand it, and do it all that way? Thanks again.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

4 jack stands are going to be required to try this at home, and be very careful not to let the tires get going very fast. Keep in mind there is no resistance with wheels off the ground so acceleration is FAST!!! When you put on the brakes the ABS is likely to trigger and will require some pumping to get the tires to stop <-- this is normal so don't freak out when they act weird. The 4x4 system does require detecting a difference in speeds to lock, but in the air one axle turns + one does not = different speeds and 4x4 lockup. In the real world it is pretty quick and usually not super noticeable most situations.

That clunking you hear is the shift motor turning the transfer case to low gear, so we can be pretty certain that much is working correctly.

Since fuses are good, move on to the next steps listed previously.

 

[Bobmbx]

One more quick inquiry for now: someone told me that I would have to let the truck roll a few feet one way or the other to get 4x to engage, so a) is that true and b) if it is, how would I be able to check the drive shafts, is it possible to roll the tires back or forward by hand to fool the computer? Otherwise, if the answer to A is no, can I safely just lift the truck, stand it, and do it all that way? Thanks again.

With manual hubs, of ancient design, when you unlocked the the hubs and disengaged the front driveshaft, you needed to back up a few feet to get the hubs to unlock.

You only see that sort of thing today on vehicles that have been modded, especially for off-road. I'm not sure there is such a thing as a locking hub anymore except for heavy-duty vehicles.

 

[ghost30]

With manual hubs, of ancient design, when you unlocked the the hubs and disengaged the front driveshaft, you needed to back up a few feet to get the hubs to unlock.

You only see that sort of thing today on vehicles that have been modded, especially for off-road. I'm not sure there is such a thing as a locking hub anymore except for heavy-duty vehicles.

Thank you Bobmbx, I had wondered about that for quite a while; had a teacher years ago who drove an old beater 4x4 when the snow got bad and I watched him get out to lock the axles, but didn't think anything of it until now.

So I'm now narrowing the problem down to probably having a faulty speed sensor, as my speedo doesn't work except for sporadically, and when it does I could be going 30 and it'll bury itself past 120 but the engine never seems to notice. One of the perils of having an older vehicle I guess.

 

[snoranger]

Here's the easiest way to narrow the problem down:

1st...
With the truck on the ground, start the truck (you need engine vacuum for this part).
Flip the 4x4 switch to 4auto.
Reach under and try to spin the front driveshaft.

If the shaft won't turn, everything is good with that part of the system.
If it does spin, you have a no vacuum to the actuator or a bad actuator on the front axle. (Could be caused by a broken vacuum line, bad solenoid, GEM problem, or a wiring issue.)

2nd...
With the truck off, apply power to the brown wire going into the T-case.
Reach under and try to spin the front drive shaft.

If the shaft doesn't turn, the T-case is fine.



Try it out and let us know what you find.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Any update?

 

[ghost30]

Actually yeah, but it's not gonna be what you guys are gonna want to hear.

It is now completely undrivable. Long story short, I blew up the transmission. It didn't even last a year, and I know exactly what killed it. I took it on a trip about an hour away and something (apparently my torque converter) blew up on the way there, but I didn't know that's what it was; not a week later and reverse blew out.

Now, yes, I know that technically a transmission, torque converter, and all that stuff should be easily replaced by someone more skilled than I. However, that requires 3 things that I don't have: money, skills, and a place to work. Where I live, I'm not allowed (like I said before) to do literally any automotive work AT ALL. Can't check my oil, can't change a tire... hell, I'm lucky I'm allowed to jump-start my vehicle!

Anyway, end of rant... but yeah, the truck is going to the wrecking yard tomorrow hopefully, I can't afford to put any more blood, sweat, and money into this piece of ****. Apparently my last oil change was the final straw. The technician saw what I was driving and his exact words were, "Wow, one of the last models of this vehicle on the road." Guess I know where I'm not going next time... avoid Valvoline.

Thanks for trying to help me out guys, I do believe I'll be deactivating my account on the forums since I know practically nothing about automotives and was trying to save some money. So long and thanks for the tips.

 

[morbid81]

if the tech knew anything he would know there are lots of 2nd gens still on the road, and it wasn't a piece crap. it was just 20 years old and needed some love, are you still gonna work like new at 60? 20 years of work takes its toll on our Xplorers. Cars are not built to last forever, they will require work and repair throughout their lives. There are many happy 2nd gens on the road with 300k+ but only because their owners are devoted and put work into them. These are reliable vehicles they are just showing their age is all.