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Bought my 1st Explorer!

If you like the dark grey interior i say find a decent one and go for it. My Mounty came with really worn, nasty tan interior which i had a donor truck so it wasn't too big of deal. Well worth it in my opinion. It was below freezing and dark when I swapped mine, with a single drop light. (My heater core was bad so it was a good excuse to just do it) The only thing original inside my Mounty that it was built with is the wiring, hvac boxes (front and rear), driver air bag, instrument cluster, and ignition Lock. I have a few threads about it including a dash removal how to. The whole process isn't near as hard as it sounds. If you want the auto dimming mirror, find one and the wiring for it. It'll plug right in on the driver a - pillar about half way down the windshield. My donor truck had it, Mounty didnt, powered right up after the swap. No hacking or splicing, and will make a difference unless you get your windows tinted really dark. Adds a nice touch. Wish I would have known you were looking for another set of headlights. I have an excellent set in the shop that I can't use on the Mounty obviously. I got rid of 90% of the tan stuff but I do have a few little odd and end pieces if there's anything else your still lookin for let me know . I do have a couple of boxes of parts here in the shop. I do also have a factory full chrome grille in very good shape if you wanna change that up. As before, cover the shipping and it's yours. I've had all my spare parts up for sale locally (very cheap) and no bites so I'd rather send them to a forum member that can use the stuff than just sit on it collecting dust.
 



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What did you do with the high beam? Turn it into a DRL?
I figured an LED bulb could be put in there and it be used as a drl.

It's pretty common to retain the halogen high beams to be able to flash with the turn signal stalk, something that doesn't work well with the xenon highs. That's how my Focus ST was configured from the factory. That also gives you the option of low-powered halogen highs for DRLs.
 






For the heated seats you also need the Heater control modules. One for each seat. And they plug into the Digital Climate Control.
 






It's pretty common to retain the halogen high beams to be able to flash with the turn signal stalk, something that doesn't work well with the xenon highs. That's how my Focus ST was configured from the factory. That also gives you the option of low-powered halogen highs for DRLs.

Don't think we're on the same page.

The Stock High beam, would be voided. Separate of the new Low/High.
The stock Low beam, would become both the high and low beam with
a Bi-Xenon Projector retrofit. Meaning that inside the projector one Xenon Bulb is used and it creates the low beam, and also the high beam which is a metal shield that once powered moves out of the way creating the high beam.

Pulling the interior cabin High beam flash stalk would activate the new Xenon High beam (Which Has no warm up time because it's not an extra bulb, just a metal shield that is pulled out of the way)

The stock High beam would become separate, on a switch. Basically is becomes an additional high beam, or flood that is on a switch.
Kind of like an off road light...

If the bi xenon doesn't make sense I can link some videos.


But I'm thinking about putting an xenon kit in the stock high beam
and making it basically an off road light that is on a switch, and I don't
turn on unless i'm on a back road. which is often.
 






The stock Low beam, would become both the high and low beam with
a Bi-Xenon Projector retrofit. Meaning that inside the projector one Xenon Bulb is used and it creates the low beam, and also the high beam which is a metal shield that once powered moves out of the way creating the high beam.

Yes, that's how it's usually done.

Pulling the interior cabin High beam flash stalk would activate the new Xenon High beam (Which Has no warm up time because it's not an extra bulb, just a metal shield that is pulled out of the way)

It only has no warm-up time if the bulb is already on. I'm referring to daytime flashing, not nighttime flashing. That's why the halogen high beam is usually in place with a bi-xenon installation. As I mentioned, that's how Ford factory installations work.

But I'm thinking about putting an xenon kit in the stock high beam
and making it basically an off road light that is on a switch, and I don't
turn on unless i'm on a back road. which is often.

The conventional approach is to replace the low beam halogen with the bi-xenon, and leave the high beam halogen intact.
 






I now understand your point, I completely missed the "DayTime"

just power the solnoid for the bi xenon off the high beam and youll get your day time halogen flash. But at night youll get your Xenon high beam and halogen. (not sure if i like that)
 






So what's behind the front grill, underneath the hood release assembly.

There is plastic that goes from top to bottom, I want to cut out the bottom half
and install an led bar, but I haven't looked behind the plastic piece.
 






I would recommend that you get rid of the rims ASAP. Our vehicles require hubcentric wheels and many people have used aftermarket wheels that aren't correct. This puts too much stress on the lug nut studs and eventually causes them to break. Yours may or may not be correct, I wouldn't wait to find out. If you pick up another set of aftermarket rims, make sure that they are hubcentric, or better yet, get some nice factory Explorer rims. There were actually several different styles used in 3rd gen in both 16" and 17" diameter. I am using stock 17" chrome rims for summer and stock 2002 16" aluminum Limited rims with oversize tires for winter. 2002 was the only year for the specific 16" aluminum Limited rims, they were not used ever again. BTW, thank God you switched your sunvisors back to factory style. I don't know what the previous owner was thinking with the DVD screens. LOL
 






Back Up camera is in the mail, Should be here tomorrow for the Double Din screen I already have, it has a rear view camera hook up already.
Plus, for $12 shipped from amazon It can't be beat!

I also received some more parts for the retrofit.
The Square X Projector Shrouds arrived! Sweet.
Only thing left to arrive is the Xenon kit.
 






If you like the dark grey interior i say find a decent one and go for it. My Mounty came with really worn, nasty tan interior which i had a donor truck so it wasn't too big of deal. Well worth it in my opinion. It was below freezing and dark when I swapped mine, with a single drop light. (My heater core was bad so it was a good excuse to just do it) The only thing original inside my Mounty that it was built with is the wiring, hvac boxes (front and rear), driver air bag, instrument cluster, and ignition Lock. I have a few threads about it including a dash removal how to. The whole process isn't near as hard as it sounds. If you want the auto dimming mirror, find one and the wiring for it. It'll plug right in on the driver a - pillar about half way down the windshield. My donor truck had it, Mounty didnt, powered right up after the swap. No hacking or splicing, and will make a difference unless you get your windows tinted really dark. Adds a nice touch. Wish I would have known you were looking for another set of headlights. I have an excellent set in the shop that I can't use on the Mounty obviously. I got rid of 90% of the tan stuff but I do have a few little odd and end pieces if there's anything else your still lookin for let me know . I do have a couple of boxes of parts here in the shop. I do also have a factory full chrome grille in very good shape if you wanna change that up. As before, cover the shipping and it's yours. I've had all my spare parts up for sale locally (very cheap) and no bites so I'd rather send them to a forum member that can use the stuff than just sit on it collecting dust.

Do you have a right side visor in tan? My Explorer I just bought was missing that for some reason. Just let me know how much you want.
 






Found a pair of visors in a JY. Fits perfectly.
 






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