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Help finding a good wire

sobsmb

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March 16, 2007
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City, State
Cincinnati, OH
Year, Model & Trim Level
2013 Explorer XLT
Ok so I'm trying to install some LED DRL's on my '13 XLT. I have them ready to go, but I'm wanting to have them turn on when the key is in the run position. Since I can't find any wiring diagrams for the engine bay, do any of you know where I can find a easily accessible (where I can easily tap into) "hot in run/ignition" wire in the engine bay?

I think I found one on the Mass Air Flow sensor (green wire IIRC) but want to see if there is a better choice.

On a side note while I was installing the lights I saw a unused wire connection behind the lower section of the front bumper on the drivers side. Just curious if anyone knows what this is used for?

Thanks.
 



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What you're looking for is referred to as an "accessory" wire. It comes on with the ignition. My recommendation would be to take the time and wire it properly. You can use a test light or multi-meter and check the fuses in the PDC(fusebox) and see which ones come on with the ignition. Once you've found an appropriate fuse, get a fuse tap, so you have your light on their own fuse, and run the wires to wherever you're mounting your lights. Make sure to run them cleanly and avoid sharp corners and moving parts. I also follow existing wires and zip tie them to it, or I use wire loom, or a combination.

This is the best, and safest, way to wire. You ALWAYS want to fuse any and all things that you install. You can get wire and fuse taps at places like Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, NAPA, Pepboys.....

Hope this helps. Any further questions, don't be shy.
 






Thanks Mark. What you are talking about is almost exactly what I'm trying to do. I plan on using a Relay to be controlled by the Hot on Run/Ignition wire which will switch on the DRL's that will be on their own fuse. The only down side for an ACC wire is the fact that if I put the car in ACC mode (just before Run) they will come on, and thats what I don't want. I've went through multiple ports on the fuse block and found several that would work, but tapping into those wires are a pick tricky without figuring out a way to flip the fuse block to see what wire is leading to the said fuse. I also know that empty fuse #71 is a ACC, however like I mentioned, I don't want them to come on with ACC mode, but rather Hot on Run/Ignition.

Anyway an example of this wire is for the Rear View Mirror and is Gy/Bu wire which is hot in run/ignition.

I used to find all the info I needed in a Haynes manual however I can't seem to find one for the 5th gen Explorers
 






I used #71 and #91 for power to run Led road lights and power a front view camera. Don't run ACC power, engine on = GO, engine off = stop. Soldered wire to an burnt out fuse, plugged it into #71 , or #91 for my on/off power, works like a champ, routed wire out of side of fuse block.
 






please post some pics and some info when you're DRL's are installed,thanks
 






Thanks Guys, I ended up using the green wire off the Mass Air Flow sensor as it is only on when the car is in run (however also on when you initially insert the key) but I may end up changing it soon. That wire is hooked up to a relay which is just the trigger for the lights.

I'll get/post pics later tonight. they are not anything special, and you will probably yell at me for the wiring, but I hate messing the the fuse box, and couldn't find a mini fuse tap at the local stores (they are out of stock)
 






Sorry, pics will be as soon as I can. Life happens.
 






Hooking into the MAF sensor is not a good idea AT ALL. Hope you never have any engine related problems which could lead to Ford denying warranty coverage since an engine related wire has been tampered with.
 






Hooking into the MAF sensor is not a good idea AT ALL. Hope you never have any engine related problems which could lead to Ford denying warranty coverage since an engine related wire has been tampered with.

Agreed and certainly not my first choice, every other car that I've owned I was able to find wiring schematics for without to much trouble, so I could find a good wire off the fuse box or close to it. I've installed remotes starts / alarms in several vehicles which I've had to find a good Hot in Run. However finding this wire in the engine bay seem to be elusive to me. I can easy find a hot on ACC wire #71 in the fuse box and its not even used, and I might just change to that, since I can turn on the radio without the key being in the ignition.

As far as them denying warranty, you are probably right, but they could do the same thing for anything we do to the car. At least I didn't cut the wire, and with the use the relay, the draw on it is very minor.
 






I used [URL=http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=71]#71 [/URL] and #91 for power to run Led road lights and power a front view camera. Don't run ACC power, engine on = GO, engine off = stop. Soldered wire to an burnt out fuse, plugged it into [URL=http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=71]#71 [/URL] , or #91 for my on/off power, works like a champ, routed wire out of side of fuse block.

Explorer Pete, do you have any photos of how you taped into #71 ? Did you some how run the wire through the fuse box down, or have the wire just laying across the top, and close the door on the cable?
 






Ok so I'm trying to install some LED DRL's on my '13 XLT. I have them ready to go, but I'm wanting to have them turn on when the key is in the run position. Since I can't find any wiring diagrams for the engine bay, do any of you know where I can find a easily accessible (where I can easily tap into) "hot in run/ignition" wire in the engine bay?

I think I found one on the Mass Air Flow sensor (green wire IIRC) but want to see if there is a better choice.

On a side note while I was installing the lights I saw a unused wire connection behind the lower section of the front bumper on the drivers side. Just curious if anyone knows what this is used for?

Thanks.

On the Ford Police Interceptor website there is a PDF file called Modifiers Upfit Guide and it might help with wiring.

Not to take away from what you're doing but would it not be easier to simply have the dealer use the IDS tool and turn on the OEM DRL's?
 






On the Ford Police Interceptor website there is a PDF file called Modifiers Upfit Guide and it might help with wiring.

Not to take away from what you're doing but would it not be easier to simply have the dealer use the IDS tool and turn on the OEM DRL's?

Thanks SGT, I think that is exactly what I needed :)

It would be easier to have the dealer enable the OEM's, however for me I was never a fan of the headlights or side markers being used, also I like to make things difficult. i.e. I have my dash cam hooked up with a hidden switch for On in ACC, or on at all times.
 






Thanks SGT, I think that is exactly what I needed :)

It would be easier to have the dealer enable the OEM's, however for me I was never a fan of the headlights or side markers being used, also I like to make things difficult. i.e. I have my dash cam hooked up with a hidden switch for On in ACC, or on at all times.

My dashcam is set up the same....I like having it on in parking lots for Hit & Runs.

Those E-Prance 0803, 0805, 0806 cameras are such cheap insurance.
 






My dashcam is set up the same....I like having it on in parking lots for Hit & Runs.

Those E-Prance 0803, 0805, 0806 cameras are such cheap insurance.

Exactly what I was thinking. :)
 


















Ok, now I feel like a complete moron, I never even thought of checking for something like this. That is the best solution, that way they only light when the car is running. You are a genius. Ordered one from Amazon, so hopefully I'll get it installed this Friday/Saturday. Thank you!

FYI, there are 2 versions of this type of harness. version 1) drl off with headlights on and 2) drl dim with headlights on. I've had both and prefer version 2. you have the drl look at night without blinding other drivers.
 






FYI, there are 2 versions of this type of harness. version 1) drl off with headlights on and 2) drl dim with headlights on. I've had both and prefer version 2. you have the drl look at night without blinding other drivers.

Thanks, the one that I ordered gives me both options including an option to turn off the right side when the right turn signal is on, same for the left. I'll be using none of these. I'd prefer them on at all times
 






BTW here is a photo of my DRL's and the location of the Connection I was trying to find out more information on.

2015-01-14_1432_zps45b01e2c.png
 



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