Some info need???

[Torqueranger]

I have a 98 Explorer 4.0l Sohc

Questions
1-I need balljoints but I wanted to know if it's better to replace the whole lower control arm for $110 or more or just replace the bushing and balljoint for $40 ??

2- How does the poly bushing ride verses the oem rubber ones ???

3-I tried looking but how hard is it replace the rear leaf springs with the leaves out of a gen 1 explorer and how does it effect the ride and would change anything or do it again???

4-Has anyone every tired the cheap slotted and drilled rotors on ebay and how where they and would you buy them again ??

5-Has anyone have experience with TTX Balljoints ??

Thanks

 

[koda2000]

I can't answer all your questions, but I suggest Moog Problem Solver ball joints with the gusher bearing. Also the Moog poly bushing sway bar end-links. As far as replacing you lower control arms, only if the bushings are worn and sloppy. How many miles on your truck? Poly bushings ride harder than the rubber type, but make for better handling because they're stiffer. Check RockAuto for part numbers and prices.

 

[Torqueranger]

I can't answer all your questions, but I suggest Moog Problem Solver ball joints with the gusher bearing. Also the Moog poly bushing sway bar end-links. As far as replacing you lower control arms, only if the bushings are worn and sloppy. How many miles on your truck? Poly bushings ride harder than the rubber type, but make for better handling because they're stiffer. Check RockAuto for part numbers and prices.

The truck has about 153,000 miles.

 

[koda2000]

The truck has about 153,000 miles.

that's not that much, unless it's been used a lot off road. my control arm bushings on my 2wd were still okay at 182k.

 

[Torqueranger]

I was thinking of using Raybestos professional parts and the grease I have not worked out yet cause I was using green grease but it doesn't seem to really work IMO but I am up for sugggestions...My plan was too take the lower control off and press the new Raybestos Pro or TTX balljoint in and replace the bushing with poly bushing since I am turning this 2wd rig into a locked rear mild offroad rig and buying the control is alot of money I think... Can you just purchase just the lower control arm bushing in poly since the uppers will be replaced and already come with new bushing ??
Also is it better to remove the whole passenger side upper control arm and upgrade to wish bone style like on the driverside or just replace the piece ???
I still can't find any info about using gen 1 springs on a gen 2 since the gen1 springs have a higher spring rate with same basic dimension.. I have read Hokie mention something about putting gen 1 spring on his 99 sport .. But I would like to know if is solves the sag problem and what kind of ride height do you get and does level out or give some lift ?? Does the springs ride any different than the factory ones?? The ebay rotors I meet a guy through AAA that had them and loved them cause they where cheap and came with brake pads but will have to check them out some more...

 

[FIND]

I have a 98 Explorer 4.0l Sohc

Questions
1-I need balljoints but I wanted to know if it's better to replace the whole lower control arm for $110 or more or just replace the bushing and balljoint for $40 ??

The control arm kit is mostly a convenience but is also used in the case you damage your control arm. If you can just replace the bushing and balljoint yourself, then you'll notice no difference between using the old control arm and the new. It is quite a bit of work to replace the bushings and balljoints if you don't have the proper tools to do so.

2- How does the poly bushing ride verses the oem rubber ones ???

I find that NVH increases slightly, but for me it doesn't bother me enough to care. The difference is REALLY small, like about as much as you'd see by inflating your tires an extra 5 psi. You have to be going pretty hard on your suspension to notice anything else.

3-I tried looking but how hard is it replace the rear leaf springs with the leaves out of a gen 1 explorer and how does it effect the ride and would change anything or do it again???

I'm not sure I understand why you would want to do this. You can get new springs pretty cheaply. To answer your question though, they are the same springs from 91-2001

http://www.autoandtrucksprings.com/...PING_COST_FOR_LEAF_SPRINGS_ONLY-1803-164.html

4-Has anyone every tired the cheap slotted and drilled rotors on ebay and how where they and would you buy them again ??

5-Has anyone have experience with TTX Balljoints ??

Thanks

I can't help you with the last two questons. I used the AC Delco balljoints when I replaced mine at 208k miles.


You may find this thread to be a good read

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=297369

and this is a write-up for ball joint replacement

www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=188225

 

[Torqueranger]

I'm not sure I understand why you would want to do this. You can get new springs pretty cheaply. To answer your question though, they are the same springs from 91-2001

http://www.autoandtrucksprings.com/...PING_COST_FOR_LEAF_SPRINGS_ONLY-1803-164.html

They are the same when you buy the newer kit cause they changed the spring rate but when they came from the factory the gen 2 springs where thinner and rated at 1100lbs vs gen 1 thicker and rated at 1250lbs..

Here check it out
http://www.generalspringkc.com/Leaf_Springs_Ford_Explorer_Mountaineer_s/1883.htm


1995 - 2001 Explorer, Mountaineer, Navajo rear leaf spring, 4(3/1) leaves, 1100 lbs capacity
Our Price: $99.99


Spring Capacity = 1100 lbs
Width = 2-1/2
# of Leaves = 4(3/1)
Measures (A/B) = 25-11/16 x 30-15/16
Pack Thickness = 1-3/4
Bushings Included
Sold Per Side - Order Quantity 2 for a pair




1991 - 1994 Explorer, Navajo rear leaf spring, 4(3/1) leaves, 1250 lbs capacity
Our Price: $79.99


Spring Capacity = 1250 lbs
Width = 2-1/2
# of Leaves = 4(3/1)
Measures (A/B) = 25-11/16 x 30-15/16
Pack Thickness = 1-7/8
Bushings Included
Sold Per Side - Order Quantity 2 for a pair

 

[Torqueranger]

Update time ..


I looked into some more info..I checked out rockauto and the info giving if I where to buy new from them is the same specs as the stock Gen 1 Explorers springs .. So I have a you pull it yard near me and I am wondering if I can pick up a used set of springs from a gen 1 and make a set of shackles and be done with the lift in the rear??

 

[FIND]

They are the same when you buy the newer kit cause they changed the spring rate but when they came from the factory the gen 2 springs where thinner and rated at 1100lbs vs gen 1 thicker and rated at 1250lbs..

Ah yeah, you're correct. Sorry, I forgot about that, I've been mired in a jeep project for the last year.

 

[Torqueranger]

Ah yeah, you're correct. Sorry, I forgot about that, I've been mired in a jeep project for the last year.

Np and what kind of jeep are you building ??? Are you done with the explorer ??

 

[FIND]

I was restoring an old Wagoneer... but I traded it to a guy for a Goldwing. The Explorer has stayed my DD, but now that my health is improving and I don't have a Jeep distracting me, I might start playing with the sploder again. I cracked the bumper cover a few months back, so I feel kind of bad for neglecting to fix it anyway.

 

[Torqueranger]

Lol I miss building my jeep... Right now I have 2 explorers and 1 is about to go up for sale cause I am looking to buy a newer explorer or escape for my wife ... My explorer I want to keep modding mine but I am about to start a new job hopefully..

 

[nardbuster]

I have a 98 Explorer 4.0l Sohc

Questions
1-I need balljoints but I wanted to know if it's better to replace the whole lower control arm for $110 or more or just replace the bushing and balljoint for $40 ??

2- How does the poly bushing ride verses the oem rubber ones ???

3-I tried looking but how hard is it replace the rear leaf springs with the leaves out of a gen 1 explorer and how does it effect the ride and would change anything or do it again???

4-Has anyone every tired the cheap slotted and drilled rotors on ebay and how where they and would you buy them again ??

5-Has anyone have experience with TTX Balljoints ??

Thanks

My experience was....

When I replaced my upper and lower control arms. I learned. That before you can use the press in ball joints, the factory supports, must have been changed. The after market ball joints will not work on the factory units.

 

[koda2000]

My experience was....

When I replaced my upper and lower control arms. I learned. That before you can use the press in ball joints, the factory supports, must have been changed. The after market ball joints will not work on the factory units.

Correct, the OE upper control arms must be replaced. The OE lowers accept aftermarket ball joints. Many aftermarket uppers (like Moog) will accept replacement press-in ball joints for future replacement.

 

[atxjax]

hey guys. I have a 1997 Mountaineer. Sway bar bushings are bad. Are they 34mm or 36mm?

 

[swshawaii]

Measure-Sway-Bar-How-To
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/learnmore.asp?opt=Measure-Sway-Bar-How-To&optid=17

 

[atxjax]

Measure-Sway-Bar-How-To
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/learnmore.asp?opt=Measure-Sway-Bar-How-To&optid=17

Thanks for the link