Concerning Issues With 2013 Explorer Limited 4WD

[Wildcat_1]

All
Jumped in the EX yesterday and tried to start it, got the click click click click sound (as in like a completely dead battery) then a whole host of warnings and failure lights (hill descent control failure, check system brake etc amongst others).

Thinking this could be battery related I put a trickle charger on it over night. Tried it this morning same thing. Left it about 20 minutes and tried again, then I get the no key detected error followed by the safe mode to save battery power message. I have put the trickle charger back on and have called Ford to have this towed to a dealer (won't start at all) but am concerned by what this could be. I know we all are aware that the battery is a key piece to any vehicle but it just seems strange to me that the EX was running fine the day before (maybe a little rougher start than usual but nothing that was overly concerning) and now completely dead.

Anyone have any ideas or feedback on anything else I can try or what the issue could be ? General consensus that this could still be just the battery or do you think this is something else ?

Thanks as always

 

[Wildcat_1]

All, quick update here. I finally got the Ex to start on a 2nd or 3rd jump and with a little bit of gas peddle. I then drove the vehicle for about 30-35 minutes. Came back, turned the car off, tried to turn it on about 30 seconds later, completely dead. So would appear it gained nothing from being driven after the jump. I then leave it for 10 minutes, jump it again and am then able to start and stop the vehicle on its own about 2-3 times (albeit those starts were weak) until I get a terrain control error (which appears is just thrown due to the low battery). I am placing it back on a trickle charger (CTEK) overnight and am leaving the car pickup and dealership appointment in place to try and get this resolved but any thoughts or feedback here is appreciated.

Thanks

 

[182RG]

Battery. It's not inconceivable that it has failed after 3 years.

 

[JerryC]

Sounds like a bad battery.

Get the battery tested, If you drive on bad battery you risk damaging the alternator.

 

[Wildcat_1]

Thanks all, yep as I mentioned I wanted to be sure so have the tow and appointment set for tomorrow and will report back on what is found. From what I read on other threads, the battery IS covered by warranty ? This vehicle only has about 25k on it and have had it from new. Thanks again

 

[peterk9]

Since I haven't been wrong yet this month, I'm going against the flow and saying it isn't the battery.

Peter

 

[dudefish]

My money is on faulty battery.

 

[Riley]

Make sure to check the battery cables are tight on the terminals. That could explain the random start/no start.

 

[Wildcat_1]

All, so would the battery be covered under warranty as this is the original and never been replaced ?

 

[182RG]

All, so would the battery be covered under warranty as this is the original and never been replaced ?

Maybe, if you are within the 3/36 bumper to bumper. If you live in a extremely hot or cold climate, battery life is severely shortened. It wouldn't hurt to check.

Personally, I'd spend the $150 and replace it with a good aftermarket. I'm not a "run to the dealer" kind of guy for things like tires, wiper blades, oil/filters, and batteries. YMMV.

 

[Halwg]

Go to Walmart and get a battery. They install them for free. Well, so does Advance Auto parts.

 

[Wildcat_1]

Any recommendations for aftermarket batteries if it comes to that ? I saw in another thread someone mention a Costco battery

 

[peterk9]

All, so would the battery be covered under warranty as this is the original and never been replaced ?

The battery is fully covered under the original factory warranty. Have the dealer check it and replace it is necessary. Then you can always buy another should that one fail. Why spend $$ you don't have to especially when actually it hasn't been determined the battery is at fault?

Peter

 

[adamjeeps]

Go get a warrantied battery from the dealer then when that one goes out get a good battery from Optima or Sears Die Hard Gold AGM.

 

[JerryC]

I've had the best luck with Interstate batteries, which is what my local dealer uses.
Other than that I buy from Autozone, because they are everywhere if I need a replacement.

 

[wifes2011xlt]

Before getting the dealer involved and paying any out of pocket, I would take the battery to an auto parts store that can run a conduciveness test. This test measures the cold cranking amps that the battery plates are conducting during start up. If it checks out ok, then start checking connections to the battery. If it checks out bad, take the battery to the dealer with the conduciveness test results and ask for a new battery under warranty. Then when that one dies, buy a new battery same size but with higher cranking amps.

EDIT: Actually, might be easier to just take the battery to the dealer and have them run the conduciveness test.

 

[Wildcat_1]

Thanks all. I have another question, if the dealer does state its battery and will swap out under warranty 1) do we know what they are putting in the unit as standard (something like the cheapest BXL-59 on fordparts) or better and 2) is it worth getting them to upgrade over the standard to something like the BXT-65-850 (largest battery I could find on foreparts.com) and just paying the difference if that is even an option ?

Thanks

 

[JerryC]

You need to ask your dealer, I wouldn't get my hopes up that they will do anything except a direct replacement.

 

[joecrna]

Sounds like the battery is toast. Once its checked and replaced as needed make sure they check the alternater. Its not unheard of to have a battery fail after 3 years but that is pretty quick. Most likely either an inherent defect in that particular battery or something else killed it such as a malfunctioning alternater. Since it started and continued to run after the jumpers were disconnected, the alternater is most likely fine.

By the way, batteries seldom give any hint that they are about to fail in modern vehicles. They function fine until the voltage drops to some threshhold and then just won't start the car. Often the starter selonoid doesn't even "click" when trying to start. Just nothing happens. All of those lights are a sign of the individual systems getting less voltage then they are designed to accept.

I doubt Ford puts in more battery then required. I did however replace a factory battery recently with a highend after market unit only to discover that while the cold cranking amps were the same, it had substantially less reserve capacity then the factory battery. This on a vehicle that typically drains the battery if left unused for more than 2 or 3 days. $300 completely wasted. If you decide to use an aftermarket battery (I've never bought a battery at the dealership) look at all of the parameters not just one or two.

 

[peterk9]

There are posts of many batteries being replaced on the 5th gen Ex within the year or even sooner. Mine was replaced in the second year.

Peter