[Q] Brake Fluid Flush? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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[Q] Brake Fluid Flush?

grimloktt

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MT
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2011 Explorer Limited
Hello. I took my Explorer in for an alignment and Firestone said I needed a brake fluid flush.

I looked in the manual and did some google searches but was unable to turn anything up. Does anyone have any references which says how often we should be flushing the brake fluid?

2011 Explorer
 



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Normally time based, not mileage. Germans usually specify 3 years. You're due, as am I.
 






And they said you needed the air in your tires changed, and your fan belt adjusted, too, didn't they?

Not that brake fluid doesn't need a change at some point, but please - this is just another high profit item for a retailer.
 






Brake fluid is hydroscopic, which simply means it absorbs water from the atmosphere. As it absorbs more moisture it's boiling point reduces effectively reducing its ability to compress and apply the brakes. For those that don't understand how the hydraulic brake system works, if you apply 10 pounds of pressure to the brake pedal, the system multiplies that by at least 10, so your 10 lbs. of foot pressure applies 100 lbs. to the brake caliper/pads. Oversimplified, but you get it, I assume.

While it is a recommended procedure, there really is no firm maintenance interval for most manufacturers. For the record, most of the German makes use a different base oil and therefore recommend different intervals. As a general rule, the brake fluid gets darker (looks dirty) as it absorbs moisture as it is getting the moisture from the dirty air it absorbs. If your fluid looks to be a clear, light amber (Think Ginger ale) color, it has not absorbed much water. As it gets more caramel in color it is more saturated. Today's modern brake hydraulic systems are very well sealed from the atmosphere and therefore do not absorb a lot of moisture. The biggest source of moisture in today's systems is that which is created by hard, heavy braking that heats the fluid. It naturally creates condensation as it cools back down. Of course most of that condensation is what's already in the fluid, not something it creates.

With all that said, the procedure is something the average mechanically inclined person can perform on their own. I will provide a basic procedure here and can answer specific questions as they arise.

1. Buy 2 quarts of DOT approved brake fluid.
2. If you have access to a Mighty-Vac or similar hand vacuum pump, you can make a power bleeder by converting a large plastic container with a good sealing lid into a recovery tank. Using the vacuum pump hose as a guide, make 2 holes at least 1" apart in the lid that will fit the tubing tightly. Place a piece of tubing long enough to reach the container from the master cylinder with the container sitting level in the under hood area.
3. Put the tubing down into the fluid in the master and then put the tube/fitting from the vacuum pump into the other hole in the container lid. As you operate the vacuum pump, it creates a vacuum in the container which draws the brake fluid out of the master.
4. Once you've drawn as much fluid out of the master as you can, remove the tubing and fill the master to the top with new fluid. (Keep the fluid container closed tight when not pouring to minimize the amount of moisture it absorbs during this process.) (Also AVOID DRIPPING BRAKE FLUID ON PAINT!!! IT WILL EAT IT AND IT MAKES IT HARD TO REPAINT!!!)
5. Using the same tool as steps 2 & 3, you can go to each wheel and draw the fluid out of the bleeder screw. Starting at the right rear wheel (Working from the farthest point from the master makes it go faster so Rt rr; lt rr; rt ft; lt ft.) loosen the bleeder and attach the tubing to it.
6. Operate the vacuum pump to draw the fluid out of the system. If the fluid is noticeably darker than the new fluid, operate the pump until you see the new, lighter fluid coming into the container. (Clear tubing works best for this!) REMEMBER to keep the master full or you'll make more work for yourself!! Re-tighten the bleeder at each wheel BEFORE moving onto the next wheel.
7. Repeat step 6 at each wheel in the sequence in step 5, again, remember to keep the master full.
8. Adjust the fluid level in the master to the marked range on the master and close it up. You just flushed your brake system. Most auto parts stores will take/recycle the used fluid for you.

If this is too much, you can use an old turkey/kitchen baster with tubing attached to draw the master fluid out. Then following the steps above, get a helper to bleed the brakes using the brake pedal. One thing to remember when using the brake pedal method is DO NOT PUSH THE PEDAL ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR!!!! Use a light foot pressure to SLOWLY depress the pedal and stop before hitting the floor so the bleeder person can close the bleeder BEFORE the pedal is released.

If ANY of this seems too daunting or is not fully understood, I highly recommend you find someone who does understand or hire a professional!!

If you are local I have the equipment and knowledge to help you do this if you feel it's needed.
 






Spend the hundred bucks and have them hook the octopus up to your ride. I have this done every two years to all my rides. That machine does a great job of having zero air in your lines, let alone new fluid. Feels like a new ride every time I have this performed. My .02

Buzz
 






Thank you, guys for responding! For some reason, I'm not receiving notifications for new posts...

Question: I purchased 1L of brake fluid before reading this post. So, that won't be enough...I need 2?
 






In 50 years of driving I have NEVER had brake fluid changed.
 






As other people have said it wouldn't be a bad idea to do. I tend to do it every 3-4 years. With our temp fluctuations I figure water is getting in there so I might as well.
 






I've never really heard of anyone flushing the fluid unless there was a problem or the calipers leaked. It is pretty forgiving like flushing coolant and usually gets done, well more than half gets replaced when my calipers or wheel cylinders go anyways. My 2 cents, save your money.
 






Every 3 to 4 years is a good rule of thumb. It is inevitable that over time, condensation/moisture will find it's way in. Flushing the lines and replacing the fluid periodically helps to avoid any major issues/failures down the road (or worse yet while you're on it!).
 






I have never flushed my brake fluid, but everytime I change my pads, I always bleed the brakes a bit from the calipers and flush out some fluid and replace, but its not an entire flush.
 






I had the brake fluid absorb enough water to boil and cause the brakes to almost totally fail. This was about 20 years ago.

It would feel fine at first and once the fluid boiled it went from OK brakes to almost nothing. If not for the emergency brake, I'd have been in big trouble. I think it was the third panic stop on the test drive that they failed. The wife had been daily driving that truck and simply said that there was something wrong with the brakes.

Since then everything gets brake fluid changes every few years.
 






In cold climates the fluid can actually take on enough water that it will freeze! You'll end up having no brakes and pressing really hard may or may not brake it loose.

I have gone longer at times, but try to keep up with a change every 4 years. I bought a power brake bleeder for about $70 on Amazon so I can do it myself. You put fluid in a pump sprayer kinda thing that then hooks up to your brake reservoir cap. It applies pressure so you don't have to have someone pump the brakes and also keeps the reservoir topped off. Pretty slick!
 






For the record, they sell a sensor that measures moisture content in your brake fluid. Brake fluid flushing should be based on moisture level, not simply time. If you really wanted to, you could also check copper levels too.

That said, in all my years of owning vehicles, I have never once flushed a brake fluid system and never once had a problem. I have also never known anyone personally that had a problem. That's not to say that there is no risk from brake fluid condition, but that the risk is low. Or maybe if I had done routine flushes, I wouldn't have had brake calipers need replacement.
 






Wow, never knew there was a meter! Looks like there are litmus style strips or electronic testers. Will have to get one in a few years! I'm a big fan of replacing things when they are needed, not just on a calendar.

I don't think flushes would have saved you a caliper, but I have read about the flexible rubber line getting weak and not allowing the caliper to release completely. That might make a difference, but mostly on older vehicles.
 






My BMW reminds me to change the fluid every two years. So, I thought I'd also change the explorer's.

Can I flush explorer with 1 or do I need 2 litres ?
 






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