Completed Project Turboexplorer's Full Width SAS Build Thread

Hello everybody! It's time to start the SAS on my Explorer. It will be an awesome project and the first project of this type and size that I have ever undertaken. Up to this point the sliders where the hardest thing that I have made myself. I am open to any suggestions and or insights from anyone as the project gets underway. I have bought every last part for the build minus the hard brake lines (axles, and from master to the frame) and the flexible lines that go down to the axles. Those are all easy to make so I am not worried about it for now until I get the axles put together and can see what i want to do with those.

Now for a list of things I will be doing with the project:
1995 F-150 8.8 - I bought this used rear axle that I will strip, lock with a Detroit, convert to Explorer Disc brakes, and mount to the truck. Factory rear sway bar will be used. I will be doing a spring over conversion and will also be remaking the rear V8 anti axle wrap bars to help the leaf springs out with the leverage and TQ the V8 37's and 5.13's will put on them.
1976 F-150 HP Dana 44 - I bought this used axle and will be stripping it of the Ford factory wedges, trussing, and building custom glorified radius arms. Like DB_1 runs and like Rubicon Expresses makes. Front will also have a Detroit Truetrac LSD in it as well. This Dana 44 has 1/2" thick axle tubes.
Fox 14" Remote reservoir coil-overs - I will be building shock hoops for these coil-overs, bracing them, and tying them together across the top of the engine with removable double lock tube clamps.
1995 F-150 Steering box - This will be mounted inside the frame rail and used with the factory PS pump and will build a custom steering link from the box to the column. I picked this 1 to keep it ALL Ford and 2 because they are fairly cheap and easy and can be tapped for hydro assist at some point if I want or need it. In order to fit this steering gear I also have to remote mount my oil filter so that it has room. I will be getting rid of the factory oil cooler and have a Trans Dapt remote filter relocation kit.

Project Parts Section:
-37X13.50 R17 Interco M-16's
-Fox 14" Remote reservoir coil-overs with Eibach Springs.
-Detroit Locker for the 8.8
-Detroit Truetrac for the Dana 44
-Yukon 5.13 gears for both front and rear.
-Both axles will receive ALL new bearings races and seals u-joints etc.
-All wheel studs front and rear and spindle studs have been replaced for safety reasons. To cheap not to.
-Already had EBC brakes on it so those pads on rear will be reused and new EBC 7000 series pads for the front have been purchased.
-New front rotors wheel bearings and new Spicer ball joints, going to reuse the warn locking hubs as they work great and are in good order and easily changed later if i wanted.
-1978 Ford T-Bird calipers have been bought in place of the factory F-150 ones. They are 17% bigger in piston size so will give me a little more brake up front to help stop those 37's.
-Trans Dapt Oil filter relocation Kit and addition mount to hook to the block at a 90*.
-Currie Johnny Joints and Rubicon Express Clevite bushings for the all the link ends.
-GM 1 ton tre's for the steering with a high angle tre at the pitman arm.
-Front axle truss. (wasn't impressed with it at all so will be making some changes)
-Extending current Expedition rear drive shaft and will have a custom double cardon one made for the front.
-Metal used: 2"X.250 wall DOM for lower links, 1 1/2"X.250 wall DOM used for upper links, 1 1/2"X.375 wall DOM used for trac bar, and ALL tabs and brackets will be made out of 1/4" Flat plate by me.
-Double lock tube clamps for the shock hoop cross brace that uses 2 3/8" bolts on each. These are so It can be removed.
-All Grade 8 hardware will be used.
-All flexible brake lines will be braided stainless steel Teflon lined hoses.

I like to follow others projects and often find myself wanting more pictures so bare with me there will be A LOT of pictures of the build. I hope you enjoy lots of pictures as much as I do.


First some pictures of what the truck was! Then onto some parts pictures. Build will start shortly.
1998 XLT Explorer. 5.0L with the 4R70W trans. I have the 4406 T-Case. 3.73 gears with rear LSD. Goodyear 31's. Rock sliders and front skid plate. Links to those builds are in my signature.

And here is some video links! There are a few videos of me wheeling in CO with nssj2!

 

[turboexplorer]

Don't make the super 88 for the full width 8.8. And I did look into chromo shafts buy couldn't find a single company that makes them for the full width 8.8. There is a lot more options on the Explorer width just none of the full width that I found.

 

[gmanpaint]

Have you thought about going to fabbed 9" ?

If I decide to spend good $$ on a HD front or rear axle set up, this is what I would go with.

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/FORD9.html

They will make it to your specs from the start. No need for truss work, and can use ready available stock Ford internals, or upgrade as you want, as you go.

 

[turboexplorer]

Don't see many guys running the fab 9's in rock crawling applications and either way they are very expensive once either style is loaded with gears lockers brakes etc.

 

[turboexplorer]

So yesterday i got the cover pulled, found nothing. So pulled tires brakes and axles nothing. Pulled diff out nothing. Nothing obvious on ring gear, pinion gear, bearings, axles, etc. :thumbdwn:

So in a last try to find something I ran the truck up to speed with just the drive shaft and pinion in, so the tires, brakes, axles, ring gear and locker are all removed. And it has the same vibration that is felt while driving on the road. Still feels like a drive line vibration, its very fast and kinda booms through the truck (audible). So tires, brakes, axles, diff, ring gear etc are all eliminated. So with just the pinion and drive shaft there is Zero load on the drivetrain. I then removed the drive shaft and ran it with just the trans and T-Case and there is ZERO vibrations, dead smooth. There is no load difference between drive shaft and pinion in or not so trans and T-Case are fully eliminated. Only thing that is left is the drive shaft, pinion shaft, pinion flange. I would really hope with all the drive shaft stuff I have done with no real change in the vibration including the 100% new shaft just installed that that would eliminate the rear drive shaft. So all that's left is the pinion shaft and the pinion flange. Not sure how either could really be bent as I hardly hurt the drive shaft and it is way weaker that either of those components but hey its all that is left.

Long story short I ordered a new ring and pinion gear set, install kit and pinion flange. So Will replace all those items now lol, someone mentioned something about always being the last place you look? Hope this is the last place. So a new gear set and things will be installed this coming week and we will go from there. This is a much cheaper check than a 4K axle so if its still there well than I am fully lost again, if gone I still have a working axle for just another $350 rather than 4K and I can then save up for that as a fun upgrade not a fix. 8.8 does fine for mild wheeling so can run on it for a few more years.

P.S. The chatter/clatter on hard turns I am pretty sure is from the new drive shaft bumping the tank. It has a balancing weight on the side of the CV itself, I thought I had the tank clearanced enough but I guess not. So will bump the tank over a hair more to correct that. Also with disassemble the locker and go through it to make sure everything is okay before it all goes back together. That also makes sense since I could spin the rears in forward and revers etc etc and never get a pop at all or anything out of it and would only do it on very hard right hand turns not soft ones. Trans and T-Case must shift over a hair on the rubber mount and it bump the tank.

 

[4wheeltom]

If you haven't already checked make sure the pinion nut is still tight. Mine has loosened up before and gave me a really bad vibration.

 

[turboexplorer]

Yes it was tight, no in and out play at all or even any run out on the flange but its all that is left so replacing it all. Fun Fun, this issue has been terrible to track down. (Crossed fingers) Last place to look.

 

[turboexplorer]

Got all my new parts today! Nice new gears, shiny Ford racing pinion flange, install kit. I'm set to set this thing up again this weekend. I also took apart the locker and inspected, its perfect not a single issue not even a scratch. Can't believe there isn't even a single sign of it wearing at all with it having to turn 37's through 5.13's.

Anyways I am both really excited to get this all done and fix the issue and nervous at the same time if it doesn't. Positive thinking, can't wait to have the truck back!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[turboexplorer]

Well quick update, got the gears installed on Thursday. Was excited and then went to drive it and any guesses?

 

[gmanpaint]

Well quick update, got the gears installed on Thursday. Was excited and then went to drive it and any guesses?

I want to say the best thing possible, and say the vibration/clunk is gone.

But with all you have been thru with that drive shaft, and everything else, I'm afraid to !!

 

[turboexplorer]

Yeah I hoped for the best as well. Sadly no luck

Still the exact same no change. I am so frustrated and bummed by this issue. I have now spent a $ grand chasing this issue. And am no closer, sad part is that is just parts. That doesn't count the time and labor involved in drive shafts, transfer case, rear diff, no use of the truck. I'm past being upset by it and am just wanting my truck back. I'm also bummed because the money spent on fixing it isn't an issue if it fixed it. But since it hasn't I'm upset because my wife has been wanting a new bed or dining room table that I could have bought with it.

I am all out of ideas. I don't now what else to do for now. So since the truck is being naughty I stuck it outside for 2 days and nights in the rain. (Did my brothers big turbo swap on his 2014 Focus ST this weekend, that's why I had to set gears on Thursday) Truck is now tucked back inside in the garage tightly off to the side. Will leave it for now I think as to get other projects done around the house so I can feel productive about something for a bit.

Wish I had a lift so I could safely run it at speed and check things or on a dyno and check things. Still feels like a drive shaft vibration so I'm lost.

Guess I could just drive it until whatever has the issue just let's go lol. I'll try and think of a few other possibilities and guess keep looking.

 

[gmanpaint]

All I can guess would be the drive shaft is still messed up causing the vibrations.

As far as the clunk, have you re-torqued the U-bolts since you installed the new leaf packs? I mark mine against the axle tube and check for movement every now & then. Just a thought.

 

[Kirby N.]

Guess I could just drive it until whatever has the issue just let's go lol. I'll try and think of a few other possibilities and guess keep looking.

This! Drive it man. If it's something important it will get worse or break.

 

[sirhk100]

Wish I had a lift so I could safely run it at speed and check things or on a dyno and check things. Still feels like a drive shaft vibration so I'm lost.

I run our race truck up to pretty crazy speeds in overdrive parked on jackstands in my garage on occasion. Just make sure it's sitting very secure on LARGE stands and go for it. I haven't made the blooper reals yet...

 

[j_mazala]

Haven't read through the whole thread but are your drive shaft angles still in check? Pinion/tcase in relation to each other and max operating angle?

Try removing front drive shaft and putting tcase in 4hi to see if it may be a shift fork related issue

Also try removing rear drive shaft and putting tcase in 4hi to see if noise changes

 

[turboexplorer]

All I can guess would be the drive shaft is still messed up causing the vibrations.

As far as the clunk, have you re-torqued the U-bolts since you installed the new leaf packs? I mark mine against the axle tube and check for movement every now & then. Just a thought.

I really hope the drive shaft is out as being a possibility since It has been redone 4 times now. Not even a change with any of them so with 2 shafts 1 being redone 3 times and 1 100% new one I don't think that is the issue.

Clunk while turning hard was the drive shaft bumping the tank. The trans mount has enough play for it to shift over to the side and bump the tank. Takes a fair bit to get it over there but again was cornering very hard. I have since clearanced the tank but haven't driven it hard enough to check it. But when pryed off to the side the case hits the tank support bracket before shaft can bump the tank so should be impossible for it to hit now.

This! Drive it man. If it's something important it will get worse or break.

I am about to that point! It is terrible and something will let go for sure, it really wouldn't take long for it to show itself but dont want it to damage anything else in the process.

I run our race truck up to pretty crazy speeds in overdrive parked on jackstands in my garage on occasion. Just make sure it's sitting very secure on LARGE stands and go for it. I haven't made the blooper reals yet...

I only have lame small ones that aren't even high enough to leave the tires on the truck. Then I have those really big ones that even at the lowest setting are way higher than I can get the axle and would be 3 feet off the ground even if I could.

Haven't read through the whole thread but are your drive shaft angles still in check? Pinion/tcase in relation to each other and max operating angle?

Try removing front drive shaft and putting tcase in 4hi to see if it may be a shift fork related issue

Also try removing rear drive shaft and putting tcase in 4hi to see if noise changes

Yes all the angles are perfect and don't have an issue. They have been gone over thoroughly and even changed several times and still not a single change in the vibration.

I have ran it in the 4 hi without front shaft and vibration is the same. Run it in full 4WD with hubs locked and with them unlocked and vibration is still the same.

Vibration is not in there when the rear drive shaft is removed but is there when either drive shaft is there. With load with/o load doesn't matter. Just redid the rear gears 100% new bearings and races and a full new gear set and new rear pinion flange. No change in vibration at all.


So its not in the rear diff, rear shaft has been done enough times to eliminate that, ran it without a ring gear locker axles brakes tires etc, I have been through the transfer case and it looked great.

I'm lost.
Only thought I've had the last few days that would be consistent is what if the rear output shaft of the transfer case is bent? It would explain why no matter what I have done it has stayed the same. Would also explain why it doesn't vibrate with/o the rear drive shaft as it would just be wobbling without anything so it just spins there free. But when the drive shaft it on it it forces the shaft to wobble slightly and the yoke then rubs on the tail housing bushing causing the issue. I looked online and found a few on F-150 forums that have had similar issues. vibration at 50-60 the no matter what they redid was still there. Ended up being the output shaft, also a few similar scenarios with the jeep guys before they do the slip yoke eliminator kits.

It's my only thought. Also couldn't tell when the case was apart since there is so many different heights of machined surfaces its impossible to really tell.

Any thoughts? Think this week I'll pull the rear drive shaft again and watch the rear output shaft spin, as I haven't personally watched it yet.

 

[BKennedy]

All I can say is I'm sorry, and I wish I could think of the solution. I'm stumped. If it is the output shaft, is it cheaper to get a whole new case? If so, would be a good time to change to a NP231 or 241. I have the 231 and really like the gearing and the Teraflex 2 low conversion. I got mine with a AA slip yoke eliminator already installed for $300. The NP 241 has a 4:1 low range. The junk yards are full of them, and there is a lot of aftermarket stuff.

 

[4wheeltom]

might be a long shot, but if your tranny mount has that much play in it maybe it has something to do with it. Might be exaggerating the normal function of the u-joint

 

[Maginley]

wow just killed some time this evening reading through this thread. what a great write up and documentation of this build!! seriously dude you really own the phrase built not bought. probably one of the nicest EXs ive seen on here. inspired me to start working on building up my ex again. keep on building and wheelin man!!!

 

[boominXplorer]

Is your new shaft a double cardon also? I swear my old vibration was just the fact of a double cardon joint on the 4406 slip yoke. A D/C joint has a much greater rotating mass and any play in the slip could cause a vibration. All slip yokes have some play, its the nature of the beast.

 

[Accarguy]

So based on how much I have liked the white grill so far I think I am going to buy a none chrome grill and have it professionally paint matched white. This way it will be clear coated and all that good stuff. Another question to you guys, should I have the center grill section painted black like it currently is? Also should it be a semigloss or full gloss black if you think it should stay black?
View attachment 82266

Also while updating the look of the front of the truck i am going to snag a new set of these lights as well. The crystal lenses will look SO much better than the fluted factory lenses. You really see how outdated the fluted lenses are with the grill painted white. Also there is the option of the chrome reflector lights with the crystal lenses or these black chrome reflector lights. I think the black chrome ones will look better against the white and will fit more of the updated look I am after.
View attachment 82267

Will also pick up a set of these 55W HID's to throw in there as well. My brother [MENTION=137709]sector9[/MENTION] did the crystal lens lights and these HID's and they look great and are wicked bright. He has had both for over a year and hasn't had any problems at all. Also some co workers run these HID's in their stuff and no one has ever seamed to have an issue.
View attachment 82268

Also while having things painted I think I may have the B pillar sections of the doors painted a gloss black so it matches the shine of the glass when the glass is clean. The section is the black parts of the front and rear door on the B pillar between the front and rear door windows. Can see how it is flat black now. I painted them myself years and years ago but have kinda faded out again.
View attachment 82269

Can you tell me where you got these headlights and the HIDs from?