lifts | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

lifts

moonman85

Member
Joined
August 6, 2014
Messages
41
Reaction score
0
City, State
northern mn
Year, Model & Trim Level
1993 xlt
Callsign
N0SKS
Hello, ive been lookimg at lifts and read many of the posts on here about them. Im lookimg to put alot of miles on my 93 xlt since im making it as an overland rig. Lookimg at a 4 inch or a 5.5. My question is how dothe two hights handle on the road. Seems i hear the soa isnt that great and you get alot of axle wrap. Can someone shed light on what the best option would be ride wise. Im just looking for both good onroad and off road performance. I will most likely run 33s for tires, thanks
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I had the 5.5 superlift on one of mine, and it did just fine on the road. Drove it from Kansas city to Florida a couple of times, and had no issues.
 






Did you have the long arm kit also or just on the stock radius arms??
 






I have a superlift 5.5 on 33s, 5 speed with ****ty 3.27 gears and it drives and handles great. It has a rear SOA without the rear sway bar and I love the way it drives.
 






I have a superlift 5.5 on 33s, 5 speed with ****ty 3.27 gears and it drives and handles great. It has a rear SOA without the rear sway bar and I love the way it drives.

Do you get any bump steer at all. i keep reading that you need to keep the steering flat and seems all the pics i see the the steering is not flat on the 5.5 superlift.
 






Do you get any bump steer at all. i keep reading that you need to keep the steering flat and seems all the pics i see the the steering is not flat on the 5.5 superlift.

I have a drop pitman arm on mine and my steering is great, I do get bump steer though off road in ruts and uneven terrain over a certain speed.
 






Don't touch rough country 1.5-2 inch coil springs.
 






I have a skyjacker 2" lift with 31s. Perfect for me... I overland quite a bit. I could fit 32s on it but i have my fenders cut on the front. I could put a 2" body lift on and easily run 33s then.

11150372_10204010325649538_1459800299889619763_n.jpg
 






Do you get any bump steer at all. i keep reading that you need to keep the steering flat and seems all the pics i see the the steering is not flat on the 5.5 superlift.

I got alot of bump steer with my 5.5" superlift (with longer pitman arm)
So i will need to order the Skyjacker FA600 pitman arm
 






I have a custom 5" kit, consisting of 4" Superlift Coils,2 1/2" drop brackets, narrowed, cut and turned D44 TTB, skyjacker FA400 Pitman arm, Long 39" radius arms.(best thing I've done). SOA in rear. I would recommend getting the long arm kits. ride quality is much better with long radius arms. I run 35s.
 

Attachments

  • CAM00090a.jpg
    CAM00090a.jpg
    137.3 KB · Views: 217






I have a custom 5" kit, consisting of 4" Superlift Coils,2 1/2" drop brackets, narrowed, cut and turned D44 TTB, skyjacker FA400 Pitman arm, Long 39" radius arms.(best thing I've done). SOA in rear. I would recommend getting the long arm kits. ride quality is much better with long radius arms. I run 35s.

Do you have a shot of the radius arms and bracket?
 






I have a custom 5" kit, consisting of 4" Superlift Coils,2 1/2" drop brackets, narrowed, cut and turned D44 TTB, skyjacker FA400 Pitman arm, Long 39" radius arms.(best thing I've done). SOA in rear. I would recommend getting the long arm kits. ride quality is much better with long radius arms. I run 35s.

Looks like a good setup. I am going to get a long arms with ether kit I go with. I think it's silly to go threw the work and not put on long arms.
 






Arms are 1.25" 3/8" wall. Mounts incorporate the trans crossmember.
 

Attachments

  • CAM00131a.jpg
    CAM00131a.jpg
    186.2 KB · Views: 229






Is it better to have the beams cut and turned?? I've been looking into it. Or just do the drop brackets??
 






There is less leverage on cut beam brackets. Ground clearance is better, but i'm not sure it outways cost for the average truck. Steering is more manageable also. I haven't had a truck with full drop brackets yet. So....
 






Is it better to have the beams cut and turned?? I've been looking into it. Or just do the drop brackets??

I'm running cut/turned beams and I went with it to cut down on the leverage and increase ground clearance...

As a side effect, there is more "push" to the side when I'm running fast through the rough stuff and the front tires hit a rut at different times. I'm not sure how to describe it, but it's more of a feel than the direction of the truck.

As for the cost, well, it was actually pretty cheap.. Shipping was the worst.. I got mine cut/turned by BTF-fab (Brandon and Travis).. It's about $250 for cut/turned beams, assuming you send them beams to cut/turn and then there is shipping..

I also strengthened the stock pivot bracket on the passenger side just in case.. I just added a plate to it so it could grab the frame like my old James Duff brackets used to.

in addition to the cut & turned beams, I'm running extended radius arms and f-250 shock mounts so I can fit 32" shocks up front.

~Mark
 






I'm running cut/turned beams and I went with it to cut down on the leverage and increase ground clearance...

As a side effect, there is more "push" to the side when I'm running fast through the rough stuff and the front tires hit a rut at different times. I'm not sure how to describe it, but it's more of a feel than the direction of the truck.

As for the cost, well, it was actually pretty cheap.. Shipping was the worst.. I got mine cut/turned by BTF-fab (Brandon and Travis).. It's about $250 for cut/turned beams, assuming you send them beams to cut/turn and then there is shipping..

I also strengthened the stock pivot bracket on the passenger side just in case.. I just added a plate to it so it could grab the frame like my old James Duff brackets used to.

in addition to the cut & turned beams, I'm running extended radius arms and f-250 shock mounts so I can fit 32" shocks up front.

~Mark

Thanks for the reply! I was reading about the btf fab beams. I believe it was a post form you that I read about it. Are you running the 4 inch ones or the 6 inch??
 






Thanks for the reply! I was reading about the btf fab beams. I believe it was a post form you that I read about it. Are you running the 4 inch ones or the 6 inch??

Well, I got one of the earlier sets and IIRC they told me to get around 5.5" of lift to make it use a 0 degree cam, so I'd assume that would now be called 6".

I'm currently using 5.5" TTB lift spring (skyjacker I think) and I can actually go higher and stay aligned (at least 1/2" but it appears more).

I've already hurt my new to me stock rear springs by inverting them when wheeling. They are already showing signs of turning into a W instead of an arc. If the rear end ends up higher with the new springs I'll add a spacer under the front springs to get a little more height as I have spacers from 1/2" up to 1 5/8" that I can use. Of course, I may get adventurous and switch to a different style front spring and make new mounts... who know...

~Mark
 






Back
Top