Anti Theft Light Flashing On Dash , Car wont start.

[dsullivan]

anti-theft light flashes rapidly.

truck wont start anti-theft light flashes rapidly. owner manual states to call dealer. does vehicle have go to dealer or is there reset that can be done at home

 

[Rjsmama]

Flashing theft light

Hi all, please take this for whatever it is worth. I'm not a mechanic, just a busy mom. My 1997 Expedition will sometimes flash its theft light, the engine will start, but immediately shuts off. In the past, I had resolved it with a spare key. After it re-sets and starts, the other key that wouldn't start it mysteriously works again too. However, I had a different situation this time. It pulled this little stunt on me again and the spare key trick did not work. I unhooked the battery - no go. Finally, out of pure frustration, I remembered that when I programmed my keys myself (do NOT pay a dealer for this because it is ridiculously easy), it involved using the lock/unlock switch on the door. I had my child waiting impatiently for me to drive her to school and on a whim - I pressed/toggled the lock/unlock switch on the door handle multiple times. How many? Couldn't tell you for sure, but I would guess it was around 20 or so - very rapidly. My daughter looked at me like I had lost my mind and before she could even ask what the heck I was doing, I tried the key again, turned it and VOILA! I have no idea why it worked, but it somehow reset it. No problems since. All keys work again. I suppose that the ECM could be going out - but if you are stuck and just need to get it started (even to just get it to a mechanic), it might be worth a shot. Please, no lectures here about the silliness of it all. It simply worked and I wanted to share. If it helps one person, then I suppose it's worth the time to type it. Best wishes to all! : )

 

[Explorer Jeff]

truck wont start anti-theft light flashes rapidly. owner manual states to call dealer. does vehicle have go to dealer or is there reset that can be done at home

Engine does not start: LED flashes rapidly...

Leave ignition on until the LED starts to flash a 2 digit code (sequence/pause/sequence)
Check the following codes:
Code flashes:
1:3 Key code not received. Is key screened by other keys or objects? Try different key: if okay then first key is faulty. If not go to dealer.
1:4 Partial code only received. Try again. If not okay use different key. If not go to dealer.
1:5 Key not programmed into PATS. Program key(s) using locksmith/dealer, or 2 keys of your own which work.
1:6 Faulty link between PATS module and EECV. Go to dealer.

 

[showpony2010bc]

relay switch could be the problem.

ok guys.. my turn to contribute.... I just went through this same problem with my 2000 explorer... damn anti theft light blinking, not starting.... after spending $350 at the local dealer and not fixing the problem I got mine fixed... It was a simple electronic relay switch. under hood, drivers side.. relay # FOAB-14B192-AA about 1"square relay..
repair relay part # listed as: FOAZ-14N089-A about $20 for the relay...
works perfect now.... what a headache.... perfectly maintained, but wouldn't start because of a faulty relay switch... needless to say the original $350 was money thrown away for nothing...

repair sheet states: NO START. THEFT LIGHT BLINKS RUN SELF TEST. NO COMMUNICATION WITH PCM. TEST PCM POWER & GROUND CIRCUITS. NO VOLTAGE PRESENT AT PCM CONNECTOR. PCM POWER RELAY STICKING, CAUSING NO START CONCERN. REPLACE PCM POWER RELAY, RUN SELF TEST AND REPAIRED VERIFIED...

hope this helps someone else and eliminates a great deal of unnecessary headaches..

good luck... shwpony2010bc

 

[Cobraguy]

ok guys.. my turn to contribute.... I just went through this same problem with my 2000 explorer... damn anti theft light blinking, not starting.... after spending $350 at the local dealer and not fixing the problem I got mine fixed... It was a simple electronic relay switch. under hood, drivers side.. relay # FOAB-14B192-AA about 1"square relay..
repair relay part # listed as: FOAZ-14N089-A about $20 for the relay...
works perfect now.... what a headache.... perfectly maintained, but wouldn't start because of a faulty relay switch... needless to say the original $350 was money thrown away for nothing...

repair sheet states: NO START. THEFT LIGHT BLINKS RUN SELF TEST. NO COMMUNICATION WITH PCM. TEST PCM POWER & GROUND CIRCUITS. NO VOLTAGE PRESENT AT PCM CONNECTOR. PCM POWER RELAY STICKING, CAUSING NO START CONCERN. REPLACE PCM POWER RELAY, RUN SELF TEST AND REPAIRED VERIFIED...

hope this helps someone else and eliminates a great deal of unnecessary headaches..

good luck... shwpony2010bc

I wonder why that would trigger the PATS light...

I think I'm going to go out and duplicate that and see what happens. I find that very interesting.

 

[trebormesos]

No Start

Having the same issue on a 2010 Ford Flex.

rapid flashing theft LED
random no start... nothing no clicking
Sometimes putting in N and back into Park has helped

I just got a call from the FORD Dealership and they say their best technician said it is the starter. I am worried that it is not.

 

[njkode]

Having the same issue on a 2010 Ford Flex.

rapid flashing theft LED
random no start... nothing no clicking
Sometimes putting in N and back into Park has helped

I just got a call from the FORD Dealership and they say their best technician said it is the starter. I am worried that it is not.

When it does start does it start strong?
When you pick it up, I'd ask them what their plan is when this doesnt solve the problem since you do not think they diagnosed it correctly.

 

[Dezza85]

PATS theft light flashes

Hi guys,
First things first i replaced the dash and the ecus attached, so pats module and the gem I beleive. (yes I'm silly and if I knew what I no now I wouldn't have...)
The the engine wont crank at all, and the after the rapid flashing of the theft light the pats module was giving code 1-5 (1:5 Key not programmed into PATS. Program key as above using master )
OK I thought it was a case of getting the keys coded to the pats system.... so payed for a new key to be cut as it requires 2 keys to program. the locksmith programmed the keys but couldn't get the light to stop flashing and start the engine.
So now the engine cranks but don't start and the new code is 1-6 (1:6 Faulty link between PATS module and EECV Go to dealer)
Now i'm stuck.
What can i do as i cant afford to take it to the dealer. I would prefer to buy a cheep scanner/programmer that can do the job, does any1 know of one. Or is there any1 in Adelaide, Australia with one that could help?
does the pats module need to be paired to the eecv? is this the issue?
I have searched the forum intently to find an answer and appoligise if i missed one.
im sure this has been done before no doubt, so please help! im pulling my hair out.

 

[Dezza85]

Sorry it was on a 1998 ford explorer

 

[DMF0104]

PATS connected to transmission in any way??

Hi guys, Sorry to drag this dead horse through the mud one more time, but I'm at a loss and my mechanic husband is also at a loss.
He just changed the transmission in our 98 exp (last year the car decided it wouldn't move anymore and it had to be towed home where it sat till this week)
When he went to start it to go test the new (old) trans , it wouldn't start. Did schrader test etc determined no fuel to engine , replaced fuel pump. Tried again nada. So I went hunting here and found the thread about PATS issues and sure enough the theft light goes ballistic when key turned . Only one key (has crack but had it when the car was working perfectly)

Is is possible that something different happened when the transmission was changed? is there a possibility the trans has something to do with the PATS not working? I'm at my wits end and hoping for some suggestions as I'm REALLY tired of begging rides from people while he's at work.

 

[2000StreetRod]

No PATS to transmission interface

There is no interface between PATS and the transmission.
Try cleaning the crankshaft position sensor connector contacts by disconnecting/reconnecting the connector a few times.

 

[DMF0104]

There is no interface between PATS and the transmission.
Try cleaning the crankshaft position sensor connector contacts by disconnecting/reconnecting the connector a few times.

Thanks for the help Much appreciated! I didn't think there was an actual connection between the trans and the pats but I was concerned there was something that got moved/bent/spindled/mutilated while replacing.

We physically changed the CPS but didn't clean contacts. I checked ford documentation and the year car I have does not have a cut off for engine if PATS is involved. We tested the new (and the old) fuel pump and both work fine(80bux wasted) I have hit the point where if it's not a short/ground or otherwise , I have to concluded the key no longer is speaking to the PATS for some reason as that's the only thing I can think of. (also changed the relay for the fuel pump in case it was that.) Basically we're looking for a needle in a hay stack at the moment.

Will have husband clean contacts tonight and pray the car turns over.

 

[1998Exp]

Just to make sure you are not overlooking the obvious: have you checked the PATS controller fuse (#25 in the box next to the driver's door)?

We physically changed the CPS but didn't clean contacts. I checked ford documentation and the year car I have does not have a cut off for engine if PATS is involved. We tested the new (and the old) fuel pump and both work fine(80bux wasted) I have hit the point where if it's not a short/ground or otherwise , I have to concluded the key no longer is speaking to the PATS for some reason as that's the only thing I can think of. (also changed the relay for the fuel pump in case it was that.) Basically we're looking for a needle in a hay stack at the moment.

Will have husband clean contacts tonight and pray the car turns over.

 

[DMF0104]

Just to make sure you are not overlooking the obvious: have you checked the PATS controller fuse (#25 in the box next to the driver's door)?

He blew that fuse last night and replaced it. But just checked it again to make sure. was hoping .

Cleaned contacts on CPS no love there.
There's power going to the fuel pump , so there should be no reason it isn't allowing fuel to come to the engine. But no matter what it squirts a half a second and then nothing.

It's starved for fuel. If we use ether can get it to turn over and run for about 25 seconds. then it obviously dies.

 

[2000StreetRod]

fuel pump relay

The fuel pump relay is controlled by the PCM. When the ignition switch is turned to Run the PCM only enables the relay for a few seconds unless it detects the crankshaft rotating via the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor output. Normally when the ignition switch is in start the fuel pump relay is energized because the PCM detects the crankshaft rotating via the CKP sensor. The design reduces a fire hazard.

PATS is implemented in different ways for different years. On my 2000 Sport when "THEFT" is rapidly flashing and the starter is cranked the fuel pump runs but the fuel injectors are disabled. On some earlier years (I don't know when) the fuel pump relay is disabled.

If your fuel pump runs when the starter is cranking then your CKP sensor is good and your issue is PATS related.

When the transmission was swapped was the area behind the dash near the ignition switch or steering column disturbed? I think I read there is a fine wire near the ignition switch that is easily broken.

 

[2000StreetRod]

wiring diagram

Here's the PATS wiring diagram for a 1998 with the V6.

The PCM communicates with the PATS module via the Data Link bus.

 

[DMF0104]

Thanks! That is what I was hunting for, something that could have been disturbed when removing/reinstalling trans. I'll have him check this out; tonight.
(edited because two words together instantly became a link I didn't include)

 

[DMF0104]

Grandbabies had winter concert last night (totally forgot ) So we didn't get to check the wiring. I ordered a service manual on CD stated ford co so hoping it's got the information I need even if it's a knock off. Still hoping for someone who's dealt with this issue to stumble upon my post and offer the patent solution. Meanwhile , we'll check wiring tonight and hope we find the issue.
Thanks again for your assistance [MENTION=111113]2000StreetRod[/MENTION]. I really appreciate your time and expertise.

*edit: added @ symbol

 

[DMF0104]

The fuel pump relay is controlled by the PCM. When the ignition switch is turned to Run the PCM only enables the relay for a few seconds unless it detects the crankshaft rotating via the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor output. Normally when the ignition switch is in start the fuel pump relay is energized because the PCM detects the crankshaft rotating via the CKP sensor. The design reduces a fire hazard.

PATS is implemented in different ways for different years. On my 2000 Sport when "THEFT" is rapidly flashing and the starter is cranked the fuel pump runs but the fuel injectors are disabled. On some earlier years (I don't know when) the fuel pump relay is disabled.

If your fuel pump runs when the starter is cranking then your CKP sensor is good and your issue is PATS related.

When the transmission was swapped was the area behind the dash near the ignition switch or steering column disturbed? I think I read there is a fine wire near the ignition switch that is easily broken.

No love. All wires appear in good condition and where they're supposed to be. CKP appears healthy .
back to square 1

 

[2000StreetRod]

clone a key?

Since you mentioned your only key is cracked you might try to clone it. Cloning a key is less expensive than programming the PCM to recognize a new key. I've seen machines with the capability in Ace Hardware and even Walmart. In order to clone a key the machine must read the microchip code on the old key. If the machine can't read it then you know the key is the problem.