2004 explorer > mustang engine swap updates!

[mmasire88]

Wanted to update my progress thus far on my explorer. I have not had much free time the past few months to work on it, but yesterday I spent the day working on it and made good progress.

The replacement motor I purchased...the right cassette was broken in several places, so I installed a new OEM ford cassette, sprocket, and chain.

One of several failed timing related components on the old motor with a descent amount of sludge build up throughout the engine. I purchased a full replacement timing component set from auto parts 4 usa but I was very turned off by the quality of the parts so I decided it was best to go with OEM.

Lovely picture of my old A/C compressor that seems to have grenaded.

Few bumps, bruises, and cuts later....engine coming out!

After pulling the motor I was finally able to see the cause of destruction to my motor. The right cassette is completely shattered, a big chunk of aluminum from the reinforced backing on the cassette broke off and lodged itself between the chain and head causing the camshaft to freeze up. I'm thinking this motor may still be good for a rebuilt, as the right head is the only side that may have some bent valves. I'll tear it down later and post some pictures, stay tuned!

I do have a question, I was reading a post from an earlier explorer to mustang motor swap and I read the torque converter to flex plate bolts are torque to yield...Is this the case for my converter bolts as well? I was planning on putting the new motor back into the truck today, hopefully I don't have to run around sourcing new bolts!

 

[2000StreetRod]

torque converter bolts

According to my 2000 Explorer/Mountaineer Workshop Manual:
Torque converter to flywheel nuts: 35 lb-ft
Some members don't reuse the torque converter nuts because the corners are easily rounded due to the awkward access. I think the torque converter bolts are pressed in and not easily replaced.

The above is not indicative of TTY bolts. However, the flexplate/flywheel to crankshaft bolts indicate TTY bolts:
Flywheel/driveplate bolts: (Haynes)
...Thru 1999: Step 1: 19 to 25 ft-lbs, Step 2: plus 90 deg
...2000: Step 1: 10 ft-lbs, Step 2: 52 ft-lbs

2005 Mustang Engine Assembly Instructions:

 

[2000StreetRod]

camshaft oiler tubes?

I am surprised to see in the first photo camshaft oiler tubes. I thought they were deleted in 2004. What is the date of your engine? The last 8 digits of the VIN are stamped on the driver side rear of the V6 block just below the head.

The tenth digit of the 17 digit VIN indicates the year of manufacture. The identifier changed in 2001 [1998(W), 1999(X), 2000(Y)------2001(1), 2002(2), 2003(3)]
Also, did you have any trouble removing the left cassette guide assembly with the head in place? Ford changed either the head or block casting around 2004 making it very difficult to extract the guide assembly without removing the head.

 

[mmasire88]

I am surprised to see in the first photo camshaft oiler tubes. I thought they were deleted in 2004. What is the date of your engine? The last 8 digits of the VIN are stamped on the driver side rear of the V6 block just below the head.
View attachment 84532
The tenth digit of the 17 digit VIN indicates the year of manufacture. The identifier changed in 2001 [1998(W), 1999(X), 2000(Y)------2001(1), 2002(2), 2003(3)]
Also, did you have any trouble removing the left cassette guide assembly with the head in place? Ford changed either the head or block casting around 2004 making it very difficult to extract the guide assembly without removing the head.

I checked the date on the motor I pulled from the mustang - Dec. 3 2014, and my old motor says 11-24-13. I was expecting to have to swap some stuff over from my old motor...However, once the accessories and brackets were removed from the mustang motor, it was absolutely identical to my explorer motor...oil dipstick, sensors, harmonic balancer. The only major difference I found between the two were the injectors from the mustang were a bit taller and required spacers between the fuel rail mounting bracket and where the bracket fastened to the head. The swap went exceptionally well! I lowered the motor down into the engine bay, got it nice and level with the transmission, gave it a small push and the two mated together like two magnets, it was absolutely wonderful.

As far as the left cassette goes I did not replace that one. The one that's currently in looks fantastic and shows absolutely no signs of wear that I can see. The right cassette was the same despite the fact the guide had broken in half at the pivot point, which I believe is fairly common, no? The right guide was a bit of a pain at first. There seems to be a random bolt right next to the chain that goes through part of the head, and down near the jackshaft sprocket blocking the sprocket from coming out. Once removed, that cassette went in and out nicely.

I will be dismantling my old motor, and looking at the internals so I will be able to get back with you about the left cassette assembly. From what I can tell it looks like all of the intake valves were closed on the right head when I removed the motor. I am thinking I may rebuilt it if there's no serious damage internally and perhaps sell it or find another explorer to swap it into.

Mustang motor is all bolted, and torqued to the transmission and mounts, fuel injectors swapped over. I ran out of energy for the day, really just wanted to get the heavy lifting and more "labor" intensive work done and out of the way.

Also, I found a brand new set of OEM ford exhaust manifolds on ebay for under 40$ total. I was pretty ecstatic, as my old ones were pretty nasty looking, and broken/stripped studs when I was trying to remove them.

 

[jdmitrswapped]

You made it look way too easy !!

 

[ANTHONY-GATLIN]

nice just keep up the good work

 

[mmasire88]

Is sludge buildup common in these motors? As you can see in the motor I removed from my explorer the entire motor has a pretty descent amount of sludge. I've actually never seen anything like it in any other motor I've worked on. It's thick and it covers pretty much everything. What causes this? Lack of oil changes? Improper oil? Moisture in the crankcase/engine not ventilating properly? It would be nice to avoid this in my new motor if possible.

 

[2000StreetRod]

sludge

I purchased my Sport from a tow truck driver who pulled the vehicle from the highway after being abandoned. I learned that the previous owner lived in Texas. When I pulled the valve covers to inspect the timing chain cassettes I found plenty of sludge.

I think the sludge was due to a low temperature thermostat to compensate for a single core radiator. Numerous short trips. Infrequent oil changes. I replaced the single core radiator with a double core and installed a standard thermostat.

 

[jester1614]

I purchased my Sport from a tow truck driver who pulled the vehicle from the highway after being abandoned. I learned that the previous owner lived in Texas. When I pulled the valve covers to inspect the timing chain cassettes I found plenty of sludge.
View attachment 84598
View attachment 84599
I think the sludge was due to a low temperature thermostat to compensate for a single core radiator. Numerous short trips. Infrequent oil changes. I replaced the single core radiator with a double core and installed a standard thermostat.

Wow that is absolutely nasty

 

[mmasire88]

Yea, I will have to agree that looks really bad! I'd be interested to know whether your bigger radiator, and frequent synthetic oil changes have been able to break slowly break away any of that sludge.

At this point I have not decided on whether to keep the explorer or not. I'm not sure I trust it to be considered a daily driver and I sure as heck don't want to have to repair any more chains. I may wind up looking for an explorer with the Ford 289 v8 motor. A v8 swap was something I considered but I just do not have the time to invest in buying a parts truck and dealing with swapping everything over to mine.

 

[2000StreetRod]

4.6l v8

The Ford factory never installed a 289 V8 in a production Explorer. The 5.0L (302) V8 was installed in the 2nd Gen and the 4.6L V8 was installed in the 3rd and later Gens. In my opinion since factory 4.6L vehicles are available its not worth the trouble or cost to replace the V6 with a V8.

I spent a lot of time cleaning the valve train with brushes and a squirt bottle filled with engine flush before reassembly. Even though I only drive my Sport about 3,000 miles per year I change the oil twice a year. I do an engine flush before every other oil change and still do not have a clean engine. I think a hot tank soak is the only way to get all of the caked sludge off.