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Dead battery lessons learned

Holligl

Well-Known Member
Joined
February 5, 2011
Messages
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City, State
Hoffman Estates, IL
Year, Model & Trim Level
2011 Limited Platinum
Recently went to an amusement park and came out to a totally dead battery. Several things precluded a simple jump as I carry jumper cables in the spare tire well.

1. Could not figure out how to get it in to neutral to back it out of the parking space.
2. could not open the tailgate, nor move the folded down seats to access the jumper cables, since both are electrical.

$50+ tow truck jump lessons: Make sure nothing is left on, and keep jumper cables accessible. Yet to learn - How do you get a 5th Gen into neutral with a dead battery?
 



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Recently went to an amusement park and came out to a totally dead battery. Several things precluded a simple jump as I carry jumper cables in the spare tire well.

1. Could not figure out how to get it in to neutral to back it out of the parking space.
2. could not open the tailgate, nor move the folded down seats to access the jumper cables, since both are electrical.

$50+ tow truck jump lessons: Make sure nothing is left on, and keep jumper cables accessible. Yet to learn - How do you get a 5th Gen into neutral with a dead battery?

As far as shifting with a dead battery check the owner's manual. It is in there.
 






As far as shifting with a dead battery check the owner's manual. It is in there.

FROM THE OWNERS MANUAL

BRAKE-SHIFT INTERLOCK
This vehicle is equipped with a brake-shift interlock (BSI) feature that
prevents the gearshift lever from being moved from P (Park) when the
ignition is in the on position unless the brake pedal is pressed.
If you cannot move the gearshift lever out of P (Park) with ignition in
the on position and the brake pedal pressed, it is possible that a fuse has
blown or the vehicle’s brake lamps are not operating properly. Refer to
Fuses and relays in the Roadside Emergencies chapter.
If the fuse is not blown and the brake lamps are working properly, the
following procedure will allow you to move the gearshift lever from P (Park):
1. Apply the parking brake and turn the ignition off.
2. Open the small forward storage compartment, and remove the
rubber protective cover.
3. Using a screwdriver (or similar tool), carefully pry off and remove
the BSI access cover.
4. Locate the brake shift interlock lever in front of the shifter assembly.
5. Apply the brake pedal. Gently pull and hold the brake shift interlock lever while pulling the gearshift lever out of the P (Park) position and into the N (Neutral) position.
6. Install the BSI access cover.
7. Apply the brake pedal, start the vehicle, and release the parking brake.
See your authorized dealer as soon as possible if this procedure
is used.
 






That's one of the reasons that "first move forward" is important. Most companies have instituted this in their automotive policies where you are required to back into any parking space so that your first move is always forward. This also allows access to your engine compartment if things like a dead battery occur. It's a good thing to keep in mind.
 






I don't understand why vehicles are given owner's manuals and the owners don't bother to read them.
 






I don't understand why vehicles are given owner's manuals and the owners don't bother to read them.

Then there would be no use for this forum. Some people just need easy layman's terms. I can tell you everyone in my generation resorts to Google first before even touching anything close to a book. It's just faster that way ( most of the time ).
 






We keep in both our cars 4 gauge / 25ft jumper jumper cables. They are long enough to avoid any access issues due to forward parking. Used them several times to help others; works like a charm.
 






Then there would be no use for this forum. Some people just need easy layman's terms. I can tell you everyone in my generation resorts to Google first before even touching anything close to a book. It's just faster that way ( most of the time ).

I agree to an extent but if you are stranded somewhere and your options are to look in your owners manual or call a tow truck.. what would you do??

I just don't get it sometimes..
 






We keep in both our cars 4 gauge / 25ft jumper jumper cables. They are long enough to avoid any access issues due to forward parking. Used them several times to help others; works like a charm.

I think mine are 20 feet but they are long enough to go front to rear or side to side. Haven't had to use them for the Ex but have jumped a few people with them.
 






I don't understand why vehicles are given owner's manuals and the owners don't bother to read them.

I did pull out the manual and could not find the "Brake Interlock Feature" quickly. As Stated previously, this was only ONE of the issues. How would you have extracted my booster cables? Thanks for your help Blwnsmoke!
 






Better than jumper cables, give this a go:

http://amzn.com/B00T2GT9L4

I bought one for my trip to Disney recently just in case. Haven't used it yet, but am on the look out for a car/truck that needs jumping to try it.
 






........$50+ tow truck jump lessons: Make sure nothing is left on, and keep jumper cables accessible. Yet to learn - How do you get a 5th Gen into neutral with a dead battery?
I believe the only thing the battery saver program does not turn off is the Parking Lights.

Peter
 






I believe the only thing the battery saver program does not turn off is the Parking Lights.

Peter

Still have not figured why it went dead. It was totally drained. As I walked away it did look like the APIM was resetting, but I did not think that would be a problem. There was a phone charger plugged in but that is not normally an issue. Has not had a problem since. Battery is only 6 months old.
 






Is it the original factory-installed battery? If so, then it's 4-5 years old, depending on your build date. So it could be that the battery is just reaching the end of its life span, and beginning to fail. In addition to my Explorer, my wife has a '11 Edge, and the battery (original) started doing this same thing last fall. After doing this several times, I decided to replace it. That cured all the problems.

My '11 Explorer also still has its original battery. No problems with it yet, but we have a long road trip coming up this summer, so I'm probably going to replace it as a proactive/preventive measure before we leave.
 






Is it the original factory-installed battery? If so, then it's 4-5 years old, depending on your build date. So it could be that the battery is just reaching the end of its life span, and beginning to fail. In addition to my Explorer, my wife has a '11 Edge, and the battery (original) started doing this same thing last fall. After doing this several times, I decided to replace it. That cured all the problems.

My '11 Explorer also still has its original battery. No problems with it yet, but we have a long road trip coming up this summer, so I'm probably going to replace it as a proactive/preventive measure before we leave.

Replaced in January.
 






Better than jumper cables, give this a go:

http://amzn.com/B00T2GT9L4

I bought one for my trip to Disney recently just in case. Haven't used it yet, but am on the look out for a car/truck that needs jumping to try it.

I bought the same one sale for $60. I have not used it yet either but its in the car for backup.
 






Replaced in January.

wow. have you checked the charging system fully? have to inspected the cables for corrosion at the ends - especially at the alternator and body ground?


you could have gotten a bad battery

you could have overheated a battery that was non sealed and boiled out the electrolyte.
 






wow. have you checked the charging system fully? have to inspected the cables for corrosion at the ends - especially at the alternator and body ground?


you could have gotten a bad battery

you could have overheated a battery that was non sealed and boiled out the electrolyte.
Re-Cleaned the terminals for good measure and replaced the anti-corrosion pads when I got home. Everything looks pretty good. No problems since. As I said in the earlier post I did see the MFT resetting when I walked away in the lot. I wonder if it got in some reboot loop. Usually when I have had batteries die you get some clicking when trying to start, and a few lights. This was dead like there was no battery.
 






Re-Cleaned the terminals for good measure and replaced the anti-corrosion pads when I got home. Everything looks pretty good. No problems since. As I said in the earlier post I did see the MFT resetting when I walked away in the lot. I wonder if it got in some reboot loop. Usually when I have had batteries die you get some clicking when trying to start, and a few lights. This was dead like there was no battery.

some newer cars as a protection circuit for the electronics (low voltage does strange things and often bad things to electronics) it will sense battery voltage is too low - and shunt off the battery completely from the rest of the car.

My G8 does this and I noted it on my neighbors Lexus.

did you check at the alternator? did you check the charging circuit? IE put the car on a tester or do the 4 step check with a multimeter?
 



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My battery went out last week, suddenly with no warning. It just died, at 3 yrs old, and disabled the car (the OE battery died of a short at 6 months). It seems the cars with the newer electronics don't give you any warning of impending battery failure, like slower cranking on start, like the cars of yore. Must be the new electronic circuits like on previous post.
 






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