Engine Flushing (oil) Recommendations?

[koda2000]

I really think I need to flush my engine out. I have the feeling it has a lot of sludge in it. I've changed the oil once with cheap oil to clean things out a bit, but I'd like to do more. I know Gunk makes an engine flush. Has anyone used something like this? Any tips?

Once I flush the engine I plan to remove the sump and see what I find. Every once in a while I get a noise (sounds just like a conventional sticking pushrod lifter, just one). It will tick for maybe 15 seconds and then all is quite again. It's not a bad timing chain kind of noise. Like I said, it hasn't done it often (2-3 times), but it makes me think there's a lot of crap in the motor.

 

[2000StreetRod]

I use Gunk

Gunk is not as powerful as some flushes. I follow the directions on the bottle and flush every other oil change. If there is a lot of sludge in the engine and a powerful flush is used the loosened sludge can block oil passages. You should never drive a vehicle with flush in the engine because it weakens the oil bearing protection.

 

[colintrax]

I've had good luck with gunk, sure doesn't hurt to try.

 

[Phantom]

I have used Seafoam many times with good results.

 

[swshawaii]

From what I've read BG Engine Purge is one of the most powerful cleaners available, although it's not cheap or easy to find.

https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/engine/bg-engine-purge/

http://www.petrotech.co.il/PetroTech//userdata/SendFile.asp?DBID=1&LNGID=2&GID=510

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BG-Products-Engine-Purge-/261841670979

 

[koda2000]

From what I've read BG Engine Purge is one of the most powerful cleaners available, although it's not cheap or easy to find.

https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/engine/bg-engine-purge/

http://www.petrotech.co.il/PetroTech//userdata/SendFile.asp?DBID=1&LNGID=2&GID=510

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BG-Products-Engine-Purge-/261841670979

With how much sludge may be in this engine, I'm afraid to put something too powerful in it. I think I'll start with a Gunk flush and repeat with the next couple of oil changes and see how it goes. I'll pull the sump after the first flush and see what I find.

Does the sump use a gasket or RTV?

 

[delexploder]

I have always used kerosene or mineral spirits, I actually use mineral spirits in my parts washer also

 

[jester1023]

Amsoil Engine Flush. Follow the directions and you WON'T be sorry. I have personally seen the benefits of running Amsoil in an engine. I was a cylinder head specialist at a very reputable machine shop that had an engine dyno and sold Amsoil. We ran an experiment on 2 identically built Chevy small blocks for the same circle track team. One of the engines had the same Valvoline racing oil they had used for years and the other got Amsoil. The engine with the Amsoil made more power initially, but because of the reduced friction it was wanting more jetting in the carb, which ended up increasing the HP a little more. At the season half way point, the owner brought them both in for a freshening up. The rings and bearings showed more sings of wear in the Valvoline engine than the same parts in the Amsoil engine. To further the experiment, we switched which engine ran the Amsoil. That engine then required the extra jetting and made more power. The owner demanded they both left the shop with Amsoil. We did this because he gave us the most resistance on the switch and we wanted a true sceptic for the experiment. All of my stock, performance and fleet vehicles run Amsoil and I would have to see with my own eyes, if someone said there was a better oil. I have run the Engine Flush in numerous engines, from low mile new to high mile abused. The only side effect I've had over the years is a couple front seals and rear mains began to leak on higher mile engines. I have heard, as with anything designed to desludge an engine, of sludge breaking loose and clogging the oil pump pickup screen.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Rubber gasket

. . . Does the sump use a gasket or RTV?

The OEM SOHC V6 lower pan gasket is rubber with spacers to avoid over tightening. I reused mine with gasket sealer since it was superior to the new aftermarket one available at my local discount auto parts store. Some of the spacers may fall out when the pan is removed so be careful not to lose any and reinstall all of them.

 

[koda2000]

The OEM SOHC V6 lower pan gasket is rubber with spacers to avoid over tightening. I reused mine with gasket sealer since it was superior to the new aftermarket one available at my local discount auto parts store. Some of the spacers may fall out when the pan is removed so be careful not to lose any and reinstall all of them.

Ok, Thanks.

 

[Kjhadfield]

I'm interested in doing the sea foam but looking for some clarification.

I can use the motor treatment in the oil (pouring 1-2 oz per quart into oil tube) then change oil in the next 100 miles (it's about due anyway)
I can use the motor treatment in the fuel (pouring 1-2 oz per gallon into fuel tank)
I can use the sea foam spray/cleaner (w/ hook tube thing) hooked onto the tb (w/ rpms at 1500-2000) and spray the whole can slowly

Can I do all 3 same time and anything else I should be aware of? Any other way of applying on our sport tracs- safely.

 

[koda2000]

I'm interested in doing the sea foam but looking for some clarification.

I can use the motor treatment in the oil (pouring 1-2 oz per quart into oil tube) then change oil in the next 100 miles (it's about due anyway)
I can use the motor treatment in the fuel (pouring 1-2 oz per gallon into fuel tank)
I can use the sea foam spray/cleaner (w/ hook tube thing) hooked onto the tb (w/ rpms at 1500-2000) and spray the whole can slowly

Can I do all 3 same time and anything else I should be aware of? Any other way of applying on our sport tracs- safely.

Personally, I think SeaFoam is snake oil (JMHO) but if you put into the intake (however you introduce it) be very careful, if you pour it in to quickly you can hydro-lock your engine and even bend a connecting rod. If you've ever seen the crud that builds up inside an intake manifold you'd know that pouring a liquid through it isn't going to help.

If you want to use something scientifically proven to clean you injectors and intake valves, get yourself some Chevron Techron FI and/or Fuel System Cleaner. They go in your fuel tank.

 

[Fpo]

Here is before and After on a customers car using the AMSOIL Engine & Trans flush

After....

Here is the link to the product http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...nd-transmission-flush/?GroupID=953&zo=1667299

Not Bad for $10

 

[koda2000]

Here is before and After on a customers car using the AMSOIL Engine & Trans flush

After....

Here is the link to the product http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...nd-transmission-flush/?GroupID=953&zo=1667299

Not Bad for $10

That's impressive!

 

[Fpo]

That's impressive!

Yep, you pour it into the old oil, idle engine 15 min, then change oil as normal.

Super easy.
A few years ago my friend was a skeptic, so we changed the oil in his honda civic with some cheap oil , poured the flush into the new oil, ran it 15 min. The oil that came out 15 min later looked like it had ran a full cycle.

He has been a customer since

If you want more info or to place an order feel free to contact me through my website or PM me here.

 

[Fpo]

Personally, I think SeaFoam is snake oil (JMHO) but if you put into the intake (however you introduce it) be very careful, if you pour it in to quickly you can hydro-lock your engine and even bend a connecting rod. If you've ever seen the crud that builds up inside an intake manifold you'd know that pouring a liquid through it isn't going to help.

If you want to use something scientifically proven to clean you injectors and intake valves, get yourself some Chevron Techron FI and/or Fuel System Cleaner. They go in your fuel tank.

The Chevron is a good product, We used it in the trucks when I worked at ExxonMobil ( That is saying something...)

But I really like the AMSOIL PI http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...over-gasoline-additive/?GroupID=83&zo=1667299

it is one of my favorite products.
Here is a image from a customer after using only 1 bottle

 

[koda2000]

Yep, you pour it into the old oil, idle engine 15 min, then change oil as normal.

Super easy.
A few years ago my friend was a skeptic, so we changed the oil in his honda civic with some cheap oil , poured the flush into the new oil, ran it 15 min. The oil that came out 15 min later looked like it had ran a full cycle.

He has been a customer since

If you want more info or to place an order feel free to contact me through my website or PM me here.

I picked up a bottle of Motor Medic engine flush at Walmart today (around $5). I'm going to throw it in and run the engine for the recommended 5 mins, then drain the oil and pull the sump to see what I find. As long as I don't see pieces of timing chain plastic/metal in the sump or pickup screen, I'll get hold of some Amsoil flush and flush it again in a few hundred miles. I'm a little afraid of using something too powerful and maybe some piece of loosened sludge plugging a vital oil passage. After changing the oil the first time, the new oil looked pretty dirty in only around a 100 miles or so. Not the pitch black like the oil I originally drained out, but see-through brown. I also might cut open the oil filter and see what's inside. Frankly I'm afraid of what I'm going to find, but the engine runs quite & smooth for the most part and is very powerful, so I'm hoping for the best.

 

[shucker1]

Actually during WWII my father was a flight engineer on a PBY Catalina.

He swore by diesel \ kerosene fuel in the oil to flush out an engine.

They would put in 2 quarts, run the engines up to 1500 RPM "no load" for 5 minutes and then change the old stuff out.

They would also clean all the spark plugs after every patrol. When I asked why I was told "Do you really want to be 600 miles from land and lose an engine?"

Chris

 

[chefduane]

I picked up a bottle of Motor Medic engine flush at Walmart today (around $5). I'm going to throw it in and run the engine for the recommended 5 mins, then drain the oil and pull the sump to see what I find. As long as I don't see pieces of timing chain plastic/metal in the sump or pickup screen, I'll get hold of some Amsoil flush and flush it again in a few hundred miles. I'm a little afraid of using something too powerful and maybe some piece of loosened sludge plugging a vital oil passage. After changing the oil the first time, the new oil looked pretty dirty in only around a 100 miles or so. Not the pitch black like the oil I originally drained out, but see-through brown. I also might cut open the oil filter and see what's inside. Frankly I'm afraid of what I'm going to find, but the engine runs quite & smooth for the most part and is very powerful, so I'm hoping for the best.

Koda,
I'd be interested to hear about your findings on this. I've been thinking about doing and engine flush on my 197k SOHC but am also concerned about loosening up gunk that might foul oil passages. I have been very conscientious about doing regular scheduled oil changes over the life of the vehicle, and have been running Mobil-1 exclusively for about 2 years now. Given that, I may just run the Amsoil product through figuring my engine is fairly clean anyway. BUT, I'd rather err on the cautious side.

PS: If anyone knows an >active< Amsoil dealer here in the Dallas area I'd like their info. I've tried emailing a few that are listed locally and can't get one to respond. Hmph.

 

[Fpo]

PS: If anyone knows an >active< Amsoil dealer here in the Dallas area I'd like their info. I've tried emailing a few that are listed locally and can't get one to respond. Hmph.

I'm as Active as it gets... I'm also a ExplorerForum vendor.:exp:

I service all 50 states and Canada.

I can help you with everything from product selection to obtaining a wholesale account.

Feel free to pm me on here or send me a email Jgordon@firstplaceoils.com