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pre lube and centrifugal engine oil filters

david4451

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City, State
cotabato philippines
Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 ford sport trac
My 2001 4wd sport trac has only 60k kilometers on it, it has the rattle sometimes at start up. Having read so many posts about timing chain problems, plus the engine out and special tools needed to fix cassettes l am in the process of fitting a pre oiler.
I have checked oil pressure at the fake pressure gauge outlet which is 20 psi and at the filter adaptor I made from engineering plastic, which is 22 psi, engine warm at 700 rpm. The oil is 5 - 30 magnum full synthetic.
This occasional rattle scares me as it is an indication that things can only get worse. The rear tensioner is good, but drains of oil when engine is not running, over a period of two days. I have removed spark plug cables and fuel pump relay, cranked the engine until there is slight oil pressure and there is zero rattle on start up, ever. My honest conclusion is that the lack of oil in the tensioner after standing causes fatigue and failure of plastic in timing cassettes.
Hence the immenent fitting of a pre oiler pump.
The next thing to fit, is a centrifugal oil filter, does any one have any experience these, any advise would be greatly appreciated. From researching these on the net it looks as if they will clean the oil down to half a micron particle size. This is way way better than your 20 micron standard oil filter, plus
The oil stays clean from soot etc so it seems.
The setup I envisage is pre oiler pump(40 to 60 psi)at startup, then valve closes off pre oiler and redirects oil pan oil through centifuge oil filter and clean oil sent back to oil pan, which is then pumped by normal engine oil pump around block, the standard oil filter is still in place, on my engineering plastic adaptor. The pre oiler pump has a dual task ie pre oiling through filter adaptor and pumping pan oil at 40 to 60 psi through centrifugal oil filter. This pressure spins the centrifuge up to 6000 rpm, allowing only cleaned oil back into oil pan

Any help, constructive criticism, advise welcomed.
Cetrifuge is on hold.
Well the progress is slow but hopefully sure, I've ordered parts and they are being shipped here as I type (6 September 2015).
The pre oiler is a gear pump from Amarine Made (China product) from Amazon for $78. It is my affordable choice producing 20 to 30 psi. I really do not know if this will work, but spinning the engine with fuel filter relay out and plugs disconnected shows very small pressure on gauge and prevents timing chain rattle. I'm assuming this pump will have a bigger effect on oil pressure.

With this pump I've ordered a remote control and suitable relays for easy on off operation, we'll see.
Other add ons ordered are elctric fan, remote oil filter, large transmission cooler and garden nome for the bonnet (hood)ha ha

More to come in a month or two(all items by sea freight from USA to Philippines).
 



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Centrifugal Oil filters "Spinners" were all the rage about 10+ years ago one the large bore stationary units I work on.

Almost all of the major pipeline companies used then on their units. Gradually everyone has gone back to the old standard cellulose drop in filters and monitor filter conditions by engine hours or a Differential Pressure Sensor.

As an OEM we never recommended them.

Problem was they would break internally and you never knew it or they would just clog up.

I haven't seen a "Spinner" in service in years.

Perhaps on the automotive side they might be different.
 






bypass oil filter

Another advantage of a pre-oiler is the elimination of dry starts that cause bearing wear. The bearings in a new engine with a pre-oiler would probably easily last more than 500K miles. I have a pre-oiler (Accusump) on my Sport.
Accusump installation in Ford Explorer
I picked it because I wouldn't have to install a pickup port in the bottom of the oil pan. One disadvantage of using a pressurized cylinder as a pre-oiler occurs at oil change. My cylinder holds 3 quarts. To perform a complete oil change I must depressurize the cylinder which means one dry start at each oil change. I think an electric motor driven external oil pump provides a better system. It is extremely convenient after rebuilding an engine.

I use an Amsoil bypass filter in addition to my external full flow filter.
FiltersB4.jpg

If filters much smaller particles than a full flow filter but is much more restrictive so is configured in parallel with the full flow filter. However, eventually it filters all of the oil flowing thru the engine. I've read that after a while the oil in the engine is cleaner than new oil off the shelf. I am not familiar with the centrifugal filters mentioned in your post but the concept seems more complex.
 






That is quite the filter set up 2000StreetRod..

You can buy a complete Bypass filter set up from AMSOIL
You change the regular filter every oil change, and the bypass every other change.

BMK23.jpg


A regular oil filter is 20 micron, The Bypass are 1-2 micron filters
I have a customer with Dodge diesel pickup, he has been going 100,000 miles on 1 oil change ( yes I typed one hundred thousand) ( With oil analysis of course)

More info can be found here http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...d-mounts/?zo=1667299&page=/storefront/bf.aspx

I can save you big money on this if interested...
 












Yes I looked at this and it is debatable if it any better than the one I'm getting. The heat sink looks good but it is basically the same internally for 400! As I've said we will find out if my gear pump will be OK or not.
I also looked at Tilton pumps but they were diaphragm based, not good for hot oil. The best product I found was made by Varna, unfortunately out of my price range, but would definitely do the job well.
 






pre oiler update

Well I've received my pump and I installed it today. IF, IF this pump lasts as long as it looks it will I'm on a winner.
Feed to pump is from oil pan, using banjo bolt with Ball valve in it to prevent reverse flow through pump when engine is running.
My installation was made relatively simple because my battery is in the back, in truck bed. So the pump is located, where the battery was(plenty of space).
The pump then feeds the engineering plastic spacer, with filter under it.
Wiring the pump was simple, and it is switched on and off by remote controller,rated at 15 amps, max current draw of pump is 10 amps.

Well all wired up and ready to test, to be continued in next week.



Only jesting( English sense of humour).
Turned pump on and it primed itself in 6 or 8 seconds the speed of pump reduced as it pressurised engine, and almost immediately, the oil pressure sensor jumped up, had ignition on to see this marvelous event.
Switched off pump , then started cold engine and it was perfect no flare no noise at all. As everyone knows starting these 4l sohc as they get older give that grrrr on start up from cold, I'm really very pleased with the outcome, if this set up lasts and I see no gremlins at all, it has given me peace of mind about weak tensioner springs and that rattle of death.

I can tell you now, pre lube works (I know Dale understands this better than anyone) but for anyone out there with worries about the grrrr on start up PRE LUBE, it will ward off a $1000 plus timing chain job !!!

I'd estimate this cost me $170 to $200, and the peace of mind is priceless. As I've literally just come in from the garage, but will update in a week or two and try to post some pictures. One happy explorer sport trac owner in The Philippines.:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::
 






I'm considering adding a pre-oiling pump to my '01 SOHC. I'm currently in the process of installing the 00M12 tensioner replacement kit w/oil restrictor tube, as I have 184k on the engine and it rattles on cold start with 10W30 weight oil and temps in the 60's (I know 10W30 isn't the correct weight for this engine, but it was okay when the temps were in the 90's). I would also like to create an inexpensive pre-oiling system. Finding an inexpensive pump that will produce adequate pressure is the issue.

I'm very interested in your setup. Please keep us informed.

BTW, I will also be trying Mobil 1 Advanced Full Synthetic 0W30 oil as it's spec'd for engines requiring 5W30, as I'm thinking the thinner cold oil will flow into the tensioners more quickly.
 






pump type

My pump is made by Singflow, it was supplied by Amarine on Amazon, for $78
and it's ok for hot oil. Whatever pump supplier you go for just make sure it's a gear pump. They sell this as a turbo scavenging pump, which will handle hot oil.

I really do not think the sae of your oil is the problem, it's those two hydraulic tensioners, they drain of oil in 3 hours or less giving that awful rattle and ultimately failure of the plastic parts.

From what I know, the restrictor is an attempt to prevent oil drain from tensioner. It may help you until you get round to possibly going the pre lube route. Also the thinner the oil the faster it drains .

Oh yes my pump according to the literature with the pump can produce 30 psi which from first hand experience is fine for pre lube.
 






electric pump?

Thanks for posting! You may have saved me $400. I've been planning an electric pump pre-oiler for a hopefully soon to be delivered 2003 Explorer Limited. Is the one shown below what you have?
AmarinePump.jpg

It says C E on the bottom of the label. How did you determine the max temp of the oil? I couldn't find it specified.

Did you install an inline filter to prevent crud in the bottom of the oil pan being sucked into the pump gears?

Please provide details on the banjo/check ball arrangement.

I'm rebuilding a 4 valve 4.6L for the Limited and don't want to "dry start" it.
 






My pump is made by Singflow, it was supplied by Amarine on Amazon, for $78
and it's ok for hot oil. Whatever pump supplier you go for just make sure it's a gear pump. They sell this as a turbo scavenging pump, which will handle hot oil.

I really do not think the sae of your oil is the problem, it's those two hydraulic tensioners, they drain of oil in 3 hours or less giving that awful rattle and ultimately failure of the plastic parts.

From what I know, the restrictor is an attempt to prevent oil drain from tensioner. It may help you until you get round to possibly going the pre lube route. Also the thinner the oil the faster it drains .

Oh yes my pump according to the literature with the pump can produce 30 psi which from first hand experience is fine for pre lube.

I sometimes go days, or even weeks, w/out starting my SOHC right now, so how quickly the oil drains out isn't my concern. It's how quickly it gets back into the tensioners. With the 10W30 in the summer I had zero noise at startup with temps in the mid to high 90's. Now that it's gotten colder (temps currently in the 50's &60's) it does it every time. It would probably be less noisy if I had 5W30 in it, although the prevailing wisdom seems to be that the tensioners should be replaced every 75,000 miles. As I need to change the oil again soon anyway, I figure I'll try the 0W30.

I'll check out the pump you used. Can you illustrate how you hooked it up (oil line wise). I don't need help with the electrics.
 






pump type

That is exactly my pump, I know I've mentioned hot oil, but unless I want to post lube it will not be used much for hot oil. The CE is some kind of European approval, but it is a China pump and they do tend to bs on things like that. What I will say is it's of robust construction and the thermal overload works, as I left it running for a few minutes and it cutout. It started again after 10 min

Now then I have zero gunge in my sump (oil pan) it looks clean as hell and nothing to worry about. This is a high flow pump when on open flow, honestly they never thought of using it for pre lube, I took a chance on it doing the job, to my expectations it worked very well. As for the Werx 400 dollar pump, I read an article where it said it was hard to prime and foamed the oil. TRUE OR FALSE don't know ! My pump primed fast and you can hear it slow as pressure builds, I left it on only for 6 or 8 seconds once the oil sensor jumps I start the engine simple as that. I had banjo fitting pressed on to 3/8 16000 psi hydraulic hose, because I'm thinking it could get hit by something, but it is really out of the way. The hose goes forward over rack and up to ex battery place

Banjo bolt has a spring and ball bearing in it very simple. Thread is same as original on oil pan but it's off fuel injection filter on Isuzu diesel dump truck I have. I spotted this ages ago and thought it could be a part to use, the lucky bit was the thread being correct.

I've just watched Mexico GP, it's 5:20 am here, funny how can't wait to get outside and start the ST. After pre lube of course !!!

I've had a busy few days on the ST, fitted a 40 inch led light bar and that's another result, damn amazing turns night into day and amazingly good quality. The thing that is more amazing was the price $ 53.00. I know China, but when I was a young man of 20 (45 years ago) anything from Japan was crap, now they are held in high esteem for their vehicles and China is going the same way, only much faster.

Let you know updates and details of set up soon, more to do to relocate filter etc etc.
 






First problem

We'd all like thing to go perfectly but not the case. From cold start this morning pressure sensor jumped up and started the car, all was great.

Let car warm up, switched off, 10 minutes later thought I'll start it again with things much warmer. Switched on ignition, then pump what's this oil pressure sensor not jumping up and pump not making same sound as usual !???

I tried to get pressure 3x nothing. Disconnected IN line and can see down pipe no oil comming up. Of course I'm cheesed off as things were going so well. My thoughts turned to banjo bolt check ball valve. Took out banjo bolt with full oil pan lost about a pint of oil.

The spring behind ball was same pressure as before, but to be honest quite strong. My guess was when oil is hot it's thinner so pump not pulling lighter oil up because spring in banjo bolt too strong.

So opened up bolt, it's roll folded at end not easy but got valve, ball and spring out. I cut about 1/4 inch off spring and re assembled. The ball was easier to push in now and put all back in truck ( lost another pint of oil)

Back in truck ignition on, pump on THE NEEDLE JUMPED UP! The sun was shining, birds were singing and oh what a wonderful world. That fixed the problem and no recurrence hot or cold oil.

Other things fixed this week were, installed new cruise control switch and pressure sensor associated with it, that's working again, also new side mirror switch, that's ok too.
 






We'd all like thing to go perfectly but not the case. From cold start this morning pressure sensor jumped up and started the car, all was great.

Let car warm up, switched off, 10 minutes later thought I'll start it again with things much warmer. Switched on ignition, then pump what's this oil pressure sensor not jumping up and pump not making same sound as usual !???

I tried to get pressure 3x nothing. Disconnected IN line and can see down pipe no oil comming up. Of course I'm cheesed off as things were going so well. My thoughts turned to banjo bolt check ball valve. Took out banjo bolt with full oil pan lost about a pint of oil.

The spring behind ball was same pressure as before, but to be honest quite strong. My guess was when oil is hot it's thinner so pump not pulling lighter oil up because spring in banjo bolt too strong.

So opened up bolt, it's roll folded at end not easy but got valve, ball and spring out. I cut about 1/4 inch off spring and re assembled. The ball was easier to push in now and put all back in truck ( lost another pint of oil)

Back in truck ignition on, pump on THE NEEDLE JUMPED UP! The sun was shining, birds were singing and oh what a wonderful world. That fixed the problem and no recurrence hot or cold oil.

Other things fixed this week were, installed new cruise control switch and pressure sensor associated with it, that's working again, also new side mirror switch, that's ok too.

If I'm understanding you correctly, you're drawing unfiltered oil from the oil pan drain plug via the banjo bolt and running a line to the input side of the pump. Where do you run the line from the pump's output side to? I assume a "T" fitting on the oil pressure switch port.
 






out pump line

Hi Koda2000, out line DOES NOT go to pressure switch T it goes to filter sandwich block. I have made sandwich block from engineering plastic. You can buy them ready made usually made of aluminium, but because I wasn't sure of what I'd get I made my own. The oil comes from pump to this with another banjo fitting . It's very tidy as it is flat against sandwich block. Banjo bolt + fitting is like a 90 degree elbow, only in to pieces and compact.

On the on the bottom of sandwich block is the filter, I had to make a long threaded tube in place of original filter to engine fitting. This is screwed into engine then sandwich block with nut then filter. Thread is 22 mm 1.5 pitch

All oil from oil pan goes through filter before going into engine. I will be disassembling everything and will take pictures of the set up, my problem will be how to post them on this site!

My setup works exactly the same way as the engine oil pump does, ie takes oil from oil pan to filter then around engine.
 






Hi Koda2000, out line DOES NOT go to pressure switch T it goes to filter sandwich block. I have made sandwich block from engineering plastic. You can buy them ready made usually made of aluminium, but because I wasn't sure of what I'd get I made my own. The oil comes from pump to this with another banjo fitting . It's very tidy as it is flat against sandwich block. Banjo bolt + fitting is like a 90 degree elbow, only in to pieces and compact.

On the on the bottom of sandwich block is the filter, I had to make a long threaded tube in place of original filter to engine fitting. This is screwed into engine then sandwich block with nut then filter. Thread is 22 mm 1.5 pitch

All oil from oil pan goes through filter before going into engine. I will be disassembling everything and will take pictures of the set up, my problem will be how to post them on this site!

My setup works exactly the same way as the engine oil pump does, ie takes oil from oil pan to filter then around engine.

I'd really like to see your pictures. If your not an "Elite Explorer" to post pics you'll need to put them into something like PhotoBucket and then you can copy and paste the images into your post. If you use PhotoBucket I can explain how to do it.
 






correct installation

Most commercially available sandwich blocks are made for external oil coolers. The two available ports are downstream of the oil filter. Connecting a pre-oiler to that kind of sandwich block introduces unfiltered oil into the engine lubrication system. I used a remote oil filter adapter that allows the pre-oiler output to pass thru the filter before going to the engine. Connecting the pre-oiler output to the oil pressure switch port does not ensure pre-oiling of the entire lubrication system since it is pretty far downstream from the filter. The oil will flow upstream to equalize pressure in the system but there could be air pockets in the upstream path.

I plan to install two remote filters (full flow & bypass) and introduce the output of the electric motor pre-oiler upstream of the remote filters just like I did with the Accusump.
 






correct installation 2

I agree with you that pressure sensor is not good for pre oiling, but I've seen that set up for sale !!!

I've got a Hayden remote filter kit to mount yet, and this I have had to modify to make it fit. They said on Amazon fitment chart it was good for 2001 ST, BUT IT'S NOT. All thread adapters are sae size and ST is metric. Fair play to Amazon they refunded full amount and said keep the kit when I pointed this out.

Once I do fitting of remote mount all oil from pump will enter upstream of filter.
My sandwich block will stay in place, with Hayden adapter under it. My set up will make it very easy to have outlet/inlets on adapter face the best way for hoses to go to remote mount. This is because I can change the length of thread available to remote mount adapter.

I've also got a large Derale transmission cooler, I will probably use the stock transmission cooler as engine oil cooler, what are you thoughts on that?
 






engine oil cooler

I've read about and experimented with various ATF and engine oil coolers. First I relocated the stock ATF cooler, added a second one in parallel, and a full flow ATF filter with temperature sensor. I also installed a remote bypass and full flow engine oil filter with temperature sensor and a fairly large engine oil cooler in front of the lower section of the A/C condenser.
3Filters.jpg

An A pillar mounted gauge and switch allowed me to display either engine or transmission oil temperatures.

In the winter (which is fairly mild in upstate South Carolina) the oil temperature never reached optimum. I've read that 215 degrees F is the optimum temperature for engine oil. The oil should warm up quickly for fuel efficiency and slightly above the boiling point of water to eliminate it from the oil. So then I installed a 215 degree thermostatically controlled valve that bypasses the cooler until the optimum temperature is reached.
OFLowFull.jpg


I only drive my Sport in the city but even in the summer the oil temperature is never high enough for the thermostat to open the cooler path. I concluded that for my driving conditions the engine oil cooler is not useful and I'm going to convert it to an intercooler heat exchanger for my supercharger because my post blower intake air temperatures are too high for optimum spark advance and performance.

I also replaced the second stock ATF cooler with a larger, more efficient B&M cooler, added forced air flow, and converted to an intercooler heat exchanger.
FanMount6.jpg


My 5R55E transmission has an internal temperature sensor which I can datalog over the OBD-II bus. The external ATF cooling loop opens when the ATF temperature in the torque converter exceeds 150 deg F. Even with the supercharger my ATF rarely exceeds 180 deg F. with only the stock ATF cooler and the radiator internal ATF cooler.
 



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engine/trans coolers

First off Dale, you have certainly researched this subject both from theoretical and practical dimensions. I take my hat off to you, well done.

It looks to me as if it is better to not use an engine oil cooler, as you say 215 is optimum engine oil temperasure to boil off any water. As I've already got this Derale transmission cooler, I'll try it in series with the factory fitted, as all I've read on 5r55e transmissions is "the cooler the better for longevity".Also re locating the oil filter will help a little with engine cooling. Extra cooling if needed will come from electric Derale fan I've purchased(it's actually a Spal fan but sold by Derale).

It's 7:00 am here so I'm going to take oil pump lines off and get pump end fittings presses on to hoses, I'd set it up temporarily to make sure everything worked. Having no battery in the front has really made this installation much easier.
 






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