upper bolt on passenger sway bar link broken off, safe to drive??? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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upper bolt on passenger sway bar link broken off, safe to drive???

LMHmedchem

Elite Explorer
Joined
October 28, 2011
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Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 Explorer XLT v8
Hello,

When changing my brakes, I noticed the the sway bar link on the passenger's side is broken off at the top. It looks like the top bolt broke off. I have no idea when this happened, but I would like to know if it' safe to keep driving until I get out and get a new one.

I'm not sure how I would get this off with one of the bolts broken. I guess I would use a sawsall unless that's a bad idea for some reason. Looking at Advanced Auto, it looks like replacement parts range from ~$8 to ~$20. Is there any difference in these parts other than the price.

There seem to be two kinds of kits available. Some look like this kit,
Moog Stabilizer Bar Link Kit ($16)

and some look like this kit,
Moog Sway Bar Link Kit ($21)

I'm not sure which of these I need.

LMHmedchem
 



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One day I was under mine and noticed that both of mine were snapped, and this was not long after I had it in for service. I bought 2 kits, the ones that look like your second link. I ended up using a cutting disc on a grinder to get the remnants of the old ones off. Apparently I had been driving for at least a little while, with both of mine snapped. Basically, it only makes your handling sloppier if these are broken or loose. You should also recheck it for tightness once it has been on there for a while. They can loosen up, especially if you drive on crappy roads regularly.
 






Pretty sure it's not too dangerous to drive when they're broken.

I used a hacksaw on my 2nd gen to remove a broken one. The kit I replaced them with was the same as your first link. Pretty sure the main difference is the bushing material
 






Thanks for the replies. I will grab a new one and put it in over the weekend. Since it is the top of the bolt that sheered off, I may be able to remove it by just pushing it down through the bushings. It not, it will be the sawzall and a bimetal blade.

I am wondering if I should replace the driver side as well. Is it typical to do both sides at the same time? It's only a $15 part, but I may have a harder time getting the drivers side off since it's not already broken.

LMHmedchem
 






Both good products. Trade off is the older K7275 uses 7/16" hardware, but softer thermoplastic rubber bushings that are more failure prone. Newer K700542 uses smaller 3/8" hardware but has more durable polyurethane bushings and is reported to be easier to install. I would opt for the newer design simply because I had several failures with the older blue bushings that are not available separately. Either way you choose, replace BOTH sides because the center sleeve lengths must be exactly the same, and do not over tighten or the bushings will fail over time. And yes hacksaw or Sawzall is the best method of removal. Moog's product info:

Non-Socket Style Sway Bar Kit (K700542)
http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en1/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_213006_Sway_Bar_Link_Eng.pdf

Bending Or Breaking Sway Bar Links (K7275)
http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_En/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_25471_K7275_En.pdf
 






I have not done these on my 3rd gen yet, but when I did them on my 2nd gen they broke on the top as well. However, I was not able to push them down through the lower control arm. This is why I ended up using a Hacksaw. I'm sure a sawzall will make very quick work of them.

My vote would be replacing them both. If one failed the other can't be far behind. Doing them both when you're in car work mode would be easier then fixing the other one at an inconvenient time.
 






I took mine off with a cutting wheel as well, but wear protection. I got a nice replacement from Advance Auto made by Moog. They're beefy with a improved design.
 






I took mine off with a cutting wheel as well, but wear protection. I got a nice replacement from Advance Auto made by Moog. They're beefy with a improved design.
Did you use a cuttoff wheel on a dremel or an angle grinder?

Do you know which Moog part number you got? They have quite a few at advanced auto.

LMHmedchem
 






A 6" cutoff wheel on an angle grinder will make quick work of a rusted swaybar link bolt. Just be careful. Wear some thick leather gloves with ear and eye protection.

The part # is K700542 for the Moog. Good stuff.
 






I changed these out today and it went fairly smoothly. I still have most of the skin on my knuckles. I ended up going with these,

Moog Stabilizer Bar Link Kit K700542 ($16)

because they had them in stock at my local AAP.

I used a sawzall to cut off the old bars. That went fairly well but I advise a new blade for each side if anyone else is doing it that way. Just be patient and let the saw do the work. At any rate, I couldn't find my angle grinder so I went with the saw. The non broken side was a pain because I had to cut it twice and the blade was getting dull.

The replacement kit went in easily and it looks fine.

Of course, I noticed the the boot on the right ball joint is torn, so that will probably be next.

Thanks for the help.

LMHmedchem
 






Just had to do mine on the 02, both sides were snapped off. I was kinda surprised that I didn't notice it till I did an oil change. When one snapped on my prior 97 the front end got rather lively.
 






Just had to do mine on the 02, both sides were snapped off. I was kinda surprised that I didn't notice it till I did an oil change. When one snapped on my prior 97 the front end got rather lively.
Only one of mine was broken, but I wouldn't have noticed unless I was doing my brakes. I don't notice any difference since both sides are replaced.

Question, there was nothing on the package to indicate which direction the bolt was supposed to go through. Does the bolt go down from the top or up from the bottom? I put mine in down from the top since it was easier to get the bushings on that way. I guess it may not make any difference either way given the kind of nut that they used but I'm interested to know one way or the other.

LMHmedchem
 






Replaced all four of mine recently. Mine were bad and looked like the original. It was up from the bottom with the nut on the top.
 






Replaced all four of mine recently. Mine were bad and looked like the original. It was up from the bottom with the nut on the top.
Thinking about it now, I think I did the first one from the bottom up and then the second one from the top down since that's how it was done in a vid i watched to see how much to torque down the nuts. It was also allot easier from the top down because the bolt didn't keep falling out.

Given the length of the nut, I'm not sure it makes any difference which way it went in but it does seem interesting that the nuts on the two ends are different gauge. That could imply that there is a difference.

Does anyone think it is a problem for them to have been installed in different directions?

LMHmedchem
 






To remove the broken end link you will more than likely need to cut it off (I would try a hack saw first) yes it's a pain but better do it slow than to cut something else unintentionally.

To remove the other end link use two ratchets one on each end (top and bottom) Try to position the top against the control arm so that you can let go of it and loosen the bottom bolt.

It is always a good idea to replace sway bar end links as a pair. This is due to the fact that if one is bad/broken, it won't be long until the other is broken. So while you have your front end off the ground, might as well do both sides now.

As far as safety, many people that mod their cars remove their sway bars entirely (not sure why off the top of my head but remember these are low to the ground cars!) You're driving a top heavy SUV. Yes, it is 'safe' to drive, but avoid cornering aggressively and remember the glass of water rule. (Imagine there is a glass of water on your dash, drive gently as to not spill it)

Obviously repair and replace as soon as possible as this is a vital suspension component.

Best wishes,
Brandon
 






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