New Toy

[skpyle]

You are quite welcome! Your posts are always a good read.

Good to know about the door. At some point soon, I have to deal with a worn out lower driver's side hinge bushing on my Explorer. Thanks for the details!

Today, I got to learn about the joys of replacing the DPFE hoses on the 5.0l V-8. It involved removing the DPFE transducer to fit the new hoses. Joy.

Looks like you are making your Sport Trac into YOUR Sport Trac. Will you be able to sell it? :biggthump


Seth K. Pyle

 

[koda2000]

You are quite welcome! Your posts are always a good read.

Good to know about the door. At some point soon, I have to deal with a worn out lower driver's side hinge bushing on my Explorer. Thanks for the details!

Today, I got to learn about the joys of replacing the DPFE hoses on the 5.0l V-8. It involved removing the DPFE transducer to fit the new hoses. Joy.

Looks like you are making your Sport Trac into YOUR Sport Trac. Will you be able to sell it? :biggthump


Seth K. Pyle

The nicer it gets, the harder it will be for me to sell. I'm not a big fan of the 4.0L SOHC engine or it's rather weak automatic transmission, but if I end up doing the timing chains (or make up my mind that I'll do them when they start rattling) I may decide to get rid of something else. Something will have to go now that there are 3 that are considered mine. That's just too many. I like the versatility of the ST. It's kinda of the best of both worlds. I just wish it had a V8 in it. Maybe it will someday.

Changing the hinge was easy compared to replacing that lock actuator. It must be nice if you have the newer style actuator with the removable rod. I don't know whether the newer style can me retrofitted in place of the non-removable rod style, but you'd still have to remove the door latch/lock guts to get the old rod out. You need to be an octopus to manage all that stuff. It's like you get one piece where you want if and another is in the wrong place.

 

[koda2000]

Today's Update:
No progress this past weekend as I've been busy putting together my grandson's redwood play set (it would have taken considerably less time if my son-in-law wasn't "helping") but it's close to being done now, just trim pieces left to install.

My new master window switch arrived today from PartsTrain. It looked identical to my bad OE window switch, but it fought me trying to get one of the connectors to snap into it. I finally tweaked the pins over a little bit and then the connector went in. Nervously I turned on the ignition switch and started trying the windows one-by-one. They all went UP & DN from the master switch and now they all also work from their individual switches. Yay!

Now I'm back to waiting for parts (hope your hand is feeling better Al) and some cooler weather before tackling the next items on the list.

My Short List (not so short):
- replace the right front lock actuator (done)
- replace the left rear interior door handle (done)
- replace the blend door actuator and/or TEMP switch (done)
- reinstall the remaining interior door panels (done)
- pull and check the remaining 5 spark plugs and replace the #3 plug & plug wire
- remove the rear axles, inspect/replace bearings as needed (WIP)
- replace the rear axle seals and install new rear brake shoes
- perform a trans service, brake fluid and power steering fluid flush
- remove the front seats to clean the rubber floor mat
- finish the interior cleaning/detailing
- replace the body mount bushings
- replace/repair the leather driver's seat bottom (whichever is cheapest)
- replace cracked cruise control switches (WIP)

Hopefully I'll be seeing light at the end of this tunnel soon and not a train coming the other way.

 

[albi1cnobi1]

You're getting there! The hand is feeling better, thanks for asking. Still can't make a fist but I can move all my fingers relatively pain free.(relatively is a relative term!) lol! I'll PM you the info on the parts, and that list IS getting shorter...

 

[skpyle]

Good job on the master switch! Sorry about the useless son-in-law. I know what you mean.

You are grimly prophetic about the lock actuators. The driver's side front actuator is failing on my Explorer. I will have to deal with it soon...

Thanks!

Seth K. Pyle

 

[koda2000]

Good Luck!
Following with great interest...


Seth K. Pyle

I should be replacing the RH front lock actuator soon. Maybe by the end of the week, or early next week. Near as I can tell, it will be a slightly different process than the rear door (hopefully a bit easier) but we'll see. I'll explain how I did it, so that you can learn from my experience (and my mistakes). I'm now an expert on drilling out Fords door rivets. The issue with replacing the lock actuator is that once you remove the door latch you're dealing with a lot of rods. It's like a wrangling handful of snakes. It really isn't that hard of a job, but there's quite a bit of anxiety involved.

 

[MAS Tequila]

I should be replacing the RH front lock actuator soon. Maybe by the end of the week, or early next week. Near as I can tell, it will be a slightly different process than the rear door (hopefully a bit easier) but we'll see. I'll explain how I did it, so that you can learn from my experience (and my mistakes). I'm now an expert on drilling out Fords door rivets. The issue with replacing the lock actuator is that once you remove the door latch you're dealing with a lot of rods. It's like a wrangling handful of snakes. It really isn't that hard of a job, but there's quite a bit of anxiety involved.

I just changed the one in my drivers door without drilling anything.

I pried the actuator out of the bracket and put the new one in.

It took me about 15 minutes once the door panel was off.

MT

 

[koda2000]

I just changed the one in my drivers door without drilling anything.

I pried the actuator out of the bracket and put the new one in.

It took me about 15 minutes once the door panel was off.

MT

I replaced my LR with an actuator, which did not come with the bracket attached. I found it very difficult to swap the actuator bracket over from my old actuator (of course the old actuator was already removed from the vehicle at the time). My hand is still healing from the times I stabbed myself with a screwdriver. If the replacement actuator has the bracket attached, it takes me less than a minute to drill out the rivet and I don't need to shed any blood. I prefer to go that route. I replace the rivet with a small bolt and nyloc nut.

Did you need to remove that latch to unhook the actuator rod on the front door?

 

[skpyle]

Excellent, I look forward to the write up. Thanks!

I bought the Dorman 746-145 actuators. They are supposed to be for either side. Which is why they have no mounting brackets.

I will be paying attention to your details.

Seth K. Pyle

 

[koda2000]

Excellent, I look forward to the write up. Thanks!

I bought the Dorman 746-145 actuators. They are supposed to be for either side. Which is why they have no mounting brackets.

I will be paying attention to your details.

Seth K. Pyle

I found the hardest part of swapping the bracket was trying to get it over the rubber boot on the actuator (I was installing a used actuator). The loose fitting rubber boot made it very difficult to get the bracket over the actuator's mounting bosses. I eventually cut the boot to get it out of my way.

 

[skpyle]

Hmmm...good to know.

Thanks!
(Sorry for hijacking your thread. Looking forward to more ST updates.)

Seth K. Pyle

 

[MAS Tequila]

No, once the actuator was free I just twisted it up and around.

I did have to remove the window guide.

MT

I replaced my LR with an actuator, which did not come with the bracket attached. I found it very difficult to swap the actuator bracket over from my old actuator (of course the old actuator was already removed from the vehicle at the time). My hand is still healing from the times I stabbed myself with a screwdriver. If the replacement actuator has the bracket attached, it takes me less than a minute to drill out the rivet and I don't need to shed any blood. I prefer to go that route. I replace the rivet with a small bolt and nyloc nut.

Did you need to remove that latch to unhook the actuator rod on the front door?

 

[koda2000]

No, once the actuator was free I just twisted it up and around.

I did have to remove the window guide.

MT

That would save me a bunch of time and aggravation if I can just unhook it from the latch. This was not possible with the rear actuator I did last week.

 

[albi1cnobi1]

The front one just unhooks once the bracket is free. Like MAS Tequila said, you just remove one bolt and take out the lower window channel.

 

[koda2000]

The front one just unhooks once the bracket is free. Like MAS Tequila said, you just remove one bolt and take out the lower window channel.

Cool. Best news I've had all day.

 

[koda2000]

Minor Updates:
- Replaced master window switch (all windows now working properly)
- Buttoned up driver's front door interior panel
- Removed broken front RH lock actuator
- Found/purchased a nice set of used cruise control switches on evilBay
- Expecting shipment of used parts (lock and blend door actuators and such) today?

Total spent (not including tires & windshield) on new/used parts & supplies
to-date $167

I just tried some paint stripper on the tailgate's plastic liner. It actually works quite well on getting off the spilled paint and mastic and it doesn't bother the plastic. It will be a slow process to do the entire bed, but it's doable, I'll just do a couple of square feet at a time when I'm in the mood.

Afternoon Update:
- shipment of used parts arrived (thanks Al)
- front RH lock actuator installed and working
- front RH door interior panel reinstalled (all locks and windows now working)
- blend door actuator/TEMP switch test and installation perhaps this evening (not exactly a priority right now, just curious).

Evening Update:
- plugged in the new blend door actuator and it works. I expected it to move more quickly. It actually moves so slowly, at first I though it wasn't working. Then I retested the old actuator and it does not work. So now I just have to figure out how to reinstall the actuator. I tried for about 5 mins, but couldn't get the actuator to reconnect to the blend door. Either it's not in the right position, or it's just being difficult. There's not much room to get your finger in there to press down on it. I'll fool with it another day. It came out, it will eventually go back in. I think I'll remove the piece that connects to the blend door from the broken actuator so I can use it to adjust the blend door to where I need it.

Okay, I got the blend door actuator in and the front 2 screws are installed. The rear one is proving to be more changing. I dropped one screw, which has disappeared into the bowels of the dash. It will work with just the 2 front screws, but I'll have to think of a better way to get the rear screw into its hole. Maybe forceps? I know exactly where the hole is, I just can't get my hand in there to start the screw. More creative thinking (or smaller hands) needed.

 

[sr139fox]

Use some glue, RTV, sealant, or tape the bolt to a socket. Old tricm I used in the military. Dave p.

 

[Phantom]

Magnetize the socket or screwdriver, whatever it is you are using.

 

[koda2000]

Use some glue, RTV, sealant, or tape the bolt to a socket. Old tricm I used in the military. Dave p.

Yeah, the screw is currently taped in the socket right now. I've used that trick for many years. I also thought about putting some grease in the socket and even magnetizing it, LOL. I'll get it eventually. Another thought I had was to place a small piece of paper under the rear screw hole of the actuator and threading the screw through the paper a turn or two to hold it in place, but I'd have to remove the actuator again to accomplish that. That rear hole is a bugger to get at. I just hope I don't drop another screw. It's the last one I have the fits the socket I ground down. The guy I got the actuator from included 3 screws, but the heads are a smaller size. If I do remove the actuator again I can probably retrieve the screw I dropped. It's one of those things that you have to walk away from for a while and fiddle with later. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[koda2000]

RE the replacement of the front RH lock actuator. The used one I was sent was the newer style with the removable rod. I'd wondered if that style could be retro fitted and it can. I've seen these for sale on eBay. They come with a variety of rods so you can put them in various locations and vehicles. Good to know. The removable rod would let you change the actuator more easily and without having to remove the rear latch should replacement be needed in the future.

BTW, I scored a nice set of used cruise control switches off eBay for $45 w/free shipping. A little more than I wanted to pay, but they were the nicest and least expensive ones for sale at the moment. I wonder if the light bulbs will work? I know they can be changed, but the replacement bulbs wont be the nice green color. If a bulb is out, I hope they're both out. It would drive me crazy if only one worked. It's tough to be a perfectionist, LOL.

Update:
I got the rear actuator screw in this morning using the tape method. Took me all of about a minute. Like I said, sometimes you just have to walk away a try it again later. Two things age teaches you are patience and persistence.

I've just about convinced myself to pull the engine out of this thing and replace the timing chain components. That's the only way I'd consider keeping this truck for myself. It's a lot of work, but it's the only way I'll trust it. Still thinking about it. If I do it I'll wait for cooler weather. That will just leave the trans as the only untouched drive-line component. I was thinking I'll add a drain plug to the trans pan while I have it off. I don't recall seeing a TC drain plug on the bell housing. With a drain plug in the pan I can easily drain and replace the trans fluid again after a few hundred miles and end up with mostly clean fluid.