2004 Explorer: major repairs or trade it in

[MikeDubya74]

Hey all - we have a 2004 Ford Explorer with about 97,000 miles (~40,000 on rebuilt transmission). As we were approaching the 100k mark, we took it into the dealership to have it looked at. Man...did my stomach drop when they called about the repairs:

$1,950 to rebuild/overhaul the rear end assembly – dealer says it’s shot and shouldn’t be driven until repaired
$1,219 to flush and replace seals for Radiator & thermostat housing leaks
$256 to repair front pinion seal
$160 to replace front differential fluid to prevent what’s happened to the rear differential
$155 to replace the battery that has a dead cell and is currently preventing the car from starting

I almost keeled over. With almost 4k in pending repairs, is it worth trying to repair it or trade it in. I'm pretty handy, but other than replacing the battery, I haven't attempted any of the above (brakes, rotors, even water pumps I'll give a try, yes...).

Any insight or ideas would be great. If the rear end assembly goes completely, what happens - do the wheels seize or will the truck spin as a result of power only going to one wheel or will it just roll to a stop?

Thanks all! Appreciate any advice you can provide.

 

[lincolnshibuya]

your truck is too new to have those repairs. don't believe what the dealer say, go to an independent shop and have them show/verify the repairs needed. the rear end noise is a common issue, I say drive it until it falls down on the freeway
most of the repairs in the explorer can be DIY and parts are not that really expensive.

 

[rwt101]

Replace the battery to get it running and top off the fluids and go from there.
If there is really that much wrong with it you won't get much on a trade in.
Bob T

 

[Boonie2]

NEVER !!! Trust a dealers estimate , its they're JOB to make $$$ from you , those are just crazy numbers , go to an independant machanic , while theyre in business to make $$$ too i put more trust in them than i do in dealerships

 

[drdoom]

I agree with Boonie, those prices are ridiculous!!!

 

[Sitcoms]

$155 to replace a f'ing battery? HA!
Take it to an experienced contact that you know or an independent shop.

 

[rwt101]

They will probably hit you with a charge for checking it out.
Bob T

 

[MikeDubya74]

Thanks all...we're getting some second opinions. I think it'll still cost a couple of grand to get it back on track, but better than 4k.

 

[Tyleryac]

I would fix it. Take it to and Indy and save money.

 

[leadfootdriver]

The previous owner never changed the rear diff fluid on mine. I did it at 96k and its whined ever since; even with the 8oz overfill. I don't think it will get worse with the new fluid. It's not really noticeable with the radio on. Im going to let it ride.I don't do any towing.

Perhaps a thicker fluid would do the trick. The original fluid came out pretty thick.

 

[Donystoy]

I am wondering what your original issues were for taking it to the dealer in the first place was. If it was for the rear end noise yours is one of many that are noisy including mine. When my noise suddenly gets worse I will address it.

 

[LMHmedchem]

You should be able to get a good battery for $90-$100. Depending on where you live, you need 550-850 CCA (cold crank amps). If you have the v8 and live where it's cold in the winter, go for a bit more amps. You can start by looking at the battery that is in the truck now as a reference.

Batteries for this truck will run $110-$150 at most stores but remember that these sites always have coupons available. For example,

AutoCraft Silver Battery, Group Size 65, 750 CCA ($137)

this coupon give you $1 off,

https://www.couponcabin.com/coupons/advance-auto-parts/#offer=1886257

so the final price is $96

You may be able to do better, especially if you determine that you only need 650 CCA. Your stock battery may only be 550 CCA anyway.

You need to find the auto parts stores near you and check their websites for what is available. If you post the sites you are looking at then users here can help.

Changing out your battery is a great place to start with your own repairs. You will save some money right away and be able to drive your truck to some reputable shops for a reasonable estimate. Your truck has very few miles on it for an 11 year old vehicle and unless it has been 11 years since the oil was changed or you've been driving in in the demolition derby, it should not have significant problems.

LMHmedchem

 

[blue_goose]

The previous owner never changed the rear diff fluid on mine. I did it at 96k and its whined ever since; even with the 8oz overfill. I don't think it will get worse with the new fluid. It's not really noticeable with the radio on. Im going to let it ride.I don't do any towing.

Perhaps a thicker fluid would do the trick. The original fluid came out pretty thick.

I wouldn't repair it either. I changed mine for the first time at 87k as it hummed loudly when I bought it from the first owner. Has hummed ever since, sometimes quietly, sometimes rather loudly, so I just change the fluid every year (about 20k). this includes off roading, towing and constant hauling over gvwr. I have 195k on it now and oddly the rear doesn't make much noise anymore.

I attempted the rebuild myself around 110k and it was terrible. I got stuck and went into my small town dealer they said they did one and would never do it again, way too much work and money. He said just keep changing the fluid and keep driving, it will go forever. Being mechanical it will fail at some point but my money is on my family outgrowing the truck before it fails. I should also mention the fluid comes out looking like dark green milk and the diff is soaked in fluid from the bad seal I never replaced.

As for the rest, my lousy advice would be:

Radiator and thermostat isn't that hard, time consuming and annoying but not bad (although its been a while so somebody better should chime in here). Either way, if its a slow leak and its just dripping on the ground you can just keep putting antifreeze in until you feel like taking on a project.

No idea about the front pinion seal

front diff should be done, but you can do that yourself easily. Not much harder than changing oil, just messy, time consuming and tight working quarters. I changed mine once total at 145k (I don't recommend this)

As others said, you can get a battery for a lot cheaper.

I would also recommend flushing the transfer case. It often gets over looked and takes no more time or effort than a oil change, probably less. I did mine at 150k and the tranny fluid that was once red was black and nasty.

What have other shops recommended? Good luck and keep us updated!