New Toy

[koda2000]

I found a great price on Mercon V, Castrol Mercon V at Advance for $4 a quart. Most store get $6.19 a quart. I don't know if this is a sale price, but I'll pick some up tomorrow.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...n+v&vehicleIdSearch=48940&searchedFrom=header

I had to buy it on-line to get the $4 price, but it will be shipped to my local store, which seems dumb as my local store has plenty of it in stock, but whatever.

 

[Phantom]

What is the consensus on band adjustment while the pan is down?

 

[swshawaii]

What is the consensus on band adjustment while the pan is down?

http://mysporttrac.com/shared/msgboard9e.asp?BOARDNAME=MSG&VIEW=1349001

 

[Phantom]

So lots of arguing and apparently "no".

 

[swshawaii]

For technical knowledge, I'm inclined to believe Todd Z and l1tech more than anyone on else on that forum.

l1tech 3/28/2015 10:59 ET

Ford lists a procedure for adjusting the bands ONLY on trans assembly, It is not a maintenance adjustment. Even in their troubleshooting procedures they NEVER list adjusting the bands.

If you feel the need to really adjust the bands while you have no symptoms then go for it. Fords position on this is that the bands never need to be adjusted and I agree with them. More often than not if the bands are slipping there is a fluid or a fluid pressure issue.

 

[429CJ-3X2]

I found a great price on Mercon V, Castrol Mercon V at Advance for $4 a quart. Most store get $6.19 a quart. I don't know if this is a sale price, but I'll pick some up tomorrow.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...n+v&vehicleIdSearch=48940&searchedFrom=header

I had to buy it on-line to get the $4 price, but it will be shipped to my local store, which seems dumb as my local store has plenty of it in stock, but whatever.

Maybe it's different this time, but usually you can order online and pick up at the store 1/2 hr later (to give them time to pull the order out of their stock.) Shouldn't have to go the "ship to store" route if they have it even if it's an online special only.

 

[koda2000]

Maybe it's different this time, but usually you can order online and pick up at the store 1/2 hr later (to give them time to pull the order out of their stock.) Shouldn't have to go the "ship to store" route if they have it even if it's an online special only.

Yeah, I suspect that's how it works. I didn't select "ship to store" and there was no shipping charge. I'm going to the store today to pick it up. I had called the store last night to see if it was a sale and was told that their sale on Castrol ATF had ended last week and that if it was still $4 on-line to go ahead and order it, which is what I did.

 

[429CJ-3X2]

After you posted the $4 for Mercon V, I went to the local store to get some. It wasn't marked on sale on the shelf so I didn't buy any, but it was in the ad I grabbed on the way out. Didn't check the dates or online.

 

[koda2000]

For technical knowledge, I'm inclined to believe Todd Z and l1tech more than anyone on else on that forum.

My philosophy is, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

 

[koda2000]

Picked up my six $4 qts of Castrol Mercon V from Advance this morning. Now just waiting on the Wix filter and B&M drain plug to arrive. The list is getting pretty short.

 

[koda2000]

Update:
I decided today was the day to tackle the #3 spark plug and wire (the only one PO hadn't changed, but they came with the truck). I found removing the right front tire and inner fender made plug access quite easy. I highly recommend it to access the #3 plug. I removed the spark plug and found it was probably original to the truck at 184k. The gap was at around .070-.072. I gaped the supplied Autolite double platinum plug and reinstalled it with anti-seize, then I installed the supplied new plug wire with dielectric grease on the boot.

Next, I removed the almost new #1 and #2 plugs to check their gap and I'm really glad I did. They were both in only about finger tight! WTF... so I torqued them down to spec too. I also unequivocally proved that my oil leak is coming from the passenger side valve cover gasket. The 2 remaining driver's side plugs I have to check should be much easier to do than the passenger side, so I think the tire and inner fender can remain in place.

I just took the truck to get the mail and it runs a little smoother after replacing the #3 plug and wire.

Question:
Looking at all the stuff on top of the valve covers, it looks like replacing the gaskets will be a PITA. Has anyone done this on a Job 2 engine and do you have any tips?

 

[sr139fox]

Done both. Drivers plug were not too bad. #6 was a reach with the inner fender on. Remove the inner vinyl cover to make it easier. Drivers valve cover was more difficult. There are some good post for clues. Dave p.

 

[koda2000]

Done both. Drivers plug were not too bad. #6 was a reach with the inner fender on. Remove the inner vinyl cover to make it easier. Drivers valve cover was more difficult. There are some good post for clues. Dave p.

I might be able to get the remaining 2 driver's side plugs from the top. I easily got #4 from the top. I'll see. Even if I need to pull the driver's inner fender, it's easy enough to do.

It looks like it may only be the passenger side valve cover gasket that's leaking (and boy, is it leaking) so maybe I only need to worry about that one right now. I'll search for some posts on the subject - Thanks.

 

[just1me]

I've done both valve cover gaskets and for me the passenger side was harder than the driver's side. That lower back bolt on the passenger side needed a 1/4" swivel and extensions, and I had to disconnect the rear most fuel injector, to be able to lift the valve cover up out of place. The driver's side the only real pain was the fuel line but you can loosen the bracket, and pull the fuel line enough out of the way to remove the valve cover.

 

[koda2000]

Update:
I pulled, gapped, anti-seized and dielectric greased the boots on the remaining 2 driver's side spark plugs today. Both were pretty loose, especially #6 . Super easy going through the inner fender, I just removed the tire first.

I don't know if I'm missing part of the inner fender engine splash shields, whether they're in 2 pieces on the ST or if it's just the way they are, but all I have is a short section on the rear 1/3 of the area. The pieces do not appear to be ripped or cut. They're in good condition, there are holes in the inner fender for retainers for the top and front, but no sign that there ever were any...? All my other trucks have the typical large one-piece splash shields.

Below is what the RA catalog shows for the '01/'02 ST, but it also says "don't rely on the photo":

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1412387&cc=1385355&jnid=518&jpid=0

 

[swshawaii]

Here you go koda.

http://www.mysporttrac.com/shared/projects.asp?VIEW=174&WRENCHES=1&PageHeader=

http://www.mysporttrac.com/shared/msgboard9e.asp?BOARDNAME=MSG&VIEW=1260123

 

[429CJ-3X2]

That looks about right

 

[429CJ-3X2]

Here you go koda.

http://www.mysporttrac.com/shared/projects.asp?VIEW=174&WRENCHES=1&PageHeader=

http://www.mysporttrac.com/shared/msgboard9e.asp?BOARDNAME=MSG&VIEW=1260123

We were posting at the same time. After reading the link, I checked mine. The '01 has the full shields and the '02 has the short ones. Until I read the link, I couldn't remember if the '02 had short ones or none. I'm like koda, thinking there was something wrong with the '02, but they aren't torn or cut.

 

[koda2000]

Here you go koda.

http://www.mysporttrac.com/shared/projects.asp?VIEW=174&WRENCHES=1&PageHeader=

http://www.mysporttrac.com/shared/msgboard9e.asp?BOARDNAME=MSG&VIEW=1260123

Interesting. I guess that explains it. I'll think about whether I want to replace mine with the full coverage versions. If I still lived in the snow/rust belt I definitely would.

BTW, Mines a very late production '01 (8/01).

 

[Kjhadfield]

My 02 has the same small flap in the rear area. I considered getting the full skirt but couldn't justify it. Keep engine cleaner or keep engine cooler is how I looked at it.

I actually took mine off to do the shocks and still haven't put them back on. When I had to get my alignment for the tires- I was pressured into thinking they needed to remove the factory washer for the cam bolts and in doing so they didn't bother to remove it and tore it at 1 of the holes. Kind of mad about it still but I was thinking of cutting to shape a rubber piece of something as a replacement.

Rock auto product picture just saved me from buying/installing a moog rear end link but getting a different brand all together (but in a moog box). Instead of wrench flats on the ball/stud side it was circle like originals w/ mismatch hardware. Although it does worry me that I buy 1 thing and have to check or hope it's not something else. And what if I can't tell or know better, like knowing if your really getting a k/ck part versus a rk part. I also got the uca's and tie rod ends in the same box with the 1 uca with the boot not pre installed and the stud crushed underneath everything