Just bought this...http://www.amazon.com/Sanmak-Lighting-Light-FLOOD-SM-6722/dp/B008CIXCJI/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&m=AZWMVLJERRRXC&qid=1346394059&s=generic&sr=1-15 and i was wondering if there was a different way to install an LED light bar? I dont have any wiring or anything.Just a harness and the light itself. help please???
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Led light bar install?
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Just bought this...http://www.amazon.com/Sanmak-Lighting-Light-FLOOD-SM-6722/dp/B008CIXCJI/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&m=AZWMVLJERRRXC&qid=1346394059&s=generic&sr=1-15 and i was wondering if there was a different way to install an LED light bar? I dont have any wiring or anything.Just a harness and the light itself. help please???Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
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frankcal
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I dont know if I can be much help but I installed my own offroad lights and I think its the same principle. You basically just have to get a wiring harness and make sure that you also get a relay so that way you dont mess up anything on your car if anything were to blow. You also have to get a switch to turn on the lights unless you want to connect them to your hibeams. Once you have all the wiring you just mount the light were you want it and you can ground the light to the mounting bolts or some other bare metal. And connect the relay and fuse close to the battery and then just run the cable through your firewall into your dash or whever you want to mount the switch. I personally installed with a rugged ridge wiring harness that comes with a switch and the relay and install was really easy for me because I just had to run a pretty thin ground wire through a hole in the firewall.
Ronin8002
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Here's a diagram:
Just treat the LED bar as 1 light instead of 2 like in the diagram.
Your light bar only draws 7 amps so you'll be fine with 16 guage wire and 10 amp fuses. The relay and switch should be rated anywhere from 10-20 amps. I would look for 20 amp ones.
Just treat the LED bar as 1 light instead of 2 like in the diagram.
Your light bar only draws 7 amps so you'll be fine with 16 guage wire and 10 amp fuses. The relay and switch should be rated anywhere from 10-20 amps. I would look for 20 amp ones.
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Well the lights came with all the wiring, fuses, switch and the relay as well as hardware. Outside tools I used were a Philips screwdriver, wratchet, and drill. The wratchet was for mounting the lights on my brush . I used the drill to drill out holes to mount the relay and the ground wire on the side of the engine bay. I didn't want to connect my lights to my hi beams so all the "hot" wires directly to my battery. The wires for the switches went through a hole in the firewall and then I mounted the switches on the side of the console.
I'm no longer home with the directions so no schematics but the one Ronin posted is pretty much the same.
I'm no longer home with the directions so no schematics but the one Ronin posted is pretty much the same.
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Where I mounted the relay and ground wires. This setup has wires for my KCs and my LED's but at least it shows the idea.
In this one you can see where I pulled the wires into the cab at. It's the shift cable hole. The grommet was ripping a little from when I did my BL (my own stupidity) so I decided to take advantage of it and sent the wires through that hole. The red wire on the left is for my rear aux lights and is part of a different setup.
And for the switches, I popped the top silver part of the console of so I could drill holes for the switches. Placement is all up to you but there was no more room behind the plastic to fit a 3rd switch in my row so the 3rd one went down low close to my seat.
In this one you can see where I pulled the wires into the cab at. It's the shift cable hole. The grommet was ripping a little from when I did my BL (my own stupidity) so I decided to take advantage of it and sent the wires through that hole. The red wire on the left is for my rear aux lights and is part of a different setup.
And for the switches, I popped the top silver part of the console of so I could drill holes for the switches. Placement is all up to you but there was no more room behind the plastic to fit a 3rd switch in my row so the 3rd one went down low close to my seat.
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Hope that helps you out a little.
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The light didn't come with a relay and switch? I suggest getting a light up rocker switch so you have no doubt when the light is on or if you accidentally flip it on in the middle of the day, you'll know. Check out this link http://www.kchilites.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/6315-web.pdf. Its helpful as far as installation. I dont really know anything about relays though.
Varsity
Don't need no stinkin 4WD...yet
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Just be careful with what switch you get. I have a cheap one I used for my foglights and it lights up whenever it is on, and it just stopped working... So just realize you get what you pay for.
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the led is on all the time if you switch the 2 outer wires
Ronin8002
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Brand doesn't matter too much as long as they are rated for 12v and say 15-20 amps. Easy to find in the electrical section of the auto parts store. Same thing with the fuse holders and 16 gauge wire
funhousejoe
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ok work continues on my new roofrack just mounted my lightbar next is side lights and a backup light
Andy55778
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I use lights by NIlith as Fog Lights every morning on my three-mile dirt road.
For my truck I had to put them on top and towards the center of my bumper.
They are brighter than my low beams. I have not had strong fog to test them in yet, but I was able to see the road through the heavy spray of a semi I passed.
Needless to say, these led fog lights are much better than stock lights and you will be happy to have a look at them.
For my truck I had to put them on top and towards the center of my bumper.
They are brighter than my low beams. I have not had strong fog to test them in yet, but I was able to see the road through the heavy spray of a semi I passed.
Needless to say, these led fog lights are much better than stock lights and you will be happy to have a look at them.
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