How to: How to: Replace Sway Bar bushings (frame only)

[Explorer41]

To the OP and others, I just purchased a 2004 Explorer and joined this web site as a resource to help me work on my vehicle. I read and enjoyed your Sticky on changing the Sway Bar Bushings and I would like to add a few things to this discussion.

1) There was talk about the size of the Bushings. 31mm equals 1 1/4". To measure the outside diameter of the Sway Bar or anything else a Vernier Caliper can be purchased from just about anywhere (Ace Hardware, Home Depot, Lowe's, Sears, Harbor Freight Tools, etc) for not a lot of money and will be very helpful on many projects.

2) The OP mentioned that he used a lot of grease to coat the Bushings to eliminate squeaks and this is good. Something I find works just as well is to lubricate the Bushings (and everything else rubber on the front and rear suspension) with Silicon Spray. I do this when I rotate my tires which is every 5,000 miles and it works well for me,

Thanks everyone.

 

[TheRev813]

So, just like my wife says. It seems everytime I touch any of our cars something (usually a bolt) breaks or strips. This was no different.

On my 2004 Mountaineer (136k) I wanted to replace the swaybar endlinks and bushings. Sounds easy enough. Done it on other cars, nothing to worry about right?

I got the endlink off the passengers side easily, as I had soaked all bolts in PB blaster daily for a week to make this as easy as possible.

The passengers side bushing bracket bolts were a little cramped, but I got the forward one out easily, tried loosening the one closer to the back enough to slide out the bushing (since endlinks were removed) and had no luck, so I just started loosening with my breaker bar, and it broke.

I now have the back bolt stuck in the frame, the head of the bolt and 1/2" of thread came out on the end of my socket.

Ideas? Never used an easyout, don't have welding equipment, have basic hand tools.

I was thinking of completing the job, leaving that 1 bolt not connected and having the bracket welded to the frame by a local shop.

I'm going to move onto the drivers side. Feedback appreciated

 

[fusseli]

I did the front endlinks today and holy moly was that a pain. One of the original end links had rusted so much that they were literally bonded to the plastic sleeve and couldn't be pounded out so I had to cut it off. Look how thin the link had corroded away to in places...

 

[thomasdrelich]

Anyone know how to repair the rear sway bar bushing bolts that stick up out of the frame for the sway bar bushing? Mine snapped taking the bolt of due to rust.

 

[04Explorerlover]

Awesome write up, helped me so much today in diagnosing the noise and changing the bushings. Did it in less that 1/2 and hour. I went with the marine grade grease because living in Mass you get all kinda of weather.

 

[BigFellor]

This may seem like a silly question but I didn't see anything mentioned about it. The Haynes book says to jack up the vehicle, remove the wheels, and remove the entire sway bar. It looks like that is unnecessary. Is that the case? Can I do these while the vehicle is on the ground?

 

[swshawaii]

Tires straight and on the ground, or on ramps when installing front sway bar end end links.
OE replacement @ 18-21 ft/lbs. Aftermarket bayonet style, about 10-12 ft/lbs. (Moog, etc.)

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_En/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_25471_K7275_En.pdf

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en1/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_213006_Sway_Bar_Link_Eng.pdf

 

[BigFellor]

Tires straight and on the ground, or on ramps when installing front sway bar end end links.
OE replacement @ 18-21 ft/lbs. Aftermarket bayonet style, about 10-12 ft/lbs. (Moog, etc.)

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_En/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_25471_K7275_En.pdf

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en1/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_213006_Sway_Bar_Link_Eng.pdf

Thanks. What about for just the bushings?

 

[swshawaii]

Thanks. What about for just the bushings?

Easier yet, just unbolt the brackets. Go easy when loosening, the frame bracket bolts are
known to seize and break in the captive nuts. Anti seize the threads and torque 52 ft/lbs.

 

[WJGreer]

Excellent post. Thank you.

 

[BigFellor]

Not bad, took about an hour once I figured out what position to be in to best reach things.

But flat and level on the ground? Right. If you have a 12 year old working on it, maybe. So I ended up jacking one side up to be able to get under there. How bad did I screw things up?

 

[swshawaii]

Not bad, took about an hour once I figured out what position to be in to best reach things.

But flat and level on the ground? Right. If you have a 12 year old working on it, maybe. So I ended up jacking one side up to be able to get under there. How bad did I screw things up?

Should be fine, long as both sides are torqued the same and not over tightened. Just compare the visible bolt threads.

 

[360cid]

Anyone know how to repair the rear sway bar bushing bolts that stick up out of the frame for the sway bar bushing? Mine snapped taking the bolt of due to rust.

I had to use a oxy/acetylene torch to blow the ones that broke off on my Ex! Fished a couple of bolts through an access hole on the side of the frame and it was back together in a couple of minutes.

 

[superhick440ci]

Great write up, just on a side note though my 05 is rusty and i snapped 3 out of 4 bolts that hold the bushing retainer to the frame. No way to drill it out. Had to use an oxy acyetlyne torch to blow the bolts out of the frame and drill out the holes crudely at that point. I was able to use nuts inside the frame and bolts.

 

[Tuflehundon]

This may seem like a silly question but I didn't see anything mentioned about it. The Haynes book says to jack up the vehicle, remove the wheels, and remove the entire sway bar. It looks like that is unnecessary. Is that the case? Can I do these while the vehicle is on the ground?

If you can get under the truck to do it you can change them with the truck on the ground. I could not fit under mine. You don't need to take the sway bar off if you don't want too. I did the rear one side at a time and left it on. It is easier to get the bushing in place if you take it off. I took the sway bar off to do the front.

 

[WJGreer]

Very old thread - but for anyone searching it, I'll vouch that after replacing these sway bar bushings, the annoying squeak in my front end completely disappeared.

 

[madflower]

I just did mine. I squirted them with PB the day before. They were had to turn with a long breaker on them. I couldn't get the impact wrench in (probably good because they may have snapped. but the 4" HF stubby one is too big.) but I ended up backing them out a tiny bit, oiling the threads, and tightening them to work the oil in (and oiled in the "access hole as well after tightening). I had to do it several times to get them out. If they make a weird click/squeak every turn or so, you have to do the other bolt.