Tripped PATS 2000 Explorer

[Pugetwind]

Rather desperate here: My Explorer's used on a remote island (had to be barged here). Two days ago it's PATS system somehow got tripped while the vehicle was running when my wife attempted lifting the tailgate at the same moment I was pressing the drivers side door unlock button. Got the rapidly flashing "theft" light and the Explorer stopped dead.

I've tried many suggested "resets" without success. Did the rapid eight times in 10 second ignition off-run switch thing, the negative cable to positive terminal capacitor discharge thing, the series of 15-minute switch on and off, blinking theft light thing - pretty much every quick fix suggestion offered in this forum - to no avail.

Big problem possibly is that we have but a single coded key with this Explorer. Having the Explorer barged and towed to a Ford dealership would likely cost as much as the vehicle is worth. Makes for a really frustrating circumstance when Ford's anti-theft system results in a worse situation than merely having the Explorer stolen.

Is there ANY other recourse left for us to get the tripped PATS system to reset itself using our single coded key and our VIN number? Can we take these into a dealership and accomplish any solution to returning our much needed Explorer to running condition? Again, we're on a remote, boat access only coastal Island here and this is an exasperating circumstance.

 

[funfool]

I still dont understand the pats system, all the info is here in this forum, but is hard to sift through all the good and the bad.

I do remember something about disconnecting the battery and let it sit for over 24 hours to discharge and reset ... I dunno if it is true, but you could try.
I read it while looking up something about my system.

 

[98exploreron22]

Hold key in your hand -- lock all the doors with the drivers side door lock ,, wait 10min useing the -pats- key you have unlock drivers door with the key,, not the remote ,, put key in the ignition tun to on then turn of 3times then crank it up,,,

 

[Pugetwind]

Thanks, but I've already tried the 24-hour battery disconnect. No luck with that. Unfortunately, pretty much all the PATS reset tricks I've found within this forum have not worked for me. Numerous references have been made regarding a factory reset button or toggle beneath the driver side dash, but not surprisingly no such device can be found (thieves would've caught onto that immediately). Just hoping here for a reset option besides a $$$ barge/tow to a Ford dealership that has actually been reported to have worked for a credible number of Explorer owners. Would most certainly not have brought such a vehicle to our hard to access Island here had I known about the real risk this Ford PATS system presents to me or to anyone circumstanced within a remote or threatening location. Better thought should have underlaid this anti-theft system's design. Anyway, still hoping some miracle reset trick becomes presented here that I've not already tried..., and actually works!

 

[Pugetwind]

Tried the suggested door lock/unlock suggestion above (twice), but no pleasant surprise when trying to crank it to a start - just that fast flashing theft light. Sigh....

 

[funfool]

Thanks, but I've already tried the 24-hour battery disconnect.

just saying, I heard it was over 48 hours for the chip in play to lose its memory.
But is no idea if that would help you and your problem.
And no clue if what I read was accurate, but I did read it on the internet so should be true.

 

[2000StreetRod]

three keys

I have three keys. That way if one key is lost I can program another key myself with my PATS recognized remaining two keys. That's even more important when living in remote locations.

My 2000 Sport PCM disables the fuel injectors when the THEFT light flashes rapidly. I have confirmed this by starting the vehicle with starting fluid aerosol. Other years can disable the starter or the fuel pump but that provides less security because it can be defeated. There is a calibration constant in the PCM strategy that enables or disables PATS. Most dealers will not disable the PATS because of liability issues. SCT sells a flash tuner ($350) and an authorized SCT dealer could email you a tune that disables PATS but it may not work since the "immobilizer" has already been activated on your vehicle.

There is a machine that PATS qualified locksmiths have that communicates with the PCM to make another PATS key. It takes about 20 minutes before the PCM will allow the machine to force it to recognize another key. That prevents the machine from being used to steal vehicles. Finding a qualified PATS locksmith is probably your best course of action. When you do, I suggest to get a total of three functional keys (not duplicates which can be obtained at hardware stores).

 

[Macgiobuin]

Here is one way to get it all to work: assuming there is something wrong with either your PATS module or your transponder key: Find a cooperative junkyard or a seller who is parting out a dead explorer who will sell you these items from a model that has the same year, engine, and transmission as your car:
1. PATS module;
2: PCM;
3: ignition lock cylinder;
4: the transponder key(s) that goes with the system. Swap the PCM, the PATS module, the ignition lock cylinder and of course use the new key. For extra convenience you may want them to include
5: the door lock cylinders, and you swap them out too.
You do not need to swap out the remote; your old remote will continue to work just fine.

 

[Pugetwind]

Appreciate the last two replies, and I'm fully aware that had I two or three keys I might (or might not) be able to resolve my problem - and if I could access a locksmith with knowledge and equipment to deal with my PATS problem that would definitely be swell and dandy. However, what I suspect hinders these approaches is, as I've stated, that I'm on a remote, isolated, unserviced, no ferry access little island on the British Columbia coast. Two and a half miles of dirt road, no junkyards, no stores, no locksmiths unless they can be flown in by floatplane. It's appearing that my Explorer, which is otherwise in unusually good condition aside from this absurd problem caused by its absurd PATS immobilization feature (we've no car thieves here and never shall) is now effectively worth less than nothing to us. In the interests of not polluting our wee Island here we will have the thing barged and towed to the first junkyard that will accept it and never, never bring another Explorer or Ford product into our lives. Thanks to all and please forgive me for revealing the degree of my frustration with this circumstance. Could have been worse, I suppose. This immobilization could have occurred in a location in which resolving it in the spot could have meant life or death to us rather than just an inordinate amount of expense. We'll just have to chalk it up to the cost of a Ford learning experience.

 

[1998Exp]

I certainly sympathize and fully understand your frustration. As you stated, yours is an unusual location where car theft does not exist. Although PATS is not foolproof, it has certainly done more good than harm for the rest of us. Just recently my daughter had her '99 model Honda stolen from in front of her house. Luckily, it was retrieved intact, but in her area many of these older cars go straight to chop shops. 99 was the last year that particular Honda model did not have PATS, which allowed these rascals to start and drive it away with nothing more than a screwdriver forced into the ignition switch. Having PATS would have sent them elsewhere, for sure.
Incidentally, unless the replacement vehicle you purchase is more than 15 years old, it will almost certainly be PATS - equipped as well, so please be prepared with extra keys, or have PATS defeated by the proper 'tune'. Best of luck!

Appreciate the last two replies, and I'm fully aware that had I two or three keys I might (or might not) be able to resolve my problem - and if I could access a locksmith with knowledge and equipment to deal with my PATS problem that would definitely be swell and dandy. However, what I suspect hinders these approaches is, as I've stated, that I'm on a remote, isolated, unserviced, no ferry access little island on the British Columbia coast. Two and a half miles of dirt road, no junkyards, no stores, no locksmiths unless they can be flown in by floatplane. It's appearing that my Explorer, which is otherwise in unusually good condition aside from this absurd problem caused by its absurd PATS immobilization feature (we've no car thieves here and never shall) is now effectively worth less than nothing to us. In the interests of not polluting our wee Island here we will have the thing barged and towed to the first junkyard that will accept it and never, never bring another Explorer or Ford product into our lives. Thanks to all and please forgive me for revealing the degree of my frustration with this circumstance. Could have been worse, I suppose. This immobilization could have occurred in a location in which resolving it in the spot could have meant life or death to us rather than just an inordinate amount of expense. We'll just have to chalk it up to the cost of a Ford learning experience.

 

[crispins]

Wait wait wait!!


Why can't you just buy and install and ECU from a 1995 - 1997 Explorer?

Those do not have PATS in them and should run your Explorer just fine.

They go for around $50 - $75 on Ebay

I am currently installing a 98 explorer V8 into my 2001 Sport Trac and am using a 96 ECu to make it work.

 

[2000StreetRod]

good idea

If you have the SOHC V6 you should buy a 1997 PCM. If you have the OHV V6 then purchase a 1996 or 1997 to get EEC-V. The 1997 SOHC PCM will assume that you have IMRC (intake manifold runner control) which is not implemented on your 2000. As I recall the PCM output pin for IMRC on the 1997 is used to activate the fuel cap open warning on the instrument panel on your 2000. So that's the only thing you'll lose.

 

[crispins]

If you have the SOHC V6 you should buy a 1997 PCM. If you have the OHV V6 then purchase a 1996 or 1997 to get EEC-V. The 1997 SOHC PCM will assume that you have IMRC (intake manifold runner control) which is not implemented on your 2000. As I recall the PCM output pin for IMRC on the 1997 is used to activate the fuel cap open warning on the instrument panel on your 2000. So that's the only thing you'll lose.

That is a much better option than barging the truck out to have it scrapped.

 

[Pugetwind]

Our feelings now are the better it gets hauled off the island and sold for scrap than to remain on this island. We're not prepped for or knowledgeable about engaging in automotive electronics diagnostics and repair on an off-grid, 400 acre island. An explorer might be a fine get-around vehicle for an urban area, but it's clearly demonstrated that it's too great a liability here. Will replace it with something more suitable and far less electronically intricate. Thanks anyway for all the feedback.

 

[2000StreetRod]

"farm vehicle"

In your situation your vehicle should be classified as a farm vehicle and not have to meet the emission and fuel economy requirements of licensed vehicles on public roads. In that case simplicity is probably best: carburetor instead of fuel injection, mechanical fuel pump instead of electric fuel pump, distributor instead of ignition control module, etc. I had a 1970 Jeep Wagoneer with a Buick 350 cubic inch V8 that I purchased in 1974 with 80K miles on the odometer. I replaced the piston rings and crankshaft bearings and drove it for 24 years with no major issues. Let us know what you end up with and I wish you luck!

 

[Pugetwind]

Already on researching aa more sensible replacement vehicle, an older Jeep beginning to lead the pack due to its easy owner disability, its simplicity and lack of potential electronic landmines, and the very good parts availability. While almost completely inept when it comes to troubleshooting and repairing/replacing/reprogramming electrical complexities in a vehicle, I'm very comfortable doing mechanical repairs, having rebuilt a couple of MG engines and numerous marine diesel engines ranging from small two cylinder engines in my boats to large V-16 tugboat locomotive diesels. None of those have freaking PATS immobilization systems with them. Only wish I'd not been so damned dim as to purchase and bring a vehicle such as this Explorer to such a remote place as ours. Oh, well - nothing that a four figure dollar amount won't set straight. ;-)

 

[Pugetwind]

Owner "fixability", not freaking " disability" as Google has corrected. ;-)

 

[boominXplorer]

I might be too late but if you have a laptop you can program the key yourself. You need the program Forscan(free for private use) and USB to obd2 cable which can be found on ebay for around $35.

I assume you checked all the fuses?

 

[Macgiobuin]

Most 2000 4.0 SOHC Explorers have only 3 oxygen sensors, one on each bank pre cat, and one post cat which reads the 2 banks' combined exhaust. If you put a '97 PCM (4 sensors) into a 3 sensor car, the PCM will be waiting for Bank 2 Sensor 2 to show that its heater is working, and that it is sending a signal, but the car does not have the wiring, and it doesn't have the sensor or the sensor port in the exhaust for a fourth sensor. P0161 will pop up immediately. The car will run just fine, but that darn engine light will be illuminated and will never go into closed loop function.