New Toy

[koda2000]

Yeah, I don't know about getting them through RA, but the Cloyes are looking pretty good to me. I'll have to do some price shopping w/shipping tomorrow.

A quick search found the Cloyes tensionsers available through O'Reilly's for pretty much the same price as RA. They may even be cheaper after you add shipping (and possibly double shipping).

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/s...plorer+Sport+Trac&vi=1414538&mn=Cloyes&mc=CLO

 

[koda2000]

Update RE Quality Auto Parts fiasco:

As I'd previously posted, my credit card company had refunded my $795 and said I did not have to return the POS rear differential QAP had sent me.

I guess the credit card company then went after QAP because they started peppering me with phone calls and emails trying to get me to return the differential. I told them I would, but only if they paid the near $300 shipping costs. At first they said no, then offered to paid $200 saying they'd refund $100 to me (like that would ever happen). I kept saying no and eventually told them I was done speaking to them and for them to stop calling/emailing me.

Last week I got one last email from them telling me that they had refunded my full $795 and that they didn't want the differential back.

Today I'm taking it to the local recycling center with some other junk I have laying around. I should get enough money back to pay for my lunch.

Do yourself a favor and stay far away from Quality Auto Parts.

 

[just1me]

I actually have an entire inner fire timing kit 9-0398SX I never used, I believe it is made by Cloyes, that has the oil restrictor tube, the oil galley plug, the front and rear tensioners with washers, the timing chains, and front and rear guides as well as the balance chain and guide. I was going to use it on my 01 Sport but ended up trading off the Sport for another Suv.

 

[koda2000]

I actually have an entire inner fire timing kit 9-0398SX I never used, I believe it is made by Cloyes, that has the oil restrictor tube, the oil galley plug, the front and rear tensioners with washers, the timing chains, and front and rear guides as well as the balance chain and guide. I was going to use it on my 01 Sport but ended up trading off the Sport for another Suv.

Can you verify of it's made by Cloyes? I'm really only interested in the tensioners, washers, restrictor tube and galley plug. Would you break up the kit?

 

[just1me]

I am pretty sure it is made by Cloyes, because I have looked at 2000StreetRod's posts about the differences between the Ford and Cloyes parts. The timing guides have the circlips on them also as stated in his posts. I was just going to sell the complete kit pretty cheap, I listed it on Craigslist actually not long ago. I am not an elite member here so I can't sell on the forum, but I can give you the Craigslist link.

http://tulsa.craigslist.org/pts/5194311131.html

 

[koda2000]

I am pretty sure it is made by Cloyes, because I have looked at 2000StreetRod's posts about the differences between the Ford and Cloyes parts. The timing guides have the circlips on them also as stated in his posts. I was just going to sell the complete kit pretty cheap, I listed it on Craigslist actually not long ago. I am not an elite member here so I can't sell on the forum, but I can give you the Craigslist link.

http://tulsa.craigslist.org/pts/5194311131.html

I'm in the process of packing and will be out of town the rest of the week. I'll think about it and maybe take you up on it if it's still for sale on CL when I return. -Thanks.

 

[just1me]

No problem, I like the Sport Tracs, but I wish the first gen would have at least got the 5.0 or 4.6 as an option, since the second gen had the 4.6 option.

 

[koda2000]

No problem, I like the Sport Tracs, but I wish the first gen would have at least got the 5.0 or 4.6 as an option, since the second gen had the 4.6 option.

I've thought it over and the only problem I have with your kit is not knowing for sure that the hydraulic tensioners are made by Cloyes (that and ending up with a bunch of parts that I'm not interested in at this time, albeit at a good price) so I think I'll just get new tensioners from O'Reillys. I doubt I'll find the restrictor tube w/out buying a complete kit, but hopefully I can live w/out it.

I agree with your thoughts on engine choices. I'd love an ST with a V8. If I keep this one maybe I'll convert it if/when the SOHC blows up. My problem is I'm getting a bit old for that kind of project. I'd have to stock up on pain killers, LOL.

 

[just1me]

It's cool, I am not really a fan of Ford's 4.0 Sohc engine. 1 guy on here did a 4BT swap in his Sport Trac which was pretty cool.

 

[koda2000]

I can't recall if I posted this, but Quality Auto Parts finally refunded my money and told me I did not need to return the POS diff they sent me. I scrapped it (along with my old washing machine and a bunch of cans) and got $16. Bought me a nice lunch.

BTW, I finally figured out how to post my photos directly into my posts, so no more photobucket links. I went back and replaced all the previous links.

I've put the ST in the downstairs garage for now, while I amass the $300 to finish it.

My eldest daughter is starting a new job as a manager at Amazon soon (with a healthy signing bonus), so she can start paying me back the money she's borrowed from me.

When I'm done with this project I'll publish the list of what I've spent on it. It looks like it will come out to be very close to my original budget of $2500 all in.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Imported parts

Does anyone know if there is anywhere you can get the oil restrictor tube as found in the 00M12 kit? For that matter, is the only place to get the 00M12 kit from Ford? I've tried Google'ing it but I don't see anywhere you can purchase it. I don't even see it offered from Tasca.

Edit: I just found this on eBay. It says it is compatible with an '01 Explorer 4.0L SOHC, but not an ST (same thing right?)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Timi...iter_Display:4.0L&hash=item541eee2a2b&vxp=mtr

That part is listed as from Preferred Components Inc. located in Washington and is an importer of after market parts. I suggest that you call or email Tasca and they will give you the part number for the restrictor. The plug needs to be a quality part or the Torx head opening will strip if you ever try to remove the plug. It's easy to strip the OEM one. I first thoroughly cleaned mine and soaked it with penetrating lubricant. I then tapped the Torx bit into the plug to make sure it was seated. Then I pressed down as hard as I could on the socket drive while loosening the plug to keep the bit from raising. A small impact driver would probably increase the chance of successful plug removal.

 

[koda2000]

That part is listed as from Preferred Components Inc. located in Washington and is an importer of after market parts. I suggest that you call or email Tasca and they will give you the part number for the restrictor. The plug needs to be a quality part or the Torx head opening will strip if you ever try to remove the plug. It's easy to strip the OEM one. I first thoroughly cleaned mine and soaked it with penetrating lubricant. I then tapped the Torx bit into the plug to make sure it was seated. Then I pressed down as hard as I could on the socket drive while loosening the plug to keep the bit from raising. A small impact driver would probably increase the chance of successful plug removal.

I was just using that kit as an example. I'm thinking I'll go with the tensioners from Cloyes, which I can get through my local O'Reilly's. I'll give Tasca a call, as I haven't found anyone offering just the restrictor tube. From what I've read (I think from you) the Cloyes tensioners may have stronger springs than Ford's tensioners.

I planned on using my hand-held impact driver to remove the galley plug. Working on aluminum engines over the years has taught me a thing or two about electrolysis with dissimilar metals.

Thanks.

 

[koda2000]

Update: I've posted this info in a few other threads, but I figured I'd consolidate it here.

I've titled the ST so I have clean title in hand. I know, I should have done this sooner.

I've flushed the power steering fluid and brake fluid.

Now that the weather is starting to turn colder, I have a few new issues I want to address;
1. 10W30 oil is too thick and is taking too long to reach the chain tensioners, so cold starts are noisy. No real surprise there. I could install the recommended 5W30, but I'm going to try Mobile 1 Full Synthetic 0W30.

2. I've noticed the idle on cold start is a little rough until the engine warms up a bit, so I've pulled the intake, cleaned it up and have ordered the 00M12 kit to replace the intake O-rings, front chain tensioner and add the oil return drain reducer. I hope to complete this work this week. BTW, the intake O-rings in the 00M12 kit are incorrect for the Job 2 intake manifold. The O-rings in the kit are for the Job 1 intake.

After the 00M12 install and the switch to 0W30 oil, which will hopefully correct/improve those problems, the only thing left is the driver's seat bottom leather replacement and to finish a few minor detailing issues.

If I'm happy with the way the ST is running, I'm thinking of transferring the plate and insurance from the EB or XLT over to the ST and driving it for the winter, then deciding what to do with it in the spring.

 

[skpyle]

Very good!

Still watching...



Seth K. Pyle

 

[albi1cnobi1]

Sounds like you're getting real close to calling it yours! lol! Congrats on the progress.

 

[OffTrac]

Nice long test drive.

 

[koda2000]

The weather is still crummy this morning and I still don't have use of my garage (trailer full of old furniture and trash headed to the dump occupying the space). I plan to make a dump run this morning and then get the ST pushed back into the garage. So, I hope to at least get stared putting the engine back together today. Tomorrow's weather looks like it will be the best day of this week, so I need to get everything done by then.

Update 3:00 PM:
Made my run to the dump, got home and pushed the ST back into the garage. Then I jacked up the front so I could get under it to drain the radiator, oil and remove the oil filter. Then I filled the new filter with the M1 0W30, installed it and let the truck down again.

After reading horror stories about difficulties encountered in removing the coolant temp sender & sensor from the t-stat housing, I was pleased to see that the Job 2 engine uses the clip-in sender & sensor, so I pulled the clips and they came right out. Then, using a 1 1/16" deep socket and a 1/2 breaker bar, I loosened the front chain tensioner. To my surprise it came loose w/out much effort at all. The last thing (and the scariest part of this job from what I've read) was to remove the oil drain galley plug. I cleaned out the T30 receptacle in the plug and used my T30 torx socket on a long 3/8's extension with my impact driver (aka "the smack-o-matic") and I gave it a few good whacks with the BFH. Doing this didn't loosen it, but then I switched to a shorter extension and a 3/8's ratchet and it broke free pretty easily. I've already installed the new O-rings in the intake manifold, so now it's just a matter of reassembling everything, which is time consuming, but not hard. I'll start doing this tomorrow. I'm hoping the 0W30 along with the 00M12 kit will make an improvement in the cold starting, but if not at least I'll have done what I can for now.

 

[koda2000]

Since I have a $20 reward to use at AutoZone, I've decided to replace my idler and tensioner pulleys while I have the intake tube out of the way. My old pulleys are dry and rattle, so I might as well replace them before the seize up and ruin my day.

I should have the engine back together and running by this afternoon.

 

[skpyle]

Excellent progress!

Seth K. Pyle

 

[koda2000]

Update 4:30:
Turned out I needed to get a new belt tensioner too. I'd bought just a new tensioner pulley for my old tensioner, but while installing the new pulley the old tensioner broke while I was tightening the bolt, so I had to make a second trip to the auto parts store for a new tensioner. Just as well it broke when it did I suppose.

After reinstalling the new belt tensioner and new idler pulley, I installed the oil drain reducer and new front hydraulic tensioner and I torqued them to spec. Then I set about reassembling the top of the engine, which wasn't to bad of a job, but it took several hours. Lastly I put in the 0W30 oil and refilled the radiator.

The engine started right up and was noisy for a few seconds until the oil got into the tensioner, then it quieted down and I let it idle until the coolant temp came up. It was running well and was quiet and smooth. No leaks were apparent, so I took it around the block for a test drive. It ran great, but on the way back I thought I smelled fuel. By the time I got home I had quite a fuel leak at the left fuel rail. I'd taken the line loose to gain access the front-most intake manifold bolt and I guess I put the O-ring in a bind when I reinstalled it. I don't feel like screwing with it anymore today. I'll look at it tomorrow. Other than the fuel leak it seems like the job was successful. Replacing the pulleys seems to have gotten rid of most of the other engine related noises. I'm hoping I don't need to replace the O-ring on the fuel line, but I'll find out tomorrow.