Explorer can't seem to find the problem ...

[ron_toolman]

Hello back to the forum after several yrs. I have a 96 Explorer used just for plowing my yard, problem started at end of last winter plowing so just parked and now trying to get ready for another winter. So last winter I got hung up in a bank of snow after getting out I noticed the evap canister and bracket hanging, so not thinking unplugged and discarded it. The problem is the engine won't stabilize, will start sometimes right away then there's no way you can put it in gear and move, not a bit of power then all of a sudden it will idle perfect, but still no guts .... checked all vac. hoses then remembered the canister and unable to find it I plugged off all hoses and electrical in it's path, seems worse. Removed each plug wire at coil and all are making a difference to the idle, fuel pump pressure is 30 - 40 lbs. regulator is fine, idle control is good, throttle body sensor is good, all of these were checked or replaced. It's like theres a hole in the intake. I don't know if those electrical connections I unplugged send a signal voltage back to the ECM, if so then I'm in real trouble .... would appreciate any help. Thanks for any help.

 

[WoodyEdmiston]

Found several "leaks" that I changed and solved my vac leak issues. The hose to my ABS looked OK from above, but was split/rotted on the bottom side. Was expecting to find something disconnected not worn away. Hose to brake booster was so hard it was leaking at the plug-in. In both cases, a new hose did the trick.
Of course checking all the small plastic lines and plugs - like the one to the heater control.
Oil change folks pulled a small plug thats part of the ECM controls from the big rubber plenum, ran just as you described till I notice the half inch hole and dug the wire and sender from under the wire loom.
The plenum gets hard with age, make sure the valve going to the oil tube on the valve cover is not leaking and that hose is good. . . and the valve is good.
I replaced the o-ring under the MAF once and made the P171 code go away.
There is a way to spray Berryman's or something similar around the bottom of the intake and head/intake gasket area while the car is running. If the motor speeds up you are identifying the leak source - one of the gaskets. Suggest you have a fire extinguisher handy just in case - squirt sparingly.

 

[ron_toolman]

Thanks Woody ... yeah checking all vac. hoses, I'm now putting together a DIY EVAP Smoker, hope this works. I mentioned eliminating the canister at the read for the gas tank, do you know if the ECM will still look for a signal from the electrical plug or is this just to make the solenoid work and if not working send a fault code. I'm kinda leaning now to the fuel pump, have pressure gauge hooked under hood 35-40 lbs. but if I pinch off the return line pressure goes to 50+ and starts to run good. Maybe theres proper pressure but no volume of fuel, just a though. Need repaired snow will be here soon enough. thanks

 

[TestPoint]

Fuel filter?

 

[ron_toolman]

Thanks , lots of fuel. Something new fuel pressure would go to zero right after key is turned off, pinched return line and then pressure would stay. I replaced the regulator and now I can't get it to start but the fuel pressure stays the same with key off ....