blown lower intake manifold gasket?

[YBCold]

ill check the ATF in the morning. when i pulled the dip stick on the engine oil i had a lot of condensation ( i think) coming out of the tube the oil on the dip stick looked a bit foamy like small bubles in the oil.

if it is ATF should i suspect the rad?


EDIT - im thinking about pulling the LIM out again to see if anything did seep into engine, can i re use the gasket? if i clean it up.

 

[Number4]

Which gasket did you use? The one piece graphite looking thing? If so, no and you should not have used that one in the first place. It doesn't line up well and can easily cause leaks.

If you used the metal one with rubber, you can probably get away with reusing it, as it was just put on.

 

[YBCold]

Which gasket did you use? The one piece graphite looking thing? If so, no and you should not have used that one in the first place. It doesn't line up well and can easily cause leaks.

If you used the metal one with rubber, you can probably get away with reusing it, as it was just put on.

yeah the one piece graphite one, its seems like i tried to save a dollar and now will end up spending two it seemed to like up well but maybe somewhere during torqueing it failed or something i will now look at getting the 97 one...

 

[natenkiki2004]

if it is ATF should i suspect the rad?

Yes, the tank cooler on the driver's side.

Definitely use the two-piece metal & rubber/silicone gasket from whatever manufacturer you choose. Plenty of good RTV too, preferably Permatex Black or The Right Stuff. Also keep in mind, RTV can't be used outside on cold nights. RTV stands for room temperature vulcanization. It needs room temps for a day to cure properly.

 

[YBCold]

question on inspecting the radiator, what should i be looking for in the radiator? i see the connections but how would i find a leak to the tranny? or should i check the tranny for coolant to see if the rad is suspect??

 

[natenkiki2004]

question on inspecting the radiator, what should i be looking for in the radiator? i see the connections but how would i find a leak to the tranny? or should i check the tranny for coolant to see if the rad is suspect??

Cross-contaminated fluid. Milkshake on the trans dipstick or milkshake in the radiator. If it's neither then you likely don't have a failure. I've seen that oil sheen looking thing on top of coolant. Not quite sure what to make of it but it's not a significant leak in the system, that's for sure.

 

[YBCold]

so today i went to oreilys and got these 2, i couldnt find the 2 piece gaskets and this one i got was supposed to be the two piece but this was all they could pull out, i was going to buy one on ebay but with the holiday and inept post office station i have in the neighborhood i opted for these

 

[Number4]

The two piece design was an improvement to the 'graphite' gasket, but everyone complains about keeping them in place. Some come with tabs. The gasket you got is better than the two piece. It's molded to fit exactly and won't move around.

Also, how did you clean the mating surfaces? If they aren't polished, they can leak. You should use the White Roloc Bristle Discs to clean the surfaces. Part number 07528.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...per-case?N=7581639 4294945667&rt=rud&MDR=true

 

[YBCold]

The two piece design was an improvement to the 'graphite' gasket, but everyone complains about keeping them in place. Some come with tabs. The gasket you got is better than the two piece. It's molded to fit exactly and won't move around.

Also, how did you clean the mating surfaces? If they aren't polished, they can leak. You should use the White Roloc Bristle Discs to clean the surfaces. Part number 07528.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...per-case?N=7581639 4294945667&rt=rud&MDR=true

i used a razor blade for residue and carburetor cleaner, i was thinking about going to HFT for a red wheel to use on the block and heads, any advice on cleaning the LIM without gouging? i went over lightly with a razor and then a steel brush and carb cleaner taking tare not to gouge the aluminum. also foaming degreaser

 

[Number4]

Ouch, well, don't use a razor or steel/brass brushes as they can gouge or leave groves. Pick up one of the Roloc White discs (07528, most stores should sell them, NAPA should have them individually.) Pick up some blue shop towels (Scott shop towels 75-130 NAPA, Home Depot etc) and some acetone or throttle body cleaner (that's what I used.) Plug all holes with the towels. Then put the disc in a drill and have at it. When done, clean up with the towels and cleaner.

The Roloc disc should clean up any groves. Just don't stay in one spot too long.


Edit:
Interesting video from makuloco2000. Roloc use starts around 6:30 or so.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Uy5p-cUge5s

 

[natenkiki2004]

Be careful with that gasket, there is a front & back. The back is the end with the sealed water jacket ports, the right side as it's sitting in the first image. Should do you good.

Your call if you want to open the RTV. Doesn't look like it's necessary for that gasket but personally, I'd spread it all over the LIM mating surfaces, just a thin layer.

 

[YBCold]

one last thing before i re attempt this on thursday, its gonna be coldish 55 high 39 low how long should i give the RTV to set? i let mine set for a day and this last time and maybe it didnt work out, and it was alot warmer than its fixin to be

 

[natenkiki2004]

If you're doing it outside, don't use RTV. Remember what I said earlier, it's Room Temperature Vulcanization. Heated garage or take a gamble. As for cure time, 24 hours minimum.

 

[YBCold]

right so the ATF looks immaculate so far ( a month ago i had my mechanic put in a new valve body and new filter with ATF) , i got the lower out and been buffing the block and heads with the red wheels i got at HF. went to NAPA and they didnt have the roto brush also buffed the LIM but took care not to gauge the surface (easier said than done)

moreover its hard to tell where the coolant migrated into the engine and oil got in. i noticed the ports diagonal from each other the one nearest to cylinder 3 and cylinder 4 seemed to be the weakest links, the RTV took but the bead seemed a bit thin. im guessing i didnt torque well im thinking in the morning of removing the rocker arms and tensioner pulley to get better clearance for the torque wrench. I followed the sequence and torqued in ftlbs but maybe i was off. My hypothesis for the oil in coolant is when i tried to purge the cooling system i squished the upper rad hose and maybe that punched a hole in the RTV and once the engine heated up it set the RTV. PS sorry for long post...

 

[drakehound]

Now I'm left wondering how the poor kid made out...